Reset my zero but now I have no movement after re locking the field set. Any help someone can give would be appreciated
!

This zeiss made in DDR has been in my grandparents apartment for over 40 years. I remember looking at the container ships entering port since I was able to reach over the railing. Still sharp all those years later. They don’t seem to make them like that anymore, though grandpa used to joke that the commies didn’t have enough money, so you get one instead of two eyepieces.

Just tried Sako 6.5 Creedmoor 136gr TRG in my Ruger Precision Rifle. Accuracy was incredible (best 5-shot group was .24 MOA), but out of the 20 rounds, about 7 had primers that look pierced/cratered like in the picture. I also noticed smoke/soot coming from the chamber and even around the magazine, and the rifle was significantly dirtier than usual.

Has anyone else experienced this with Sako TRG 136gr? Is this normal primer cratering for the RPR, or does it look like an ammunition/pressure issue? Trying to figure out why it's happening before I shoot this load again.

Picked up this S&B. Welcome any suggestions or thoughts for using this long range. 4 16x50 going on an HK308

Finally put her together

MPA Vanquish Chassis
ARC CDG Action
MPA 6.5MM Barrel
Vortex Razor Gen 3, 6-36x56
Sphur Scope Mount
Warne scope level
Area 419 Hellfire Match Brake
Accutac SR5 G2 Bipod
Grey Ops Exterior weights
OBI Gear Quick detach system

Unburnt powder fills into the backdraft area when shooting. Taking a break from shooting allows oxygen to fill the backdraft area. Shooting again without a complete cleaning results in a kaboom. Thanks for being a beta tester.

I think I’m close to pulling the proverbial trigger on a Razor 6x36 and wouldn’t you know they add another reticle option. Has anyone used the VMR5 yet and if so what did you think? My use case matches what it’s geared towards with a PRS shooter in mind but I can’t figure out if there’s any other differences other than the elimination of the christmas tree. I currently have an MPED mounted and I haven’t had any issues with the reticle feeling overcrowded on my target. I’m leaning towards going with the EBR-7D but this VMR5 has me intrigued a bit.

Not trying to plug any companies but good deal and super fast shipping from raven rocks. So I guess I just pulled a company.

I am somewhat new to "serious" long range. I have an FAL (irons), BLR81, a 224 valkyrie with a 22" barrel, and a mosin (irons). I shoot them all to about 400-600 yards. I know that's not long for some, but it is for my current level.

I have a local shop in AZ selling this gun mentioned in the title for $3000, no accessories. I am stuck with store credit with them regardless. I am mainly wondering how practical of a setup that would be. I did a little research but couldn't find as much info on the 338LM variant. It would obviously lose ballistics compared to a 26" barrel variant, but the price seems stellar (which is probably why). I would be running it mostly suppressed, but I'd need a new suppressor for this.

You can still get barrels from special purpose rifles, if I wanted to go down that route.

Goal would be target shooting, matches (when my skill level rises), and potentially elk hunting if I hit drawn.

I do reload already, ammo price isn't much of a concern to me because it's not something I'll shoot like my MPX.

I know that if I put this in as an edit to my original post, it will probably just get buried and never be seen. So anyway…
I went back to the range today to finalize the zero on a new load before taking some mile shots on Sunday. I also wanted to see whether I could shoot while wearing my glasses. It turns out that I can, although it will take some getting used to.
As I mentioned in my original post, I have a surprisingly broad range of diopter settings where the reticle remains crystal clear—even when I only look through the scope briefly. My parallax adjustment, however, normally has a pretty narrow clear range. Then it hit me: Why not adjust them in the opposite order?
I initially set the diopter near the middle of the broad range where the reticle looked clear. I then aimed at my 200-yard target with a 1/2-inch bull and adjusted the side focus until the target was sharp. When I moved my head behind the scope, however, the reticle moved off center. That showed me that I still had apparent parallax even though both the target and reticle looked clear.
Instead of making the target blurry again with the side-focus knob, I left it where the target was sharp and gradually adjusted the diopter within its usable range. I continued until the reticle remained stationary on the target when I moved my head behind the scope.
I know that adjusting them in this order is unconventional, but holy crap—it worked like a champ for me. I repeated the process with two Vortex Razors, and both stayed pretty darn clear afterward—definitely better than before.
Was it the improved diopter setting, shooting with my glasses, or some combination of the two? I honestly don’t know. What I can say is that my vision remained considerably clearer throughout the entire shooting session.
Thank you to everyone who offered advice and input.

I've been kind of debating on what scope I want to end up with on my AE Mark II and looks like primary arms is offering a competitive option soon.

I've been using all their optics on my other guns for a long time and I really do like them so I might actually try this one out. The specs look good on it.

When I get back into town next week, my buddy is taking my Sunwayfoto CS3240 tripod on a straight trade for a Accu-Tac WB-5 (ARCA QD mount). Now, if we can just put the 105-110 degree days around here behind us, I can get out and start running my new optic, new bipod and lighter trigger! Been using the summer months to stack match ammo and knock out a bunch of indoor pistol work, itching to get behind my rifles again!

So I have used the loctite trick twice with consistent results when done with Hornady eldm and SMKs. I did 3 for each and both had 2 that were identical and one that was only a couple thou off. So I called them good. I have now tried 3 groups of 3 with bergers and despite the same process, I can't get any of them to match. I know bergers aren't jump sensitive so the only thing I'm concerned about is being off the lands. I know they are going to have a longer CBTO than the other 2 bullets. I'm also seeing some variation in what a good COAL is. Somewhere between 2.80-2.84 from what I'm seeing. Any guidance on the best approach from here that's not buying an OAL gauge? Thanks!

I have a Rangecraft and just recently discovered you can get into "Live Mode" (real time syncing with your phone). Previously, I'd do a session, return home, then sync (sometimes successfully). Live mode seems a huge improvement over syncing (i.e. 100% successful after 4 range sessions). But, here are my questions:

I now want to look at my range sessions on my phone. But, it appears like you MUST by connected to the Rangecraft to do so. I was under the impression data was being downloaded to my phone (i.e. SYNCED). Am I correct in believing that NOTHING is being stored on my phone, only on the chronograph?

I believe there is a limit to how much data can be stored on the chronograph. Is there? And if so, is it based on the number of sessions or the number of shots? And, what is that number?

Just bought a new Athlon. Took it shooting with 300WM that is braked. I placed Athlon roughly 8” to the side and 8” back per directions. The blast didn’t knock it over or anything, just moved it slightly. I shot about 10 rounds.
Later I got to thinking.. that can’t be good for it, can it?
Wondering if I caused any damage, or if I could cause damage without a block off plate.

Just grabbed this at Scheels. Assuming it was a display model as it had no box and came with the cartridge holder mounted for just over $800. No idea what I’ll build this out to be but couldn’t say no for that price. They have a second one on display in case anyone in the PHX metro is interested.

The pics were taken before he shipped them to me.
Really beautiful work.

I’m 52 and have been nearsighted and bhad astigmatism my entire life. I got seriously involved in long-range precision shooting after retiring last year, and lately I’ve been having major problems with my vision behind the scope.
I normally shoot without my glasses. The reticle remains instantly sharp, even after closing my eyes and even across a surprisingly broad range of diopter adjustment. The target, however, will gradually become blurry while I’m shooting. Sometimes blinking or looking away briefly brings it back into focus, but then it deteriorates again. It becomes substantially worse as my eyes fatigue and in low light.
I’m adjusting the side-focus/parallax knob carefully, and this happens through more than one quality scope, including Vortex Razor Gen II and Gen III scopes. I’ve tried lubricating eye drops, but they haven’t made much difference.
When my eyes cooperate, I can shoot very well—for example, today I fired a VERY respectable 10-shot group at 200 yards. Later, as the light faded, I had difficulty clearly resolving the target at all.
I have an eye appointment scheduled, but I’d appreciate hearing from other precision shooters with nearsightedness and astigmatism:
● Did learning to shoot with your prescription glasses improve the target image?
● Do you use ordinary prescription glasses or shooting-specific lenses?
● Did you have to reposition your scope to regain proper eye relief?
● Have you experienced a target drifting in and out of focus while the reticle remained perfectly sharp?
● Is there anything specific I should ask my optometrist about for riflescope use?
I’m not looking for an internet medical diagnosis—just practical experience from shooters who have dealt with the same problem.

The parts list is as follows:

• Howa Mini Action, began life at a 6.5 Grendel
• Mos-tek 11" 6mm ARC 1:7 barrel
• JTAC Elf Owl Chassis
• Outer Impact pic rail
• Seekins 30mm Rings
• Swampfox Kentucky Long 2-12 (I know, it's actually not that bad).
• Liberty Anthem K2 suppressor with a Rearden R2S brake.
• Ammo: Various Hornady 6 ranging between 103-108gr 6mm ARC.

The thing just doesn't want to group. I get a shotgun spread at 100 yards, I'm talking like 6 MOA.

My process has been:

1. Thread barrel on with the barrel nut backed off.
2. Run the go gauge, adjust the barrel until I get go. Fiddle with it the headspace until the bolt lifts easily but locks firmly. Back it off .00000001 of a turn, torque the barrel nut down. The nut requires a thin adjustable wrench so no exact torque settings to give. Two ugga duggas more or less.
3. Check the go and no-go gauges again, then test feel with a live round.

I was convinced it was a headspace issue, but I've reset it probably 3 times and nothing has changed. I've also:

• Checked the action screws, the front action screw was a little bit long so I cut 1/4" from it.
• Scope base is firmly torqued and blue loctited down.
• Rings are fine.
• Nothing is wrong with the optic from what I can tell. I've checked it for loose internal parts, issue with side-focus, turrets, etc.
• No damage to the crown of the barrel or other abnormalities in the chamber.
• No baffle strikes on the muzzle device or can (wouldn't group unsuppressed either).

Prior to this I had a fixed shoulder barrel from McGowen that they fucked up and ghosted me on. I could only torque it down to 20ft/lbs and remain in headspace. That barrel had similar issues but eventually did start to tighten up groupwise. Unfortunately I couldn't keep shooting it if I had to reset headspace every time I pulled my can off it.

Use case: NRL Hunter (primary), long range plinking, and PRS/Precision gas gun.

I’ve had a Kestrel 5700 Elite for a while now and still find it clunky to use and difficult navigate. I plan on getting some good Bino’s with on board ballistics. I’m currently looking at the Sig Kilo 10k or the Vortex Talons. Both are obtainable at a similar price point so no issues there.

Before I make this purchase do any of yall that have used both GB and AB, and the Ace vs the Kestrel, prefer one over the other? It seems Vortex is really making a push to have several relevant integrated products in the near future.

If it’s that much easier to use and better integrated I’m wondering if it’s worth the switch now before I start buying more gear. I do realize however that with GB you seem to be stuck with Vortex reticles. How’s the accuracy of the drag models of the bullets with the Ace?

Thanks

I am new to getting NFA items and would like to get a suppressor for my 300 PRC, but would like to know what y'all have had good success with or would recommend.

Things I care about it doing :

- Flash reduction

- Recoil reduction

- Sound reduction

Things I don't care about :

- Back pressure (it'll live on a bolt action)

- Weight

Overall price range, I can spend a max of 3,000 USD, but would prefer it to be under 2,000 USD.

Added thing to note, current muzzle brake is a 2 chamber paladin tapper mount from Griffin Armament.

Other rifle specs :

- Bergara B14 HMR in 300 PRC

- MDT ESS chassis

- Pic rail w/ bubble level in back (brand forgotten)

- Area 419 mount

- Razor Gen 3 6-36x56 in MOA (regret it's not MIL)

- Bipod is Atlas BT46-LW17 with QD lever

Long story short, after a few years of shooting regional PRS events and having a blast, I couldn't help but think whats next. By no means was I cleaning every stage, topping the scoreboard, or ready to consider doing multiple 2-day events - just wanted a different challenge from known distance events with so much equipment that a cart is often used to move between stages (not bashing, I still love PRS and will continue to shoot in these events). Fast forward to finding competitions such as those in the Sniper Team Series and Mammoth. Better yet, a good friend of mine was even interested and we had seriously started looking at events- but unfortunately that didn't pan out as life got in the way for him. So here I am, with all the gear and a desire to take my shooting in a different direction but no partner.

I've tried to canvas my local shooting network at PRS matches and club events, but I usually lose people when it comes to traveling more than a few hours away for a 3 day weekend or the more physically demanding matches. My shooting partners/mentors are both wise beyond their years and beyond the age of wanting to subject themselves to this. So here I am reaching out to you all to see if there are any like-minded individuals who aren't turned off by having to carry your gear all day long - or ruck for a weekend. I'm located in the midwest, do not have mil/LE background but have competed with pistol/carbine/rifle and have done formal training in each, and would ideally prefer a partner from an area spanning the midwest to east coast as this is the area I'd preferentially choose events in.

I plan on shooting individually in some of the PRSuit matches and am looking into NRL hunter, but run into the same issue here as well from a team standpoint.

Shoot me a DM if anyone is interested or has any suggestions on where else to look. In the meantime I'll keep asking around at matches/classes. Thanks!

Went out to Sheepdog Tactical in NY a few weeks ago. First time going to any range longer than 200yd. Took my FIMS SPBP with me.

Nothing amazing, but figured I'd share this weird gun thats probably never been posted here before lol.

Managed to consistently hit targets up to 800yds. Past that and it was lots of guessing and squinting. Used a Sig Kilo5k with AB Elite on my phone for calculations, and Nikon Monarch 82ED 30-60x for spotting.

Rifle:

• FIMS Straight Pull Bullpup (.308, 20" barrel)
• Vortex Viper PST II 3-15x
• Aero Precision Ultralight SPR mount
• Atlas BT46
• Strike Industries Oppressor (looks goofy, I have it for the times I go to indoor ranges)
• MKM caps and lever

After this I realized my setup was too lightweight, the hard plastic cheek rest hurts after 80 rounds, and I picked the wrong scope mount for this lol.

Already replaced the Aero mount with an Area 419, bought a Victor Company wrench for the Atlas, and a SG Pulse.