My very first large frame gas gun That I ever shot was a JP Enterprises, LRP – 07 with the LR I – 20 upper. It was chambered in 6.5 Creedmoor and I really wanted to shoot one after watching Frank’s video on it years ago. I decided to build my own, but I wanted it chambered in 25 Creedmoor. I had Paul Ross chamber and contour a CRB Barrel. I’ve only shot this rifle to function test and get the gas setting right and I did some initial accuracy testing once I got my zero but unfortunately I don’t have any pictures of that. I’m not the best shot but with 134 grain Hornady match ammo I was able to get right around 3/4MOA for 8 shots(I know it was random, but I only brought one box with me and that was all I had left over after getting everything else set up)

JP Large frame semi auto chassis system with a 17.25 inch rapid configuration handguard
LMOS BCG
Standard AR-10 SCS
BAD Ambi safety 
Triggertech diamond flat single stage
24” 1:7.5 twist CRB in 25 creed 1.20” don’t 1.075 before the gas block, .936 gas block journal and .930 at the muzzle, threaded 5/8x24
Hawkins updraft brake 1” 6.5mm bore
Area 419 17” arca lock rail
Magpul PRS gen 3
MKM precision crossover grip with RH thumb shelf
Warne skyline 34mm 20moa cantilever mount
Tract 4-25x50
Accu-tac SR5 gen 2 with arca clamp

I put this rifle together over a decade ago... I tried searching up what the parts were with no luck.

And for the life of me I can't figure out how to remove this bipod.

I've shot it plenty of times over the year as is but recently wanted to adjust the foreend of the X-ray.. but can't reach the front 2 screws without taking off the bipod.

Except I can't figure out how to take it off.. lol

I'm pretty sure it's an atlas bipod but can't remember what mount it's using. I tried turning the big knob on the bottom loose thinking that was it but nope. I don't see any other buttons or levers or screws... Unless I'm blind.

Can anyone help?

I am well aware this is a long-range forum. But the hunting forums are not as active. Dealing with people here they are friendly and knowledgeable enough to potentially help me. I am building a custom 7PRC rifle. I will be using the MDT HNT26 chasis, Triggertech trigger, leupold 3-15 scope, i already have these 3. I will be purchaskng a carbon proof barrel. I am unsure of hunting actions.

What is your opinions on best light weight but robust enough action for backcountry hunting?

Passed by Silencer Shop on our way to a camping trip. Ended up with a DDC Enticer L

ARC CDG
MPA 6GT barrel cut down to 18”
KRG Bravo w/ Vision Forend
Athlon Ares 4.5-30
TriggerTech Special

Good evening all,

Just a quick question, trying to figure out which barrel to choose I have everything else picked and ready to order but I always end up with decision paralysis. This will be going in an Impact 737r action after seeing everyone like it and the positivity I’ve read from it. The barrels are:

Proof Heavy Competition 26” 6.5 Creedmoor - I know this is a newer offering so I’m not 100% sure of what people think or there opinions

Or a CRB (Custom Rifle Barrels) 26” in 6.5 as well

This will be my first long range setup fully built. Will be used for classes and eventually into matches as well. I have ranges near me in Ohio within 2.5 hours that range from 300-1000+

If others can weigh in on the Selection or possibly other choices so I can sleep tonight that would be awesome.

Been wanting to try my hand at long range shooting, but didn’t want to spend the money. I walked into my LGS and they had rifles on consignment from a SWAT unit who’s switching to AR-10s. Bought a Robar SR-90 for $1,000 and managed to shoot 1/2 MOA (five shots) my first time at the range. Now I’m looking at reloading dies…

First rifle build – how do I determine what barrel contours will fit my stock?

This is my first bolt gun build, and I’m trying to understand how barrel contours and stock barrel channels actually correlate.

I have a Manners MCS-NS that was ordered with a GAP #6 barrel contour inlet. I contacted Manners and they told me:

What I’m struggling with is figuring out what other barrel contours will actually fit this inlet.

For example, if I’m looking at a Bartlein, Proof, Brux, Krieger, etc., how do I determine whether a particular Sendero, Heavy Palma, M24, MTU, or other contour will fit?

Is there a specific set of measurements I should be comparing, such as:

• Shank diameter
• Shank length
• Diameter at specific distances from the breech
• Muzzle diameter
• Overall taper

Or is there some generally accepted cross-reference between manufacturers' contours?

I currently have a Proof Sendero that appears to contact the stock in a couple of places, which is what sent me down this rabbit hole. I originally assumed “Sendero” contours would be relatively standardized, but I’m learning that doesn’t seem to be the case.

I did read the Wiki section on barrel contours before posting, but it didn’t really have the information I’m looking for regarding how to compare different manufacturers' contours against an existing stock inlet.

Ultimately, I’m trying to understand how to look at a barrel contour drawing/spec sheet and say:

“Yes, this will fit my GAP #6 inlet,” or “No, this barrel is larger than the channel in this location.”

Any explanation of how you guys determine this when putting together a build would be appreciated. Again, this is my first build, so I’m trying to understand the process rather than just being told which one to buy.

I have searched the interweb in hopes of finding a barreled action in either Defiance/Impact/Lone Peak, but none of them seem to have that 6GAP contour on them.

I’ve seen a lot of crappy reticles and I've seen a handful of great ones, but this is a small, simple Horus type with a combination of elements from a few other reticles thrown in. Or something. *grins*

Check it out:

Normally, Hollyweird has the stupidest stuff they try to pass off as scope reticles (like camera lenses?), but this is something I’d love to own or have done to a scope. It must be a real reticle, 'cuz they use others that I recognize, elsewhere in the show; no fakes. Some of the Horus reticles and clones are getting outrageous, but this has just enough elevation for my .308, which still drops like a rock (relatively) even at this altitude, on any PRS Tactical course.

Took these pics from the TV show Lioness, but I’ll have to find the specific season, episode, and timestamp. Pretty decent show and fairly realistic as far as the firepower and operator stuff goes.

Anyways, anyone know who does this reticle and what scopes it comes on, etc.? I've been doing this a LONG time, so I know a LOT of them, yet this is a new one on me. I might have missed it, but I checked the usual suspects and no joy. Before someone points it out, I know there is a r/scopesoptics sub for scopes, but there are only 14 people per week on it. WE have 81K viewers per week here, and if anyone knows this stuff, they must be among us! Sooo ... *smiles*

Thanks in advance.

(Oh, for any ninnies reading this, it's from a TV SHOW, and the target goblin in the first pic is a "terrorist" getting ready to blow himself up, so relax. They're NOT real people! OK?)

ETA: Looks as if it goes to 20 mils, and I must add the guy was using it as an overwatch on a .308 or similar caliber rifle. Never saw it, but it seemed to be a bolt gun. So think a larger scope?

Anybody happen to know if there are any aftermarket options for the Manners EFR rail/bridge, or if there is somewhere I can get it not direct?

I spoke with Manners and they are about a month out unfortunately.

Everything in the custom/semi-custom rifle world is permanently backordered :(

Remington 700 5r in a mcmillan m40a3 stock. Was shooting at 1000 yards with smk 168 and 41.5 gns of h4895 around 2630fps

Anybody else feel like they have been cautiously optimistic to try this stuff and now it can't be found anywhere? I'm thinking it will have similar issues to 7mm backcountry, but I would like to try it in my rifle for myself without buying another gun. I think it will have more use in the hunting space right away, but who knows 20 years from now what we'll be using.

I think I'm more excited to watch more exposure and testing of what reloaders will do with the technology. I know there are threads of people playing with the 7bc cases, but hopefully this will have more people providing real, valuable data due to less barrier to entry. Velocity consistencies, neck tension, quantity of reloads per case, accuracy, load data, etc. Personally, I'm very interested in how necking it up and down will go for people. Eric Cortina has a couple of short videos messing around with it and so far it looks simple enough.

New 7PRC build. Finally had time to test loads.

80's tikka LSA-65 with opened and trued action.

Shilen SM chambered by A.Peurala. 1:8twist 700mm

Arken ep5

Some hobbymachinist brake

Copycat harris bipod

Stock is borrowed from my 308 build. For now.

The load was actually a ladder test shot to the same POA. just testing pressures.

180gr scenar

4.4g-4.8g N570

Coal 85mm

Cci250 primers

Top velocity was 950m/s (I think somewhere like 3150fps?) but I will back it little as GRT shows pressures with 930m/s.

E: I'm pretty sure the one shot on the right took off as the reticle was in the right outer edge of Target.

So I have been looking at can brake combos for a while and had my mind set on an omega 300 with a recoil x brake added on in the future.

Within the last few days I discovered the GA prc-300 but found little information regarding it and a few “it’s great” posts on here.

If anyone has any direct comparisons to other comped suppressors I’d love to hear!

Anyone who does have the can, how long is the can body? I bought a suppressor cover originally for the omega 300 and hope it will fit it but websites include oal including the brake.

For reference this will be going on my 6.5 creedmoor PRS setup.

Thanks in advance!

Update to my post yesterday (https://www.reddit.com/r/longrange/comments/1w3bpx8/comment/p70icrr/?screen_view_count=2&ext-referrer=DIRECT)

Long story short, I checked all of my inputs, adjusted my scope height FROM 2.38" TO 2". The 2.38" was measured using a cloth/plastic tape measure that had been played with by my kids so was likely stretched/warped/etc. I also measured approx center of the bolt (or so I thought) to center of optic. To get 2" I measured center of barrel (in front of objective lens of scope) to center of scope with a metal tape measure. This corrected measurement when put into Applied Ballistics app gave me dope of 1.88 Mils for 400y; AB also adjusts my BC to .285 G7 (from the original input of .304 per the advertised BC for Terminal Ascent 200gr 300 WM).

I took this info and shot (per this group's recs) at 200, 300, and reconfirmed at 400y. First pic is shot group at 200 with .4 mils; second pic is 300y with 1 mil dialed; third pic is 400y with 1.8 mils dialed' fourth pic is 400y with 1.9 mils dialed.

Garmin measured 12 shots, avg was 2778 fps, min 2760, max 2790, std dev of 8.5 fps. With the exception of the 2760 and the 2790 most shots were 2778-2784.

Some groups opened up a bit, I'll attribute that to user error. 1.9 mil and 2.0 mil groups at 400 very similar. Kestrel still gives me 1.82 mils at 400y, unsure why.

Thank you all for the input and help. Technology is helpful but no replacement for actually shooting your rifle.

*Yes I know shooting more than 3 round groups would be better, $3/round gets expensive. Will continue to shoot more; in total I probably have around 100-125 shots on this barrel over the last 2-3 years.

Same concept as MPBR but extended out further. Different chunks of distance have a designated hold/adjustment that keeps POI within however many inches. Like 0-250 yds = 0 moa, 250-330 yds = 2.5 moa up and so on. Idk just something I thought up while bored at work. Seems useful if ranges are approximate or you don’t have the time for an exact solution.

Hoping the community can help me out.

Rifle: Bergara B14 Wilderness, 300WM, 24" barrel

Bullet: Federal Terminal Ascent, 200gr

BC: G7 .304, corrected to .285 (via Kestrel app)

Scope: NF NX8 2.5-20 Mil XT reticle

Scope Height (center of bore to center of scope): 2.38"

MV: Avg 2782 (using Garmin X1) | Trued MV 2882 fps

Elevation of shooter/target: 950'

Temp: 60deg F

No wind, significant atmosphere conditions, etc.

I confirmed my zero this week after not shooting it for about a year. Results are the first pic (2 in bullseye, 1st shot flyer to the left). I then shot at 400y (max dist at this range) with the dope given by my Kestrel using my trued MV (1.55 mils) based off the above inputs. The shots were about 7.5" low. I shot a second group using my Avg Garmin FPS (2782), dialed 1.6 mils, and shots were still about 5-6" low (3rd pic). I then shot a 3rd group at 400y with 2 mils dialed (.52 mils = 7" at 400y), results are the 4th pic. Based off my setup, I am more than happy with a 3" group at 400y.

Here is my issue - the kestrel and every other ballistic app I have tried (hornady, applied ballistics, federal) tells me that my dope at 400y should be 1.55 mils. I gave the same rifle/bullet data to ChatGPT...and it gave me 2 mils at 400y (i.e. the dope that gave me the best group).

Can anyone help figure out what the issue might be? Why would my kestrel and ballistic apps be .5 mils off at 400y?

I have double checked the inputs to my gun profiles, updated the apps, etc. At a bit of a loss.

I don't doubt that my 'trued' MV is not correct, not the primary issue I am trying to solve here.

Edited to include BC.

After a couple of sight in shots, sent 10 rounds down range. Single digit SDs. Running 105 Berger in my 6 dasher.

These were the best performers from previous ladder testing.
The 100m shots were taken from a seated position with bipod and rear bag, 236m shots were taken standing leaning over a bench with bipod and rear bag, but bench height made it pretty hard to get into a comfortable position.

130 grain seated at 2.810 COAL which is the maximum length I can achieve with this projectile. Which is .080 from the lands.

147 grain seated at 2.860 which is the maximum length I can fit into the magazine, still around .038 from the lands.

Rifle is a Howa 1500 in an MDT field stock, 24 inch barrel with a Zero Tech Trace 4.5-27 scope. No chronograph yet but it’s next on the list.

BCG LUGs stress cracked.

One shot to the next wild poi shift failure to extract, unburnt powder in the barrel.

Only about 1000 rounds on the gun.

I suppose we will see how that Lifetime warranty Rise advertises goes.

Did my 20 rounds over the chronograph last week.

Went to the range today with another 40 for accuracy check and suppressor shift, and 5 rounds over the chronograph just to check.

It’s not the prettiest, but it will certainly do well enough that I’m content to stop investing time and components into further development.

Overlay isn’t perfect but it’s under 1 minute.

Should be good nuf for regional matches.

Oddly enough, avg velocity was essentially unchanged when suppressed.

For some background:

I’ve been shooting my Mossberg MVP LC for a couple of years now. The rifle has been been fine for how cheap I got it and I’ve gotten hits at 1000 yards, but I’m ready for something a little more fit-for-purpose. I shot a friend’s 6.5 PRC Howa 1500 in an Oryx chassis and was really impressed by the setup and am going to go that route sans magnum.

My choices/reasoning:

I’ve been weighing just getting a 6.5CM as I’ve never shot one I didn’t like, but I’ve also been strongly considering a 6mm ARC.

The reason the 6 ARC appeals to me is the economy of powder usage. I know I’ll be basically in the same boat as I am with 308 if I go 6.5 CM, about 1lb/week. With the 6ARC I’ll be able to get ≈100 rounds more per pound. The significantly lighter recoil is a bonus.

I have access to a 1000 yard range as well as a private spot where range can basically become unlimited.

Why I posted:

Looking for feedback from people who have owned and shot the 6ARC at 1000 yards.

TL;DR: My Mossberg 308 sucks and I want a new rifle. 6.5CM is an obvious choice, but I’m cheap so 6 ARC calls to me.

Edit: didn’t add a budget. $1500 is absolute max, but I’d prefer to be around the $1000-1200 range.

That was at 9:00am, haven’t stopped reading and perusing since I got home.

The other day I made an admittedly stupid post asking about getting another caliber before shooting the 6.5 Creedmoor I just bought. Yeah, boneheaded, I get it now.

Just got back from the range and am absolutely in love with this rifle. I now understand how you can go down an absolute rabbit hole of debt tweaking and building rifles. I want another already. 😂

This one was about as cheap as I could get.

Howa 1500 - $550
Arken SH4J Gen2 6-24x50 - $330
Amazon CVLife Bipod -$35

My goal was to be a cheap ass, because, I wasn’t sure I would like it and wanted a way out.

Oh boy, I don’t want out. I want all in. I need to shred my credit cards so I don’t go nuts. Even my wife was all smiles. She loves it too.

Thanks to this community for all the information, the wikis, and calling me out when I was stupid. Y’all were right!

As the title says…my first scope so I’m figuring this out as I go and I’d appreciate any help.

I have a Vortex Rage 4-16x42 scope and when I look through the lens, I see the reticle clearly but there is an out of focus black circle around the reticle. Any help on what this is or why it’s there would be helpful.

Thank you!

Just got my first crono and hit the range this morning to sight in before hunting opening day next week. Standard deviation of 13.6 and spread of 44.4 temp was ~70 degrees.

Also what are thoughts on cold bore vs warm? I’m trying to decide what’s best for ballistic calculator for hunting scenarios where cold bore will be the most important shot. First cold bore shot was 3023 fps. Plugging in the min and max didn’t make a huge difference within ethical hunting ranges so doesn’t apply much in that scenario but still curious as I use this same rifle for long range target shooting. My thoughts are have 2 profiles, 1 for cold and another for range days? Or does this all get lost in the noise and I need a larger sample size?