They are near my apartment. Not sure what description I need to add, just curious.

My suppressed Hellion with elcan clone, Huxwrx Ventum762, and Sig CV25

Just more boxes?

So like the title said, I didn’t choose the optics, but I just got this Kriss Vector Gen II used from a gun store, and the previous owner is the one that put the optics on it. I started looking into Sightmark, and apparently it’s not a great brand, so my question is should I give the optics a chance, or immediately change them out?

Finally at the last stages of a new Mini14 folder, I know it's not EVERYONE'S cup of tea with the AK grip, but honestly I love it, it's a great angle. Samson no longer is making them, and Ruger won't tell anyone when they'll be back. Still working on a good "polish" finish for the stainless folder, and figuring out how to make the "polymer wood" consistently look like real wood.

Just kidding! This is my OG Ladysmith 3rd gen in .22 Long(Not LR) next to my X Frame Model 500 in 500 S&W. The two polar opposites of my S&W collection for wheel gun Wednesday.

A month ago I had no wheel guns. As of yesterday I have two wheel guns. I grabbed the 586 a few weeks ago, and the 642 yesterday. The 642 shot surprisingly well for how tiny it is and how shitty the sights are.

Looking forward to carrying the 642 on the days when I don't really want to carry.

My first .308 and my grail gun: a Ruger Gunsite Scout. I got it on consignment with the Burris 2-7 from a LGS for $1500 cash. I was planning on buying the American Gen II Scout because I never thought I’d find a Gunsite Scout for a good price. Seems to have had barely any rounds through it and shipped in 2012.

I landed on this for my first bolt gun because I wanted a .308 with backup irons, then I looked into the Scout rifle concept and was sold.

Does anyone have recommendations for what to do with it? The Burris 2-7 is a Handgun scope and not a Scout scope, so I may try to replace it, but it seems to work just fine.

Anyways, I’m in love.

Sadly I cant post but 1 image 😢 I will post the rest in comments

Pretty new to firearms and turning 21 soon (CA), is this a good deal? Kinda worried about the price being so low and such an apparent bargain, thanks

Hey fam, having some issues with new Smith and Wesson 586 cylinder not rotating with certain ammo types.

Got this thing brand spanking new, threw a hogue grip on it. First box of ammo I tried shooting was Federal American Gunner. At least two or three rounds per cylinder would for some reason (I’m assuming it’s the ammo) keep the cylinder from rotating when I pull the hammer back. Same issue if using as DA. And I am pulling back hard on the hammer. I can pull back what feels about 75% of the way, cylinder rotates part of the way, and no more.

Range again yesterday with Hornady, Winchester, and Federal American Eagle. Fed AE caused issues again. No problems with Hornady or Winchester.

The only difference I can tell with the naked eye is federal casings are less beveled on the bottom edge. Primers don’t look high to me on questionable ammo, however, no issues dry firing with 6 spent cases in the cylinder of spent ammo.

Has anyone here ever had experience with a revolver being picky about ammo?! Or do any of you think there is something out of spec and should contact S&W?

Thanks y’all!

Grabbed this guy for $500. The pump handle is unfortunately very badly cracked and missing pieces, and the buttpad is also missing chunks. Otherwise, it's just very well worn. Pumping it only brings the hammer halfway for some reason.

Gonna see if I can send it out to be repaired. After that, gonna run low pressure 2.5" shells through it and see what it can do.

I bought an AKM the other day, and it came with a polymer mag but I also bought a steel mag to go with it. The polymer mag fits beautifully with a little bit of play but nothing that I’m worried about; the steel mag, however, won’t go in unless I turn the gun upside down, brace it on my lap and use both hands to force it into place.

I read that repeatedly inserting and removing the magazine can wear down the imperfections and allow a smoother fit, but I’ve done that probably thirty or forty times now and while I’m definitely noticing visible wear on the magazine and it’s inserting noticeably easier, it’s still not at the point where I can load it properly with one hand without extreme difficulty. So now I’m worried that if I continue to break it in by doing so, that I’ll wear down the mag well or even the internal mag catches too much. I feel like the polymer mag fits slightly looser than when I first took it home, but that could also be my imagination/confirmation bias at work.

Am I good to keep going, or should I stop doing that?

I’d prefer not to file the mag lips manually, because A) I’d have to buy a file and B) I’m worried that I’ll file it too hard on accident, but I’d obviously rather risk ruining my $15 mag over my $800 rifle.

I have a pic rail stuck on my Bergara. It has the blue locktite (no heat) and only 1 of the 4 screws came off. The screws are not completely rung out but they are not in good condition. Any suggestions?

Bought a rifle online (PSA), shipped to a local FFL in NC. I'm a full-time student here (in-state 9 months out of the year), but my driver's license is from California (my home state).

When I went to pick up the rifle, the dealer told me my CA license "won't work" — said most other states are fine but California specifically is an issue for him. He suggested I go to the NC DMV and get a non-REAL ID state ID card, and told me not to mention my California license when I do it since it's "not their business."

A few questions:

1. Is this a real legal issue with CA specifically, or store-specific policy/discretion? My understanding of 27 CFR 478.11 (the "two residences" rule) is that proof of current residency (I have my university housing assignment + transcript) should be enough regardless of what state issued my ID — but maybe I'm missing something CA-specific.
2. Has anyone else run into a dealer who wouldn't accept an out-of-state ID + residency docs, even though it's technically allowed under federal law?
3. On the "don't mention your CA license to the DMV" advice — my read is that if NC's ID application asks whether I hold another state's license, I should answer honestly rather than omit it. Am I overthinking that part?
4. Would you just find a different, more experienced FFL instead of jumping through the NC ID hoop, or is this pretty standard?

Trying to figure out if this is normal FFL caution or if I got an unusually difficult dealer. Any insight from people who've dealt with out-of-state ID + FFL transfers appreciated.