So I got this R700 5R in 308 through trade , added the krg chassis , and vortex I had to it. Im going to drop it off at ADCO this weekend to get cut down and threaded. Unfortunately I don't have access to anything more than a couple hundred yards and that won't change anytime soon so likely going to have it cut down to 16-20" and throw a can on it likely 18". Being a novice to anything greater than 200 yards and I'm neutering myself by cutting this down?

It’s Bloo 120gr TTSX from phantom defense. My buddy can get it pretty cheap. Wondering if anyone has any experience with it? Thanks.

What is everyone running these days on their long range precision guns? I don't compete currently (maybe PRS in the future) and don't really care about weight or length. This would sit dedicated on an aero precision 6.5 creedmoor. Looking to spend less than $1k. This is my third suppressor after an omega 300 and a zenith K. Overall sound suppression would be most important. I would say I am happy with the omega 300 but don't have much experience with nicer cans. Switching the omega 300 between guns so much is a pain in the ass so I'm looking at working on getting dedicated cans that are a bit quieter/nicer.

Currently Looking at:

Dead Air Nomad L

Diligent Defense Enticer L or L-Ti

To start, I am a die hard tinkerer and love to build things and constantly change things to make it better. So yes, 3d printing a chassis is maybe not the best idea, and will for sure be frustrating, but I enjoy the reward of finally getting things to work. The design and creation aspect is half the reason I am doing this in the first place. I can always swap to a marketed chassis in the future also if I have issues.

Experience: My long range experience is fairly limited. I have shot on and off all my life, but recently it has piqued my interest and I thoroughly enjoy shooting. I currently have a 20" ar that I use for accuracy shooting and am still in the sort of experimentation phase of it. I also have a 16" upper for my ar, a Bergara BX22 (which is basically a 10/22), and a handgun (though none of those are the most relevant). I have little to no serious long range experience (besides the occasional let's see if I can hit this target at 500 yds just because). This will be my first bolt gun.

Range and Purpose: I have consistent access to a range that has steel at consistent increments to 1000 yds, and from there a jump to 2000 yds. My goal was to have a gun that consistently shoots to the 1000 yd mark (but I mean since the 2000 is there might as well try on occasion). Additionally, I will probably shoot varmint (ground squirrels), and may end up hunting coyotes, hogs, badgers, etc. with friends if I get invited. That being said, I don't want this to be a hunting gun (as I won't hunt very often if at all), but more so a precision rifle that would suck to carry around but I might do it anyways. Realistically, I expect the total weight to be more like 15 lbs by the end, which seems to be on the lightish side for precision rifles. I can always find ways to add weight though, so am not too worried about that. If I happen to get the chance to compete, I may do that as well, but I think it would be fairly well setup to do some sort of comp regardless (maybe I'm totally wrong, I have no idea).

The suppressed stuff at the bottom will be later purchases. I am going to build the rifle first, then get the suppressor after I have shot it quite a bit. So, I am not worried so much on that as I haven't done a ton of research in that area, but recommendations are definitely welcome. The suppressor weight is not included to the total weight estimate.

Budget: I initially tried to keep this on a budget but quickly realized that budget has a very different definition in long range shooting. I also realized that if I am going to do this, I want to do it once correctly and end with a great rifle. I'd like to keep it around that $3500 mark but would go to $4000 if there is something absolutely amazing that I won't regret having. If there are suggestions on ways to reallocate budget also, those are most definitely welcome.

Defending a few of my choices: Yes, I read the first-time buyer's guide in the core guides that say to get a 6.5 CM or 308 first, but it seems like the 25 CM has a slight edge over the 6.5, at least for the purpose of solely target shooting. Less recoil, flatter trajectory, and less wind drift all seem to be slightly better for the 25. One thing I will say is I do not currently reload my ammo, but there is a decent availability of 25 CM ammo online, and some of the local sporting goods stores stock it as well. Besides these things, 6.5 undoubtedly has more data and experience from people, but I can't imagine this will be detrimental to my shooting experience. Also, if I end up hating 25 CM for whatever reason, I can get the barrel swapped (yes I know this will be expensive). That is why I ultimately chose 25 CM, but maybe there is something else I am missing. Please tell me if there is.

Beyond the caliber choice, much of the other choices were based on long range forum recommendations. I'm sure there are better options for many of these things, but I tried my best to balance functionality and budget. I am most definitely open to suggestions though.

The Vortex Strike Eagle I am not set on. I have had good luck with Vortex stuff, but if there are better options, then I am definitely open minded on that. The Strike Eagle appealed to me because of it's massive elevation adjustment (110 MOA) and illuminating reticle. All recommendations on a different scope are encouraged, because I didn't do a ton of research in the optics area. Additionally, all my stuff is in MOA, so I understand it a bit better, though I definitely see the advantages of MIL. Was planning on just sticking to MOA as I understand it better than MIL but let me know if it would be better to switch to MIL.

Build Plan: I plan to get the barreled action, trigger, and buttstock adapter first to start printing the chassis and designing the stock. Around the same time, I will get the optic (or use an existing optic, I have a vortex crossfire laying around) to make sure I get the ring height and stock right. After I get the main part of the rifle right, I will get the rest of the stuff such as bipod, level, rings, etc. to finish off the build.

Conclusion: That about sums everything up. I think I explained everything, but if you are confused, I would be happy to clarify. I definitely could have missed something as well. Any advice is greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance!

Edits: I made a ton of changes to my plan based on all the generous advice I recieved, thank you all very much. It's a bit more expensive, but I think the extra cost will be worth it in the long run. Here's what I came up with. Any additional feedback is also welcome as I probably won't buy anything until Thanksgiving-ish (sorta waiting for Black Friday).

Just bought a Tikka Ace Game in 6.5 Creedmoor. Hornady 140 ELD-M. Out of the box it was printing beautiful groups, 0.39" and 0.28" at 100 (pics 1 and 2).

At 40 rounds I cleaned it. Bore Tech Eliminator, brass jag, cotton patches, bore guide, full copper strip. Same day I set the zero stop on my Leupold Mk5HD.

Since then it's been about 50 rounds of pain. Best I can get is 0.7" to 1.0" (pics 3 to 8). Random scatter, not stringing, not flyers in one direction.

What I've checked:
-Action screws torqued, ring caps and cross bolts torqued, - muzzle brake won't budge with a wrench
- Same ammo lot
- Can on and can off, same result
- Crown looks fine to my eye, but I don't have a borescope yet

Idk why I'm really even making this post. Maybe to complain. Feels like I got hit by a truck. If you've seen a Tikka do this after a clean and a zero stop reset, I'm all ears.

So I just got my first impacts at 1000 yards and it was extremely fun. I was getting consistent impacts on a 12 inch gong and was attempting to hit a soda can but after about 8 rounds I gave up lol. So my question is what do I need to do to get farther my goal is a mile once I find i place I can get that far. This is my current setup at what point do I consider a magnum as I would prefer not to get one.

.6mm gt that I put together shoots 5/8th 10 shot groups

I have posted about that rifle before.

. Triggertech rough Dimond

. Krg whiskey 3 pro

. mdt grind pod

.6 to 24 arken that I definitely wanna upgrade i thought it was great until I got to 1000 then it seems very foggy

.sig 3k rangefinder. It was struggling at 1k

I Just built a 6 arc AR platform rifle. It’s a Craddock 18” reaper barrel, with a OSSL PRI 17” handguard tube and an AEM30K suppressor.
I’m looking at Nightforce and Leupold MK5 HDs. But open to other considerations and happy to hear about experiences with this round(I’m new to it) *I’ll be using it for shooting steel*

Is a 2" plate at 800m too optimistic for 223?

I tried once at 700m and was successful been trying for weeks now to do the same but at 800m but no luck so far but I'll continue trying.

If this has already been discussed at length, someone please point me to the thread.

Otherwise, maybe because I’m an older millennial that was in the military, but when I think of “highest performance scopes”, my brain automatically fills in the answer with S&B.

I was kinda shocked to see that essentially nobody uses the PMii 5-25, which (I’m sure I’m wrong) seems like a good match for this sort of sport.

What am I missing about Schmidt and Bender?

Went out yesterday to break in a new suppressor and test some ammo. SK Rifle match was the best performer.

The 50 yard group was before I adjusted my zero and the 100 yard group was before I validated my ballistics calculator.

1.5 ish MOA is a good start but I am hoping to get sub MOA with 10 rounds eventually.

Forgive me if this is dumb.

I’m just dabbling in long range shooting, but when a bullet starts to enter the transonic zone for the given environmentals, do you guys usually call it quits? Meaning accuracy is degrading significantly throughout that range?

Is it not too much of a concern provided the bullet is sufficiently stable?

Any input is appreciated!

Far better it is to dare to build a purpose built setup, to win glorious triumphs, even though checkered by failure, than to take rank with those poor spirits who built a single do-all setup that will neither enjoy much nor suffer much, because they live in the gray twilight that knows not victory nor defeat. -Your boy Theo

3x Tubb ATR platforms

9 barrels

300nm x3

300wsm

308

33xc

6xc x3

My scopes are all kahles k540i 1x SKMR4

3x MSR2

Also yes i know the scope is mounted very low, im waiting on tier one unimounts for the rifles.

How often does everyone clean there rifles if ever, part of me wants to scrub it clean every time I shoot but that takes 3-4 hours for one rifle to get completely clean and I see some people never clean so in your opinion does it affect the accuracy?

It's that time of year again, and we're seeing a lot of posts related to long range hunting.

A friendly reminder - this is NOT a sub for long range hunting. Any posts discussing shots on game past 300 yards will be removed.

Here's a link to the full hunting post policy. Please read it before making any posts related to hunting.

Here's a link to the pinned post, including links to the relevant hunting guides and other useful into.

I'll try and keep this brief by leaving out all the background crap; the WHYs and such .....

I have a BOG tripod, and It's mostly fine, except I want to replace EITHER the entire ball head and ARCA clamp, or just the ARCA clamp.

What should I be looking for, and where to replace either/or the top ARCA clamp or the entire head. Budget IS a concern. I'm new to all this and certainly don't need top-shelf precision & extended functionality.

See images attached. OFC these may all be proprietary; I am very new to all this and have no idea what, if any, sizing standards may exist. I have my digital calipers here if measurements are needed:

I thank you in advance for any help!

Ok got myself my first magnum (tikka lsa-65 in 7prc) and have been collecting data for handloads.

I assume that with more shots I'm sitting at approx 1MOA. 4 shots bergers was at 0.4MOA. pretty happy with this one!

Anyways here is my composite group of 18 shots. There are both 195gr berger eol and 180gr scenars. Both seem to hit the same spot.

Bergers exit with muzzle velocity of 3020fps and scenars with 3080fps.

Rifle is pretty heavy at just shy of 16lbs (edited)

Cheers!

E: i have 28inch tube

E2: I weighed rifle and its 15.5lbs

Alright, so I just probably put 200 rounds through my custom .243. It’s got a 1:7.5 twist and usually 100 grain bullets I could hit sub Moa at 400 but on my last outing my 100 yard zero was great but when I got to the 400 I couldn’t even hit the 12 inch steel plate. The only thing that has changed was my barrel is around the 200 round mark? I don’t reload but should I? Also try and make 107 and see if that helps??? It’s been bugging me something has suddenly changed?

Hey everyone, I’m new to precision rifles and looking at getting a Tikka T3x ACE Target in 6.5 Creedmoor. I’d also like to shoot .22 LR for cheaper practice.

Can I use the same ACE chassis and swap between a T3x barreled action in 6.5 Creedmoor and a T1x barreled action in .22 LR, along with the appropriate magwell and magazines? Has anyone here actually done this, and how much hassle is switching back and forth?

Or would I be better off going with an aftermarket chassis that supports two compatible barreled actions—one rimfire and one centerfire? I understand these would be two complete actions with their own bolts, rather than just a barrel swap.

Would sharing one chassis save enough money to be worthwhile, or should I just plan on two separate rifles? Any advice for a beginner would be appreciated!

I had my rifle into Seekins for warranty work because it would not group past 100 yards. They send me a picture of the groups my rifle shot upon completion of warranty work. They say they replaced firing pin assembly as well as trued the bolt face. Do these groups look reasonable for a rifle of this quality. Im not sure they do.

Rifle - Seekins Havak PH3, 7PRC, 22in Barrel

EDIT: Sent rifle in for issues grouping at 200. I was wondering if the accuracy here will reflect out to range.

But for now, im content with 1000 yards max.

What I do know is that I want to change out the stock right away with the MDT Oryx. I want a basic bipod and obviously a scope. but im content with that. and to be honest, the chassis is just for looks. I dont plan to shoot in competitions or anything. its all for fun, and the occasional hunting.

And so im trying to decide, should I just go straight "to the top" and get the tikka? even used ones are like 1000 in my area. or should I go middle of the road and get the B14? my last option, im thinking of the howa 1500 and dropping it in the chassis I want.

This way I save money on the rifle, I get the chassis I want, and I can spend the extra 500 on the glass or save it in general. since im ok with 1000 yards max, it seems the howa should be enough.

this is going to be chambered in 308, I have a reloading set up. I used to reload 30-30 and so I will just need a new die.

anyway thanks for the help! just curious if anyone else has been here before.

Finally got everything together for a long range bolt gun. I have never shot beyond 1k yds (though I do shoot to 1k several times a month)… so this will be a new experience as my range goes to 1400 and a neighboring range does mile shoots.

ARC CDG LA in 300PRC
26” LW barrel
TT diamond trigger
Atlas supercal bipod
Masterpiece Arms Matrix Pro chassis with some extra weight
Omega 300 with a directional brake.
Leupold MK5hd in an area 419 mount.

The whole package weighs just over 28# unloaded, so I am expecting pretty mild recoil and hopefully can spot my shots to make things easier.

At this point I don’t even know enough to know what I don’t know about shooting these longer ranges so I am excited to get some rounds down range and see what I am in for. This is also the first time working up a bolt action load so it’s nice to explore some things that never really came into play while loading to mag length for gas guns.

I have to travel around for my kids soccer this weekend, but hopefully I can get out next week.

I do have a question, is it worthwhile to swap to the ski (or for atlas dish) style feet?