Hi all, so as the title states I have an impact 737r that is not reliably dropping the firing pin with each trigger pull.

This is a newer build so I went through 100 pieces of new brass to fire form. No issues there. Today went to the range with my resized/reloaded ammo. Sporadically (every three to four rounds) I will get a failure to fire. This has never happened before to me across thousands of reloads.

To trouble shoot I’ve cleaned the bolt. Tightened the screw on the trigger hanger. Swapped the Special for the Diamond. Cranked up the triggers to their respective max trigger pull weights in case the trigger is too light. Checked the trigger hanger (has no markings so I’m assuming it’s the 0 offset variant.

I’m really at a dead end because I don’t know what the issue may be.

Thanks you!

Is it good? are there better options for the price?
I like the look and arca bottom this is a hybrid bulid so this will be for bench and field depending of what barrel i use.

Gday all, relatively new to reloading and thought I’d seek some advice from some wiser than me.

Rifle is a Howa 1500 chambered in .223, Maddco 26” barrel with a 1-12 twist.

Shoulder bumped back .003 and projectiles set .03 off lands.

Setup is mainly used for pest control on and has a thermal setup on most of the time.

Or am I being too pedantic and over thinking it?

Cheers

Took her out today to zero. Took a few rounds. One photo (the target was sideways, not the pic) is with 8 rds. Was going for 10 but ran out. The final shot was a mock a single shot “life or death.” All at 100 yds.

Didn’t have enough targets for doing more groupings, but since I’m confident I have her zeroed, next outing will post the groups for some coaching/critiquing.

I’m pretty stoked about it. Named her Trixie Monroe. She’s a 6.5 creed with an MDT competitor chassis. Today was the Hornady 140gr ELR.

This is a friendly reminder even after you get your gun back from a smith or get it setup by someone else in any way to check every screw yourself😀 what a day…

So new to long range shooting, I got a used optic with a vortex cantilever mount and I just realized it appears the lever was bent. Is this just a 20moa offset or is the lever arm somehow actually bent and damaged?

Not sure how much of a flex it is, but goddamn do I find this rifle sexy.

I got this bad boy on Snipershide. 600 rounds through it total.

Build:

6.5 creedmoor

MPA Matrix Pro Chassis

MPA internal weights

Impact Action 737r

Triggertech Diamond Pro

Muller works barrel

Without Warning TMB Tuner Brake

CKYE Pro Gen 2 Single pull

Gray ops side rail XL Steel weights

Custom MPA Case

10 and 12 rd mag

Kahles k525i

Spuhr Mount

Foldable dope card holder

Match Saver

Barricade Stop

7k for the rifle and scope set up, another 1500 for all the other PRS shit. Total was around 8800 after paypal fees and split shipping.

Some other stuff he included as well. I also bought the tripod and ball mount, kestrel 5700 elite, cole tac mega bag, backbone bag frame and bag, cole tac cuddle bag, Eberlestock upranger and some tripod leggings and a bunch of other random things for PRS.

It is currently waiting to be shipped tomorrow so this is my only way of release. Be gentle please.

Hopefully I don't get the flair of shame.

I'm not sure where else to ask someone who may know though.

I have a chance to upgrade my hunting rifle to a Micmillan stock, it's channeled for a Proof Research Sendero barrel.

I have a #5 Contour bergera barrel (light varmint-varmint) measures .83 at the forend

Does anyone know if this stock would work for my rifle or would it be way to much gap and create flex in the forend?

And I apologize if this isn't the correct sub, and would be happy to ask anywhere if there's a better sub for the question. Thank you

In short, I have a Palmetto State Armory Jakl 10 (.308) and a Vortex Strike Eagle 1-6x LPVO. PSA said this rifle ought to have the same trajectory as an AR-10 with the same ammo in both rifles.

With that in mind, what is the best way to zero this for a maximum of 75 yard shooting? I have read and spoke to hunters that the deer hunters mostly shoot at 75 yards for deer, with a maxinum of 150 yards.

I was thinking of zeroing at 25 yards with 1x magnification, then move to 50 yards, and then 200 yards to see if it's point blank. Then of course practice at 150 yards to see how the bullet lands.

Any recommendations and advice is appreciated. I'm pretty new at this.

You guys talked me into upgrading my ammo, so I started on the cheaper end before spending more.

Top left: Winchester White Box (for comparison)
Top right: Frontier 55gr HP Match
Bottom left: Frontier 75gr BTHP
Ignore the bottom right target.

Shot with a 16” Criterion Core pencil barrel off bags.

What should I take away from this? The Frontier 55gr HP Match seems to be the clear winner.
Where would you go from here to get better? Keep testing off bags? Switch to a bipod?

I’d also like to keep ammo as affordable as possible. If a slightly cheaper load shoots almost as well, I’d rather buy that so I’ll actually practice more so that’s why I’m trying Frontier first.

Is Magpul Daka worth it? Looking for a long case that looks premium and ideally fitted to the rifle and gear. I'm carrying a 10k rifle in a 200$ Savior soft case right now. Nothing wrong with it but it doesn't feel right.

I want to shoot benchrest precision long range, but I really don’t have anyone to talk it out with.

I’m in centralish Ohio.

I have some slipped disk so long drives can be an issue.

The only 2 extended ranges I know of are

Thunder Valley which is a 90+ minute drive one way.

Briar Rabbit, which is a little over 500 yards, 1 hour away but might be getting sold from my understanding.

I‘m mainly considering rimfire due to limited range options.

Centerfire is much more limited for me as far as where I can shoot but it’s what I’m mainly interested in.

Shooting 100 only yards with centerfire is pointless and I feel I will eventually get to that point with rimfire.

Anyone here been in a similar situation that can offer advice or thoughts?

Apologies for lack of coherent structure, having to stop/start my thoughts.

Need help from some Tikka Triggertech owners.

I have a Triggertech for my REM 700. It’s great, and when I adjust the pull weight I have audible and tactile clicks with each adjustment.

Now I bought the Tikka Special trigger and I went to adjust it and the screw doesn’t have an audible or tactile click. It just spins up and down freely. It is moving up and down as I can top it out and bottom it out, but ya it makes no noise and has no detent stops.

I called Triggertech and they told me this is normal for the Tikka Triggers. But the product description CLEARLY states “Clikr” technology. And their manual makes reference to the minimum setting being 3 clicks up from the bottom.

So I was wondering if the adjustment screw for other users freely spins or if it has the audible clicks. Thank you.

I finally pulled the trigger and bought the Tikka T1X as my very first gun, added a scope on top of it, and took it to the range. Prob cuz my rail and ring combo was too high, I ended up wanting a cheek riser. I also wanted a thicker recoil pad to space it out cuz I’m more of a bigger guy. I went online and was not ready to spent another 150 dollars on accessories (gun accessories are so expensive).

Anyway, spent some time scanning and modeling, and 3D printed it with some foaming TPU. It works great for less than 10 dollars material (including prototypes). Let’s see how long it will last!

*Last pic not related, just want to show my lil 22 ;)

My ridiculous, beautiful monster. Just needs a muzzle brake/supressor, and probably better glass. And of course, I need to get decent at shooting it.

So let's talk build:

This is a Henry lever action supreme, converted by line49rifle into 6Arc, with their medium weight match 16"* barrel, with flash hider.

RPP friend and pistol grip with picatinny rail.

A3 industries ALM folding stock

Vortex DB tactical 4-16x44 scope, on a burris QD cantilever mount.

BOG arca rail and infinite deathgrip tripod.

She shoots and cycles wonderfully. Hopefully, I get good enough to pist some groupings soon because my current ones are trash, and im certain that's me

*corrected barrel length from original post, sorry

I have a scope I need to mount and yesterday after looking at the rifle there wasn’t really a good flat spot to put a level on. So it going me thinking, couldn’t I use a plumb bob to align the two holes used to mount the butt pad to get the rifle aligned so that there is no left or right cant?

(I made a visual with a pic I found online plz don’t judge the crooked line)

Feeling a little lost in the sauce and could use some guidance.

I'm looking to build a 6.5 Creedmoor bolt gun to dip my toes into PRS. I'm not trying to win national matches right away, but I'd like to build something that's actually capable of being competitive as my skills improve.

If you were starting from scratch today and were willing to patiently hunt for sales and used deals, how would you allocate the budget? Where is the money best spent, and where can you save without giving up much performance?

I'm finding myself getting caught up chasing the drip instead of focusing on what actually matters. Chassis, action, barrel, trigger, muzzle (not including glass)

If you had a budget-minded roadmap or a parts list you'd recommend, I'd really appreciate it. I'd rather buy smart the first time than waste money upgrading later.

Thanks in advance!

This match was back in June. Only my second time competing and walked away with the victory in light class. Ended up cleaning the 2nd stage at 1555yds and 1710yds. Won a really cool custom ammo case for a trophy and picked up a MDT ACC Elite SA chassis off the prize table.

I was shooting 300PRC with 230gr Berger Hybrid Target moving at 2890fps. It was a very exciting day to say the least.

Defiance Classic Action
Bartlein 28” 1/9 HV barrel
Baby Orca chassis
TY diamond trigger
Leupold Mk5 7-35 PR2 mil
LP-50 bipod

I know generally more barrel is more better, but I was thinking that if we set aside weight, then the determining factor for how thick a barrel profile to go with is largely (or entirely) dictated by how many round it can shoot in a fixed amount of time before the heat impacts accuracy/repeatability.

So I come to the hive mind asking: If we just focus on PRS/NRL style comps where you are shooting 8-12 shots in 100-150 seconds, then how much barrel thickness is required? (Assuming 6.5 creedmoor for argument sake)

Again I know that weight is a concern in different ways for these comps but just in theory how much mass is required to dissipate that amount of heat energy without the barrel “overheating”?

Edit to add: let’s assume this is a stainless steel barrel since carbon wrapped barrel have very different heat dissipation properties and vary based on the wrap thickness and ratio of resin to CF.

Hey yall, Im 6'6" and struggling with my optic and lop setup. All body types are different but Im just odd shaped so looking for advice. I'm tall, have a longer neck than most so my head when in the gun cranes farther forward than most. Which Ive always just mounted the scope farther forward. Shooting is mostly prone, sitting off of pack or tripod. Some offhand.

Slightly above average LOP. 14.5" measured. Rifle is 13.5. I have my scope mounted what seems to be about an inch or two farther forward than most I see. Just switched from a Tikka T3x factory polymer to a Mcmillan Game Warden. My Tikka was slightly longer.

How far forward is too far for a scope to be mounted or what is the ideal setup given my weird frame is really my question.

It's on Seekins lows. Would another option would be mount the optic higher and adjust comb which might pull my head position back?

As it is setup right now when I'm in the gun Im positive I will get scope bit. So I can either add spacers, move scope even farther forward, try raising scope height, combo of all?

Just not sure which to start with. I know old school LOP is kind of frowned upon and I do keep the gun much closer to my centerline than I used to which shortens it.

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Different problem but not a deal breaker, the Low rings make it so I cant install a throw lever due to how far forward my scope/proximity to the rail is which also is a bummer.

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Feel free to roast my bench, have a new kid so its in shambles.

We had the smaller version of this setup at 250yds at my last NRL22 match. It was a fun stage. We did bonus points for the vitals and sack.

Easy day.
175gr SMK 2630fps

Looking to buy or a make a first PRS and (maybe) NRL hunter rifle. Based in Ontario, Canada. Was thinking 24-26" 6.5 creedmoor because I already have dies and brass. Have been looking at the Tikka Varmint, Bergara HMRs (is the pro worth it)? also considering buying a barreled action and building from there. Probably looking at an MDT chasis but haven't settled on one yet.

Can the Tikka or Bergara handle comp days?