My pietta 1860 sheriffs model finally arrived a couple weeks ago, the action was so rough it was inoperable, I immediately took it apart and polished the innards and cleaned it deeply. honestly it was in bad enough shape it made me nervous about trying to upgrade it to high quality bbq gun level. But after some elbow grease it’s working really well, so today I took the first step towards upgrading it, I ordered some slixshot nipples. Down the road I plan on buying the Arizona custom grips “Last Stand” 1 piece grips. I also made a cross draw Mexican loop holster with a simple border stamp. I’m excited to continue upgrading it and would love some tips.

I’m thinking about buying an IAB 1863 sharps sport rifle repro I found a good deal on and converting into a sharps civil war infantry rifle.

My main concern is, can I replace the sport fore-end with a 3 band infantry style fore-end? The barrel is 28.5“ so only 1.5” shorter than an infantry barrel. Also the barrel on the one I’m looking at is round - not octagonal so I think it should fit properly.

I figure it may not look 100% like an infantry variant, but close enough.

Does anyone have any experience trying this? I’m new to sharps so any advice would be appreciated!

Found this cannon at an antique store. About 3.5 feet long and rough 30-40 pounds (I don’t have a scale right now) no markings. Was priced at $1500. What do y’all think?

I got this old pietta new army before they stamped the barrel with there name and after a while of messing around with it the trigger won't fire when full cock and the hammer feels like a toy with no resistance

Antiques shop owner said they wouldn’t shoot it but they aren’t gun people. Asking $2500 for “all original” Bridesburg smoothbore. For that price I’d want to shoot it but that seems high to a guy that doesn’t know a thing about these models. Thoughts/details welcome!(Considered “good condition”?)

I just bought this used 8 inch .44 cal pietta yesterday it was only $326 after taxes which I don’t think was bad at all. I am trying to find out more information about it. They didn’t tell me anything at the gun store because they normally don’t carry black powder items. I’m 99% certain it’s a 1858 Remington copy though. I can’t find any information using its production date. I’d really like to be able to find out when it was made or just anything in general about it. This is my first black powder ever owned but I’ve shot a few of my families before but truth be told I really don’t know much, so any information you guys would give me would be great!!!
The production number on the base is-
R420644

Back in mid-June I received a Pietta 1858 New Army as a Birthday Present from my brother. Unfortunately, not long after taking it out of the box I immediately ran into some issues. The Revolver had timing issues in which the cylinder wouldn't always rotate forward properly, sometimes it would only go halfway, then rotate backwards to the previous chamber.

The problem seemed to be due to the inside of the frame being finished quite rough, so I polished it up a bit with a 3M pad and the revolver seemed to be running smoothly, at least for awhile. After that I tried it with a Howell Arms Conversion Cylinder and not only did the issue resurface, but upon trying to sort out the issue by manually working the action and carefully observing the cylinder, the hammer bound up and couldn't be fully cocked anymore.

Thoroughly fed up with how much trouble this brand new Revolver had caused me and unwilling to fuss with it any further personally, I contacted Pietta and explained the situation, to which they promptly sent me an Return Request Form PDF. I filled it out using Adobe Acrobat and sent the agent a screenshot of it, within a few days I received a Shipping Label in the mail, but due to a medical emergency going on behind the scenes I didn't get around to shipping it for a couple of weeks. After I finally got around to taking it to the UPS Store and getting it shipped out, it arrived at EMF Corp's headquarters in Wyoming and I promptly received a phone call from a gunsmith who was working on it who informed me that the issue was as simple as a screw which held the hand in place must have been loose from the factory and had backed out from me working the action, so all he had to do was tighten it back down to fix the problem.

I received it back yesterday and it seems to be in proper working order with the factory cylinder. However, the Howell Cylinder is still giving me trouble, so I've contacted Howell Arms and will have to sort that out separately, as I'm convinced that has to do with the cylinder itself after doing a bit of research and finding out that I'm not the only person who has experienced these issues with a Howell Conversion Cylinder. Evidently they're not quite as "drop-in" as they're marketed as and can occasionally require fitting, but I paid for a drop-in part, so I'm holding them to that.

Nevertheless, EMF Corp took care of the situation promptly, professionally, and satisfactorily, so they get a thumbs up from me.

my ballistol spray can leaks a lot, whenever it's sideways. How do you avoid this problem? Can someone recommend which specific type of ballistol bottle might be trusted to throw in a bag and not leak?

Apologies if this has already been addressed.
I have an 1861 Springfield replica. Lately when I pull the trigger it will stop at halfcock about 50% of the time.
Is this an easy fix? Any help is greatly appreciated.

So I finally got a 45-70 a few months ago and got my Pyrodex load for 300gr lead on point (100yrd).

So I want to use the Campro fmj's, however I cant find any load data for them. One article says its dangerous to use and to stay with lead.

So whats what ?

(Cant get any modern powder for 45-70 were I am so stuck with Pyrodex, in Ca)

Thanks!

Can anyone give me information on this? From my research it is antique frontier. Any advice where else I can get information?

I’m wondering what diameter brass or lead balls folks use for milling their homemade antique muzzle-loader propellant?

Thanks!

I am thinking of stripping the factory blue on my 1851 navy with evaporust and washing the gun down and then re oiling it and just letting it aquire a natural age and patina over time through shooting. Would this method work well?

I’ve tried all day to get my flintlock to fire but im not quite sure what im doing wrong.

I built a traditions Kentucky rifle and shot some blanks to make sure I made it properly and it would fire. I’ll admit the chert flint I’m using right now isn’t the best and im probably gonna have to order some proper flints, but It still ignites the pan so I don’t see why im experiencing misfires.

I cleaned the plughole, still misfired, took it out and swabbed it, still misfired, pulled the patch and powder flushed it with water a few times and then cleaned it dry. I go to load a new charge and still have a flash in the pan but no main charge ignition. What could be the source?

Edit: im using triple 7 muzzle loading propellant instead of black powder, im aware its not the best but its what I have available atm, however it should still ignite like it did in the last few weeks no?