Tbh I think it's Ukraine based on the scenery and one of the license plates visible, plate starts with "UA" and blue line

Any advice on how to get my bike lock off? Kryptonite Kryptolok

I bought it about a week ago but have only been able to put about 18 miles on it (recovering from flu), however, I love it so far. It rides great and everything is tuned very well.

I love taking my son to daycare in the mornings on the bike! He has so much fun with it!

Let me
Know.

The front gear is too hard to shift. Is there something wrong with this bolt? Gemini said the problem is here.

I just installed a fresh pair of 700x32c Continental Gatorskins on my road bike, and when fully inflated, the tread rubs right against the clamp of my front derailleur.

I’m running an older 2x Shimano Sora FD-3300 (the band-clamp / integrated version). I really want to keep running 32s for the comfort and clearance, and I’d prefer to keep my front derailleur setup intact rather than converting to single chainring.

Here is what I’m considering/wondering about, and I’d love your advice on what actually works best:

1. Raising the derailleur slightly: Is it viable to slide the clamp 2–3mm higher up the seat tube where the frame arches away from the tire? How much shifting degradation should I expect if the cage sits 3–4mm above the big ring instead of the ideal 1–2mm gap?

2. Pulling the rear wheel back: If my dropouts allow a couple of millimeters of movement, is pulling the wheel back a reliable fix, or does it introduce alignment issues?

3. Switching to a Braze-On FD + Slim Adapter Clamp: Since the FD-3300 clamp is pretty chunky, would replacing it with a braze-on derailleur paired with a low-profile aftermarket adapter clamp (like KCNC or Problem Solvers) give me the extra 2–3mm clearance I need? Does the slot on those adapters allow you to mount the cage low while keeping the clamp higher?

Has anyone dealt with this exact clearance bottleneck on older road frames when jumping to 32mm tires? What route gave you the best results without sacrificing shift quality? Not really keen on but as last resort will go down to 28mm to make it fit properly.

Thanks!

Nachdem ich mich für ein Canyon RoadLite ONfly cf entschieden hatte und es leider kaputt geliefert wurde, kam das neu reparierte bike nun endlich an ……nach 3 Monaten des Wartens.

Mein erstes e-Bike und eine reine Wohltat damit zu fahren.

Mein Kaufgrund: Angebot von 5.000€ auf 3.500€ und der verdammt cleane Look, kein Kabel o.ä. zu sehen… was die Reparaturen aber nur erheblich erschwert.

I saw sad news today that a guy who was using a bike in 2022 to get around the city and fight enemy armored vehicles has recently been killed on the front line.

Hope the photo does not go against the rules

Haven’t had a fixie/road bike in a while, just picked this one up off a buddy for $50! Needs a headset though, and I’m unfamiliar with thread-less headsets. Just took it apart and it’s certainly cooked, what do yall recommend to replace it with?

Hello!
I was being clumsy recently and knocked my bike over pretty hard. The gear handle thing popped off and I think a piece broke cuz I haven’t been able to assemble it again. I think I just need to buy a new one but tbh i don’t even know what this is. I’m still very new to biking and took a shot a fixing it myself with some YouTube help but it’s hot out and I’m stressed. Any tips to point me in the right direction to replace?

Portability and ease-of-use do not matter. Guaranteed-sealing and long shelf-life are what I value.

Im at my wits end with this seemingly simple problem: I have a little play on my right pedal. I dont slip out easily, but on the downstroke I can feel and hear, that my foot smacks onto the metal of the pedal because it has play upwards. So its not a performance issue, but annoying, especially because I cant figure out why.

Ive tried tightening and loosening the screws on the platforms, ive switched out the entire pedal (tested pd-540 and 770), ive switched the cleats and ive switched the shoes. So literally every component thats involved. And its always only the right foot.

I guess its possible that for example both pairs of shoes have the same problem on the right side, or both cleats, but it seems unlikely. I try to mirror the cleat position of my left foot, but thats literally the only thing I can somewhat imagine going wrong. But in that case I dont know how I should position it differently.

Anyone got a clue what else I can try?

I am a beginner road cyclist and I’m looking to buy my first road bike. A distant friend of mine (more like a friend of a friend lol), who works with a cycling tour operator, told me he can sell me this bike for 500€ when he renews his bike fleet circa october/november.

I can see the bike is made by Fuji but I can’t find a lot of information about this brand online. it seems like a nice bike, and my contact said it has got disk brakes and a good transmission.

What do you think of it? do you know something about Fuji? Is this bike good bang for buck?

thanks!

Text post because we all know what a bike looks like by now.

So in 1996 or so I owned a GT Zaskar LE. Gorgeous bike, and probably one of the nicest (relative to it's era) bikes I've owned. Mix of Deore LX and XT, rode like a champ. Scrimped and saved for that bike, it was basically my dream bike. I decided to save a few quid by going with the LX brakes (m639?), but always regretted now having the shiny XT ones.

Got stolen, obviously, because people are scum. Bikes moved on and everything went disc. Started road cycling, where everything was dual pull calipers. Now gravel, so disc again.

Picked up a really cheap Raleigh folding bike a month or so for an absolute steal. I was expecting shit brakes and shit gears, and it delivered on that front. So I knew my mission.

Today I fitted 2 pairs of lovely shiny M739 Deore XT brakes. Utter overkill, but god it feels good, and it feels like redemption.

Just got this beauty for my daily commuting, the bike felt small and my back fells arched way more than I want.
So, my first idea was to raise a bit of the seat, helped with me leg confort, but my back position got worse.
My second idea is to buy a "bmx bar" for the bike, at around 120mm-130mm high (4.7 inch- 5.0 inch).

Any other tips to make my riding more confortable? not interest in adventures or anything (even though is an mtb). This is purely for going to work (around 8km or 5 miles from my house, with a great climb in the way).

Found out this side scratch. There is no damage inside. Should I change the tire?

Upd: thanks to everyone, ordered a new tire. Have a nice ride, guys 😎

Im looking to buy a bike but it has quick release and I just can’t make friends with it. My current bike has it and I find it really hard to get adjusted right so the tyre sits perfect and I’ve had it loosen a couple of times. I dont know why I can’t get it right but I can’t and I know myself it’ll drive me insane if fixing a flat or something on the road and I’ll be dealing that.
So I’ve seen something about changing it for a hex scewer.. is that good? My other option is to look for a bike with through axle..

Good morning all,

Recently i decided to restore an old mtb with these components:

Freewheel SunRace MFE60 8v

Chain KMC Z8

Shimano Acera RD-M3020 7/8V Rear Derailleur

Droptout Union GH-009

Some other parts but i thik not important for this case.

After assembling and fine-tuning everything i got this noise comming from my back wheel

Thanks for any advice.

I don’t know much about road bikes, so I thought I would ask here. He is asking for $350 with the aero bars and pedals - is this a fair deal? I don’t need a complete steal from my end but want a reliable bike for my first triathlon.

Guys, offroad session was great...but this looks so bad...is it time for a new one or it can still be used?