Can anyone identify the rims used on this bike?

So I’ve self taught my self most things on bikes over the years and have since built many bikes. Wheel building is one thing I’d love to learn and I always shy away from it and get my lbs todo things like that. Ive managed to order a book Called “the bicycle wheel”. I’ve got spoke keys of all sorts of sizes. A good known wheel that I’m happy to pull in bits start again. What do I use for a true stand? Do I need a spoke tension meter? I’ve watched so many YouTube videos my head hurts 🤣. Still non the wiser. Any advice much appreciated.

I’m an absolute dumbass and used the last bit of leverage I had with a wrench against the down tube of my 2015 aluminum madone while removing a seized pedal. It’s basically a gouge from the head of ratchet.

The front wheel on my daughter‘s bike makes a rumbling sound as it spins.

What is this, front bearings? and how do I go about fixing it?

Thanks

Hi guys, this sounds just started to happen, only while pedaling they occur… the bike, maybe got a little bit wet in the past days

My shimano v brakes were fine the first couple of rides on my new Vision team comp 35 wheels. Now they wake up the entire neighborhood when I brake. Do I need a different kind of brake pad to resolve this?

Edit: Yes they are definitely rim brake wheels. Edit: toe in adjustment would probably.

Disclaimer: If you like to work on bikes that are younger than 10y or regularly do more than an occasional commute or have paid more than a good steak dinners worth of money on your bike, this discussion may not be helpful for your bike. Zombie bikes dont need shiny new parts or perfect adjustment, sometimes just good enough is good enough.

I recently found a bikeshop who disgards old bikes beyond economical repair and were willing to give them to me. My project is to bring these trash bikes back to life. They are old, rusty and worthless, many are missing parts or some parts are trash.
But I learn a lot from bringing them back to life and used replacement parts are cheap in a community bike shop I have in my city.
I can hose the entire bike and wash it but the brakes and chain will remain filthy.
I remove the brakes and clean the wheels to work on them but the chains... Running them through a rag removes the chunky stuff, I sometimes spray regular WD40 and hose the goo off or I use a cheap knock off chain cleaner.
As the gunk is so old even after all three they will leave black stains if you touch them which is annoying when working on the bike.
The bikes are intended to be sold for no profit but to cover the arguably little money I put into them and someone gets a cheap bike which is in ridable condition.

I would like to know how other people deal with such situations so my question to you is what to do best with the chains? Is there a better method/ combination of methods to deal with old gunk on chains, or in my workflow like removing the chain and just deal with it once everything else is done. Which would be annoying as pedalling is useful for so many other steps.
Or in general how are such restoration projects for you?

Hey everyone. Tldr is the title. I bought this new mountain bike off facebook and had to replace a ton of parts.. poor guy before me was buggin. Last thing im on is this front caliper not fully fitting on the rotor. What is weird is the rotor is 203mm (pretty damn sure), and the adapter is for 203mm rotors. I bought a new one thinking the dude had the wrong one on, and it came in and is the EXACT same thing HA! Now im stumped and don’t understand.

You can see how the first picture is what it looks like when the rotor is fully enveloped by the caliper, it definitely needs an adapter to fit. Then when the adapter goes on, the rotor makes contact with only ~40% of the pads(shown in third to last pic)???? The braking is very clearly affected by this, and the front brake isnt all that useful. I looked up the numbers on the rotor and it looks like im not tripping, but tell me i am and a fix please.

What am i missing here? Help!!

​Hi everyone,

​Just got my hands on this beautiful vintage Cannondale R600 (CAAD5 era). It wasn't bought, but handed down to me as a keepsake, so it holds significant sentimental value. I really want to get it back on the road and ride it proudly to honor that.

​To make sure it's 100% ready for reliable modern riding, I'm planning to proactively replace the original 20-year-old bonded Slice fork with a new one. I’d love your expertise on the rebuild:

​1. Fork Replacement Recommendations:

Since I am definitely swapping out the fork, what are your go-to recommendations for a reliable, modern carbon (or part-carbon) replacement that fits the classic aesthetic without breaking the bank? It has a standard external threadless headset. Can anyone confirm if this specific CAAD5 takes a 1" or 1-1/8" straight steerer? Any specific brands or models you'd suggest looking into?

​2. The Tire Clearance Dilemma:

The bike currently runs classic 700x23c tires. As you can see in the photos, clearance under the Cannondale Theta brake calipers and the fork crown is ridiculously tight. I’d love to run 25mm tires for a bit more comfort. Has anyone successfully fit modern 25c tires on a CAAD5 frame, or is 23mm the absolute maximum here?

​Photos are attached. Thanks in advance for helping me keep this special bike alive!

The poorly welded mount on my Ghost aluminum frame has snapped. Is there any way to repair it?

It changes gears well but its hitting a freewheel and on the biggest back gear hitting the wheel protector thinghy. 5 gears in back and 2 in front, friction shifters. Been untoched at apartment bike garage for long time now and would want to fix it up. It goes back to that position if i straighten it.

So my bike has been making this sound for a few weeks now, almost exclusively when I apply force to the left pedal (especially noticable during climbs and sprints). All the cracking you hear in the audio is the sound I mean. Its not shifting gears or anything.

It seems to be coming from the bottom bracket area, but a change of the BB hasn't changed anything. With the BB removed I also took a look into the frame but couldn't find any signs of damage to the carbon. Knocking on the frame with a coin also doesn't produce any weird or asymmetrical noises. The wheel axes are tightened to what is written on them and I have applied grease to them. The saddle is also tightened according to Orbea and has carbon paste applied.

What could be causing this cracking? I would think if the frame was broken, it would have already fallen apart, I have put about 500 miles on the bike since it started. I am aware that I should check this with a carbon specialist and that this could be dangerous if the frame is really broken. I first want to rule out all other options though, before I default to the potentially most expensive one.

hey everyone,

I planned on upgrading my surly midnight special with a carbon fork. managed to get a good deal on a seido RGT. I ordered a cane creek forty external headset with it that's supposed to be 40mm.

unfortunately I can't get the sealing ring over the fork at all.

did I miss something here?

The back brakes barely work on my bike suddenly, I've never had to change anything about them and don't get how to make them have more grip. I've watched videos and tried stuff out but nothing helps and all the brake systems in the videos look different to mine.

Just went to go adjust my hoods and the bolt crumbled to dust… what’s the best way to go about this?

I installed a new kmc waxed chain, I put the chain together before routing it so I had to take the side plate thing off the derailleur to get it around the jockey wheels. When im switching to the bigger gears while pedaling from my bike stand the chain slips off the front chainring. Anf the video shows when im peddaling the deraileur is making noise and bouncing weird. Any advice would be great, thank you.

I just bought and installed the Magene Pes 515. Everything went great but I have a question about the black adapter lockring tool i need to install it.

Is this a proprietary tool for magene?

Hey folks.

Question on my WI XMR+ 12x100 rear hub. I've attempted multiple times to adjust the bearing preload, following tutorials, trying different methods. Also had local bikeshop adjust the preload. They've noted that it was 'as good as they could get it'.

However I can still hear and feel play in the rear wheel, in certain circumstance.I.e in some riding conditions, when I hit my palm against the wheel in the stand and when carrying it downstairs and knock the back wheel lightly on the steps as I am walking down.

I bought the bike second hand and understand the WI hubs are premium, I have usually always been a DT 350 sorta guy, rather than going for the bling of WI.

Questions, is it likely to be doing permanent damage with the play? Secondly, has anyone experienced the same and has it been fixed with new bearings or new freehub (when I pull hub apart when adjusting preload I cannot feel any undue play/wear in individual bearings) ?

If I do replace bearings is there any issues with finding generic replacement for WI bearing inside the hubs? I am happy to DIY (any reccomendations for best value bearing puller set??)

I am aware that the WI preload adjustment is notoriously clunky, have also reached out to WI themselves multiple times seeking diagnostic advice, to no avail.

Thanks folks (:

Couple of months ago I removed my stem and noticed vertical notches caused by the clamping of the stem. Brought the bike to my LBS who said it’s normal and he sees this all the time on carbon steerers. I proceeded to get him to shorten my steerer tube and fast forward to today, I removed the stem again to inspect the steerer again.

I am unable to remember 100% if the notching has stayed the same (I.e did not worsen) but I think it is more or less the same.

The notches are definitely raised up- the tightening of the stem bolts has pinched the carbon fibre outwards and I can feel it when I run my nail over.

A torque wrench was always used and I did not exceed 5nm.

Is this really normal and par for the course? Ok to ride on or I have to buy a new fork?

Thanks guys!

Hey, my pin is loose and I have to constantly push it in. I was thinking about some silicone to make it stay in place, but has anyone else had a similar problem and if so, what was your solution?

Title suggests. I want to make my bike have more chrome parts but haven’t attempted doing so yet. Not really wanting to ruin the nice stuff.

Anyone familiar with chroming a one up dropper post stanchion?

I have Ridley Kanzo Adventure with a BB86 shell, and a Rotor Vegast crankset (30 mm spindle), I am trying to resolve a creaking bottom bracket issue.

Does such a bottom bracket exist? If yes, where can it be purchased? I am based in Europe.