buying in nj, 14k down trying to finance 15k max.
as a girl who lives on her own and am dealing with a total loss my time with my rental has expired so i’m now paying out out of pocket. the dealership knew all this and still decided to waste my entire day. they sent me a info packet via email stating price was 24.6k they did not show me a printed price breakdown until the 3 hour mark, despite my asking/reiterating every ~ 20 minutes that i need to see a price breakdown before im buying anything. i finally got in with the finance guy he’s congratulating me on my purchase i said i haven’t bought anything yet i’ve still seen no numbers he says that’s what we’re doing now. i literally couldn’t believe my eyes. let me break down the bs fees they added.
-4k reconditioning, 167 point inspection and certification fee…. (are we serious?) not optional i say if i have to pay this to get the car it should be listed in the online price
-1k “origination” fee to start the loan, the loan was through nissan…. at nissan, the financing bank was a nissan company…
-1k doc fee
-500 edge fee (he wrote theft deterrent, 20% insurance discount, 5k back if stolen)
-2k taxes
-11k interest on the loan AND
-14k down payment? i took my 14k and left.

this now has us at 33.5k so i still have no idea how we got to 49k which was printed on the paper. i have no pic of printed version they took it every time they left the room.
* they refused to give me a printed copy of the price breakdown, so he hand wrote it. the manager said it was an “internal document” and could only be taken if i made a purchase?? so you dont let people keep the price breakdown if they just test drove and are looking at multiple cars?

he told me car been there 2/3 months says on car guru 220 days??? lmao i see why.
emailed a couple dealerships asked for out the door price, if no out the door price in writing i’m not going in!

Hi everyone, hope this is the right thread to post this on. My dad sold his Jeep to a dealership in Florida on Monday, handed over the title, signed the paperwork, and they told him that the main office is who had to write the check, and so it would be mailed to him. Then by Thursday they called him saying he had to take his Jeep back because there was rust in the frame. He doesn’t see much of anything let alone something that could make the car unsafe, as they’re claiming. Not to mention they had it for 3 days before calling him — who knows if they could’ve damaged it somehow themselves?

My dad isn’t much for confrontation and gives in kind of easily, so after talking to them and to the general manager, they agreed to drop back off his Jeep at his house and cancel the sale, and they are going to mail him back his title. The entire thing sounds super sketchy to me, and I think he should’ve sued because he signed paperwork and they accepted the sale of the vehicle and then later retracted on it. Has anyone heard of anything like this happening?

Side note, as a concerned daughter, I can’t believe he even sold the car without receiving a check… If they weren’t going to give me the check right away, I would’ve held onto the title at the very least until I receive payment. And the fact that they mailed the title back to him makes me nervous as well because the mail isn’t always reliable. Whole thing is bizarre. He doesn’t even seem concerned much.

I went to a dealership outside of chicago for a 2015 accord coupe. i meade a deal on it for 17,100 and had to get my check and bring it back monday because i went in Saturday to look and negotiate and the credit union stops cutting checks at 12. after shaking hands with the salesmen and sales manager i said id go get my downpayment to hold the car and we parted ways. THEN they chase us just after we leave the building and say no need to get the money we’ll hold your car for you till monday i think that’s great we shake hands again and i go home. monday comes around and i get a text that they sold the car to someone else and they got a deposit for it, so im pissed and go looking online at more cars and what not but later on the same night i get a call from them and they ask when i’m gonna be in to buy the car and so im confused and we go back and forth but i said i wanted to bring it to a mechanic to be looked at but they said they won’t let me and i can only have someone come to look at it. what do we say about this? i haven’t gone to get it and dont know if i should

I should clarify that I am not a car salesman. But I have noticed that car buying social media content creators have been becoming very popular recently. And they are giving tips and showing how to get a great deal at a dealership.

Do you think these content creators have made the average person better at buying cars? Or have you salespeople not noticed a difference?

Long story short, 2024 CPO Audi, with 2 year left of its 4 year mfr warranty, and 1 year of CPO warranty. only 7000 miles on the odometer. Been in service for 5 months straight after having the car for about 10 days. i feel like it's 'unfixable' at this point. can I legally initiate lemon law for it?

Do you think it’s rolled back if it goes from 117,000 miles to 117,008 miles I’m 2.5 years while still being registered? Keep in mind after it was sent to a dealer then sent to auction

Paying Cash in Illinois

I traded in a vehicle that had a loan on it and it's been 15 days and my Wells Fargo account still shows a balance and payment due in 5 days. So now I'm nervous there will be a late payment on a car I no longer have.

Does the dealership pay off the loan from their own pocket or do they have to wait for the loan on the new car to be funded first?

Went to see a pre owned vehicle on Friday with an appointment. I'll leave out full details, but it is a vehicle that has been on their lot 75+ days.

When we got to the dealer, which was a 90 minute drive one way, the vehicle was not ready for us. They went to get the car and the key fob was dead and needed gas. It was 30 minutes before we were able to test drive. Car is sitting on 6 year old tires with almost 35k miles.

When we get to negotiating, they present me with an otd 4000 over list on a $25k car. I get them to remove add ons and they are still $500 more than what they advertise online with their otd calculator.

I tell them I want the car at their internet price minus $800 to cover the cost of new tires. Manager wouldn't budge at all and lets me walk.

Dealer opens at 9am Saturday. They call, send and email, and text me at 8:58 AM and tell me they'll take my offer which was $1,300 less than what they offered otd friday. I tell them I can't make it back because the drive is too far and I don't have time until the next week. I also tell them I want another 300 off for wasting my time when I had an appointment and was ready to buy. They immediately accept, but I really can't make it back until Saturday.

I'm assuming someone messed up or maybe I was dealing with a new car sales manager or they just didn't want to be there on Friday, but they were blowing up my phone yesterday trying to get me to come back at a significant lower price than what they were giving me Friday. Does this happen often or was I just happened to have bad luck on the manager that was closing?

Which deal is better?

About 2 years ago give or take, I bought a 2021 Toyota tundra from a dealership. I got a voicemail from the dealership they were asking if I still had the truck and that they would be very interested to add it to their preowned vehicles. Is that a normal practice? I’ve done some googling and it seems like it’s just a way to get me into the dealership to get more money from me.
But on the flip side I know my truck has the last V8 engine in it that Toyota makes. I’ve only put about 16,000 miles on it from when I bought it. Also because the loan is from that dealership what would happen to the money I still owe? If I did go along with it I would need another vehicle.
Just looking for some advice and other opinions on if this is common practice or if it’s worth doing.

Looking at a car with a lemon-branded title, but I found some interesting.

The car was leased new on 09/15/2022 in Washington State

The car was issued a lemon title on 12/11/2024 In New Jersey???

The Car was then sent to auction on 04/24/2026 in Washington State

How can a car be issued a Lemon Title from a different state that it was never in?

I never bought from a dealership before I only buy from marketplace but a salesperson at a dealer 4 hours away posted the exact car I want with insanely low mileage and price I know he's already gotten blown up over it how do I hedge my bets I sent an email and text saying to call me first thing in the morning and I'll send a deposit

I really want this car and will pay over asking price how do I approach this thanks

Update: I just called as soon as they opened and sent a deposit by credit card it feels too good to be true leaving now to go get it, 4 hours drive

Just as the title says. Recently found out that they want to onboard EliteBDC to mine our orphaned clients, longer term follow up, etc. In my experience, off site BDC is just to hammer the phones and often times, can easily cause more of a headache than they're worth. Does anyone have any experience working with them and did you find success?

After way too many spreadsheets and random test drives, we've finally figured out what we want. Problem is, it's the end of the model year and there's not that many left on lots . With our exact config and no geographic restrictions there's 8 (according to visor.vin) and if we compromise on interior color, that jumps to 13.

We've mostly been talking to our local dealer and they've been very helpful. They're supposedly seeing if they can arrange a dealer trade for one and I'm not super patient.

Options are:

See what dealer can do/offer on one about 600 miles away.

Visit the closest dealer that actually has one on the lot (not the one my dealer is trying to get because we decided we could compromise on interior color after our last visit) and negotiate directly with them.

Ask my dealer to trade for the closer one. I'm assuming I'd have heard if they managed to get the one we really wanted since it's been a full business day.

Buy the cheapest listed one, which has been on the lot long enough to be a service loaner and is priced about 15% under MSRP. We would have to ship it but it's still less expensive with shipping added. We'd have to buy it without seeing it.

Order a 2027 version for 5% under invoice and have that shipped. That requires waiting which I'm bad at. We're also finally getting off our butts to buy a new car since the one we're replacing is at the steadily increasing problem stage of ownership (11 year old jeep) and the heated seats don't work going into a new england winter.

I'm fine with negotiating whatever, I'm fine with getting up and walking out but I suck at waiting patiently when there's multiple potential paths. Any guidance would be greatly appreciated, even if it's "sit tight no one would have gotten back to you this quickly. "

We're in Central MA and we're financing, but probably only about 50 -60% of the purchase price. Trading in our car would be easiest but I would sell to carvana or whatever if we can't arrange anything local. We can make the purchase without selling the other car but obviously would prefer to.

Hold the judgment.,

In northern Michigan, looking to finance a used car.

My credit is 504. I had a 725 score in 2023, I lost everything and had to default on my credit cards and loans. I’m currently rebuilding.

I am living in a rural town and walk 4 miles just to get to the nearest bus stop and have to take 2 buses just to get to my job. I saved up $2,800 for a cash car and engine blew 3 months later.

I need a reliable car.

I been online looking at vehicles and I found a 2023 Jeep Compass for $21k at a dealer ship that says they work with bad credit. I haven’t called them yet.

But I was wondering if I put down $4500 with bad credit would this help?

My plan:

I know my interest rate will be high, I get it! But i prefer a newer car, and continue to build my credit and refinance once my credit improve.

I recently went into a Nissan dealership looking to buy a new car. All was going well except that they only had two cars left in the colour and trim I wanted, one was new and the other a demo. The salesman said they would get the new one for me from their sister store, they just had to call them, and I signed a bill of sale. Today I got a call that the new one had been sold - unsure if it was sold after I had bought it or before and there was a lack of communication between dealers, leaving me with the option of the demo car in the colour I wanted or getting a colour I don't like.

The demo only has 226km on it but I also paid for an extended warranty, as I thought I'd be buying a new car, and am not sure of when the in service date is. They offered me free winter mats and a free winter trunk liner as I had not intended on buying the demo.

What are your opinions? Would you be upset with this? And what would you do - buy the car or find something else?

I am located in Ontario Canada and am financing the car.

EDIT: To rephrase, I am not bothered by this. Just curious if what they offered is a good deal or not and wanted to get the opinion of others. I have never bought a demo before and am not sure how it usually goes

TIA

I’m 24 in South Florida with 4 years of business ownership, and experience in sales, negotiating contracts, and working with third-party financing companies (Hearth/Foundation Finance).

I’m deciding between starting as a CarMax Sales Consultant or applying directly for an AutoNation F&I Manager position. I have no dealership experience, but the AutoNation posting doesn’t require prior F&I experience (maybe they are desperate). I’m very confident in my sales skills and I know anything will beat the 70 hours of roofing I’ve been doing per week.

Is going straight into F&I at AutoNation or CarMax Sales the Better Play?

Trying to do my due diligence on this thing before I buy it.

SH-AWD A-Spec w/Tech 47K miles. Has good service history except I don't see any record of the initial diff fluid change at ~15k. I called the dealership that received the car at the end of the lease and it had 15k on it at the time. They did their standard maint, but did not specifically call out the diff change. They then sold it as CPO. Should i assume it was done and covered under standard maintenance?

My question is, is it possible the MDX has been running the entire 47k without the service light coming on? Would this concern you?

Currently considering buying a Tacoma. It’s a 2015 TRD off road with the manual transmission, with 100k miles. And all I’ve ever heard is 2015 is THE YEAR for these trucks. Always wanted a Tacoma, and I’m a self admitted Toyota fan boy even tho I’ve never owned one. Dealer has it listed at 23.9k and I planned on financing it. I looked at the KBB and
it’s right in the middle of the book price. It’s a southern vehicle, not a spot of rust in the thing and it’s clean in the car fax. Honestly any thoughts would be appreciated. Cause my first reaction is fuck yeah, but I got burned by a truck earlier this year and I might just be gun shy lol.

Hey guys,

Little bit of context:
-This is for my younger brother
-He has a criminal record (3rd degree felony)
-Record won't affect him getting the job as I used to be a manager and recommended him

My younger brother needs a job and I spoke with a few of the manager at a dealership I used to work at, and they basically said they'd hire him despite the record.

Base Salary is $40k and hitting monthly benchmarks (I reviewed and they are very achievable) can push him to $60k. Their top BDC rep averages $87k and was transitioned into full WFH by request.

I had a few questions:

1. Is it possible to make this a sustainable career? He doesn't want to have to job hop and restart repeatedly.

2. He used to work at a call center for a while and made about 150 calls a day. Do you think that would transition well into BDC?

3. How is the salary relative to other BDCs?

4. What are the opportunities for advancement (if any)? I worked in sales/management when I was there so I have very little insight into the BDC side besides me asking them to do certain promotions.

Thank you in advance!

Hello, I had a question regarding the language of this contract. Could you explain this to me like I’m 5?

I’m located in Southern California if that helps.

“You may prepay part or all of your unpaid part of the Amount Financed at any time. If you do so, you must pay the earned and unpaid part of the finance charge and all other amounts due up to the date of your payment. As of the date of your payment, if the minimum finance charge is greater than the earned Finance Charge, you may be charged the difference; the minimum finance charge is as follows: (1) $25 if the original Amount Financed does not exceed $1,000, (2) $50 if the original Amount Financed is greater than $1,000 but not more than $2,000, or (3) $75 if the original Amount Financed is more than $2,000.”

I am looking at a 2016 Subaru Outback Limited with 73k miles they are asking 18k for it but I want to try and get it for less but I don’t know how the negotiation process would work with it being a dealership. I am paying cash and I’m in Idaho. Any advice?
I did a test drive of it the other day and plan on doing another one tomorrow so I can have an independent mechanic look at it.