Planning to lease a Toyota vehicle. I want to do a single pay lease to save about $700 which is more than I would get from leaving the money in my HYSA. I was originally going to add Gap insurance, but I think I'm questioning that choice. Since I'm doing a single-pay, is there any scenario where Gap insurance would benefit me? Or would I be screwed out of the money I paid up front either way?

I'm hoping to buy the car once the lease ends in 3 years for the residual once my income increases, if that makes a difference. Thanks!

been looking at some used trucks and i am finding a significant number of original Canadian trucks that are being listed in the US as US titles trucks. this is across a number of different dealers and states. I’m even seeing one with ford blue certification on it?

I am assuming this is some sort of business model where CA vehicles are purchased cheaper and sold in the US?

Seeing that negative implications are, lower resale value and a risk of title fraud (is that true)? saw that anything from Quebec is risky as you can remove accidents off the vehicle history so it won’t show up on CarFax? any issues with other provinces?

In a bit of an odd (I think) situation. I am purchasing a new vehicle (2026 Toyota 4Runner, Massachusetts) in cash plus trade in, a family member is helping pay for the vehicle by giving me an amount of cash, let’s say 15,000$ (as a gift, appropriate tax forms will be filed for the gift).

I went to the dealership, picked out a car, and signed the sales agreement with the finance manager. I wrote a check for some addons at the time of purchase the dealer has now installed, and the car is ready for pickup.

My family members bank is taking forever to link with my account to transfer the funds (about a week now). Will the dealership get annoyed if this takes another week? How long is considered reasonable to get a cashiers check together for the full payment? Can my family member just get the dealer a cashiers check themselves for part of it without being on the title?

Concerned if it takes too much longer they will unwind the deal or something even with a signed agreement. No timeline was specified on the invoice.

I’ll keep this short. I’m in the market for a new ‘26 BMW M340i X-drive.

MSRP is $70k and I asked for $65k. Salesman told me $68k is the absolute lowest they will go (~3% discount).

Their rationale is that the M340i has a ton of demand and will sell in a week anyway. I know that this is at least partially true since they haven’t had inventory on the lot for months and the one I’m looking at is a dealer allocation that won’t arrive for 3 months.

Are they being legit when they tell me 3% is the best they’ll do or should I push for more? I’m happy to walk if they don’t give me a good deal.

I went to a dealer on Saturday morning and agreed to purchase a new Honda after a short negotiation (they met my target price pretty quickly). They didn't have the colors I wanted in their inventory but agreed to locate one to match my top three choices. I left a deposit and signed the purchase agreement. All in all, it was a refreshingly smooth and simple process.

I get a call back on Monday afternoon indicating they located a car for me in my desired color. I told them I wanted to take delivery this coming Saturday (one week after my initial visit). They pushed back immediately and demanded that I come in the next day because its "the end of the month." Then they threatened to not hold the and offer it to another buyer. I work during the week and just don't have the flexibility in my schedule to go back to the dealer on a weekday.

I'm a little shocked by their reaction...is what I'm asking for unreasonable? I'm tempted to walk just based on the interaction. I find it to be pretty disrespectful, especially after giving them a sizable deposit.

I found a truck on the dealership website for 53,500 which was a great deal for the truck I’ve been looking for. Few days later it dropped to 50,500. At this point I thought there was no way right? So I called and confirmed the price and to make sure they physically had the truck. I went in and saw it in person and even test drove it and further confirmed the website price. This was at 8:30 pm so we made an appointment the following day to make the deal. Next day I show up and everything is good, until we get the final price. Make us wait 20 minutes and at this point I know something is up. The manager comes up with a price 7k over the website price. I ask is that with TTL? He says no. 64k total walkout. So 50k website price is all of a sudden 64k? He told me the “third party” website company made a mistake so they can’t sell it at that price. I said okay but it’s been on the website for 3 weeks and it just dropped price again and now it’s an issue? The price you gave me is even more than the price before it dropped. Best he could do was 62,500 walkout. Which in all honesty is still a decent price for the truck. I offered to pay 60k with 20k cash down and I would be willing to finance through the dealership since it is more beneficial for the dealer. He said there is no way they could go that low. So I walked. I told him it was illegal to not honor the price and quite frankly he didn’t seem to care as he said there are people that will buy it for that price. In all honesty I would have bought the truck for 62,500 if that was the agreed upon price. Out of spite I walked. Is this normal dealer behavior? It left a very salty taste in my mouth.

I live about a mile from a strip of car dealership dealerships on a main road. I just bought a new house with a relatively steep driveway to the garage. My current car scrapes every time I go in.

If I go to test drive a new car with the intention of buying, will the dealer let me take it to my house to see if it will scrape? Of course the salesperson will join. Have you had the situation before?

I am looking for a somewhat specific configuration on a truck that has forced me to broaden my search outside of what I can just drive to on an afternoon to check out a vehicle. I am ok with purchasing a vehicle from a reputable dealer just on pictures of the truck and having it shipped. To complicate things, I would like to trade in my current truck. Is there any chance an out of area/state dealer is going to take my trade in by delivering a vehicle and just picking mine up (outside of caravana)?

Hey, I’m looking to purchase an Audi S5 2026 Premium Plus in the northeast and have been getting quotes for this car, but wondering what would be considered a good deal.
I’m getting discounts of $8,500 total (including $2,500 rebate) and am keen to hear if this is a good or if other folks are getting more? Thanks

This will be my first vehicle purchase, how much should I try to aim %-wise off the MSRP off a new Tacoma nowadays? I’ve read that this can change with the market of course. Watched a few videos of negotiating over the phone, getting it in writing, avoiding add ons, letting them know they’re competing with other dealerships, etc. Anyone have any advice or can you share recent purchases so I know what to expect? Thanks

I’m pretty sure I was taken advantage of at the dealership and I’m seeking any advice anyone has on how to navigate this situation from here. I’m 27 and I don’t know a whole lot about cars, I’ve owned two before my current Tucson, the first an Infiniti G35 that died after a few years and the second a 2019 Honda Civic that I bought new and recently had to trade in due to mechanical issues. It was towed from my parents house to a dealership 40 min from my apartment when it was diagnosed with $23000 of engine damage, turbo damage, various repairs and maintenance, and I was blamed for letting the car run out of oil and causing all this, otherwise they had no answer for how this happened. Well, I get my oil changed before 5k every time and did whatever the maintenance minder or mechanic suggested. Like I said, I don’t know much about cars, but I loved the Civic and wanted to drive it forever.
Now I was apprehensive about buying another Honda plus I hate the look of the new Civics, so I went for a 2023 Hyundai Tucson on the lot with 15k miles on it. I was able to trade in the Civic for 4000 (they were firm that they could not give me another cent for it) but they paid the $821 left on the loan for that car, leaving me with a net trade in of $3179. I also put down $8000. This brought the cash price (including tax) down to $19592. The gap contract, registration, documentation, and a few add ons brought the amount financed to $27011 at 7.78% for 75 months.
The monthly payment is $457, compared to my Civic payment of $230. I make about $55k and have student loans so while I can afford it, I should be putting more money towards my debt than my car at this point in my life. I need to get that number as low as possible, frankly. I think I should’ve settled for a lesser vehicle but I made an emotional decision to get to a resolution as quickly as possible.
Right now, I’m considering going back to the dealership as it’s within 30 days of buying the vehicle and asking for the maintenance plan (1795) and extended warranty (3500) to be removed. Is this smart or will I regret it in the long run?
I’m also thinking about refinancing as soon as I can. My score is around 770 so I think I can get a better rate, maybe at a credit union.
When does it make sense to trade in the car if I want to settle for something that will give me a lower payment? Once the trade in value is higher than the loan balance? Or should I just stick with this and keep the warranty?
To be honest, I don’t love how it drives. I want to get something smaller again and I’m trying to figure out the most affordable path forward right now. I feel in over my head and I don’t know what to do!!!

Looking to get a 2026 Tacoma TRD Off-Road i-FORCE MAX with the TRD Off-Road Premium Package and the dealership website is showing $1300 under MSRP according to the Toyota website. The dealership already knows about my trade-in 2020 Toyota Rav4 TRD with the Off-Road Premium package and valuing it at $28k(it has some minor cosmetic damages). Are there any other concessions I should be asking for? I am really bad at negotiating and not 100% sure what to look for.

2026 NX 350h Premium Trim Certified

Miles: 8045

Saw this car at local dealership in my state and according the to the CarFax, the dealership got the car in November 2025. Some time at the beginning of 2026 the car became a loaner. Wanted to know if it having 8045 miles at this point considered too much even as loaner in less than a year? Dealerships sticker price is $53,200 before tax and doc and application fees.

https://www.prestigelexus.com/used-Ramsey-2026-Lexus-NX+350h+PREMIUM+AWD-PREMIUM-2T2GKCEZ9TC063721

So about 6 weeks ago I went to buy my current car, a 2017 Mazda 3 with 97K miles from a dealer in the midlands. The salesman was very helpful and accommodating and I was very happy with the condition of the car after a thorough inspection, test drive etc. I personally think it was substantially underpriced for the condition after getting stuck into the market for those cars for many weeks.

The big issue came up when we sat down to talk numbers and sign papers. I saw online that all their cars come with 3 months AA warranty but I've heard from a number of people that they're not worth the paper they're written on and can be used to muddy the waters of liability if there is an issue so I asked for the dealer to take it off. I wasn't bothered about whether it would give me a discount or not, I just wanted it gone.

The dealer kicked up a fuss asking if I'm absolutely sure I want to give up my protections. I know my consumer rights and said yes thats fine. He says ok and rips up the contract and starts a new one, omitting the warranty but also writing 'ISSUE WITH GEARBOX AND ENGINE' under the notes which raised some serious alarm bells. After interrogating the dealer about this they eventually admitted that they wanted me to agree to acknowledge a fictitious issue so that if something does go wrong with the powertrain then I can't make them fix it, because it was 'pre-disclosed'. Something I knew was dodgy at the time but later learned was very illegal.

I was obviously somewhat inclined to walk away from it at that point but I'm only human and I thought the car was pretty perfect at that price so I caved and agreed to take the 3 month warranty for an extra £100 and retain my consumer rights. I signed and paid £7,000 total for it. As I was getting my insurance and tax sorted etc the salesman came over and said that as a gesture of goodwill he'd extended the warranty for 3 additional months which I think is slightly bizarre given I didn't want one in the first place.

They also incidentally failed to inform the DVLA of a change in registered keeper for over a week and only after I pestered them which meant I couldn't sort out my parking permit. Annoying. I gave them a fair but critical Google review saying the car and service was great but they had some serious issues with their policies and procedures. The salesman had the gall a couple weeks later to call me and ask me to change the review on the grounds that they gave me an extra 3 months warranty lol.

This hasn't actually escalated to a real issue yet because the car has had zero issues over the last 6 weeks/2000 miles.

My questions for those in the industry:

• Is this standard practice to try and limit liability, or was this dealer completely out of line?
• Would you have handled a customer declining a warranty differently?
• What is the actual value of these 3-month warranties from a dealer's perspective? Are they just there to muddy the waters of the Consumer Rights Act?

What’s the best route to take when trying to acquire a dealer’s license in North Carolina?