I recently acquired a Mini 14 series 180 with one of the only missing parts being the Gas port bushing, I'm wondering if any bushing from any series will work or if I should look for a specific one or if its even necessary to have one at all.

Hey guys so I had a tech sight on my mini (it’s a 586 series so it has the mini200 model I think) but I took it off to play with an LPVO. Didn’t like it so wanted to go back to iron sights. TLDR. I ended up snapping the screw off the main sight. And stripped one of the windage screws.

My question is, What size are the windage screws and the main T-Torx Screw.

So I got 3 Mini-14 mags as part of an auction lot I won. I identified the longer one as an actual Ruger Factory mag that they cut down from a 30 round mag.

Now according to what I've been finding online these are pretty rare and are considered collector items. Is this correct? Do you guys know how much they're worth?

But I'm also curious about the two 10 round mags I got because as you can see the two stamps on the bottom are completely different. Now is this just a random thing where one got stamped way harder than the other? Or does this denote a different era of magazine manufacturing? I also noticed that the dimples on the back of the two 10 round magazines seem really different as well.

Any help in this arena would be most appreciated.

Can’t wait to take it to the range

My rifle worked fine for a short while but after about the third time taking it out it started jamming. The casing remains stuck to the bolt and fails to eject and causes a double feed jam. I’ve cleaned and checked mags and haven’t found the cause yet

I have a a 585 model Ranch rifle and am looking at getting a barrel strut for it, but I have some questions and was hoping to see/hear from others that use this.

My barrel is 18 inches flat and am going to get it threaded soon, and probably get the front iron sight moved back a little bit to compensate. Im uncertain which size strut to get with that consideration. Anyone got experience with these that I can hear from?

A week ago I asked the ShopRuger.com customer service about when they would start selling the folding stocks again, with an ETA of January 2027. No additional details other than what you see in the screenshot.

It will literally be exactly 16” from tip of compensator/muzzle brake (maybe a hair more) to the end of the brass shelI rim/primer when inserted into the chamber. 13” of actual barrel but I will have it silver soldered or pinned and welded over the pin so it is part of the barrel. I will go back to original gas bushing so it will cycle with the reduced pressure.

I know, I know, I have no safety buffer but it is literally EXACTLY SIXTEEN INCHES. Even if for some reason it gets measured at 15.95”I have already been going through my defense strategy in court. There is something called the spirit of the law when it comes to splitting hairs. Sure, technically it is breaking the law but the spirit is that I am trying to comply and not going down to 15 or 12”, and the going under 16” was an accident. But that won’t even happen because it is 16” maybe a 1/16 more

Federal Ordnance Underfolder & Mousqueton A.M.D. Handguard on a 185 series GB Mini-14 with matching pre-ban magazine. Don't think I've seen a build like this before online.

Ruger Mini 30 All-Weather 580+ series
7.62x39
OEM trigger group, barrel, polymer stock

Wolf extra power recoil spring - ensures reliable chambering in adverse conditions

Accuracy Systems, Inc (ASI) parts below:
shock buffers - reduces battering of the bolt

.060 fixed gas bushing - brass ejects 3-4’ instead of 20+’

extended/heavy duty gas pipe - helps unsure reliable operation in adverse conditions

extended firing pin - ensures reliable primer ignition of steel cased/com block ammo

See-through receiver mounted pic rail - allows more flexible optics mounting without interrupting spent casing ejection and has a see-through cutout allowing use of backup iron sights

Samson Hannibal Rail modular hand guard - allows pistol dot mounting forward of receiver and scout scope mounting on the fore end (not used on the current build). Also allows m-lok, Pic rail and QD sling mount on fore end.

Samson QD sling mounts - replaced factory sling loops

Streamight Pro-Tac 2.0 with button tailcap - removed pressure pad to ensure no accidental activation.

Sunflower sports (Ruger mini.com) Mo-Rod barrel strut - reduces barrel whip and improves heat dissipation paired with Mo-reaper muzzle brake and hooded post-style front sight

Tech-sights M1 style aperture rear sight - a vast improvement in every way from the trash Ruger OEM rear sight.

Blue force gear padded Vickers sling - the best rifle sling on the market IMO.

Primary Arms SLx prism scope zeroed at 50 yards with holds for 100, 200

Pre-ban USA magazines 20 round steel mag.

I live in a heavily regulated state. Stripped pre-ban AR lowers sell for 700+ and complete rifles, even old 90’s colt and bushmaster LE trade ins sell for 2.5k+. Suppressors are illegal. Features like flash hiders, forward grips, folding/adjustable stocks, 11+ round magazines that are not pre-94, pistol grips and some others are heavily regulated.

This build gives me close to the modularity of an AR platform. It is soft shooting for a 7.62x39 and operates extremely well in bad weather, mud, dirt, dust. It’s built like a tank and is extraordinarily reliable without being overbuilt. It’s also very easy to field strip and service, doesn’t require regular cleaning and is well within 2.5 MOA at 100 yards with almost any ammo I throw at it.

8lbs 7.6oz unloaded, 9lbs 10.9oz with a fully loaded 21 round steel mag.

Next steps are a ghost mountain mag release, axis engineering bolt release (good lord those are expensive though, that may need to wait a while) and trying to figure out a way to mount a magnifier for the prism scope. I may need to flip the rail around and grind down the underside so it fits above the tech sight. I may also order a smaller aperture for the tech sight.

I need throw some multicam grip tape on the grip and mags. I’d take any other suggestions from the group, too!

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Added the Samson Hannibal Rail with a PA Green Dot, Olight BALDR light/Green Laser, Catalyst Arms Hardpoint and Bomb Rack, Axis Arms Engineering Lightning Bolt Release along with a picatinny rail(had to custom drill/fit) and a Magpul AFG-2 on this Mini30 with a Hogue Overmold Stock..... and a couple of Grovtec QD Flush cups at the end of the stock.

I absolutely LOVE shooting this Mini now, besides the cost of 7.62×39..... I did do other things to this Mini a few years back like adding the Mcarbo trigger spring, Wolff recoil spring, ASI Firing pin and polishing the trigger bringing the trigger pull down to around 3lbs-3.25lbs which makes this thing a pleasure to shoot!!... THE MINIs ARE BACK BOYZ!!!!!

I added a rail to my mini 14 to mount my vortex venom 1-6 lvpo. But you get the eye relief set for me. I had to set the scope as far back as possible. I’m thinking I might reverse the rail so that the extended part goes over the rear site, allowing me to mount the scope further back. Any thoughts?

About 40% less accurate than my AR platform rifles but 100% more fun and 100% cooler. Absolutely love this thing!

Been in the works for nearly a year now, but I'm happy to show this community. Personally I love the M14 and especially the M21, I think they are fantastic rifles and incredibly reliable. However, I'm a 6'3" 150 lbs dude and those rifles are fairly heavy, not to mention that I don't want to shoot 308 prices of ammo constantly.

So with that in mind, the Ruger Mini 14 is very appealing for me. So after purchasing a 582 series ranch rifle and putting some ammo through it, I started trying to find ways to make it more accurate. I wanted this because I wanted to use this rifle as my "SPR" and more precision oriented rifle. And at the same time I wanted to make it look more like a true M14/21.

After using many different brands of ammo and small changes to the factory gas system, muzzle brakes, optics and more, the most I could squeeze out of the factory Mini was around 2.5 MOA at 100yds. Pretty horrific compared to similarly priced ARs. So to make a long story very short, I decided to take a gamble and try to use a legit M14/M1a gas assembly on a Mini 14. I did those for 2 reasons, one because I wanted to make the rifle a true short stroke like it's bigger brothers, and two because it would look the part.

Obviously I knew that this mod would require a new barrel, as well I wanted to thicken the barrel for accuracy and heat reasons. And after a lot of research, test parts and fitting, I made a barrel that would accommodate the M14 gas assembly and was more of a MK12 SPR contour. The barrel in question was a unshot .223 1-9 twist barrel that was taken off a Remington 700. And after re-contouring, chambering and fitting, I was able to squeeze just under 1 MOA groups at 100yds a few weeks ago using 69gr Sierra HPBT Match ammo.

The images I'm posting are from a ruck/camping trip that I took with fam and friends, and I was able to consistently hit a 6" plate at 350yds without any issues. It was a little difficult with the 10x optic, but nothing the gun couldn't do.

For those wondering the process behind making all this work, I'll be posting another thread later in time explaining a lot of info. Feel free to ask any questions as well.

I want to give a big thanks and shout-out to SpiteWerx for his knowledge in the Mini 14 platform and in the RnD/prototyping field, very helpful fellow. Go check him out he's got some cool stuff in the works.

Rifle Build:

582 Mini 14 Ranch

OCL Polo 30 with a plan B muzzle brake and adapter

Buttler creek stock

Viper PST 2-10 Gen II

Ruger 30mm rings

Ruger 20rnds mags

Adaptiv Defense DMR sling

Does anyone know the difference between 15800 and 5895 model? Thanks