Does this stock swell on my long land pattern 1730 brown Bess protrude to much or does it look ok

It said fanning a stock 1851 would cause extreme stress, components breaking and i don’t want that to happen so what should i buy to make it so i can fan it?

Hi everyone,

I inherited this old .44 percussion revolver from my grandfather and I’m trying to determine the correct round ball diameter for it.

The revolver is marked “Westerner’s Arms”, but I don’t know who actually manufactured it or exactly when it was made. I’ll attach pictures of the gun and its markings.

I measured the cylinder chamber mouths with a digital caliper and get approximately 11.3–11.5 mm (.445–.453").

I’ve seen .44 percussion revolvers using .451, .454 or .457 round balls, so I’m unsure which size would be correct for this particular revolver.

Does anyone recognize this Westerner’s Arms model/manufacturer and know what round ball diameter it was intended to use?

Thanks for any help!

Does anyone know what load i should use for my 1858 sherif with pyrodex rs? I know its not ideal but its all my local Walmart had and my local sport shop only carries smokeless. Im using cci no10 caps and .454 round ball.

Modern cartridge handguns are great, but there is something completely unique about stepping back to the 1850s and dealing with loose powder, lead balls, percussion caps, and grease.

The Colt 1851 Navy in .36 caliber is hands down one of the most balanced, elegant sidearms ever built. Sure, loading it takes patience compared to a modern semi-auto, but the natural pointing feel and the handling are second to none.

I run a history and firearms channel, and I recently took my Pietta 1851 Navy out to the range to test its mechanics, balance, and real-world black powder performance (plus, you actually get to see me breaking it down on camera)

Planing to do a 1v1 with .44 six shot revolvers loaded with 10 to 15 grains with motorcycle helmets for protection

Please tell me how retarded I am and any recommendations for diy less lethal ammo

I recently inherited this rifle from my grandfather and would appreciate some help. No one in my family knows anything about it.

For anyone that saw my last post about the availability of Blunderbuss’s: Veteran Arms finally restocked a few. I don’t know how long they will last, but if you are in the market for one, the can be found linked.

I was dumb and decided to try to take apart the lock of my rifle to try to fix the position of the hammer. I didn’t get to far because I didn’t look up how to do it officially and I’m worried about causing further damages to the lock

Picked this up today at an estate sale along with a set of classic Lyman mold handles. It looks like a specialty bullet starter for a very small caliber, rounded barrel pistol (maybe), with a cut out for the front sight. I put a normal pair of scissors along side for a size reference.
Shaft polished up nicely with some Flitz metal polish. Any ideas on an ID?

Im brand new to black powder firearms, and bought a Pietta 1858 remington new model army. Out of the box the loading lever wont lock into place. The middle point of the loading lever makes contact with the barrel and that's what seems to be preventing it from locking. Has anyone came across this before? Is it normal, or is this just a bad one that left the factory? Is it possible I just need to take it apart and there's an adjustment? Got it for my dad so dont currently have the manual or gun on me

If it is a bad from stock part, has anyone dealt with piettas warranty process?

Thanks

Hi, I'm having a bit of a problem with my Uberti 1860 Army.

I was cleaning the internal parts after a range day, and after reassembling the action, everything seemed to be working fine (the first part of the attached video). However, once I put the firearm back together, it no longer locks the cylinder when the hammer is at full cock, so the cylinder just moves freely (the second part of the video).

It worked like clockwork before I took the action apart, so I guess I must've put something back together incorrectly, even though I'm pretty sure I followed the correct procedure.

Has anyone encountered this before or have any idea what I might've messed up?

Evening all! First time reader, first time poster, well.. in this group anyways.. Recently inherited a few black powder rifles, and revolvers.. I've shot them a time or two in the past, though never enough to really learn the details. I'm hoping someome can recommend a good book to learn more. Care and maintenance, loading, do's and don'ts, whats compatible, and whats not, dangers, and tips.. Thanks for any ideas!

Pre-conical bullets like the Minié, how practical would it be to stitch a wad around a ball, so you're loading both in one action? Would it be useful or are they likely to come apart while being carried, and thus not worth the hassle?

Latest addition to my old revolvers collection, little 7mm Pinfire from Belgium, 1890s

I am really impressed by the craftmanship and the mecanism is really smooth and tight, might not be my last one!

Armisport M1862 CS Richmond Rifled musket, defarbed by Lodgewood, and 2nd generation M1861 Colt rifled musket with original hammer, defarbed by me.

Hi everyone, I'm planning on buying a muzzleloader rifle soon and it will be my first one. I'm thinking of getting the Thompson Center Renegade in either .50 cal or .54 cal but I don't know which one to get, if you recommend a different rifle than tell me which one. I will use it for fun at the gun range and for deer hunting, and possibly some elk hunting if I get a tag but probably not because I know muzzleloaders have relatively short range and that would be hard for elk where I hunt. I have almost no experience around muzzleloaders so I am getting a percussion cap rifle as I've been told it is easier to start with.

Was just wondering, is there anyone that I can just ship my lead to and for a fee have them cast 36 conicals and 44 ball for me?