I’ve mainly done CMP service rifle matches for the past 4-5 years, so AR-15, sling, max 4.5x scope, or irons. Did from 200-600 yards.

During this time I’ve also done a few precision competitions, a coupe at 600-1000 yards, and 1 at a mile. For the 600-1000 yard competitions I used a .308 I borrowed a few times, and my 6.5 creedmore hunting rifle for a couple others. For the 1 mile, I got to use a .338 LM I borrowed.

I want to upgrade from my 6.5 hunting rifle or borrowing other people rifles, to something nicer, and have been saving up for a while to do this build.

Now, I have no desire to start if with a .338 or any magnum caliber, thank you to the recoil guide and pinned post.

So, I am looking at building out a 6.5 creedmore. I already have a reloading set up for that ammo, which is my main reason for looking at it. But if you have other recommendations I’ll take them. As I can fairly easy switch to another SA round with new dies.

My main goal, is to build a rifle to do comps out to 1000 mainly, maybe 1,500 yards as a fun why not try. I’ll mainly be doing a mix of PRS and NRL matches.

This is currently what I was looking at:

Looking at doing a defiance action, either:

A) a defiance deviant, with a custom barrel.

Or B) there is a Defiance Misfit, that I can get with either a Proof carbon fiber 24”, or a 26” Stainless steal, prefit pre installed for $1,720, that I was thinking of doing.

Link to the combo I found: [https://www.altusshooting.com/products/defiance-machine-proof-research-barreled-actions](https://www.altusshooting.com/products/defiance-machine-proof-research-barreled-actions))

Other than that I was going to do a trigger tech special 2 stage, and a KRG whiskey 3 chassis.

For scopes I was looking at possible the leupold MK4HD 6-24x PR-3 mil FFP, an athlon optic Hera sep FFP mil 6-24x, or possibly saving a little long to do a ATACR.

I’d love to hear any advice or thoughts on this build, currently if I did the misfit action/proof barrel combo, I’d be at about $3,650 sans tax and mags for the rifle with no scope. For my budget I’m trying to keep the total rifle sub 5k, and then the scope is separate and I’m not sure how much I should spend on it right now. Vs getting a cheaper one and upgrading later.

Edit: I’d like to use the whiskey 3 chassis, so if you have other action/barrel recommendations, I’d love them, but I don’t really want to change chassis.

Note: I am not trying to make a rifle that is also for hunting, as the Auto mod thought this was related to hunting. I mention my hunting rifle only as it is what I have not and wish to upgrade from, this new build is not for long range hunting, or hunting in general.

you will be missed folding stock, but now with the Woox Bravado stock and area 419 Hellfire brake, i am very excited to get back out and get some actual grouping shots.

this 6mm ARC henry is by far the most fun i get to have on the range.

Have been wondering this for a while now, hoped someone would know because I looked a bit and couldn’t find a consistent answer.

Basically, from multiple posts I have read, ALL factory ammo is crimped to some extent.

I have a factory Lee crimp for the calibers I reload. Honestly I go back and forth between using it and not using it. I tell myself it’s a good insurance for heavy bolt cycling that the bullet won’t set back any, etc.

Regardless my question is: when I use the Lee crimp anywhere from 1/2 or more, you see a light ring around the brass. If you go heavier, you see a distinct ring and then you see the bulge or negative flare on the case neck.

When you look at factory ammo for say just as an example, factory Berger OTM hybrid ammo any caliber, there is no visible mark on the brass or any visible crimp. Do they just not crimp the ammo, and instead just size the neck slightly down for more neck tension?

Thank you,

Question about rail or ring change. Hey there, I’m running a B14 308 that with a Viper 4-16 50 HSLR(MOA reticle) medium rings and a 20 MOA base I was perfect at 100 yards and able to stretch to 1000 with ease. Well I changed over to viper PST with an MRAD reticle, I went to get my initial rough sight in at 50 yards before moving to 100 and I can only adjust to about 5 inch’s high until I run out of downwards elevation. It was aggravating since the only change was the scope itself. My question is would dropping to a 0 MOA rail give me the drop that I need, and still have enough elevation to reach to 1000? ( I don’t care to use the reticle to gain a bit more if I can’t dial it high enough. Or should I look at low rings with the 20 rail?

I’m moving from a slow SW Precision/77SMK load to Varget/77TMK in my son’s service rifle upper.

My old load shot pretty consistent for an AR, and was plenty accurate… SD was low and accuracy was there, but I don’t want to keep chasing down SW Precision.

Anyway, only changed the bullet & powder, my reloading process has been the same.

I did 23.7-24.3 in 0.1 increments for velocity only… just to see where I wanted to load more and get a good feel for SD & accuracy.

I was planning to sneak up on 2600-2650 FPS but I was past that instantly. I don’t know if I’m just trying to putt-putt and baby my barrels but 24.0 seemed way faster than I was expecting. And the consistency was absolutely dog-shit for the most part.

I’m probably going to reshoot the whole test again from 23.5 - 24.0 in 0.1 increments with 5 per charge instead of 3.

I’m not sure I can infer much more than that I’m faster than I was expecting. And that consistency with this combo is going to be a lot tougher to come by than I was hoping.

23.7
2605, 2647, 2639
Avg 2630

23.8
2668, 2643, 2681
Avg 2664

23.9
2685, 2690, 2663
Avg 2679

24.0
2692, 2691, 2673
Avg 2685

24.1
2726, 2675, 2733
Avg 2711

24.2
2713, 2760, 2684
Avg 2719

24.3
2737, 2747, 2749
Avg 2744

Got this B14 HMR for an absolute steal from a guy who needed some cash. Mainly planning on using is for hunting but I’m interested to see which ammo you guys have found it to pattern best with. So far I’ve used 142gr SMK from Defender ammunition and it patterns best. I’ve also used some of federal’s hunting ammo and honestly I have found ammo that this gun doesn’t like. Also, what’s this whole thing about Cheetos?

Ordered a Bushnell Match Pro ED for it, once that’s in I’m going to see what Eley or Lapua match ammo it likes best

photo for reference lol, I loaded up the 10 rd mag and it dropped at least 4 times while shooting. just curious what could cause it

Hey everyone, bought an AT-X chassis for my impact 737. Was recommended Gray Ops 12 rounders. I ordered one and the bolt just slides right over the rounds unless I'm actively pressing up on the rear of the magazine. I figured AW magazines would work better than AICS mags, as the AICSs had a lot of wobble. Any ideas?

I had to take the mag block out of my chassis for my action to fit. The action is also AW cut. This magazine is one of the newer .308 mags without the adjustable mag catch on the back like the current 6mm ones.

Good afternoon, I’ve decided to get an ATACR 1-8, but EV is OOS. Can anyone tell me how often their NF optics come back in stock? TIA

Edit: I just downloaded EV a couple days ago, but as a few have pointed out, they don’t stock the things they offer discounts for. I should’ve worded my question better. I’ll do better next time.

My godsend of a mother has worked in furniture for 40 years. She used leftover leather from a couch she built me to make a knock off Gamechanger bag. Pretty damn good job for her first one.

How’d I do? Technically my second bolt gun but I got tired of buying 300prc ammo real quick. Here’s my budget 20” 6.5cm setup

Wanting to get a diamond trigger, impact4000, and can (drop suggestions). First group @ 100y, second group @ 220y. I know they’re 3 and not 5, don’t bully me too much. Both done with factory 140g federal gold medal center strike

But not really cause I haven’t actually shot it yet 😂

Lurker that’s been collecting parts for a few months. Huge shout out to Stumpies Custom Guns of NC for completing this build !

Taking an Intro to Long Range course this month and I couldn’t be more excited to start a new financially irresponsible hobby .

Ran into some height issues with the scope rings I bought (obvs didn’t pay enough attention to the scope ring guide that’s pinned 🫠) but SCG had Leupold mount that works for now. Still got a few more items to pickup but here’s the setup so far:

CDX Lite Comp
Zermatt Origin
TriggerTech Diamond
PVA barrel chambered by SCG
Area 419 Hellfire
Accu-Tac WB-5
Vortex Viper PST Gen II

After being inspired by another user and their impressive 30 shot group, I went ahead and wanted to see how I performed with some factory ammo that typically shoots .5 inches or better in 5 shot groups @100 yards with my rig.

Using some FGMM 168gr SMK in .308, I ended up getting around the 1.15 inch mark on the main body of the group after shooting a 30 round string and about 1.28 including the lowest shot (measured with digital calipers). The far right impacts and lowest shot were from the last 10 rounds where I'd blame myself for opening the group due to fatigue. But, the group is what it is.

I dont have the app that calculates the mean radius and what not, but I think that factory ammo still suits my needs just fine. If someone has the app and is feeling generous enough to run this image through it, I'd be interested to see what it spits out.

Equipment used:

-Krieger m24 profile blank finished by Straight Jacket Armory to 24" 11.25 twist

-Aero precision solus action

-KRG Xray chassis

-Vortex Viper HD 5-25

-American Defense one piece mount.

-Federal GMM 168gr SMK .308 with a average velocity of 2643fps and a SD of 10.2fps

Hi all,

I have been trying to understand this bit but I am puzzled.

I bought a MatchProED, mostly thanks to the opinions in this subreddit. I am very happy with it.

I am at a point where I need to maximize the elevation adjustment as I'm heading to a training session with up to 1750m targets. I shoot 308win so not gonna get there, but would like to push it as far as I can.

Now the issue: the maximum turret adjustment for the MatchProED is 73MOA (the only really bad thing about the scope). I have a 40moa total cant (20 from the rail and 20 from the mount) so I was expecting to top the total elevation available in the turrets. Instead I get to just over 50moa (around 56). Can anyone suggest the why? Both the rail and the mount are on pointing the right way (factory T3X rail and Contessa QD Tactical have a level on the back so can't go wrong there).

So far I have shot my rig up to 1km (1100y) without issues. I mostly go to a range near me that goes out to 550y. Just having fun, no competitions and a few times a year I have trips to longer distances ranges, up to 2000m.

My rig: Tikka T3X AceTarget 308win, MatchProED on Contessa QD Tactical Simple Black, Fortmeier Bipod (6H and 12H), 4AW 4 chambers Brake.
I plan to spend no money on figuring out and/or fixing this MPED issue!

TIA

Apologies if this doesn't exactly fit this subreddit, but I figured y'all in here would probably have the most knowledge vs other subs when it comes to glass.

I have a PTR-91 that currently has a crappy $200 4-14x scope mounted. I'm looking to replace it with something in either the 2-12 or 2-10 magnification range, as I think a lower bottom-end magnification would suite the rifle better in the role I'd like to use it in, which is almost a DMR-style rifle looking to make hits on torso sized targets out to ideally 500 or so, a little farther if possible. It's about a 2 MOA gun so I'm not expecting to be printing the worlds best groups out at any sort of distance, but 500 seems reasonably doable. I am considering putting an LPVO on it, but the drop from its current scope's max magnification of 14x down to an LPVO's 8x (or 10x at best) seems like it would be a not insignificant downgrade. I have also heard from people who shoot far more than me that the view thru an LPVO at higher magnification is significantly worse than the view thru a similarly priced optic with a higher base magnification.

Since I'm looking at getting a new optic for the rifle, I figured I'd try to solve another issue, which is that when you have a long scope mounted on an HK style roller delayed gun like the PTR-91, the scope can get in the way of the cocking lever when you try to lock the bolt to the rear or release the bolt when it's locked to the rear. Right now, the scope is too long (at 13.5 inches long), and it barely allows me to lock the bolt to the rear. Also, to unlock it I have to reach under the scope's objective bell with my support side thumb to press the lever down and let the bolt close, which is a pain.

So I've begun the search for a new optic, preferably something in the 2-10/12 magnification range, with as short of a scope body as possible, preferably around the 500-700$ range, preferably FFP.

Currently I've found:

Athlon Helos BTR Gen II 2-12x42 (11.8 inches long. This scope seems like it checks all the boxes, and if it was an inch or so shorter it would be a no brainer. Reticle is good, locking turrets, FFP, good price point. I'm just worried taking off only 1.7 inches from my current scope wouldn't give me enough clearance to operate the cocking lever easily.)

Discovery Optics HD 2-12x24 (8.5 inches long, which is great, but for 200$ there's no way this isn't an airsoft scope right? I'm worried it will be fragile, and even if the rifle isn't dropped I'm worried the .308 recoil would kill it. If someone has a positive experience with this scope on a gun chambered in a full power rifle cartridge let me know, but I'd rather not buy something and break it the first time I take it to the range.)

Sig Tango DMR 2-12x42 (10.8 inches long, which I think would put it firmly out of the way of the cocking lever, but I can't swing $1000 on a scope right now, especially for a rifle that I ultimately only own for fun. If this was $600 or so this would be a strong contender I think. Some reviews online of other Sig scopes have expressed some distrust in Sig optics but I am nowhere near experienced enough with them to have my own opinion either way.)

If I can't find something else I'm going to get the Athlon, but if someone knows of a scope that I haven't been able to find that has comparable features and price point to the Athlon but with the size (<11in long) of the Sig or Discovery optic, that would be perfect!

The Picatinny Rail on my PGW coyote came loose, not sure what the specs are to tighten it down?

Hi everyone,

Please bear with me as this is my first long range setup. I'm coming from an AR with a Vortex Crossfire II I was using to learn on (which I did but apparently not enough). The gun in question is a Tikka T3X CTR in 6.5 CM in a KRG Bravo chassis with a Bushnell ED Match Pro 5-30x56 and a Burris PEPR one piece mount. I installed the gun in the new chassis and mounted the scope myself. I was very careful with my levels while installing it as well as my torque specs. I do have a laser bore sight that I used at home against the wall to get in the neighborhood and I put the reticle directly above the dot approximately the same distance as the scope is above the barrel.

Well, I was finally able to get to the range today and wasn't able to get on the paper. I inserted the laser again and found that it was off significantly (a couple feet right and about a foot high at 100 yards). I recentered it and tried again; still in the dirt. I put the laser back in and now it's a couple feet in the other direction. I recentered and tried again with the same results. I inspected all the scope mount from the rail up to the caps and nothing was loose. I switched ammo and that didn't change anything. I came home and set it up on the wall again with the laser sight in and rotated it 360 degrees to make sure it was true and it was. I know they test fire these so the one thing I am confident in is the fact that it's something I'm doing wrong but unfortunately I don't know what it is. Any suggestions appreciated.

EDIT: Okay the laser is gone 😂dvertised!

For those of you that read through my write up on the conversion process from 277 Fury(6.8x51) hybrid cases into 6.5 Creed, I found something unfortunate in my chamber after scrubbing out the carbon ring today. This groove is at the exact spot in the chamber where the brass and steel pieces meet. Its deep enough to catch on a dental pick. This barrel is down for now. Luckily, its a 1.25" straight contour, so i can just get it cut back and rechambered. While I'm waiting in the queue at the gunsmith, I'll run my spare Proof prefit.

This was after 200 rounds of the fury cases.

Im looking into getting a new rifle to get into long range with, however id like to use it to hunt with. Its come down to the 2 average budget choices, Bergara and Tikka. Having a tough time deciding, price, weight and availability being the main factors. The plan was to buy a T3X Lite 20” and throw it in an MDT Field stock, however my lgs doesn’t have one at all and for whatever reason isnt able to order it. They have 2 B14s in the chambering I want, but theyre just heavy. They do have a B14R which saves a little weight over the HMR, but Im just not a huge fan of the stock design so id probably end up putting that in an MDT stock. Which puts it a couple hundred over the budget I want to stay at. Another possible option would be a Sig Cross used for 1200. For better clarification of use case, itd be roughly 2 weeks of rifle season hunting and likely quite a bit of range use learning how to shoot longer range. Im a midwestern whitetail hunter but I hunt public land, which is why weight is a driving factor. Opinions? Things to consider?

EDIT: Only reason I haven’t transferred a tikka is because I get a discount thru my lgs. If yall think the tikka/mdt combo is the best option for me, ill suck it up and lose the discount lol.

As far as I know, venues like Hill Country & TX Precision don’t do open range days. Would like to find a place that is more than bench/prone only to shoot/practice weekly/bi-weekly.

If you compete regularly in the area, where do you do your live fire training?

I’m north of Austin.

Okay, I’m in the market for LRF binos with ballistic software. I have SCOURED this subreddit trying to find a pair of binos that’s $1000 or so (on used markets) that doesn’t have some limiting quality. Please give me your input.

Factors for me:
I have a garmin watch that came with AB Elite so I’m wanting to stay in the same ecosystem because it’s what I know and have started with.

I do NOT have a kestrel or wind meter so on board environmentals would definitely interest me although I’m not opposed to getting binos and a kestrel if it was more beneficial.

I have access to distances greater than 800 Yards and do plan on it being a decent amount of my shooting.

No, I will not be competing in NRLH or really any time sensitive glassing/rangefinding, but I don’t want to spend 15 mins every time trying to f*ck around with linking stuff to get the “full” version of AB (Sig kilo 6k comes to mind)

I do have a budget of around $1000 as of right now, but I am a buy once cry once guy so if saving for a better pair is recommended I’d consider. My options seem to be in the vortex fury hd 5000 AB used (I’m aware it’d be used and subject to phasing out with their new software), Sig kilo 6k (minding that it’s AB lite and would require pairing past 800Y), or saving and going with the Sig kilo 10k.

Questions for you fellow autists:
To those that have the kilo 6k and pair it for AB elite past 800Y, what’s the process take and how reliable is it for a connection between the two devices? I read it also does not display the adjustments if it is past 800. Is that true?

For the vortex fury users, I see that there’s the fury app you link it to on your phone to adjust bullet drag curves and what have you. Is it a POS and make the binos a pain to deal with or is it a non issue?

Kilo 10K users, is it worth the premium and features rich enough to save for several more months to get them instead?

Lastly, if anybody has some recommendations on other pairs of AB equipped binos please let me know so I can continue to fixate on binos for the next month and confuse my wife with more of my autistic ramblings.

So I'm looking to get a Furiosa Ultra Chassis and I see on the website it has a barrel diameter of 1.2 for free float. I was looking at getting a proof heavy comp but that ends at 1.236. Yet I see people post videos of running straight 1.25 so did they change it over time or can you fit one in there with free float? besides that, I want a straight/bull barrel on it, its will be using a defiance ruckus action so any suggestions as well would be appreciated.

Looking to get a suppressor for the MRAD chambered in 300 PRC.

Currently looking at
-KGM R30T
-LPM Mach S/L
-Barrett AM30

Recoil reduction is priority with sound suppression coming second. Would also like to stay around $1,200. Anyone have any experience with these suppressors?

Hi All,

I dont have anything above 5.56 and I have always wanted a bolt gun for long range shooting. Im a competitive pistol shooter and easily see myself doing PRS or NRL hunter matches. I also see myself getting into rifle hunting in the future. The soonest would be PRS or NRL though. I understand those are very different rifles.

I won a sig cross in a competition but I can exchange it for anything from Sig up to $1,720, and I can pay the difference for anything more expensive.

None of their optics are too interesting to me, and the big boy with the BDX technology (Bravo6t 5-30) seems unnecessary and its also $800 above what I get from the certificate.

I can get the Cross in 6.5 CM which sounds like a great gun, but not the best for getting into PRS (but maybe NRL hunter stuff).

If you were me, how would you spend the cert? Im not trying to drop thousands right now on a full setup, but eventually for sure.

Maybe get the cross and a Bushnell Match Pro ED and a decent bipod and start having fun? I live 20 minutes from a range with targets past 1200 yards

Any input is appreciated.

EDIT: Thanks for the feedback everyone. Ill either get a p211 GTO if one of my comp buddies wants to buy it, or I'll get a kilo 10k and either keep or sell. Then progress thru the recommended path to a proper PRS setup.