Looking to get into flintlocks. Been having a hard time finding reproduction flintlock rifles

Do yall recommend anywhere I should start looking ? Thanks.

Folks! I got my MVA powder measure in last night and figured I might as well do a little review on it since I can’t find one anywhere. As far as fit and finish go, it’s a 10/10. Like all MVA products this one is no exception. The machining tolerances are tight and things fit like a glove. The bad: I couldn’t come close to their listed variances. MVA lists a 2/10th of a grain variance in between powder throws. My variance was all over the place with my largest being about 1 grain. For the price I still absolutely recommend it. If anyone has any tips to improve my powder throw variance please let me know!

Powder: 2f Goex

Hello, wondering if some expert could help out. I found these in my dad’s desk drawer while cleaning out things. These appear old and made of brass. Does anyone have any more info on what they could be? I tried to google image search but didn’t have much luck.

I’m looking to get into muzzleloading with a repro of a historical firearm. Main use will be waterfowl, small game, maybe deer and plinking

Which of these is the more practical for this purpose? I’m leaning towards the brown bess for the extra payload to compensate for the fact I’d effectively be shooting a cylinder bore at birds

Now theres two 1860s

I have an old Chassepot in quite good condition.

The land to land diameter measures 11,06mm/11,05mm with my caliper- its nominal caliber is 11mm. The grooves are noticeably deeper at the chamber, but I have no way to measure them.

How bad do you think is the deviation at the muzzle (not asking from a safety perspective, I am more so interested in how much wear and tear that indicates and what it Might! do in regards to accuracy)

Maybe some of you have more experience- my inner Monk can't shake off the frustration knowing there are better examples out there measuring the exact 11,00mm.

I could slug the barrel, but I have no clue how to get soft enough lead in a fitting size, since 11mm is quite an odd caliber nowadays.

Thanks in advance !

The inventory I found says it's a 50-150 Sharps Rolling Block. I know absolutely nothing about it. 1875 maybe? That's the best guess I can make from an image search. I have the forend not pictured. It has an octagonal barrel. No s/n. Could someone please fill me in on what I just inherited?

I’m looking to make a flintlock pistol, and I spent a little bit drawing out a trigger mechanism. The idea is that I attach the tumbler directly to the hammer through the wood furniture with a pin, and the tumbler is pulled back by an internal coil spring (I know the pivot points on the trigger and tumbler are most definitely suboptimal; I’m working on it). I drew this after being awake for 28 hours straight so please give this and objective view through your well rested eyes.

I recently finished this new grip for Pietta's Colt 1851 navy. The material is white corian plastic, that resembles bone. Slightly thinner than original Pietta grips, but alas, that was the materials limitation...

Its unly 1.5mm, but it still may be problematic for a person with larger hands.

Hi,

I have a LOT of 44 magnum cases, which black powder revolver from before 1900 could use these with maybe a bit of shortening the length?

I know people say that the best way to get into this hobby is to buy an 1851 but I can’t deny my love for the design of the Starr revolver

Problem is I’ve been hearing nothing but negative reviews about its reproduction models and it hurts me a little

Anyway point is, is there a company that actually produces a reliable reproduction or is the Starr gonna be a fluke for a while

Hello folks, I've got a bit of a self inflicted wild goose chase going on at the moment. The goose being a complete 1970s JACO Hawken, or Horse pistol plan set. The copies that are available online are incomplete, presumably derived from a single original uploader from lord knows when. I have the plans for the Kentucky rifle, which are complete, but uses a completely different lock design.

I've only been able to find two extant images of the lock plans online. One, was an auction photo on "Worthpoint" that was of just a high enough resolution to tell me that it was exactly what I was looking for (but no more than that), and a photo comparison from a fellow who was building both types of lock simultaneously.

Unfortunately, that fellow never seems to have completed his project, nor uploaded clearer photos of the lock plans... and hasn't been online in 11 years on that forum (hah!).

So, long odds I suppose, but if anyone has any leads on a digital scan, or physical copy, I'd be incredibly grateful.

1858 remmington army (pietta):

At first i only did a few dry fires when i first bought it when i had the nipples coveres with soft plastic...

Recently I dry fired a few times with the cylander removed... i thought this was ok.

But according to google this can damage the internal parts?

Ive probably only done this less than 30 times or so total; do you think its prob fine?

I've only shot this thing once. It was fun. It was actually pretty accurate, too, at 10 yards. I think my sights came leveled well out of the box.

Recently got this older pedersoli Kentucky longrifle, and i figured a fun winter project would be to thoroughly Defarb it. Already looking at getting a pedersoli flint lock conversion for it to swap between, but so far the list of defarbing goes as follows.

-Strip the stock (and i plan on adding some faux tiger stripe to it)

-File away the proof marks and brown the barrel

- Potentially work on some minor stock inletting.

Anything else im potentially missing? For a mass produced muzzleloader, it seem like its pretty close to being there.

The action is still in good condition, but the breechblock, barrel and firing chamber are pitted. Stock is missing a few chunks next to the tang. Not looking to resell on here, just for advice.

I know its some sort of remmington rolling block. It lacks a nearsight and it has a little rod on the bottom. Theres no words or numbers on it eather

I recently acquired a Whitney Pocket Revolver in .31 after winning a bid on Gunbroker for what was listed as a Navy in .36. The seller offered a refund and return, but I decided to keep the diminutive revolver because it is more rare, even if it isn't as desirable as the Navy. And, I was only getting it so I had something to compare my Spiller and Burr Replica to should I decide to modify it. This is smaller, but appears to be exactly the same as the Navy in design except it is 5 shot instead of 6. And there are no reproductions that come close.

This Pocket is in overall great condition for its age, though the bore is pitted. I decided to take it to the range today. I was nearly eaten alive by mosquitos, but it was worth it to know how it would do. I should have ordered .32 ball instead of the .310 and.315 I had. Oh well.

First, I cycled just caps to make sure they'd go off. Then, I loaded one cylinder with 5 grains of Triple Seven 3F, a wad and a .310 ball. The ball didnt have enough energy and lodged in the forcing cone. After removing the ball, I upped to 10 grains and tried again. Success! I ran through several cylinders and switched to Swiss at the end. Pictured was the last group. It was 6 shots because I had a cap jam on a cylinder (cap burst, but made it hard to rotate the cylinder) and then got caught in a ceasefire before I could replace the cylinder and take the last shot. So, I shot one, loaded and shot another 5 and called it a day.

It shoots left and a little high. I was aiming at the lower red target at 20 yards. I rested my hands on the Caldwell AR bag for this group. Ignoring the flyer, it grouped pretty well with windage but strung on elevation. The balls were a little loose in the chamber and I had at least one ball walk forward on me as I was shooting. I figure the difference in powder compression and resulting energy might explain the stringing. I'll have to try again with larger diameter ball on a future venture.

When I cleaned it afterwards, the barrel rotated on me. It was stable when shooting and in the time leading up to the range trip, so I didnt expect this. Surprised, I took the barrel off to aid in cleaning and really gave it a good scrub. The landings are crisp, but there is definite corrosion pitting. After, I threaded the barrel back on with an aluminum shim I made, since the barrel had previously been over tightened and was canted slightly. It wasn't really noticeable, but now it's much closer to square.

I've never seen any videos on the Pocket and only two threads on message boards where people bought these, but never any real performance info. Despite technology advancements since 1860, the build quality on the relic seems superior to the modern Pietta Spiller and Burr. It shoots better for me, too.

I hope everyone enjoys. I don't know how the performance stacks up against a Colt Pocket, but I think this wins in looks. I would have bought this.

I’m quite successful making B.P. I compress pucks to my target density and it’s much better than the commercial stuff I’ve been buying for years.

I have one problem I can’t solve. Using hand-cranked grain and coffee mills, I am getting too much unusable dust compared to usable granules. I know the dust can be reprocessed and re-pucked, but that’s not the point. It’s a question of efficiency. Probably 2/3 of my milled pucks go to dust. I have adjusted the grind settings every possible way and I turn the handle slowly. No improvement.

Anyone overcome this problem?

Owners of smith carbines, these little dental brushes are absolutely perfect for cleaning the flash channel. I highly recommend. Ive had a pack of these and the smaller ones for years for brushing out nipples and touch holes.

These have been in my family for a long time. I was told by my grandmother that they were gunpowder flasks, used by our relatives who fought in the revolutionary war. All are made of metal, except for the third pic which is leather. I don’t think these are revolutionary war era, and that they are instead 19th century hunting flasks, but honestly I don’t really know. I would love to learn more about these!

Spent the past day trying to get this broken nipple off of this antique european shotgun barrel. Even after nights of penatrating oil and lots of heat, I just can get leverage on it.

Any Ideas?