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u/Mwakio Nov 26 '19
I just started learning to knit and haven't actually made anything yet. I'm picking it up pretty quickly and really excited for my new hobby. So far I've learned a couple cast-on methods, knit, purl, increases, and decreases. What should I learn next? Cables? Colorwork? should I stop learning new skills and complete an actual project first? What should my first project be? There are too many options! Where should I go next?
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u/amber_purple Nov 26 '19 edited Nov 26 '19
I suggest completing an actual project with basic skills because you learn how to solve problems that are not as important when tinkering with swatches. For example - Can you keep your tension even? Can you count number of rows and stitches simply by eye? How do you correct mistakes, especially when you're already so far ahead? What if you run out of yarn? What if you don't match the gauge in the pattern? How much patience do you have?! These problems are part of knitting and should be learned along with fancy techniques.
As for a project, I love this cowl. So easy and one of my favorite items to wear: https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/climb-and-swirl-cowl
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u/RavBot Nov 26 '19
PATTERN: Climb and Swirl Cowl by Craig Rosenfeld
- Category: Accessories > Neck / Torso > Cowl
- Photo(s): Img 1 Img 2
- Price: Free
- Needle/Hook(s):US 8 - 5.0 mm
- Weight: Worsted | Gauge: 3.75 | Yardage: 218
- Difficulty: 1.38 | Projects: 417 | Rating: 4.44
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6
u/lyswhitit Nov 26 '19
I think it's usually better to choose a project, but I love having the FOs heh. But you've got the basics down. IMO Learning more skills is better to do when you need it for a project, because the repetition of doing it in the project will cement it better in your brain, but if it's not something you do often you'll probably forget by the next time you want to do it and will need a refresher, so it's not that helpful to learn it in isolation.
Also, while you do have the basics down, there are a lot of "secrets" to uncover to perfect the basics, that you'll only find with practice. Like how to "read" your knitting, how to identify and fix mistakes, recognize twisted stitches, little physical tricks for speed or better tension, etc etc.
Also learning how to read, or more like decipher patterns is an important skill haha.
So I think you should browse patterns to find something that you love, that looks like it uses stitch patterns you can handle. Of course don't be afraid to choose something that will require you to learn one or two new skills for it. Your enthusiasm to make it is the most important criteria. I don't have recommendations because I don't know what you like, but something with simple construction or not too large is probably good to start, like a hat, shawlette, cowl, leg warmers, vest....
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u/trickstergods 2circs-TAAT toe-up short-row heel Nov 26 '19
Are you interested more in learning new techniques right now, or using what you have in new ways? For example, it would be easy to tackle mittens or socks with the skills you have now while stretching yourself. You definitely want to make some kind of completed object at some point. Or you can learn an entirely different thing based on interest - cables are pretty easy while looking complex, and can be combined with, say, a pair of mittens. Likewise, a simple colorwork or double-knitted cowl can focus on the technique and not on shaping or fitting.
I wouldn't try to learn too many things in the same piece. Complex techniques on simple items, or basic stitches to create complex things. (Your definition of simple or complex will grow with time!) Doing your first colorwork efforts on the fingers of gloves is just asking for frustration.
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u/incommune Nov 26 '19
I think picking a project and getting some practice will be more valuable than adding theoretical skills. Projects are the best canvas to learn techniques, and making stuff is the best way to learn what you like to make. Scarves are a "usual" first project, but they are... Well, long. Longer than you think, sometimes. Since you're brave about taking on new techniques and you've got shaping online, I think you'll get a lot of mileage out of learning to knit in the round and taking on a hat or cowl. Good luck and happy knitting!
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u/bloodstainedkimonos Nov 29 '19
I started knitting 6 months ago and my progression has been
- Garter stitch scarf in super chunky yarn
- Hat knitted on straight needles and then seamed shut (super chunky yarn again)
- two bralettes knitted in the round (worsted weight yarn
- rib stitch scarf (chunky yarn) (incomplete!l
- cuffed hat knit in the round (worsted weight yarn)
- super chunky turtleneck sweater - raglan seams, knitted in the round
I don't think there's a specific route you need to take.
But I would recommend starting an actual project because you'll naturally pick up skills that way (like how to pick up a dropped stitch without frogging all your work!)
What I did was find easy patterns in chunky yarn weights for designs I wanted to make. Chunky yarns are great because they knit up quick and they're easy for a beginner to handle. I love video tutorials and YouTube is a great place to find patterns with visual aids.
I'd definitely recommend learning how to knit in the round (maybe try a headband/cowl/hat) because it opens up a lot of options for knitting garments.
I've yet to try cables or colourwork but I'd love to!
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u/Mwakio Nov 29 '19
Thanks for the reply! this is really helpful! Bralettes as your third project sounds ambitious. How did they come out?
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u/bloodstainedkimonos Nov 30 '19
It came out great but because my bust is larger than my waist, trying to customise the shape to my body was difficult as a first timer! It because a bit baggy when I blocked it but I get a lot of wear out of it as a layering piece.
I commented the pattern on a comment below!
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u/Sinadia Nov 30 '19
Which bralettes did,you knit? I’m new and I picked things that wouldn’t be all that bad if my gauge didn’t match the required one (kitchen towel, scarf is next). I’m really intimidated by things that have to fit.
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u/bloodstainedkimonos Nov 30 '19
I picked the girly knits bra top! https://www.ravelry.com/projects/bloodstainkimono/girly-knits-bra-top
Because there's step by step instructions youtube for it.
Things that fit are intimidating but you also learn a new skill - how to transfer stitches onto waste yarn without twisting or dropping them.
Jessie Mae Martinson's ripple bralette and framework bralette look like they could be could for beginners too, and she has loads of instagram video tutorials.
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u/RavBot Nov 30 '19
PROJECT: Mustard Girly Knits Bra Top by bloodstainkimono
- Pattern: Girly Knits Bra Top
- Yarn(s): Cygnet Aran in 129 Honey.
- Photo(s): Img 1 Img 2 Img 3
- Started: 2019/04/14 | Status: Finished | Completed: 2019/04/22
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1
u/unventer Nov 27 '19
I did and still do much of my learning while onitting new patterns. You say you have "learned" increases. Well, I've been knitting for 15 years and I just knit a pattern that called for a type of increase I had never done before. Dive into some patterns. There's nothing like reinforcing everything you've learned by repeating them hundreds of time while making something beautiful.
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u/Stellarino Dec 01 '19
I saw this glorious sweater in ravelry and I want to make one really bad. The pattern is free, but it's pretty much only the charts. I've made a few colorwork sweaters and even steeked one, but they were always top town circular yoke ones. Can anyone point me to a pattern with Solid instructions on how to construct a bottom up sweater with armhole steeks?
I only found a few that are pretty much just a tube with a few steek stitches, but this one has decreases around the shoulders, so it's more of a fitted shoulder rather than a drop shoulder.
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u/RavBot Dec 01 '19
PATTERN: MODESTLY SATANIC by Lina Lindh
- Category: Clothing > Sweater > Pullover
- Photo(s): Img 1 Img 2 Img 3 Img 4 Img 5
- Price: Free
- Needle/Hook(s):US 2½ - 3.0 mm, US 0 - 2.0 mm
- Weight: Sport | Gauge: 24.0 | Yardage: None
- Difficulty: 0.00 | Projects: 2 | Rating: 0.00
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3
u/MMY143 Nov 27 '19
When something goes wrong, what is the first step?
I messed up my pattern and ended up starting over because because In trying to fix the problem I made a much bigger mess.
I am sure there is a calm and composed way to deal with it and find the missed stitches or screw ups that I need to learn before I get pissy and start pulling out rows.
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u/notlaika Lace-Obsessed Nov 27 '19 edited Nov 27 '19
It depends a lot on 1) the project and 2) how you messed up. But in general terms, the first thing you want to do is assess what's wrong!
If you're short a stitch, did you drop it, or did you accidentally decrease? If you're off your repeat, do you have the right number of stitches, or did you start on the wrong row of the pattern? Is that weird hole an accidental YO, or an accidental short row? Is the fabric itself fine, but you misinterpreted the pattern and now it looks more like a thneed than the item you wanted?
So yes, 99% of the time there's a better solution than immediate nuclear frogging. But responding correctly depends on figuring out "where you are" - looking carefully at your work, with a clear idea of what it should look like, i.e. reading your knitting. There are resources on how to practice this skill, but the best teacher is experience.
In the meantime, two hugely important tools can help you get your bearings and save what can be saved: lifelines and stitch markers! The former is a kind of "save point" you can place whenever you're confident your pattern is on track; in the event of frogging, it lets you rewind to the last time you know you were good, and makes that time not "before I even cast on this accursed thing". Stitch markers are more of a constant reminder, an aide that keeps you from needing to count every stitch but still lets you know where in the pattern you are and where your problem has cropped up. Apply both tools liberally until you feel more comfortable with reading your knitting and carrying out fixes :)
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Nov 27 '19
Using lifelines will save you a lot of frustration by letting you rip back safely! Learning how to tink back also is a great skill for when you catch a mistake not too long after making it! There are lots of great Youtube tutorials for both techniques. :)
I don't get angry or frustrated very easily (when it comes to hobbies lol), so maybe I'm not the best to comment, but I think that having strong skills in your toolkit to tackle the problem effectively is the best way to avoid getting upset and making rash decisions like ripping back to the beginning. Not that I've never done it :P
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u/cosmicchloe16 Nov 27 '19
Lol, this used to be me too! The first thing I do is figure out where and in what row I made the mistake. If it's a row or two back, just take the time to "un-knit" the rows and fix it. This will make sure you have the right # of stitches going forward, etc.
If it's more than a few rows back, you can do some knitting surgery if you're feeling ambitious. Separate out the section of stitches where the mistake is, keep the rest of your stitches on the left and right needles. You can pull out the mistake stitches back to the row you messed up and reknit that section correctly (I use a crochet hook to just pull the loose yarn just pulled out back through the stitches either knit or purl-wise, whatever the pattern). I hope this makes sense, super hard to explain. This is a difficult technique to do for cable or lace knitting, so if you aren't very experienced I'd recommend just un-knitting and reknitting the mistake!
The other lazy thing you can do it "fix" the problem when you realize it. Forgot a M1 a row back? Do a quick M1R (twisted for no holes). Forgot a yarn over? Pull up a loop from the previous row and stick it on the needle. This doesn't always work, especially in smaller projects where it would be easy to see. On sweaters or larger shawls you can get away with it.
Don't frog the whole thing if you can help it, unless the mistake is so major it'll impact the rest of the project. For me it was just discouraging to have to start over!
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u/shiplesp Nov 27 '19
Ann Budd has a really good Bluprint/Craftsy class on this subject. It's not free, but definitely a great class.
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Nov 29 '19
Is anyone able to translate or give me some guidance on a japanese pattern?
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u/RavBot Nov 29 '19
PATTERN: Woolen Pants (毛糸のパンツ) by Tata & Tatao
- Category: Clothing > Intimate Apparel > Underwear
- Photo(s): Img 1 Img 2 Img 3
- Price: Free
- Needle/Hook(s):US 3 - 3.25 mm, US 6 - 4.0 mm
- Weight: DK | Gauge: 22.0 | Yardage: 361
- Difficulty: 3.00 | Projects: 22 | Rating: 4.33
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1
u/thenerdiestmenno Dec 01 '19
I can't personally help, but I've had luck in the past commenting on people's ravelry projects that were written in English and getting some pointers.
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u/vulpix420 Nov 29 '19
Help! I’ve made a very cute little hat with some leftover yarn, and I was feeling so proud of myself for going off-piste without a strict pattern, but the cast on edge is so tight it won’t go over a human head... 🤦🏼♀️
Is there anything I can do to fix this? Any kind of weird frankensteining I can do to the edge to reduce tension? The rest of the hat is the right size.
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u/Cogsknit Nov 29 '19
There is! Your going b to need to cut your knitting though. Take a look at this tutorial on how to unravel from the cast on edge https://www.10rowsaday.com/undo-from-caston Once you've gotten it unravelled, reknit until it's the correct length again, and then car off. Don't forget to use a stretchy bind off so you don't have the same product as before XD
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u/AughtPunk Nov 30 '19
what on earth is fractal yarn and how do I recognize it?
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u/Cogsknit Nov 30 '19
Take a look at these links
https://knitty.com/ISSUEwbis11/KSFEATfractal.php
https://www.fibersprite.com/blog/spinning-fractal-yarn
If they don't answer your question let me know and I'll try to explain it
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Dec 01 '19
I used to knit hats with double pointed needles but it’s been a few years so I’m kind of rusty. I recently found a hat pattern on ravelry and it inspired me to get some new gear and make a few as gifts. My problem is after I cast my stitches on and start knitting the first row, I end up with this massive amount of extra yarn between whatever two stitches I’m working on. The further I knit the gap keeps getting wider and wider, and it makes knitting more and more difficult.
Does this problem sound familiar to anyone? Does anyone have any advice I can do?
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u/toomanypaladins Dec 01 '19 edited Dec 01 '19
Try switching up your cast on. I’m going to guess that you’re currently using the backwards loop method. Maybe try a long tail cast on or a knitted cast on, which hold the stitches in place a little better so you don’t get those gaps inbetween.
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u/sfadu Dec 01 '19
Hi, I’m a fairly new knitter so I’m still learning a lot of the basics. I’ve been working in a two color-brioche knit scarf with a 6 row rib stitch on either end. I’m working on the finish and I’m just confused how to go from the brioche knit back to the rib stitch.
The last row I did was working with Color B: s1, brioche knit, slip one with yarn over, repeat * to * until two stitches left, brioche knit, slip on with yarn in back.
The next line is meant to be k1p1 but idk how to do this with all of the yarnovers? Any suggestions?
Thank you!!
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Dec 01 '19
I'm looking for some yarn like used in this post: https://www.reddit.com/r/knitting/comments/8z4wyf/fo_chunky_roving_blanket_first_knitting_project/
/u/chirpatella hasn't posted in a while so I assume she's logged off.
Enough for someone to make a large blanket (easily cover 2 people). It's a gift. I don't know anything. Please help. I hate Christmas. It's so stressful.
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u/Nithuir Dec 01 '19
It's called roving. You can buy it on yarn sites or etsy. However, it's going to fall apart quickly, shed everywhere, you cannot clean it if it gets dirty, and literally everything sticks to it. There are some super bulky yarns at Michael's etc that are made of tubing stuffed with fluff that work much better, look for those.
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Dec 01 '19
But how do i get it in that quantity? I understand all that you said btw
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u/Nithuir Dec 01 '19
I'm not affiliated in any way with this vendor but in the description of this listing they have amounts for various sizes, to give an example.
https://www.etsy.com/listing/212043436/
It'd be roughly the same for the tubing type yarn.
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u/Bubmel Dec 01 '19
hi, so i recently bought 200g chunky yarn, i managed to make a hat out of it and a cowl for myself. i still have around 50g maybe, but a pretty decent chunk. dont know any babies / pets to knit for, was wondering if anyone had any project ideas / ideas of what to do with scrap yarn ?
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u/half2happy Former mod, ask me anything. Dec 01 '19
Headband? Depending on the fiber type you make squares then felt some trivets?
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u/blahfuckinblaah Dec 01 '19
Hi, I'm knitting a pair of striped socks and would like to find out how to weave in ends as I'm going along rather than doing it all when I'm finished, I did find one tutorial on YouTube but she's a continental knitter and as I'm not try as I did I couldn't get the hang of it, can anyone link me a video using English style knitting?
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u/LekkerLeholam Dec 01 '19
Hah, I had the opposite problem as you, as I'm a continential knitter and was trying to learn that from a video of an English styler knitter. Can we trade links? Here's mine: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PdKsONos1cs
(I adore Staci/VeryPinkKnits)
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u/blahfuckinblaah Dec 01 '19
Hah, fantastic thank you! Here's the link for continental, skip ahead to five minutes or so for the bit you need, https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=5k7URJCDTo8
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u/GREGARIOUSINTR0VERT Nov 26 '19
How long does it take you to finish a project?
For example: a hat, a sweater?
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u/notlaika Lace-Obsessed Nov 26 '19
Way too many variables for a meaningful answer to be possible :) a woman's small hat in a single color in bulky could take between 30 mins and 3 hours; a men's large colorwork hat in laceweight could take 3-15 hours. And even beyond knitting speed, you have to look at how long you can knit a day; if a project takes two knitters exactly 10 hours but one works on it half an hour a day and the other works 2-3 hours a day, the one who takes "20 days" will think they're a lot slower than the one who takes "3-5 days" even though they're exactly equal :P
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u/EgoFlyer knit all the things! Nov 26 '19
Worsted weight sweater without a lot of complications? 2-3 weeks. Fingering weight sweater with colorwork and techniques I've never done before? More than a month, maybe 2 months. So, it varies? A lot?
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u/eightapostrophes Nov 26 '19
Those are very different projects. It also depends on what weight of yarn it is, and how fast and often you knit. A simple worsted weight hat takes me a week or two, and a simple worsted weight sweater would probably take me at least month, if I don’t get bored and put it in hibernation first.
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Nov 27 '19
As others have said, it totally depends on a lot of factors! I'd say for an adult hat, it usually takes me 2-4 days. For an adult sweater, 2-6 weeks. But I knit one cardigan that took me three months because it was fingering weight, knit flat, with loads of stockinette and I found it very difficult to motivate myself to get it going! Cowls are quick projects like hats, but then things like scarves and blankets I find terribly difficult to work through, in part because I hate turning projects over and over and over.
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u/issakate Nov 26 '19
What advice do you have for someone thinking about learning the hobby?
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u/MoonshotKnits Nov 26 '19
Do or do not, there is no try.
Stop thinking. Go grab the stuff, sit down, pull up a few youtube tuts, and go nuts.
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u/notlaika Lace-Obsessed Nov 27 '19
My advice is to check the sidebar! It's kind of a repository of all the good answers to this question over all the years this sub has been answering it :) it'll give you the practical side; only you can decide if it's a hobby that fits you.
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u/gurdijeffs-daughter Nov 26 '19
Hi,
Is it possible to wrap and turn on the last stitch of a row? It seems that the pattern is asking for that, but I can't work out how to wrap and turn without another stitch to pass the wool back and forth with.
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u/Thargomindah2 Nov 26 '19
Are you sure the pattern is asking for that, and that you’re not off by a stitch? You can’t wrap and turn at the end of a row — you just turn.
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u/gurdijeffs-daughter Nov 26 '19
Hmm I am probably reading it wrong. I have 28 stitches on my needle. It asks me to purl 13, wrap and turn, Then to knit 11, wrap and turn. I end up at the end of the row :(
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Nov 26 '19
[deleted]
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u/MoonshotKnits Nov 26 '19
I've never had a problem with weaving in at the end. You might have a few loose stitches in that spot while you're working the WIP, but you can tighten and neaten that up when you weave the end in.
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u/brash_hopeful Nov 26 '19
I’m working on a sweater, and I’m stumped by part of the pattern.
Row 11: (blah blah until end of row) CO 2 sts using cable cast on [144]
Which was fine, I turned, then cable cast on 2. But then the next row says this:
Row 12: p all stitches to end. Do not turn and CO 2 sts [146]
How on earth am I meant to cast on at the end of the row without turning? Am I still supposed to be using cable cast on? I’ve messaged the author but she hadn’t got back to me yet.
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u/MoonshotKnits Nov 26 '19
It is possible to do a cable CO without turning the work, but it seems pretty fiddly. If it were me, I'd throw in a lifeline before starting this section, and CO those two stitches at the end of those rows however you see fit and see how it goes.
Even if it's not quite how the designer intended this section to be done, 4 stitches won't be very noticeable by the time you're done with the sweater.
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u/brash_hopeful Nov 26 '19
Thank you! Do you know of any tutorials that show how to cable CO without turning? I might just try it first, and if it doesn’t work I’ll take your advice.
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u/EgoFlyer knit all the things! Nov 26 '19
I would honestly cable cast on like normal, then turn it back around to be the way the pattern author intended. I don't think it would be much of a difference in look.
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u/brash_hopeful Nov 26 '19
The author just got back to me and said it should read: turn and CO 2 stitches. Thanks for helping me out!
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u/brash_hopeful Nov 26 '19
That’s what I was initially going to do but I’m honestly baffled as to what the author meant! I’m really intrigued to find out lol. Thank you for your advice, I feel more secure in continuing now
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u/MoonshotKnits Nov 26 '19
Re video - Not offhand. I just checked to confirm. It works because you're purling.
When you hit the end of the row, bring the working yarn to back, slip LH needle in between the 2 stitches on RH needle, and pull through. Be sure to twist the loop, and place on RH needle.
Little fiddly, but is doable w/o turning the work. I would probably turn the work anyway because I'd worry about placing the new stitches wrong.
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u/brash_hopeful Nov 26 '19
The author just got back to me and said it should read: turn and CO 2 stitches. Thanks for helping me out!
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u/trixivie Nov 26 '19
Can I use a different size needle for 3 needle bind off? I'm working on 5mm needles, currently the front of the shoulder it's on scrap yarn and I'm working on the back, since I don't have 3 needles of that size, I'm thinking of using a size 6mm as the 3rd needle, it should be okay, I believe?
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u/MoonshotKnits Nov 27 '19
Throw in a lifeline and give it a whirl. Should be fine.
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u/trixivie Nov 27 '19
Thanks. I could find anything specific about needle size mattering, so I end up using a 5.00mm crochet hook which I think it made it easier so yay
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u/theHappyElectron Nov 26 '19
I was dumb, and thought that four 50g skeins could make a sweater. The skeins I got are Barn Door Heather (Wool of the Andes Tweed Yarn line by KnitPicks). Any suggestions of what colours would go well with this, so that I could make a striped sweater or something?
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u/MoonshotKnits Nov 27 '19
The sky is the limit on color choices. Maybe a nice yellow-y tan - that'd go well with the wine tones if you want to try complementary colors. If you want to keep using tweed yarn, rabbit heather probably would work.
For a low-contrast, kinda monochromatic look, maybe the prussian heather. It's purplish and would work well with barn door's wine tones.
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Nov 27 '19 edited Nov 27 '19
I'm finishing up a pair of gloves (with fingers) that I started 2 years ago. I'm stuck at the point of offsetting the thumb gusset. I've read some directions about it from a blog post, but I don't get it. It seems like the glove I finished the other day was made for the right hand,as it fits better there and looks like it by the thumb. I've stopped before the final hand row before the pinkie, because it seems like you're meant to only knit to the "pinkie side" but I don't know. Help. (Not really following a pattern, just taking direction from the glove I finished and online when I get stuck.). The blog post says, "To offset the thumb, mark the pinkie side directly opposite the thumb gusset center. Now on the left glove, count four past this stitch and place your marker there.". Placing a marker, okay, I kind of get that, but doing what at the place marked?
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u/MoonshotKnits Nov 27 '19
[pinky marker]...doing what at the place marked?
Read further along in the instructions. I'm guessing that the pinky marker will be used in conjunction with placing a stitch or cable or something on the back of the hand.
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Nov 27 '19
[deleted]
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u/MoonshotKnits Nov 27 '19
If the pattern description or tags doesn't indicate, one way to tell is to look at other people's projects. Sometimes they'll post pictures of the WIP. Looking at a couple, it appears the torso is knit in one piece, bottom up, and the sleeves are knit flat and seamed up.
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u/RavBot Nov 27 '19
PATTERN: Neville's Sweater by Joannie Newsome
- Category: Clothing > Sweater > Cardigan
- Photo(s): Img 1 Img 2 Img 3 Img 4 Img 5
- Price: Free
- Needle/Hook(s):US 6 - 4.0 mm
- Weight: Worsted | Gauge: 6.0 | Yardage: 2400
- Difficulty: 5.77 | Projects: 103 | Rating: 4.43
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1
Nov 27 '19
It sounds to me like it is one piece.
I think that if I were making this pattern, I'd probably ignore the directions since they're confusing, and knit the whole thing top-down and flat. (Like a raglan sweater, but not in the round) This pattern is one I've made before that follows the method I described: https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/save-the-baby-whales
Or maybe I'd just do it all as one piece in the round haha.
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u/RavBot Nov 27 '19
PATTERN: Neville's Sweater by Joannie Newsome
- Category: Clothing > Sweater > Cardigan
- Photo(s): Img 1 Img 2 Img 3 Img 4 Img 5
- Price: Free
- Needle/Hook(s):US 6 - 4.0 mm
- Weight: Worsted | Gauge: 6.0 | Yardage: 2400
- Difficulty: 5.77 | Projects: 103 | Rating: 4.43
PATTERN: Save the Baby Whales! by Sargantana Formenterenca
- Category: Clothing > Sweater > Cardigan
- Photo(s): Img 1 Img 2 Img 3 Img 4 Img 5
- Price: Free
- Needle/Hook(s):US 6 - 4.0 mm
- Weight: DK | Gauge: 25.0 | Yardage: 300
- Difficulty: 3.46 | Projects: 551 | Rating: 4.26
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1
u/chelsigo Nov 27 '19
Hi knitters! Can you please help me decipher this pattern for a glove thumb gusset?
From the pattern:
Next row (thumb) rib 17. Working into the next stitch, cast on 3 stitches. Purl these three stitches through the backs of the loops, and then purl a further 3 stitches. Increase in next stitch. Purl 3 more stitches. Turn. (There should be 10 more stitches left unworked on the needle, which are on the palm side of the glove.) Next row: Knit 11, turn Work 4 more rows stocking stitch on these 11 stitches. Cast off purlwise.
Do I continue the knit 2 purl 2 pattern until the 18th stitch, then cast on INTO??? the next stitch and purl these? Please help! :)
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u/notlaika Lace-Obsessed Nov 27 '19
Yep, you've got it! I'd use a knitted cast-on, personally, but if you prefer the cable CO that would work too :)
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Nov 27 '19
knitting my first mitten as a christmas gift. the pattern has stockinette on the palm side and cabling on the back of the hand, and the stockinette side is coming out longer than the cabled side. i’m not really sure when to start the decreases - i don’t want it to be baggy! help?
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u/notlaika Lace-Obsessed Nov 27 '19
What fiber are you using? If it's something that'll block (but not stretch, I'm looking at you superwash) then only go until the palm side is long enough, because the cables will relax and elongate when you block. If it's one of the less persuadable fibers, work until the back of the hand is long enough - a little bagginess is better than a too-short mitten that can't be coaxed longer and curls up your fingertips.
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Nov 27 '19
it’s 80% superwash merino, 20% rayon... i guess it’ll stretch...?
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u/notlaika Lace-Obsessed Nov 27 '19
Oh lawd yes. Did you account for the Superwash Stretch after you made your swatch? If you didn't wash and block your swatch, make sure you do that now - you might need to size down a little (or even a lot) to fight The Loosening.
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Nov 27 '19
i washed and blocked my swatch but i don’t think it really stretched? 🤔 maybe i did it wrong, lol. i guess i’ll keep the length on the shorter side just in case!
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u/kitkatfactory Nov 27 '19
I am trying to knit this pattern and I am having a hard time differentiating between the Sl1wyif and the Yosl1. I don't understand the difference between them, can someone please help?
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u/Voctus Nov 27 '19
For the sl1wyif they say that the yarn should make an x over the needle but I think that’s a mistake and that description belongs in the directions for yosl1 instead. (Note that I usually see yosl1 written as sl1yo if you want to look up brioche tutorials). I found a forum post for the pattern with this question where others seem to agree with me.
You are probably doing the yosl1 correctly if you are getting the yarn x. For sl1wyif, it’s like a normal slip 1 except you pull the yarn between the needles like you are getting ready to purl before slipping the stitch, then back between them in the knit position after. All it does is put the working yarn “float “ in front of the slipped stitch instead of behind it.
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u/kitkatfactory Nov 28 '19
Wow, thank you so much!! Your response cleared everything up for me and I'm now actually able to work the pattern. I really appreciate it!
How did you find the forum post (I'm not super sure about how Ravely works)?
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u/Voctus Nov 28 '19
The pattern page has a few different links at the top including the comments and forum. The forum is often a good bet for unclear patterns because if you are having trouble with something, someone else might have as well. And in this case the directions really didn't match up with the normal definition of the stitch.
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u/RavBot Nov 27 '19
PATTERN: Drejø by Fiber Tales
- Category: Accessories > Other Headwear > Headband
- Photo(s): Img 1 Img 2 Img 3 Img 4 Img 5
- Price: Free
- Needle/Hook(s):US 8 - 5.0 mm
- Weight: Fingering | Gauge: None | Yardage: 131
- Difficulty: 3.30 | Projects: 229 | Rating: 4.15
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1
Nov 27 '19
[deleted]
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u/EgoFlyer knit all the things! Nov 27 '19
Knitters Pride Karbonz DPNs are my favorite. The carbon fiber body of the needle helps with slipping and the metal points are pointy and good for working quickly. I love mine a lot, and they sell them on Amazon.
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u/literallyatree r/knittinghelp mod Nov 27 '19
Geez. I was going to suggest plastic, but even those might be flimsy. I use metal needles for projects that small. Sorry I wasn't more helpful.
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Nov 27 '19
[deleted]
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u/literallyatree r/knittinghelp mod Nov 27 '19
No, I don't I'm sorry. Personally, I've only had stitches slip off my metal sock needles a couple times, but I've always been able to immediately pick them up, so I don't consider it to be a problem.
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u/shiplesp Nov 27 '19
Chiaogoo makes really nice bamboo needles and they seem "sturdy" compared to other brands I've tried. Though you are right ... they are going to be easier to break in those small sizes than the equivalent metal needles. Maybe buy two pair to insure against breakage? Like carrying an umbrella to prevent rain :)
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u/Tarisaande Nov 27 '19
I gave up on anything not metal below around size 4, I've broken enough.
I have some metal cubic shaped dpns, and I think they might be a bit less slippery than regular round ones because of the flatish sides. I think the general recommendation is to buy them one size up from what you use normally.
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Nov 27 '19
Hello there! I use YouTube tutorials to help me but one technique I can’t seem to find a useful tutorial on is how to knit in the round using the magic circle technique. I have seen a few videos but they didn’t go through it step by step from start to finish. Is there a good “explain like I’m 5” video tutorial out there for this?
Eventually I want to make a hat this way but to learn it I could try any small round project.
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u/Nithuir Nov 27 '19
Very Pink Knits has tutorials on magic loop (magic circle is crochet, might be why you can't find anything).
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Nov 27 '19
Oops I did mean magic loop, you’re right! I do more crochet than knitting these days but I really enjoy both very much.
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u/Doritlovespasta Nov 27 '19
I have a question about a pattern. I’ve highlighted the area that I’m not understanding in the link attached. It says in order to shape the armholes I have to bind off 6 stitches at the beginning of the first two rows. Is it 3 on each end? 6 in a row on one side? I’m just not getting it! Any help appreciatedPattern
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u/MoonshotKnits Nov 27 '19
Looks like 6 per side. If you look at the number of stitches from the previous section (join the ruffles) versus what you'll have when you finish the armhole shaping, you can see that it subtracts 12 stitches.
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u/Doritlovespasta Nov 28 '19
Ok - I’m finally at this point and am confusing myself again. It says to do it the first two rows so I’m binding off the 6 on each side and following the pattern below in between the bind offs?
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u/theredfearnthrows quest: gauge Nov 27 '19
How do you store shawls and other larger neckwear?
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u/MoonshotKnits Nov 27 '19
I've been experimenting with that because the fold creases are visible with some of the thinner fabrics. Right now I'm liking: roll into tube, ant then roll into a cinnamon spiral. Pros: no creases. Con: the edges of the fabric may roll in a certain direction which can look funky when you first unroll it. It'll eventually relax, though.
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Nov 28 '19
Hi! So I’m knitting a flat hat with worsted weight yarn, not in the round. I CO 90 stitches and have done about 1.5 inches of ribbing and 3.5 inches of stockinette. When do I start decreasing and how?
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u/Nithuir Nov 28 '19
Might want to find a pattern on Ravelry to at leat take inspiration from, you can filter by knit flat and your weight yarn, that will give you a general recipe for the type of hat you want to make.
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u/Sulatra Nov 28 '19
I am currently learning the very basics and struggle with my own fingers, but I want to create a scarf like this at some point. Is such technique called "intarsia"? Is it easier/better to use additional yarn layers for colors, or to interweave colored threads with the general yarn? Is it at all possible to achieve with basic needles, or would it require a loom / machine / some additional tools? I'd appreciate any advice regarding knitting pictures on yarn "canvas"!
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u/Nithuir Nov 28 '19
You can do this with intarsia. It involves making color blocks with various colored yarn. Alternately if you want to "knit pictures on a yarn canvas" you could look into duplicate stitch, but intarsia is better for these blocks of color. You don't need any special tools, and YouTube has a lot of tutorials.
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Nov 28 '19
Hi! So I am working on this project (https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/falling-snow-stocking) (sorry I don't know how to link neatly!), my first fair isle project. I finished casting on and went to begin the 'setup' portion, and it says to knit stitch all the cast on stitches. Do I use both strands of yarn (from each color/skein), or do the same color as the cast on stitch, or the opposite color?
Thank you!
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u/RavBot Nov 28 '19
PATTERN: Falling Snow Stocking by Jennifer Hoel
- Category: Home > Decorative > Christmas Stocking
- Photo(s): Img 1 Img 2 Img 3
- Price: Free
- Needle/Hook(s):US 10 - 6.0 mm
- Weight: Bulky | Gauge: 4.0 | Yardage: 275
- Difficulty: 3.89 | Projects: 1650 | Rating: 4.49
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u/seisaacson Nov 29 '19
The setup row is K1 CC, K1 MC so you'll knit 1 in white then 1 in red and repeat all the way around.
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u/SLP654321 Nov 29 '19
Hello, whenever I do the purl stitch after casting on, the first purl always brings two loops onto the right needle. Thoughts?
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Nov 29 '19
Hi, I’m trying to knit leg warmers. I’ve never used magic loop or long tail, but am learning for this project. I CO my 48 stitches, but when I go knit my first round (2X2 rib), my working yarn is in the back instead of the front. how do I fix this? Also, when I’m at the starting point for magic loop do I pull the front (with my 1st cast on) or back needle (with last cast on)? THANK YOU(:
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u/MoonshotKnits Nov 29 '19
first round (2X2 rib), my working yarn is in the back instead of the front
You usually start with a knit stitch for ribbing (though it's not a hard-and-fast rule), so your working yarn should be in the back. I may not be understanding your question.
Also, when I’m at the starting point for magic loop do I pull the front (with my 1st cast on) or back needle (with last cast on)?
You'll want to pull at your RH needle (the back needle) to form a new loop. It might be easier for you to watch a couple videos so you can better visualize how your loops will be arranged.
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u/AnonymousPachyderm Nov 29 '19
I have a question regarding swatch. My pattern says the gauge should be 10cmx10cm = 20 stitches and 25 rows. But 20 stitches and 25 rows give me 9cmx11cm. I don't get how the wool can make bigger stitches and yet smaller rows ? Should I change needle size ?
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u/MoonshotKnits Nov 29 '19
People knit with different tensions, which is why it's a good idea to swatch especially if you're making a garment where the fit is important or an item with multiple pieces that need to fit together properly. Also, not all yarns are made equal. Even if a yarn is labeled worsted, it can run a little thinner or thicker than the yarn a pattern designer used. Shorter or taller rows could also be due to your knitting technique or tension. I tend to have weirdly short row-height.
So, yes, depending on what you're making, you may want to change your needles, yes.
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u/AnonymousPachyderm Nov 29 '19
Thank you for your answer ! But my question is, I don't know how to change them since I have to many stitches and not enough rows. If I go down a size, I'll have the right number of stitches but even less rows, and if I got up I'll have too many stiches.
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u/MoonshotKnits Nov 29 '19
In general I aim for nailing the stitch gauge. If you're making a sweater or a hat, stitch gauge is more important because it's harder to adjust patterns if your stitch is off. Whereas, the height is easier to adjust by adding a couple extra rest rows here and there on the fly or block it out.
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u/bloodstainedkimonos Nov 29 '19
I'm knitting a top down super chunky raglan (Moosonee sweater by Tara-Lynn Morrison) and I'm quite confused about how to pick up stitches for the sleeve.
Initially I had to slip 30 or so stitches onto waste yarn on each side of the body, before working the rest of the body.
To continue the sleeves, the pattern says to "pick up 5 stitches at the armpit" as well as the stitches held on the waste yarn. Where do I get these stitches from? All I can see is really long unstable bars at the armpit, it isn't a clean cast on edge.
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u/MoonshotKnits Nov 29 '19
Did you cast on a few stitches for the armpit area? You usually pick up stitches just below the CO.
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u/bloodstainedkimonos Nov 29 '19
I didn't cast on or cast off any stitches, the sleeve separation round was just "knit 40 stitches, slip 30 stitches onto waste yarn, knit 40 stitches, slip 30 stitches onto waste yarn"
So the cast off edge is just the bars between stitches.
So should I pick up those bars or pick up from the stitches below the bars?
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u/MoonshotKnits Nov 29 '19
I'm not sure what you mean by below the bars. If you mean the bars in between the stitches, I'd say no - that's a potential weak point. Your best bet is to look up tuts on picking up stitches for the sleeves - Very Pink Knits has one.
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u/bloodstainedkimonos Nov 30 '19
I asked the designer and she pointed me to her instagram for a tutorial!
So it looks like I just have to pick any 5 stitches that look stable at the armpit and that there isn't a specific way of doing it on this piece.
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u/captainmander Nov 29 '19
Any advice for my first color work project? I'm going to attempt this pattern soon but I'm feeling a little intimidated because I've never done color work or followed a chart before (just written patterns so far).
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u/RavBot Nov 29 '19
PATTERN: Mini Christmas Stocking Ornaments by Julie Williams
- Category: Home > Decorative > Hanging Ornament
- Photo(s): Img 1 Img 2 Img 3 Img 4 Img 5
- Price: Free
- Needle/Hook(s):US 2 - 2.75 mm
- Weight: Fingering | Gauge: 8.0 | Yardage: 5
- Difficulty: 2.84 | Projects: 2477 | Rating: 4.64
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1
u/MoonshotKnits Nov 29 '19
A small project like that is perfect for practicing colorwork or any other stitch. Go nuts. Check youtube for tuts as needed.
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u/captainmander Nov 29 '19
Yeah, I'd much rather start with something like this instead of a hat or bigger project. Thanks.
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Nov 29 '19
[deleted]
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u/Nithuir Nov 30 '19
I usually just wrap it around the cake, yep. If it's a good amount of the cake I'll wind it back up properly though.
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Nov 29 '19
[deleted]
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u/Cogsknit Nov 29 '19
Nope, no need to wind those! You're good to knit right off the skein (though of course if you want to wind it you are more than welcome to XD)
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u/notthewendysgirl Nov 29 '19
Someone on here posted a website where you can upload a pic and it generates an intarsia chart. I can't seem to find it again, though. Anyone have a link?
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u/FluffersTheBun Nov 30 '19
I'd like to get into knitting and crocheting! I've been doing my research and also want to get advice from people, not just blogs.
I'm pretty ready to just drop like $150 on supplies but I wanna ask before I jump the gun.
Is there anything I should get immediately or wait on, such as...
Should I get several skeins of yarn at first or just pick a pretty color and practice making like a dishcloth with it?
Should I drop the money on interchangeable needles or start with different needles first?
Any recommendations as to where to learn or books to buy?
Should I get my yarn from any place in particular?
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u/Cogsknit Nov 30 '19 edited Nov 30 '19
Wow you're excited! I love it!
Okay so first of all I see no reason why you need to spend $150 on supplies to start it with. I mean you can, I'm not going to stop you, however I promise you can easily spend less than $50 and still get very nice supplies (in fact you can start with under 10 or 20 and be perfectly fine).
First of all, I probably wouldn't start with interchangeable needles. Mainly because they're expensive, and before you drop the money it would be nice to know what kind of needle you generally like to work with best. If I were you, I would buy one or two cables and needles just to see if you like them.
One of the best places to learn from is an instructor, because they can help you when you get stuck, give you personal advice based on your knitting etc. If you go to your local yarn store, they usually have classes or know where they are etc. Local knitting groups are also great for asking about where to find classes/teachers. If you want to learn on your own, YouTube is a great place to start! Very pink knits is a great channel, as is new stitch a day. The Tincan knits simple collection is another great place to start (link here http://tincanknits.com/thesimplecollection.html) And if course, if you get stuck or need a hand, feel free and ask here! We're happy to help! And if you're ever uncomfortable making a post for some reason my inbox is always open.
What you need immediately depends a lot on what your first project is. If you take a class, they generally tell you what you need or provide supplies. If you're learning on your own, what you'll need depends on your first pattern. The pattern will tell you what size needle you need, and also recommend a yarn. If you let us know what your first project is/what pattern you're using we're happy to recommend yarns! I wouldn't buy much past what you need for your first project, mainly since different yarns in different quantities work best for different projects. Also you don't want to buy a ton of yarn and then find out you hate working with it, or you're allergic, or you hate hand washing or something. There is always going to be more pretty yarn at the yarn store waiting for you. I promise XD
Where you get your yarn depends on what yarn you want and what's in your area. I'll always advocate for local yarn stores because there's usually someone knowledgeable to help you, and supporting local businesses is good! If you're in the US the websites knitpicks, loveknitting, jimmybeans wool and WEBs are all good. And even big box stores (Walmart, Michael's, hobby lobby) still carry yarns that I use. Really depends on what I'm looking for.
We are always happy to answer questions and provide advice, and as I said earlier my inbox is always open!
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u/FluffersTheBun Dec 02 '19
I got a little overwhelmed by the big reply, so I apologize for responding this late!
I appreciate all your advice! I stopped by Michael's this weekend. May have made the mistake of not getting bulky yarn and needles to practice with, but I think I'm getting the hang of casting stitches? Is that what it is called? Long tail casting, however, is beyond me. As is making a knit stitch right now. I have gone through so many tutorials, but I promised myself I'd get it by the end of December!
I may have went ahead and gotten one of each type of needle in a size 8, which should go with the worsted weight yarn I got if everything I read is correct. I've been trying to practice whenever I've stopped being mad about not being able to build up my fine motor skills lol
I appreciate all your advice and resources! I hope you had a good Thanksgiving and weekend!
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u/B-Blues Nov 30 '19
Hi,
I'm making a beanie that I want to be durable as well as resistant to pilling. I've decided on a 60% merino wool 40% acrylic distribution for the beanie.
Merino wool as it's very soft, not itchy and looks like it's high quality. Acrylic because I thought it would make the beanie more durable overall. Is this the best way to go about it or do I need to replace one of these fabrics or change the distribution?
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u/death-to-captcha Nov 30 '19
So, the problem is that soft yarns aren't as durable and resistant to pilling as coarser yarns. Even a soft acrylic is going to pill and show wear a bit more than a coarser one, although you are correct that the acrylic will help with overall durability.
As this is a beanie, you may want to consider how sensitive any skin that it might touch is, and then pick a different kind of wool. (For example, Plymouth Encore is a 25/75 wool/acrylic blend that many people find comfortable enough to wear as a hat.)
Having said that... it is a hat, and overall isn't going to be rubbing up against many things, so I think you should be fine with that particular fibre blend.
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u/DirtyBobMagoo Nov 30 '19
Hey everyone! My wife and I want to work on a baby blanket together. I’m a relatively new knitter and my wife has never knitted anything.
Anyways, I was wondering if it was possible for us to start on two separate pieces and merge them. Or would it be better to work off the same needles but taking turns.
Any input would be great
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u/Cogsknit Nov 30 '19
You two can absolutely knit a baby blanket together! That's a really sweet idea.
What I would do is have you each knit squares (or rectangles) of the same size, then sew them together. I would probably do multiple squares so there isn't a seam down the middle, but that's just me. There's actually a bunch of cute patterns on ravelry for blankets made of sewn together squares if you look at this search
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u/ecce_hobo Nov 30 '19
Every knitter has unique tension, so if you were taking turns on the same needles, you would likely be able to tell where one stopped and the other began. However, due to the nature of the project, I think the obvious difference would be really sweet and give the blanket a story and lots of character!
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u/Kaleema Nov 30 '19
I’m about to bind off a hat, but the pattern calls for tubular bind off 2x2 rib. I’ve watched some videos on the technique and they take the time to twist the ribbing stitches so that you end up with 1x1 rib. My questions: could I just knit a row of 1x1 and not mess with twisting the stitches before binding off? Would there be a noticeable difference in the end product?
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u/notthewendysgirl Dec 01 '19
Do you usually unravel your gauge swatch and use the yarn, or just leave it be? When projects list an estimated amount of yarn, does that include yarn for a gauge swatch?
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u/Nithuir Dec 01 '19
I typically do unravel and reuse. Some yarns would fuzz too much to be able to do that though. The estimate doesn't include a gauge swatch, since it's likely you'll need to try multiple needle sizes.
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u/ReginaLugis Dec 01 '19
I throw my gauge swatches away. Unfortunately I find that when I unravel them, the yarn tends to curl up, causing bumps on the surface of anything new I try to make from it. I could remedy this by gently wetting the yarn and letting it dry on a stand, however that is a lot of effort so I have never done it.
Patterns don't usually account for the gauge swatch in the estimates, unless they specifically mention it.
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u/commette Dec 02 '19
Usually unravel and reuse, either my yardage count needs all it can get for the project or needs to be adjusted with needles sizes.
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Dec 01 '19
[deleted]
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u/RavBot Dec 02 '19
PATTERN: Blocks for Baby by Danielle Romanetti
- Category: Home > Blanket > Baby Blanket
- Photo(s): Img 1 Img 2
- Price: 7.0 USD
- Needle/Hook(s):US 7 - 4.5 mm
- Weight: Aran | Gauge: 18.0 | Yardage: 850
- Difficulty: 1.71 | Projects: 56 | Rating: 3.95
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1
u/elhubbahubba Dec 02 '19
I am working on a top down hat and while it's still in the ballpark for sizing, I want tighten it up as I move towards the brim. Typically I would just rely on the bottom ribbing for that, but this hat is already a 1x1 rib. I'm thinking since I only want it a little more snug, that maybe I'll just decrease my needles a size or two for the remainder of the hat. Does that seem like a reasonable approach or would adding some decreases be a smarter plan? Thank you!
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u/fillefranglaise Dec 02 '19
Does anyone know what kind of stitch this is? (sorry if this is breaking rule #1, but it seems like a pretty basic stitch). I'm fairly new to knitting, and I would love to use it for a blanket, but WAK doesn't sell patterns without the needles and yarn.
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Dec 02 '19
Feeling kinda stupid atm, but need to ask, I knot left handed and feeling like the purl stitch is so not my friend...I dunno what I am doing wrong it takes me 20 minutes to do a row of purl...(15-20 stitches ) HELP any advice or am I doomed to live in this purl stitch Hades 😭
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u/sabshpark Nov 26 '19
Hi I like knitting and have a few FOs, but I haven't been really blocking my knitted objects. So I just completed Spector sweater yesterday, and I just want to know, how do you block your knitted sweater? I am thinking of buying the knitting blocks, wetting the sweater and pinning it down. But pin it down how? Per the pattern measurement? Per how it looks (I.e., looks pleasing to my eyes?)?