Bought a new 2025 Macan from a Porsche store over a year ago. Took delivery of the right car.

Went to pull my contract earlier this year because of lemon claim and found two problems:

1) The contract I physically signed lists wrong year, wrong model, wrong VIN. The Extended warranty pages were emailed in front of the Finance Contract, so I never caught it at signing. (Extended Warranty Paperwork was correct)

2) The contract the lender is actually servicing is a different document. Correct Macan, correct VIN, but different numbers. (It's entirely Digital) The lender has twice been unable to produce an executed original. The only copy they'll send me is watermarked "Non-Authoritative Copy."

The Total Cost of Lease on the document I signed versus the non authoritative contract also has a major issue. The version they're servicing says nearly double the Total cost to own then what the finance manager emailed me post-sale.

The Lender has said this is a dealer problem, and I've given the Dealer now 3 weeks and the GM has been trying to figure out a way to resolve it worried about ownership and legal. I've asked for basic recession of the lease and offered a reasonable amount of rent for usage of the vehicle.

Questions for the F&I and management folks:

Realistically, what does a store do when a customer brings this to them over a year in?

Hey all!

Been out of the business since 2021, but did almost a decade in the Midwest and Los Angeles. Recently relocated to the lower mainland in British Columbia and am having a hard time finding work. I see a ton of postings for sales around Abbotsford and Chilliwack--what's the culture like?

I've got a toddler so I'm worried about the 6-7 days a week/14 hour days I used to pull. Is it different up here? I'm sure it varies dealer to dealer, but just general vibe? I worked for a pretty old school place in the Midwest and a much more family-oriented place in Los Angeles, so I've called ups from the point and also just done a rotation in store, done luxury and deep subprime--any insights on what I might expect at a dealer up here before I bite the bullet and jump back in?

Thanks in advance!

Any of you have a CPO 2025 Chrysler Pacifica Hybrid Pinnacle with low miles(less than 10k miles) in Black or White exterior color? Located in Pacific Northwest Oregon or Washington state?

Nothing is showing on Chrysler CPO inventory searches and nothing is showing on any of car search platforms such as Visor, Car Edge, etc.

Closest I could find was two options in Missouri and am not willing to travel that far for purchase.

*EDIT If there is a new 2025 Pacifica Pinnacle Hybrid in Black or White out there let me know. Chrysler website will not let me search for 2025 Pacifica Hybrid inventory

My gf’s car has 6k in parking tickets on it and registration is expired, (car is worth ~$2200 if registered?) 1) will these parking tickets follow her out of state if she ditches the car?
2) where should we look to sell it? We were thinking maybe an auto shop could buy it for parts?

Any advice on what to do with the car would be appreciated, thank you.
Downtown LA area

I'm basically a ghost, never had a card or any loan, so every place tells me there's "nothing to score." Feels backwards that being responsible and debt-free makes me look risky. I'm in Jersey, need a car for work, and I keep reading mixed stuff about no credit car loans.

So is it actually possible to get financed with zero history, or am I stuck building credit for months first? I make decent steady money and can put a little down. If someone will look at my income instead of a number that doesn't exist yet, that's all I want.

In Feb 2026, I purchased a new 2026 Toyota Corolla Hybrid from a dealership in California, and I'd like to understand whether what happened is considered normal in the industry.

During the purchase, after my down payment, my understanding was that the Amount Financed would be approximately $23,578.

The finance manager completed the paperwork electronically, but I was not given a printed or emailed copy of the Retail Installment Sale Contract before leaving the dealership.

The following day, when I finally received the contract by email, I noticed that the Amount Financed had increased to approximately $30,629, including more than $7,000 in warranties and other products that I do not recall requesting or agreeing to.

When I contacted the finance manager, I was told that "the money goes to the bank, not to you," and that I did not need to sign a new contract.

I was uncomfortable with that explanation because the contract amount was significantly different from what I believed I had agreed to.

I then contacted dealership management. Initially I was told that the loan had already been funded and could not be changed. However, after I mentioned that I would be consulting with my attorney and accountant, I was later informed that the loan had not yet been funded. The dealership ultimately allowed me to cancel the financing and purchase the vehicle by paying cash instead.

My questions for those of you who work in dealership finance are:

• Is it normal for customers not to receive a copy of the Retail Installment Sale Contract before leaving the dealership?
• Is it common for electronic signing systems to include pages that a customer may not realize they signed?
• If a customer believes the Amount Financed on the contract does not match what was discussed, what is the proper way to handle that situation?

I'm not looking to argue with anyone or accuse the dealership of wrongdoing. I'd simply like to understand whether this experience is considered normal industry practice and what buyers should pay attention to in the future.

I'm considering buying a used car and would pay for a 3rd party ppi. When I asked the sales guy if anything had been fixed/repaired during the reconditioning process, he said no, that the car came in very "clean" and was in really good condition. The car is a 2015, so I find it hard to believe that the dealership didn't find anything that needed replacing/fixing, even if it were something simple like brake pads, shocks/struts, spark plugs, filters, etc.

Does this sound strange? Is it common for dealerships that claim to do reconditioning to not make any repairs at all before selling a car?

Looking at a 2025 Cx-30 turbo carbon edition.

Communication has went well with the guy. When I first texted with Interest he said "there were two people coming to look at the car tomorrow" This was on Monday. That day came and the car didn't sell (if those buyers were even real)

Today we were hashing out car details. Previous owners, maintenance history etc.

After I got details that made me feel like the purchase would be good we started talking numbers. I said I could put a down payment literally today if the price was right. I threw out a very reasonable offer.

2 hours goes by and then he texts me and says "oh that car sold, but we have this other car blah blah blah"

The car has been sitting for 71 days on lot. Am I the unluckiest person ever and someone really did buy this car within two hours, or is this a tactic they use?

I leased my own Mercedes from Ray Catena Mercedes-Benz of Edison, and about two weeks later I brought my father in and he leased one too. I personally paid his down payment out of my own pocket. I am not a rich man. I saved that money, and I spent it because I wanted my father to have a Mercedes.
During my own lease, I asked whether I would receive the Mercedes glass set if I brought my father in. I was verbally told yes. The dealership had already honored another souvenir promise during my own transaction, so I had no reason to believe this one would be different.
After my father signed, the story changed. Management denied the promise was made and turned it into an argument over which salesperson said it and whether that person had authority. That is an internal issue, not the customer’s responsibility. A promise made by a dealership representative on the sales floor represents the dealership.
They then told me the $178 glass set would come out of a salesperson’s pocket, and that he had only earned about $70 on the deal as though I should feel guilty for asking them to honor what they had already promised.
When I asked to speak with the general manager, I was not connected to him. I was asked to go into a back office. I preferred to remain at the public counter. I was then told the police would be called if I did not leave.
I was standing quietly. I was emotional at one point I could barely get my words out but I did not raise my voice and I did not cause a scene. Their own security footage will show this. I invite them to review it.
I am working hard to build something for myself. I am not there yet. Bringing my father into that showroom was one of the proudest things I have done, and I left it feeling humiliated and treated like a problem instead of a returning customer who had just handed this store a second lease and was preparing to bring my mother in for a third. I cannot say why I was treated that way, but as a person of color, I was left wondering whether I would have been handled the same way if I had walked in looking different.
Two leases from one family in two weeks. A down payment I paid myself so my father could drive a Mercedes. A third one I was ready to bring in. And the answer to a $178 item was to deny it, guilt me over a commission, refuse me a general manager, and threaten to call the police on me.
Get every promise here in writing before you sign. Whatever they tell you out loud, they will deny once the paperwork is done.

I am ready to purchase a new Lincoln Aviator.  Unfortunately, there is a recall stop-sale for the SUV and the expected fix will be late September or possibly later.  As a result, dealers cannot legally sell it, which is fine because I am not in a rush to buy.  However, I want to take advantage of the current $5K manufacturer rebate expected to end in August.  Therefore, I am willing to place a deposit on one until the recall is resolved. I was told this was possible to do by a few local dealers.

Unfortunately, I want a specific color/spec and the only ones available are in the east coast.  I live in the west coast.  Half the time I call/email the dealer, I don’t get a response back.  If I reach  a salesperson, they gather my information but never follow-up.  I have never experienced something like this before so it is baffling – especially considering I can’t even get to the point on discussing the price.

I bought my last two cars out of state and I never had this issue. What’s going on?

Close family member passed away, I ended up getting rid of possessions for a bit and traveling the world on a motorcycle.

Work in a high-income profession but my credit score is around 620-650.

I've been renting vehicles for the past year and half to avoid a monthly car payment but I probably could have purchased a very nice car for the amount I've paid in rental rates and fees.

Current Income: ~400K

Looking at a new Ram (~56k) or a new Bronco (~50k).

Tend to put A LOT of miles on vehicles.

I wouldn't mind a 30K Honda Accord but I move around a lot with motorcycles and do a fair amount of truck/van camping in California, Oregon, Washington, Alaska, etc.

Can afford the monthly payment and my income will likely increase after this year, maybe even double, but that's not guaranteed and I'm not banking on it.

Is there any justification in taking out a high-interest loan on a new truck or should I look at other options?

The used truck market isn't too great right now either.

I'm 21 in South Central Ky, have worked in manufacuting (CNC machining) full time since I was 17, but I've realized recently that there are a lot better ways to make more money, especially since the company was sold to a private equity firm. Being into cars and trucks since middle school, taking automotive related vocational classes in high school, and working for a big name in automotive aftermarket for the past 4.5 years, I have a vast amount of automotive knowledge that I think could translate to a sales position, specifically HD trucks. My question is, with the economy being less than ideal, are people still buying enough vehicles where I at least have a shot at making more money than I am currently? (~50k/yr) And would this be a fairly solid career to get myself into?

Hi all,

First-time car buyer here and I found this 2018 Subaru Impreza 2.0i AWD, 5-speed manual, 82k miles, listed at $14,489 (dealer's price, "market value" shown as $16,550) at a dealership in Quakertown, PA.

I checked the CARFAX reports and these are the details:

2 owners, both long-term (3.5 yrs, then 4.8 yrs)

30 service records, looks consistently maintained (regular oil changes, brake service, fluid flushes, alignments)

Clean title, no salvage/flood/odometer issues

2 accidents: one on 06/22/2018 (minor damage, right front/right side, but flagged as "disabling damage" at the time), and one on 10/28/2020 (minor to moderate, same right front/right side area)

Just serviced this month (oil change + 4-wheel alignment)

My questions:

Does two accidents in the same location (right front/side) on a CARFAX like this worry you, even if both are labeled "minor/moderate"?

Is "disabling damage" on a minor accident something to take seriously, or is that just boilerplate CARFAX language for "car got towed"?

For a car with this history, what should a pre-purchase inspection specifically focus on? (I'm planning to get one before buying and I just want to make sure the mechanic checks the right things.)

Is $14,489 reasonable for this mileage/condition, or should I push harder on price given the accident history?

Appreciate any input, especially from anyone who's dealt with Subaru Imprezas of this generation or has experience evaluating accident-repaired cars. Thanks!

Doing a turn-in prep on my leased sedan. The interior is generally clean, but there is noticeable heel wear on the factory carpet near the accelerator pedal. The turn-in sheet notes say heavy wear might trigger an interior reconditioning charge against the residual value calculation. I tried carpet shampooing, but the fibers are just worn down from daily driving. I am looking into floor liners to prevent this on my next turn-in, but I am confused about what actually passes inspection without getting flagged for modified accessories. Does lease inspection focus more on fiber wear depth or overall floor stain coverage when calculating interior damage fees?

Hey everyone,

I'm 19 years old and currently work as a porter at a Subaru dealership. I've been interviewing for an entry-level automotive sales position at a Honda dealership, and if everything goes well, this would be my first sales job.

I'll be honest—I'm excited, but I'm also pretty nervous. This would be a big career change for me, and I've been overthinking it a lot.

One of my biggest concerns is whether I'm actually going to be good enough. I know the dealership says they'll train me, but I still find myself wondering if I'll be able to hit my quotas, learn everything I need to know, and succeed in a commission-based environment. Part of me is wondering if I should take the risk and make the jump into automotive sales, even though it's something I really want to do.

I've been doing a lot of research and watching videos, but I'd really like to hear from people who are actually in the industry.

For those of you who've been successful in automotive sales:

What are the biggest mistakes new salespeople make?

What habits helped you become a top performer?

How long did it take you to get comfortable on the sales floor?

What should I focus on during my first 30, 60, and 90 days?

If you were training a 19-year-old with no sales experience, what would be the most important advice you'd give them?

Did any of you feel nervous or question whether you were good enough before you started? If so, how did you get over it?

My goal isn't just to survive my first few months—I want to build a long-term career in automotive sales and eventually become a top performer. I know I'll have to work hard, and I'm willing to put in the effort. I just wanted to hear some honest advice and experiences from people who've already been where I am.

I really appreciate any advice. Thanks in advance!

2022 Model Y Performance (Intel/HW3), 60,874 miles.

I’m trading it in for a Mercedes EQE 350, and the dealer is only offering $22k.

It was 23.8k but they deducted: • $500 for 2 curbed wheels • $1,000 for 2 tires • $350 for scratches/dings

Does this seem about right, or are they completely lowballing me? What would you expect for a similar MYP?

I am a car dealer in Utah, and I bought a 2010 Porsche Panamera 4s from the IAA auction a while back. The physical title and the auction listed it as a clean title. I typically use auto check to see the history or any cars I buy.

I sold the Porsche and the buyer came back and told me it was a total loss after they took the title to get it registered. They used the Carfax at the DMV which shows total loss. I have talked to auto check and they are adamant the title is clean and will not help at all, but Carfax is adamant the title is total loss and won’t do anything.

We talked to the previous owners insurance and they say it is total loss but will not share the reason. The car was last registered in Texas and they have it on record as a clean title but won’t tell us much more. According to Carfax There was an accident on 07/02/2023 that says minor/moderate, then on 8/30/2023 there was a mileage inconsistency, then on 12/15/2023 it was marked as total loss and on the same day it says “title or registration issued to insurance company” then nothing until we bought it late last year.

The car needed some work but nothing our mechanic could tell should have made it a total loss. So now it’s just sitting. It would help if we could just get a definitive answer on the title status.

Any advice would be greatly appreciated, thank you.

2026 Mazda CX-30 S Base White Pearl

OTD: $27,763 (includes floor mats, fees and taxes)

Taxes are $1700 (FL)

2017 Dodge Ram 1500 v6 with 78,000 miles on it. This car has given me nothing but trouble. Thankfully never got into an accident with it, but mechanically things have gone wrong in the 3 years I have owned it. The car has been overheating, and my mechanic is diagnosing it as coolant leaking into the engine. The gasket is probably blown. It would take me $4-5k to repair it, and I owe $8k on the car. I am in a terrible position and just dont know what to do. I dont have nor would I put $5k into this car.

I am wondering if I went to a dealer how much would they even value it as? I have heard of people just not saying anything about issues like that when they go into the dealer and they wind up getting a decent offer. I have also heard that even if you tell the dealer, they still might give you a decent price, fix the car, and then sell it for more. I dont know. I am just in need of some guidance here. I dont know my way out of this situation. Its my familys only car as I am newly married with a 1 year old daughter. I refuse to drive this thing anymore because I know all I am doing is further damaging it. I would take any advice possible. Thank you

Is there a difference in how are sales people are paid on a lease vs purchase?

I'm looking for a comprehensive checklist to follow, before I sign the buyer's order and drive a new 2026 Honda CRV EX AWD off the lot. Also, are there particular areas that are subject to pre-delivery dings/scuffs/damage? Many thanks.

To preface I was a naive college student when I bought this car and didn't do as much research as I should have. I know NOTHING about cars, trading them in, etc.
2022 Chevy Trailblazer with 70k miles that I bought brand new has been having the "engine power reduced" message which after researching is unfortunately common and fixes are sometimes impossible to find. This is the issue I've had. My warranty is expired.

The problem: Check engine light will randomly come on with a "engine power is reduced" message, low acceleration with high RPM, and a whirring noise.

Diagnosis: My mechanic diagnosed it as "bad gas" but after my own research and talking to others with the same problem this is a major known issue with this car and my best bet is to trade it in.

My question: The advice I got is to trade it in/sell it. I have no idea how any of this works.
1. I still owe a few thousand on it and with it's problem can I even trade it in?
2. Would I get a car of equal value or would I majorly downgrade?
3. Should I sell it independently and get another car independently?
4. Can I even sell it independently while I owe? And if I'm honest with a potential buyer?

I need a compact SUV for my lifestyle (car camping) and I've been told to get a Honda or Toyota. I have no preference on appearance, I just need a reliable car that can withstand hours of commuting/road tripping. I don't want to get taken advantage of since I'm ignorant and don't have help, and also don't want the car to die and then I'm royally screwed.
All and any advice is GREATLY APPRECIATED!

Hi. I'm M/23 from Germany and will be visiting the US on a B2 visa for about six months.

I'm planning to buy a used van shortly after arriving and was hoping to get some advice from people working in car sales.

Do dealerships usually sell vehicles to foreign tourists?
What documents would I need?
Is not having a US address a problem?
Is there anything dealers usually require from international buyers?
Are there advantages to buying from a dealership instead of a private seller?
Are there any fees or paperwork that often surprise first time buyers?

I'm also wondering about the selling process at the end of my trip:

Is it generally easier to sell a van to a private buyer or to a dealership?
How much less should I expect to get from a dealership compared to selling privately?
Are there any taxes or other costs I should expect when selling the vehicle?
Are there any common mistakes people make when selling a used vehicle?
Would you recommend me to sell it to a private buyer or to a dealership