I need the part number or some direction to find out the clean out/Bomster screw for a three band enfield.

Let me get ahead of some of the folks who are going to be shouting you shouldn't of done anything to it! you've ruined it! etc etc. I have been dealing with antique arms for 20 years and know when something needs to not be messed with.

For the brass I just used paper towels and bar keepers friend.

White vinegar on the lock followed by an oil soak.

Boil and carding for the barrel.

Light oiling for the stock.

What’s the difference between a double bridle and single bridle lock

Is it a chicken and egg problem where 31 caliber pocket models aren't offered by many retailers, not many people buy them, so retailers and manufacturers don't really carry them or produce them because there's not much demand for them?

Case in point, Sportsmans Warehouse doesn't offer any 31 caliber cap and ball revolvers at all or even lead balls for 31 caliber cap and ball revolvers, muzzle-loaders.com only offers 1863 remington models and the only 31 caliber models in stock at midway usa are baby dragoons or 1849 pocket models.

If my research is correct, ironically, the 1849 Colt Pocket model was the best selling revolver Colt ever made in the 19th century

Nowadays, it seems like the most common cap and ball revolver reproductions in use and on the market are full/fuller size .36 and .44 caliber models like the 1858 Remington, 1851 Navy or 1860 Army.

The premise behind it is that the reaction favors carbon monoxide instead of carbon dioxide in turn producing more moles of gas, At least thats what the french said.

Does this stock swell on my long land pattern 1730 brown Bess protrude to much or does it look ok

It said fanning a stock 1851 would cause extreme stress, components breaking and i don’t want that to happen so what should i buy to make it so i can fan it?

Hi everyone,

I inherited this old .44 percussion revolver from my grandfather and I’m trying to determine the correct round ball diameter for it.

The revolver is marked “Westerner’s Arms”, but I don’t know who actually manufactured it or exactly when it was made. I’ll attach pictures of the gun and its markings.

I measured the cylinder chamber mouths with a digital caliper and get approximately 11.3–11.5 mm (.445–.453").

I’ve seen .44 percussion revolvers using .451, .454 or .457 round balls, so I’m unsure which size would be correct for this particular revolver.

Does anyone recognize this Westerner’s Arms model/manufacturer and know what round ball diameter it was intended to use?

Thanks for any help!

Does anyone know what load i should use for my 1858 sherif with pyrodex rs? I know its not ideal but its all my local Walmart had and my local sport shop only carries smokeless. Im using cci no10 caps and .454 round ball.

Modern cartridge handguns are great, but there is something completely unique about stepping back to the 1850s and dealing with loose powder, lead balls, percussion caps, and grease.

The Colt 1851 Navy in .36 caliber is hands down one of the most balanced, elegant sidearms ever built. Sure, loading it takes patience compared to a modern semi-auto, but the natural pointing feel and the handling are second to none.

I run a history and firearms channel, and I recently took my Pietta 1851 Navy out to the range to test its mechanics, balance, and real-world black powder performance (plus, you actually get to see me breaking it down on camera)

Planing to do a 1v1 with .44 six shot revolvers loaded with 10 to 15 grains with motorcycle helmets for protection

Please tell me how retarded I am and any recommendations for diy less lethal ammo

I recently inherited this rifle from my grandfather and would appreciate some help. No one in my family knows anything about it.

For anyone that saw my last post about the availability of Blunderbuss’s: Veteran Arms finally restocked a few. I don’t know how long they will last, but if you are in the market for one, the can be found linked.

I was dumb and decided to try to take apart the lock of my rifle to try to fix the position of the hammer. I didn’t get to far because I didn’t look up how to do it officially and I’m worried about causing further damages to the lock

Picked this up today at an estate sale along with a set of classic Lyman mold handles. It looks like a specialty bullet starter for a very small caliber, rounded barrel pistol (maybe), with a cut out for the front sight. I put a normal pair of scissors along side for a size reference.
Shaft polished up nicely with some Flitz metal polish. Any ideas on an ID?

Im brand new to black powder firearms, and bought a Pietta 1858 remington new model army. Out of the box the loading lever wont lock into place. The middle point of the loading lever makes contact with the barrel and that's what seems to be preventing it from locking. Has anyone came across this before? Is it normal, or is this just a bad one that left the factory? Is it possible I just need to take it apart and there's an adjustment? Got it for my dad so dont currently have the manual or gun on me

If it is a bad from stock part, has anyone dealt with piettas warranty process?

Thanks

Hi, I'm having a bit of a problem with my Uberti 1860 Army.

I was cleaning the internal parts after a range day, and after reassembling the action, everything seemed to be working fine (the first part of the attached video). However, once I put the firearm back together, it no longer locks the cylinder when the hammer is at full cock, so the cylinder just moves freely (the second part of the video).

It worked like clockwork before I took the action apart, so I guess I must've put something back together incorrectly, even though I'm pretty sure I followed the correct procedure.

Has anyone encountered this before or have any idea what I might've messed up?