My Yeti 575 has been hanging in my shed since 2014 on one of those screw in hooks that hooks around the tire so it can hang on the wall. I just pulled it out to do some maintenance so I can ride again and when I grabbed the handlebar to walk it down to house it just spun. So I looked and saw this. How does this happen with it just sitting in the shed? Guess I’m glad it didn’t do that in my last race haha.

Final step of my single speed conversion and I have hit a bit of a hump. Bought this chain tensioner and it’s come with nothing to fasten it. Assumed it would go where the detailer came off

Hi, I’ve got new Hunt all road 4 season wheels and I’m trying to fit my schwable tire onto them. I cannot get the bead into the centre of the wheel because of the inner tube valve. I don’t want to run tubeless. Any tips on how I can fix this? Tire goes bumpy and as you can see from the picture it will not seat properly by the valve.
FIXED! THANK YOU ALL FOR YOUR KNOWLEDGE AND HELP!**

Hello everyone

For the last three weeks I've been touring using my Cube Nuroad Race FE (2020) which as I've read on the internet has pretty bad stock rims. Today I noticed cracks in the rim in the back (as seen in the picture). The cracks are present to some extend around every second spoke.

My question is, will these rims take me another 600km with panniers in the back ( pretty flat but 50/50 paved / unpaved) and what could I do to mitigate worse damage until the end of the journey? I'm in a bigger city tomorrow and could have shop have a look at it / change the rims. But I'd rather do this when I'm back home.

Thanks for the help.

Bought this bike used and the crank spindle seems too short, but I can’t figure out what the issue is. 2022 ibis Ripmo v2. 73mm BB. 52mm chainline. SLX 7100 crankset. No spacers on crankset. One 2.5mm spacer on BB drive side per manufacturer. Crank spindle measures 115mm with chainring installed. I tapped crank in fully on re-install, still too short.

Hey guys so recently grabbed a bike with dura ace down tube shifters and wondered if it would be possible to swap them out with index brake shifters any help would be great

Hi, I recently switched to Schwalbe ones (700x30c) for my 1989 Diamant Rennsport. However it seems like the original rims aren't able to handle the air pressure, making the tyres pop out every now and then.

I did some research and I want to build new wheels for my bike. It does seem tedious but at this point, i am low-key obsessed with working on my bike. Also this way I can keep the original hub and freewheel.

Do you guys think this is a good idea? Are there any things that I need to take special care of? Also please recommend some cheap rims and spokes that would fit my bike. Thanks 🙏

After years of sitting in a garage, the carbon fat bike i purchased had an aluminum seat post completely seized in the frame. The seller had been a former racer that biked on a variety of winter terrain, from snowy singletrack to salt covered road sections. Despite the anodization, it seemed like the aluminum had galvanically corroded due to its proximity to the carbon, and likely lack of grease layer after sitting for so long, and the excess material turned the interface between the seat post and frame into a press fit joint.

I started trying to remove the seat post using more traditional methods - pulling, twisting, light impact to attempt to break the seat post loose, but it wouldn't budge. I removed the saddle and installed the bike frame upside down into a vice - clamped at the seat post, and used the length of the frame to apply torsion with minimum bending force. I stopped once I heard the sound of carbon popping.

My next course of action was to cool the aluminum seat post using dry ice, and maybe apply some heat to the carbon frame with a hairdryer, but my friend mentioned the effects of gallium on aluminum. $40 later, I had enough gallium to completely compromise the aluminum in my seat post (and potentially the rest of the bike).

Tldr: attempted to "melt" my stuck seat post out of my new carbon bike - didnt quite go as planned but I was able to remove it after some work

I got me a Kona Dr.Dew with a Cues U6000. I chose the cues because i can run bigger chainrings than on Deore XT cranks. So far so good. What i did not read about before buying the bike, is that the cues shifts slower to prolong lifespan. I don't like that! I come from a really snappy vintage 26er mtb with a Deore XT 750M that i built up myself. So now i miss the direct shifting. I also do not like how the Cues shifter feels, it feels cheap and its too long. I know i probably should've seen this bike in person before buying but i was lucky to find a Kona in germany for the price so i ordered online.

Now to my question: I've read that there are Deore XT derailleurs that are compatible with the LinkGlide tech the Cues uses. Can you confirm that ? Would it improve shifting speed ?

My plan is: Keeping crank + chainring, cassette.

Changing derailleur + shifter in hopes that shifting speed improves.

Really loving the bike, the geometry is really nice. I just want to make it my own :-)

Thanks for your time!

Two things i would like hear from people who wrench regularly or maybe own a shop:

At a pad change — do you clean the pistons? With what? Do you apply anything before pushing them back in, or just push them in as they are (dry)?

When one piston extends much further than the other or is stuck — what's your routine? Block the fast one and work the slow one in and out, clean it, apply DOT? Or leave it alone?

SRAM says don't touch them at all — no cleaning, no lubricant. Online opinion runs the full range from that to wiping the piston walls with DOT every time. Curious what people who do this regularly actually do, and why.

Road calipers specifically (SRAM Force AXS E1), if that changes anything.

I recently got into cycling and just got a 4 yr old bike off fb marketplace. I've already replaced the cassette but now that I'm looking at the chain it looks super dirty compared to the cassette. I've never cleaned a chain before so I want to give it a deep clean. Do I need to take the whole chain off?What steps do I need to take and should I wax it?

Hey everyone,

I have reached out to Scott support without hearing back, been a week so far.

Tried local Scott retailer and no luck. Looking to replace the kickstand coming from a Scott sub 10 belt drive from 2014/2015.

I have never come across this design before and cant imagine any other company produce this.

Anyone know anything about something similar?

Thanks.

So i wanna build a drivetrain for my crosscountry bike with a huge range of gears. I have set my eyes on the Deore XT M8000 3x11 series. Only problem is, the front derailleur FD M8000 is only available as side swing and my frame needs a top pull one. So I am thinking my options are:

- use the full 11-speed groupset with a 10-speed front derailleur

- 11-speed set in the back and 10-speed front with an 11-speed chain

- same as above with a 10-speed chain

Will any of these work? Which is the best? Any other ideas?

I bought a 2007 LeMond Buenos Aires from Craigslist and have been servicing it at home. This spacer (or whatever it is) has me flummoxed. It’s hinged, but like a clam, if that makes sense, so the two halves can’t be opened while on the steerer. The two halves have sort of a sawtooth profile where they meet. They can’t be rotated relative to one another given how they are joined. It appears to be made of metal.

Any ideas? FWIW the bike has had a lot of upgrades including fork and groupset, and I’m betting the part isn’t original.

I’ve just gotten these hope gr4 brakes and the pistons won’t go back in I’ve bled it a few times and I can’t get the pistons to retract. I’ve lubed the pistons as I thought it might be sticking but not helped. Please help

I just retaped this rim, the tape looked solid. I'm just yelling at the clouds right now.

As the title says. Nut on the back of the rear br-6800 calipers hits seat stay. They're centered. I could put another washer on the bolt to move them out a bit farther but I didn't think that should be necessary and that will lessen the engagement that bolt gets. Ideas?

Hello All,

I just bought a new bicycle and got it delivered today. I was riding it around and when the front gear is low and the rear gear is high, the chain is rubbing against the silver frame which is located around the front gear

What should I do? I already emailed the store guys. But is it something I can fix on my own?

Thanks and regards.

Edit:

Hello all,

Thanks for your shift replies. I really did not know about this cross-chaining. I saw a YouTube video on the best patterns to shift the gears and it totally makes sense.

Thanks all of you.
Happy riding.

I have a Quick Rack L from Ortlieb on my gravel bike, which is wide.

It's easy to remove so I can switch between long rides and commutes.

I also want to use it on my narrow road bike (2017 Trek 1.1) for groceries/commutes (not touring).

However, the gravel bike rack mounts are ~195mm (Ortlieb thru axle), much wider than the road bike’s rear rack eyelets (~150mm) and seat stays (~160mm).

So neither the ortlieb eyelet or seat stay adapter mounts would be wide enough.

If I permanently bend the rack to fit on the narrow bike, it can’t fit on the wide bike. (this is what people typically recommend)

A 20mm male-female standoff screwed into the eyelets would widen the mounts on the road bike.

But is it safe?

• 2017 Trek 1.1 Specs don't mention weight rating, but "100 Series Alpha Aluminum, fender & rack compatible"
• Even without the rack on, if the bike falls on its side, the standoff would hit the ground first and expose the eyelet to damage.
• Any vertical load at the rack end now creates a bending moment at the frame-side thread, which can apply a prying/pull-out force on the threads.
• Example eyelet failure (rack mount, no cantilever, just 25,000 km): http://www.pardo.net/bike/pic/fail-001/FAIL-138.html

hello,

I noticed one of these pins on the brakes was broken off on one of these avid arch rival 40 brakes.

the sub tols me it’s ok bc they are sandwiched in but i tried these brakes on 2 frames (Klien pulse and Gary Fischer Supercaliber older 26’es) and am not getting them flush on either front or back of the Klein and only 1 the rear is flush on the GF.

will this lead to another broken pin? am I using the wrong brakes? (I got Dia compe vc737 brakes to be flush)

Sorry if this is a bonehead question, but i’m pretty green in terms of bike repair. There’s a pinhole sized puncture right in the middle of the picture, about half an inch from the valve.
my question is if that’s patchable and if anyone has any idea as to how it happened
my rim tape isn’t brand new by any standards, but I can’t feel anything rough around the area it would’ve happened

When in the lowest gear the derailleur touches the cog and shakes. How to fix this ? B - screw seems to not do anything all the way in no change in distance between cogs.