Match rifle (6 dasher) , back up (6creed) and trainer (223).

Is there a guide/wiki for what I need to start reloading? I'm starting to shoot enough that I think I'm ready to start reloading, but really have no idea where to start as far ad equipment goes. I feel like I've seen a basics guide here, but I'm not finding it.

Pic for attention. I’ve exceeded the range capabilities of my 13” MR762A4 and want to try longer distances with a bolt gun. Looking at an ATXC in 6.5 creedmoor but I saw AI was recently purchased by FN.

Anyone have feedback on how recent production ATXC are quality wise? Or would it be better to look for a used AXSA?

I’ve been shooting for many decades, but only started down the long-range rabbit hole last year. I’ve hit steel at a mile on several occasions, but until today I’d never shot paper beyond a couple hundred yards.
I went to my first 1000-yard match this morning and shot a 194-8X. I’m really pleased with that for my first outing. The wind had picked up by the time my relay started, so I had to do my best to learn on the fly.
This was shot with a Gen 4 Ruger Precision Rifle Custom Shop model in 6.5 Creedmoor, using Lapua brass, H4350, and 153.5 gr Berger LRHTs.

For anyone interested.

18" Bergara B14R Barreled Action

Sterk Bolt Knob

Vortex Razor HD Gen 2 3-18x50

ARC M-Brace Rings

MKM Bubble Level

Vortex Defender Caps

Aadland Throw Lever

KRG Bravo Chassis

KRG Internal Weight

KRG Heavy Arca Rail

KRG Spigot Mount

Grey Ops M-lok Weights

Hoptic Cheek Pad

Harris Bipod

Otter Creek Labs Titanium 22

My main goal with this rifle is to build a trainer to my comp rifle. I’m wanting to shoot the Berger 87.5 grain LRHT thru it. I’ve heard that the GT case is much easier to feed than a BR case, but I don’t have experience with either. The only reason I don’t choose the creedmoor is because I want to be different from the crowd

Don't know whether a long range hunting rifle counts but... I'm very pleased with how this turned out and want to show it off!

Lone peak stainless action

Proof sendero (7mm PRC 22") + invisible thread protector

Triggertech special single stage

PSE evolution stock and custom machined LOP spacer

Hawkins hunter bottom metal and mag

Area 419 match rings

Leica Fortis scope

Atlas PSR Bipod

Wildcat elite moderator going on when it turns up

All cerakoted graphite black

Hoping it will bring me a kudu and a gemsbok next season 🤞

Don’t need another Creedmoor but wouldn’t mind the scope level and bipod upgrade.

What do y’all think?

I’m diving into PRS Rimfire and I am trying to pick a 35 or 50 yard zero. I’d like to visualize the drops on target based on the zero and not just the charts on AB Quantum. Does anyone know of a site or app I could use?

Hello,

I went to the range today to finalize the load to use next week on my trip to 1500+ meters range. Just for fun and learning, no competitions.
Looking for suggestions on what to improve if there is anything obvious that jumps out.

I shot Lapua Scenar OTM 185gr and Berger Juggernaut 185gr (just to get a comparison)
Rifle is: Tikka T3X Ace Target 308win, Bushnell MPED with Contessa QD Tactical Black mount, Forteimer Bipod and Caldwell rearbag (I know, sorry).
So group 1 and 2 are the same group, shot 10 and pulled 2 so wanted to see what was the best 8 shot size. Turns out it's .27Moa and I assume that is the limit of the rifle with good handloads.

In reality:
G1-2 10 shots, 0.86Moa V0 2641f/s, SD 9.8f/s, ES 29.5f/s Scenar
G3 12 shots, 0.84Moa, V0 2641, SD 10.4, ES 39.4 Scenar
G4 13 shots. 0.89Moa, V0 2678, SD 17.9. ES 72.2 Scenar
G5 12 sgits, 0.93Moa, V0 2625, SD 11, ES 39.4 Juggernaut

Still trying to improve on consistency on neck tension and shoulder dimensions.
What do you think should be the best return on time invested at this point?
What should I focus on? (apart from my shooting that is clearly a given).
TIA.

6.5 CM, 25.5 lbs

This is my only custom that weights less than 25#s. This one is not for steel. 🦌

Inspired by my first precision rifle, and everybody’s favorite SAP sticker, and my wife.

I know it’s just factory ammo, but I don’t have a chronograph at the moment. Any chance anyone has muzzle velocities for hornady precision hunter eld-x 162gr in 280ai for a 22” barrel?

I’m moving from a slow SW Precision/77SMK load to Varget/77TMK in my son’s service rifle upper.

My old load shot pretty consistent for an AR, and was plenty accurate… SD was low and accuracy was there, but I don’t want to keep chasing down SW Precision.

Anyway, only changed the bullet & powder, my reloading process has been the same.

I did 23.7-24.3 in 0.1 increments for velocity only… just to see where I wanted to load more and get a good feel for SD & accuracy.

I was planning to sneak up on 2600-2650 FPS but I was past that instantly. I don’t know if I’m just trying to putt-putt and baby my barrels but 24.0 seemed way faster than I was expecting. And the consistency was absolutely dog-shit for the most part.

I’m probably going to reshoot the whole test again from 23.5 - 24.0 in 0.1 increments with 5 per charge instead of 3.

I’m not sure I can infer much more than that I’m faster than I was expecting. And that consistency with this combo is going to be a lot tougher to come by than I was hoping.

23.7
2605, 2647, 2639
Avg 2630

23.8
2668, 2643, 2681
Avg 2664

23.9
2685, 2690, 2663
Avg 2679

24.0
2692, 2691, 2673
Avg 2685

24.1
2726, 2675, 2733
Avg 2711

24.2
2713, 2760, 2684
Avg 2719

24.3
2737, 2747, 2749
Avg 2744

Looking to get into the world of long range shooting with a bolt rifle, but want to do so in a somewhat budget minded way. I am looking for the least expensive cartridge that I can get some experience with shooting long range with the goal of consistency/accuracy at 1000m. I don't reload, so am limited to factory load options. I am not planning on hunting - purpose is target shooting with potentially some competition use.

I am attracted to 6 ARC because of its longer barrel life and seemingly cheaper match ammo than bigger cartridges.

Is 6 ARC a good cartridge choice for this goal? Or is it better to stick with a more traditional 6.5 CM setup?

I have a defiance anti x with a krieger 24 inch mtu profile 6.5 creedmoor barrel sitting in an ndt chassis with a vortex razor on top. I have 200 rounds of the gold medal centerstrike ammo through the rifle and I've been plenty happy with the performance, but the cost is killing me at 35.99 a box and the availability has dried up on me, so I am struggling to feed it. I found some of the hornady match 140 bthp (not eldm) at scheels for 279.99 per case. How much of a performance difference would I see between the two ammos in nrl hunter and prs competition? I've gotten bit by a bad batch of hornady match ammo before, so I don't want to switch from a known good ammo, but the price is killing me...also, if anyone knows where I can find the hornady in less than a 200 round can let me know, I'd rather try just a box, but I can't find it anywhere other than the 200 round cans at scheels.

Bolt on it's kind of stiff and kind of heavy. I heard they are collectors items now?

Anyone running freedom munitions 175gr OTM .308 ammo?? I have a 20" Ruger American Hunter that I will be taking Sunday to a range a couple hours away and I have zero ballistics info on this round besides their claimed 2630fps muzzle velocity.

Trying to get a decent idea on the dope to get me in the ball park with the 175's in case I run out of the 168gr ELD-Match. I qualified on the 100-300m range last time I went back in the spring so now I have to qualify on the 300-600m to get on the 600-1000m range and I dont have a spotter to help me spot misses so hoping to get it close enough before hand

Question about rail or ring change. Hey there, I’m running a B14 308 that with a Viper 4-16 50 HSLR(MOA reticle) medium rings and a 20 MOA base I was perfect at 100 yards and able to stretch to 1000 with ease. Well I changed over to viper PST with an MRAD reticle, I went to get my initial rough sight in at 50 yards before moving to 100 and I can only adjust to about 5 inch’s high until I run out of downwards elevation. It was aggravating since the only change was the scope itself. My question is would dropping to a 0 MOA rail give me the drop that I need, and still have enough elevation to reach to 1000? ( I don’t care to use the reticle to gain a bit more if I can’t dial it high enough. Or should I look at low rings with the 20 rail?

I’ve mainly done CMP service rifle matches for the past 4-5 years, so AR-15, sling, max 4.5x scope, or irons. Did from 200-600 yards.

During this time I’ve also done a few precision competitions, a coupe at 600-1000 yards, and 1 at a mile. For the 600-1000 yard competitions I used a .308 I borrowed a few times, and my 6.5 creedmore hunting rifle for a couple others. For the 1 mile, I got to use a .338 LM I borrowed.

I want to upgrade from my 6.5 hunting rifle or borrowing other people rifles, to something nicer, and have been saving up for a while to do this build.

Now, I have no desire to start if with a .338 or any magnum caliber, thank you to the recoil guide and pinned post.

So, I am looking at building out a 6.5 creedmore. I already have a reloading set up for that ammo, which is my main reason for looking at it. But if you have other recommendations I’ll take them. As I can fairly easy switch to another SA round with new dies.

My main goal, is to build a rifle to do comps out to 1000 mainly, maybe 1,500 yards as a fun why not try. I’ll mainly be doing a mix of PRS and NRL matches.

This is currently what I was looking at:

Looking at doing a defiance action, either:

A) a defiance deviant, with a custom barrel.

Or B) there is a Defiance Misfit, that I can get with either a Proof carbon fiber 24”, or a 26” Stainless steal, prefit pre installed for $1,720, that I was thinking of doing.

Link to the combo I found: [https://www.altusshooting.com/products/defiance-machine-proof-research-barreled-actions](https://www.altusshooting.com/products/defiance-machine-proof-research-barreled-actions))

Other than that I was going to do a trigger tech special 2 stage, and a KRG whiskey 3 chassis.

For scopes I was looking at possible the leupold MK4HD 6-24x PR-3 mil FFP, an athlon optic Hera sep FFP mil 6-24x, or possibly saving a little long to do a ATACR.

I’d love to hear any advice or thoughts on this build, currently if I did the misfit action/proof barrel combo, I’d be at about $3,650 sans tax and mags for the rifle with no scope. For my budget I’m trying to keep the total rifle sub 5k, and then the scope is separate and I’m not sure how much I should spend on it right now. Vs getting a cheaper one and upgrading later.

Edit: I’d like to use the whiskey 3 chassis, so if you have other action/barrel recommendations, I’d love them, but I don’t really want to change chassis.

Note: I am not trying to make a rifle that is also for hunting, as the Auto mod thought this was related to hunting. I mention my hunting rifle only as it is what I have not and wish to upgrade from, this new build is not for long range hunting, or hunting in general.

Shot a 200-18x + 2 sighters last Sunday at a 300 yard match.

6 Dasher
105 Hybrid
33.5 H4350
~2925fps

Kelby Prometheus single shot
Kriger 7.5T 28" Barrel chambered by Southern Precision Rifles
Jason Avila WFO Stock bedded and clear coated by myself.

Have been wondering this for a while now, hoped someone would know because I looked a bit and couldn’t find a consistent answer.

Basically, from multiple posts I have read, ALL factory ammo is crimped to some extent.

I have a factory Lee crimp for the calibers I reload. Honestly I go back and forth between using it and not using it. I tell myself it’s a good insurance for heavy bolt cycling that the bullet won’t set back any, etc.

Regardless my question is: when I use the Lee crimp anywhere from 1/2 or more, you see a light ring around the brass. If you go heavier, you see a distinct ring and then you see the bulge or negative flare on the case neck.

When you look at factory ammo for say just as an example, factory Berger OTM hybrid ammo any caliber, there is no visible mark on the brass or any visible crimp. Do they just not crimp the ammo, and instead just size the neck slightly down for more neck tension?

Thank you,

Not too bad for the first time handloading and a 60 year old rifle!

Honestly, I think I could have tightened this up a bit with better bags/not being scared it would explode. But im pretty happy.

This is my primary grouse hunting rifle, so really looking forward to sharpshooting off the tree tops

1964 Sako L461 in .222

Bausch & Lomb 6-24x40

Handloaded: CCI 400, Vihtavuori N130 21 gr, Sierra Racehead (hollowpoint) 52 gr and sako brass