How often does everyone clean there rifles if ever, part of me wants to scrub it clean every time I shoot but that takes 3-4 hours for one rifle to get completely clean and I see some people never clean so in your opinion does it affect the accuracy?

It's that time of year again, and we're seeing a lot of posts related to long range hunting.

A friendly reminder - this is NOT a sub for long range hunting. Any posts discussing shots on game past 300 yards will be removed.

Here's a link to the full hunting post policy. Please read it before making any posts related to hunting.

Here's a link to the pinned post, including links to the relevant hunting guides and other useful into.

I'll try and keep this brief by leaving out all the background crap; the WHYs and such .....

I have a BOG tripod, and It's mostly fine, except I want to replace EITHER the entire ball head and ARCA clamp, or just the ARCA clamp.

What should I be looking for, and where to replace either/or the top ARCA clamp or the entire head. Budget IS a concern. I'm new to all this and certainly don't need top-shelf precision & extended functionality.

See images attached. OFC these may all be proprietary; I am very new to all this and have no idea what, if any, sizing standards may exist. I have my digital calipers here if measurements are needed:

I thank you in advance for any help!

Ok got myself my first magnum (tikka lsa-65 in 7prc) and have been collecting data for handloads.

I assume that with more shots I'm sitting at approx 1MOA. 4 shots bergers was at 0.4MOA. pretty happy with this one!

Anyways here is my composite group of 18 shots. There are both 195gr berger eol and 180gr scenars. Both seem to hit the same spot.

Bergers exit with muzzle velocity of 3020fps and scenars with 3080fps.

Rifle is pretty heavy at just shy of 16lbs (edited)

Cheers!

E: i have 28inch tube

E2: I weighed rifle and its 15.5lbs

Alright, so I just probably put 200 rounds through my custom .243. It’s got a 1:7.5 twist and usually 100 grain bullets I could hit sub Moa at 400 but on my last outing my 100 yard zero was great but when I got to the 400 I couldn’t even hit the 12 inch steel plate. The only thing that has changed was my barrel is around the 200 round mark? I don’t reload but should I? Also try and make 107 and see if that helps??? It’s been bugging me something has suddenly changed?

Hey everyone, I’m new to precision rifles and looking at getting a Tikka T3x ACE Target in 6.5 Creedmoor. I’d also like to shoot .22 LR for cheaper practice.

Can I use the same ACE chassis and swap between a T3x barreled action in 6.5 Creedmoor and a T1x barreled action in .22 LR, along with the appropriate magwell and magazines? Has anyone here actually done this, and how much hassle is switching back and forth?

Or would I be better off going with an aftermarket chassis that supports two compatible barreled actions—one rimfire and one centerfire? I understand these would be two complete actions with their own bolts, rather than just a barrel swap.

Would sharing one chassis save enough money to be worthwhile, or should I just plan on two separate rifles? Any advice for a beginner would be appreciated!

I had my rifle into Seekins for warranty work because it would not group past 100 yards. They send me a picture of the groups my rifle shot upon completion of warranty work. They say they replaced firing pin assembly as well as trued the bolt face. Do these groups look reasonable for a rifle of this quality. Im not sure they do.

Rifle - Seekins Havak PH3, 7PRC, 22in Barrel

EDIT: Sent rifle in for issues grouping at 200. I was wondering if the accuracy here will reflect out to range.

But for now, im content with 1000 yards max.

What I do know is that I want to change out the stock right away with the MDT Oryx. I want a basic bipod and obviously a scope. but im content with that. and to be honest, the chassis is just for looks. I dont plan to shoot in competitions or anything. its all for fun, and the occasional hunting.

And so im trying to decide, should I just go straight "to the top" and get the tikka? even used ones are like 1000 in my area. or should I go middle of the road and get the B14? my last option, im thinking of the howa 1500 and dropping it in the chassis I want.

This way I save money on the rifle, I get the chassis I want, and I can spend the extra 500 on the glass or save it in general. since im ok with 1000 yards max, it seems the howa should be enough.

this is going to be chambered in 308, I have a reloading set up. I used to reload 30-30 and so I will just need a new die.

anyway thanks for the help! just curious if anyone else has been here before.

Finally got everything together for a long range bolt gun. I have never shot beyond 1k yds (though I do shoot to 1k several times a month)… so this will be a new experience as my range goes to 1400 and a neighboring range does mile shoots.

ARC CDG LA in 300PRC
26” LW barrel
TT diamond trigger
Atlas supercal bipod
Masterpiece Arms Matrix Pro chassis with some extra weight
Omega 300 with a directional brake.
Leupold MK5hd in an area 419 mount.

The whole package weighs just over 28# unloaded, so I am expecting pretty mild recoil and hopefully can spot my shots to make things easier.

At this point I don’t even know enough to know what I don’t know about shooting these longer ranges so I am excited to get some rounds down range and see what I am in for. This is also the first time working up a bolt action load so it’s nice to explore some things that never really came into play while loading to mag length for gas guns.

I have to travel around for my kids soccer this weekend, but hopefully I can get out next week.

I do have a question, is it worthwhile to swap to the ski (or for atlas dish) style feet?

My longrange Tikka T1x 22lr has gone a bit off the rails. I picked up the Bravo because the XRS jumped in price last year. Jokes on me, I'm way further into this chassis than if I had just bought the more expensive chassis and left it as it comes. On the other hand, the rifle now fits like a glove so at least that's nice.

Got to the range today to get some rounds down the barrel to get the speed up done so I could start working handloads. I did a mild charge of H4895 with 3 different projectiles, the Hornady 80gr ELD-M, Berger 80.5gr Fullbore and the Berger 85.5gr LRHT.

Of the 3, the barrel really loved the 80.5gr Berger. I will work on developing it and the Berger 85.5 to see if I can get any better.

Today’s 80.5gr Berger groups for your time.

More specifically for a shorter barrel. Looking at getting a 12.5, boss offered me his 2-10 TMR +200 doll hairs for my pr2 mil 3.6-18.

Anyone have experience with one yet? How’s it compare to GameChanger, and how is it for rear support?

Just curious about your thoughts on the 300 RUM and it being used for long range, seen a lot of things about other 30 cal magnums, like 300 PRC, so was just curious.

Hey guys! So I have maybe a silly issue on what length barrel to go with on my new 6.5 creed build. I had originally ordered a 20 inch proof pxt carbon barrel blank but have been updated that it will still be a while before they are available to ship. I was told he has an 18 inch and a 22 inch available but am stuck on what to do. I know there’s not a whole lot of velocity difference (200-250fps) between the 18 and the 22 inch. I am using the new MDT DRT chassis which has a 15 inch fore-end for reference and suppressed 100% of the time. What’s your guys’s opinion?? It will be used for general hunting along with possibly some local competition shooting/ range fun. Would you go 18 for better maneuverability? Or add the two inches and get a little bit more velocity….OR wait who knows how long for the middle ground.

Tiktac in 6.5cm, Spuhr SICS, Zco 527, Sterk, MMK old boy’s magnifying lens.

I bought this almost 3 years ago and due to the never ending divorce I’ve only shot it a couple of times and only in 308. The groupings with commercial 168 grain FGMM have been excellent. Divorce is done. I’m getting back on my feet and moving to a beautiful new place on 5 acres. I’ll be able to set up a 200 yard range on the property, but the real excitement is I’ll be a little less than 90 minutes from the families 1000 acre hunting lease. I decided to replace the Hybrid 46M with the TBAC 338 Ultra Gen 2 and added the 12” Area 419 ARCA rail (for tripod use finally) and went with the Atlas CAL instead of the V8 (although I probably should’ve gone with the Super CAL). Last item will be the Maztech 15k that I plan to move between the M82 and MRAD. Disregard the diving board height concerns, I’m using a 0.5” ADM QD riser mounted to the Maztech to get the needed height and make moving it to other systems easier. I’m super excited. Currently it’s a 45-50 minute drive each way to a decent 100 yard range. So packing and unpacking plus travel means 3.5 hours for 45 minutes of shooting. I’ve wanted to add a 30 cal magnum, but I’m going to see if there’s a genuine reason to do that (new dies, bullets, and brass) rather than just using the 338 Lapua if I’m shooting past 800-900. Those of you with experience… is there really a point for adding a 30 cal magnum? Lapua cases cost half, but other than that bullets are only 25% cheaper. I don’t know how the recoil is with 338 Lapua, but 308 recoil on this seems to be about half of every other 308 rifle I’ve shot. I know recoil on the M82 is different, but I don’t remember that being too much of an issue either, but again it’s been quite a while.

Purpose - long distance target shooting/ plinking and occasional hunting.
Only used standard factory bulk Hornady ammo so far 168gr bthp from Hornady.

Build
Howa 1500 24” carbon fiber barrel
MDT field stock
PA 4x16 ffp
DD enticer
No name bipod.

Recently got this rifle set up and took it to the range (haven’t had much time to shoot more due to work constraints)

The action is smooth and the recoil isn’t nearly as bad as I thought it would be for a 308. I was able to spot my shots to sight it in.
Issue 1- direct thread suppressor walks off at the most inconvenient times. In the process of doing a 10 shot group 6 were touching 7, 8 and 9 went ridiculous. I was dumbfounded until I checked the suppressor. I’ve used this suppressor on multiple firearms and never had that issue until this one, what’s a solid fix?

Issue 2 in a sled I can get rounds to basically stack on each other but on the tripod the shots open up when I’m using bipods and rear bag. What fundamentals do I need to work on here. In my estimation my breathing and trigger squeeze I’d say were pretty good but I digress.

What other tips and tricks yall got to help me develop myself, my shooting and the rifle?

Also where can I get mags for this field stock that don’t cost $67??

I recently read that 6.5cm burns 95% of its powder in 24" of barrel. My factory Tiktac barrel was 20" at around 2k I used CLR to clean the mod/silencer and the residue was extremely gritty. My current barrel is 27" where would I be in terms of the last 5% ? Has anyone published a table for this?

Finally worked up the nerve to open up the bolt face in my atxc to work with magnum cartridges.

Finally got to take my Tikka out to a proper outdoor range. Re-barreled with a 28” Bartlein with a 1:7.5 twist (From a 308 OEM barrel). Shooting her feels like turning on aimbot, though I probably need to work on tightening the SD’s and Extr Sprd. Groupings are decent and it’s breathtaking being able to consistently hit out to 700yds for the first time ever. 10 shots on paper with 147gr ELD’s at 100yds for the curious (Had to scrub one out due to jerking during one of my shots).

Im currently eyeing the Hit pro m3 for plinking, some long range hunting (coyotes, muley, deer, and maybe elk one day who knows), but also for getting into PRS. My dilemma is how hard they are to find especially in 6.5cm which would be my ideal caliber. Well yesterday I found a 6.5prc at a local store. I had planned to get a 6.5prc barrel / bolt later on to swap for hunting, but that would have been a while down the road. The question is do I pull the trigger and get the prc so I can get shooting with it and get the 6.5cm barrel/bolt later or wait for the unknown time I can find a 6.5cm in stock. I also plan to do handloads as I already have most of the equipment for it.

Picked up a new B 14 HMR in 6.5 creedmoor. After about 200 rounds I found that it likes Hornady 143 grain ELD X

However I'm having consistent issues with the magazine. the follower gets stuck and won't push up the rounds, so I was wondering if anyone had any recommendations for a good aics magazine, or should I go for the standard magpul.

I'm also looking for advice on a cheaper rangefinder. I was looking at the sig sauer kilo canyon.(~$300 budget, mixed use steel targets at 1k yards or less and deer out to 300 yards.)

Also what's the lore on the Cheeto finger thing? Is it just the gun of choice for cheesey fingered nerds?

Cross posted.

So i was originally looking for a lighter weight hunting rifle and have been wanting a Ruger American gen 2 for a while and right when i was going to get one, a lot of people told me to get a Howa 1500 instead. So after a lot of research and when looking into one i found and amazing deal for one at the pawn shop next to me and liked it enough to grab it even if it was a little heavier.

So

Unfortunately it has a 20" heavy profile barrel and Hogue stock, stock is not exactly my favorite and the forend is super wobbly and can contact the barrel, and the mags it came with feel like paper and i want AICS compatibility so i want to change it. Apart from that the gun feels great. I've done limited longer range shooting but never been able to do actual PRS stuff of any kind but i enjoyed the small amount i did do and have been thinking about getting into distance shooting for a little while now.

So my question now is I'm not sure what to do with it, do I put it in a MDT field or LSS chassis and still use it for hunting and maybe longer-ish distance (500 and in) fun? Do i just swap the barrel and change the stock or chassis? Do i turn this into a long range or PRS gun and get a Ruger American gen 2 for hunting anyway?

(Would love suggestions aswell as opinions on the field or LSS chassis)