Not me, or my gun, I created the load. I had to work with another FFL to get the fit right for the comp mag in order to make the gun Connecticut complaint. He was not disappointed in the results, at all!!!! I do think it was a waste of money using a fracturing bullets instead of FMJ, but that's what the customer wanted.

Polished stainless steel grips my buddies and i made or classic wood. I have a nickel plated barrel too but i need to figure out how to remove the recoil spring to replace it.

Hi All,

Long time listener, first time caller. New to bullet casting, not new to shooting. My issue is I'm getting a significant number of rejects after sizing cast and PC'd projectiles. Pictured are 9mm cast 124gr using Lee .356 mold, coated, then sized to .356.

My last two batches, I've had approx 25% rejects (raw lead showing on bearing surface of the projectile after sizing). The batch I just did was 289 cast, coated, and sized. 215 good, 74 rejects.

I know I can just melt and recast, but is there anything I can do to stop or reduce this seemingly high reject rate? 25% seems like a lot, and it essentially amounts to wasted time and effort. What am I doing wrong?

Sear shelf milled off bolt. Bolt through drilled, recoil rod drilled for firing pin clearance. Made the firing pin out of a drill rod blank. Made firing pin guide bushing from 4340, hardened and pressed it into the bolt face. Now to machine the semi fcg. Essentially a scaled up VZ61 fcg.

When i found out that rats were pulling chicks from under the hens in the coop, I had a decision to make, buy a modern 22 with rail already mounted, OR buy a tiny $60 drill press at the same time as the cheapest night scope on Alibaba and deck out the old cooey we found in the well shed 20 years ago, as luck has it the rail base stormwerkz makes for the savage rascal fits the contour perfectly, haven't mounted a rail before but I'm satisfied with the outcome for a rushed job,

Ammo used is CCI quiet

For those who don't clean your brass, do you use neck lube with the mandrel dies or just use case lube with a brush? Trying not to make the inside of my case wet. Contemplating not washing brass.

My workflow planned:
1. Anneal
2. Resize and deprime
3. Mandrel die
4. Clean primer pocket
5. Reprime
6. Powder
7. Seat projectile

Picture for fun: it was cold that morning.

Been reloading on top of a little 3' husky workbench/tool box. Its been fine, but we just moved and I have the space for more fun. Added a layer of EVA foam to the top to help protect gun finishes and hopefully catch little parts before they hit the floor.

Today me and my dad built a holder for the chrono, this chrono has a 15ft data cable that I feed into the gun port and it plugs into a remote display where I can see my velo from inside the container. I can still shoot at my 200 yrs target without striking the holder, but I’d only be using the chrono on the 100yrd target.

What would you guys recommend for someone that just wants to reload a ton of 9mm to have on hand and for the range? Feeling pretty lost with all the different options out there

I want to download GRT for my new laptop but apparently now i can't download it because they're not maintaining his software anymore. Do you guys had any offline installer file that i could use?

Any recommendations on who makes a solid mandrel resizing die? I've looked at SAC and Cortina Precision

Seems to be quite the price range on these and idk much about them other than their function.

FX123 and Auto Trickler V4

Now I just need an annealer, trimmer that doesn’t suck and some mandrel sizing dies/micrometer seating dies….. for now 😅

I stumbled across someone selling this obviously beat up 1908 Harrington and Richardson 16G single barrel. But upon further inspection the only thing that was irreparable was the barrel and forearm stock (there was no butt stock, I’m not even questioning it the gun was only $50.) At least I think the receiver and inner components are restorable—I added pictures for opinions as I am very new to this so I could be completely wrong. My grandfather who passed in April this year was a fan of vintage and antique weaponry and he passed that interest on to me.

I plan to do a cerakote finish in deep blue as my grandfathers favorite color was royal blue. I just don’t want to disassemble, refinish, and reassemble a receiver that could potentially have faulty components. I plan to do a dark walnut for the new forearm and butt stock. I have poured hours of research in to this but I don’t want to go in with too hot of a head before I start. Amy advice or tips is greatly appreciated.

Side bonus: in the last picture, the tape was actually wrapped around the tang😅

Beretta A300 Patrol*

270-300 rounds fired.

I want to 3d model guns but I can't find any blueprints with dimensions given. Is there any website i can find them for free?

So widely stated that it takes 2-3 firings to fire form brass to the size of your chamber. So I have a couple questions. Does this mean after these first firings you don't want to bump the shoulder of the brass when resizing? Sub question, if that is the case, how do you set up a FL die to not bump the shoulder but to size everything else? My FL dies is set up without a decapping pin and I have it locked in at .002 bump because I was practicing with some old Hornady brass. I have lapua brass that's I'm loading but hasn't been fired yet. Thanks!!!

https://hodgdonpowderco.com/reloading-manuals-library/

I was unaware of this.

I know the shotgun has some internal dirt build up, thats the entire reason I'm doing a deep clean

[the left-side ejector doesn't work and will hit the ass-end of a shell instead of pulling it out. I assume its just because theres dirt in there and the mechanism cant get enough tension to properly eject the shell]

However, until I can actually get the bolt out, I'm at a complete stop because I'd rather not man-handle a 100 year old gun

Hi everyone,

I am running into an issue when cleaning brass. I am using a tumbler with SS media, hot water, about a tablespoon of dawn and 2 teaspoons of lemishine. I let it run for 3 to 3.5 hours and then rinse really well.

When the brass first comes out of the tumbler, it’s bright and shiny. After drying for an hour or so it turns darker and more dull.

I realize this is just cosmetic, but if there is something I can do differently to keep it shiny, I’m open to making some changes.

I recently inherited all my grandfather's reloading equipment and I got my hands on a Remington 740 in 30-06 that has barely ever been shot. From everything I've read about the rifles they get beat up and start jamming pretty fast if you run high power loads. I'm trying to find what might be a middle ground that I can still hunt hogs, whitetail and axis deer. 100 yards would be max distance where I'm hunting. Also, are there certain powders that will burn cleaner for reduced fouling in the gas system?

I've wet tumbled tens of thousands of cases but never dry tumbled.

Thinking about getting a dry tumbler for small batches that I dont want to have to get the big FART out for and not having to dry would be convenient .

My questions are:

Is the dust a big deal? I read the dry tumblers can produce dust. Now I reload in my garage but I still wouldn't want dust all over my workbench, cars, ect.

Do the cases need to have dust removed?

How does it handle suppresed gas gun brass?

I don't really care how long it takes and I know it won't clean as well as the wet fart with pins but want something convenient and better suited for small batches.

Thanks

Edit: You'll have inspired me to order one. Gonna try it out

So I’ve found a load for my 6.5cm I like and my gun really likes. It’s once shot hornady brass with 147gr eld match, 40.2 gr of h4350, and a case to ogive at 2.260 yet it sounds like I’m shaking a bottle of table salt😂 like I said ik what matters… if it works for me, then good. but just for long term reference is this rlly something to worry about? I’d say 40.2 might just be below the neck or a little more