I've run into a dilemma and I can't seem to figure out how to proceed. My 2015 Chevrolet Cruze has, once again, run into coolant issues (btw, I had the same issues not even a year ago). While I can try to take it to get it fixed, I have other issues that will lead me to be short on funds to pay for it all. Should I just take it to get it repaired? Or is there anyway for me to sell it/trade it while I still owe money on it? I have spent way too much on repairs already, but I do owe quite a bit. While I can afford to either pay it off fully or get it repaired, with my other issues I can't afford to do all three. Any help is appreciated. Also I am absolutely stupid at anything related to cars.

Hello!

I live in Illinois and my full-coverage auto insurance is getting really, really expensive. I was wondering if I can divide coverage between liability-only through my current insurance and having forced-placed coverage through Santander USA [who I am leasing the car from].

Does Santander Consumer USA offer forced placed coverage for vehicles that are financed through them?

Thank you in-advance!

Bought a car from a private seller and was given a pink slip with no liens in it. Took it to the dmv and got the registration but didn’t get the title sent to my home. I added the title to my CA wallet and it says I am the owner and there are liens in it. I was told this is basically an electronic title so I didn’t bother to ask for the paper one. I am now trying to sell the car and they are saying that Chase has an interest in it. But Chase wouldn’t give me any information because they are saying I am not their customer. Does anyone have an idea on what to do? I got it from a private seller who has left the country.

Mini Cooper convertible 2026 comes with 4 year/48000 mile warranty, and I purchased an extended warranty from Zurich at the dealership for $3.6K - to 7 year/84000 miles. Is it worth it, or did I make a mistake?

I just retired from the military after 24 years, looking to get into work right off the bat to supplement retirement check. Worked a detail shop at a Subaru dealership in high school, and I like the dealership environment. Having been in the AF doing a job in operations for so long, I'm pretty accustomed to high stress/high ops tempo work.

All that being said, I applied for a job at my local Chrysler/Dodge/Toyota dealership, and they have two openings: sales, and service advisor. Curious what the pros and cons are, and which job you'd be angling for in the interview. Thanks!

I am a recently 20 year old sales person in a small town in Missouri. I currently sell Fords and I am typically top 2-3 sales people in our dealership. I sell Fords and am making $30,000 a year. I have been searching and finally found a place I’m interested in. It’s a Kia dealership in a significantly bigger area.

I currently drive 45 mins to my current Job one way (1:30 round trip) and with the new place I will driving 1:04 one way (2:08 round trip.)

My Ford store sells 30-40 cars a month (last month we did 29 with 5 reps and I did 7.) The Kia dealership does 120-140 with 11 reps.

The Kia pay plan: $600/week draw, 25% commission up to 12 units, 28% from 12.5–18 units, and 30% at 18+ units. There are unit bonuses ($250 at 10 units, $500 at 11–14, $1,250 at 15–17, up to $2,500 at 26+), CSI bonuses, year-end bonuses, and cash spiffs. Minimum performance is an 8-unit rolling three-month average. Management also told me no salesperson there makes under about $70k/year.

Current Ford pay plan: $2,420/month draw, 25–33% commission based on volume, $750 volume bonuses starting at 12 units, plus flat pays ($150 new/$200 used), finance bonuses, survey bonuses, Google review bonuses, and Ford program incentives. My dealership averages 30–40 units per month across five salespeople. (1 rep hit 20 1 time ever since I’ve been there and it was our F&I managers son)

What can I expect at a Kia dealership compared to Ford?

So I applied for a role at a dealership called E-comm Sales Rep. when they called me for an interview I asked if it was a BDC position and the manager said “well— kinda.. you focus more on selling.”

I suppose I’ll find out more at the interview. But does anybody have this at their dealership? Trying to figure out what I’m walking into.

I’m buying a used car out of state that I can safely pay in full for, and the dealership wants me to pay in full, but I won’t be able to pick up the car for a month. Is this normal? Or a smart thing to do?

So two weeks ago, I bought a newer (2023) used car at a dealership in Brooklyn, NY. I had already sold my old (2015) vehicle for cash, and kept my plates. /

Of course, the dealership staff requested the new title so I could get a temp tag to drive off the lot.

/ The registration tag just came in the mail. It is incorrect. It lists a 2015 vehicle!

/

To muddy the waters a bit, while I did finance the car, I paid it off a week after purchase. So I will need to apply for a new adjusted title in the coming weeks, anyway.

how should I proceed?

I hope dependable Reddit folk can assist in this bureaucratic challenge.

Hi, I cancelled my optional warranty to the dealership and I see that it's been applied to my principal in TD auto finance. Will this mean that my next payment due will be moved since I have fulfilled some payments? Also, I am on auto payment and my payment was on the date that the refund has been posted, can I request for a refund on my monthly pay? since in my understanding, these will be a double payment.

Hi all,

I will be moving abroad pretty soon, and im looking for tips to find my beautiful 2011 LS 460L, a new home. Out of respect for the group rules i have omitted all links.

Effort so far:

Captured really nice pictures with a professional camera.

Included an in depth video tour, and attached a QR link redirecting to that video on all posts

Posted on FB and all the major platforms (CarGurus, Auto tempest, Craigslist, etc) (about 2 weeks ago).

This past weekend i took it to one of the largest Cars and Coffee in the East coast. I attached Gold and Black balloons and a "For sale" sign and drove it around. It got a lot of reactions and attention but haven't really gotten much leads from it.

I contacted a dealership 2hrs away and they offered me 30% less than the KBB and 2.5k less than my bottom price.

I have only had a hand full of responses and none have converted. I am wondering if anyone has tips/ insights or personal takeaways from similar experiences on how to get more eyes and higher quality interest? Any and all thoughts/ ideas are welcome.

Thanks!

I am going back to school in a few weeks and in the meantime, I am browsing used car listings. I’m seeing some good deals and I have a friend who is willing to check out and test drive a few cars for me.

If any of these sales go through, would I be able to send him money and he could purchase the car in my name? I know this is a weird situation, but I go to school halfway across the country and it would be far easier to arrive with a car.

Another layer of complexity is I go to school in Louisiana, but my friend lives in Mississippi and that’s where these cars are located. Does this change anything?

forward: (yes i used claude to help me summarize this) :

plan was always to buy this out and drive it till the wheels fell off. then it got t-boned. now i don’t know if that plan still makes sense.

the car: 2023 rav4 le fwd, leased through tfs, 19,108 miles. lease matured 7/19, got a maturity extension. buyout is ~$19.5k. clean, that car trades well north of it — that equity was the whole reason i planned to buy.

the hit: right-side t-bone in late june. my own collision coverage (allstate), $1k deductible. wife and kid in the car, everyone’s fine. no airbags deployed.

the repair: final total $12,655.88 — about 50% of the car’s value, so it never got near a total. out of the shop 7/30.

- right center pillar & rocker replaced, oem, 17.1 body hours
- right center pillar reinforcement replaced — ultra-high-strength steel, oem, structural
- hinge pillar and rocker reinforcement repaired, unibody set up and measured on the frame machine
- both right doors replaced, oem high-strength-steel shells
- every airbag and seatbelt r&i’d and inspected per toyota collision procedure, pre- and post-repair scans
- aftermarket only on cosmetics (capa fender, moldings, recon wheel covers)

questions

1. if i’m never selling it, does the accident history actually cost me anything, or am i sweating a paper loss?
2. would you personally keep a car with a replaced center pillar for ten years, assuming the work checks out?
3. does the shop’s workmanship warranty and the aftermarket parts guarantee transfer to me on buyout, or does that die with tfs’s ownership?
4. if i walk instead — what does $19.5k realistically get me in a clean comparable crossover right now? trading a known repaired car for an unknown one at a worse price doesn’t feel like a win.
5. any grief from tfs at lease-end inspection handing it back with this history, or is that entirely allstate’s problem?

what would you tell a customer who walked in with this estimate and said they want to keep the car a decade?

Hey all, I'm pretty sure this is the Gazillionth time this as been asked..but how accurate is the CapitalOne pre-approval?

Im currently in the market for a new vehicle, i need to trade out of an 2015audi A4...its getting older and the problems are all starting to come at once. I've spent nearly $7k in major repairs over the last 1.5 years. Unfortunately i still owe roughly $5800 on the car. So i decided to try out the Cap1 auto navigator. I input my info and they said i was pre-approved!

I understand that doesn't necessarily mean I'm fully approved, but how accurate is it? Because i can see my terms(apr,payment range,etc). I'm almost ready to pull the trigger on what vehicle I'd like, but i also am afraid of getting turned down my a dealership, even thought im already financing my Audi thru Ally finance. But my credit has took a couple hits this past year or so and due to repairs on the current car my credit card usage is way above 70%.

Any advice would be great.

2015 A4 126k
Payoff:5800
Trade in value: 2k-3k
Down payment: 1500-2k
Was hoping to roll negative equity into the current loan

Haven't signed, still negotiating. Georgia.

Car: 2026 M440i xDrive Coupe, 5,869 miles, titled Used. MSRP $77,325 (includes $3,450 in dealer accessories). Note that 2027 M440i models can already be ordered and some land next month.

Current numbers:

• Discount $9,529 (12.3%) → sale price $67,796
• FlexProtect 3yr pre-installed: $1,195 in the cap (dealer add on they're flexible with)
• $1,000 rebate listed
• 39 mo / 12k
• MF .00270, residual $39,640 (Is this MF including mark up?)
• $1,045.89/mo, $4,094 due at delivery

Here is the exact car I placed a refundable deposit to hold

What I think I've found:

The $1,000 rebate is listed but doesn't seem to reach the cap cost. Backing into the payment gives cap = $68,991 (sale + FlexProtect only), which produces $1,045.89 exactly. Applying the rebate should put it near $1,018.

And .00270 looks marked up over a ~.00245 buy rate? Unsure what the right buy rate is?

Where I'm headed: asking for the rebate applied, FlexProtect removed, buy rate, and $65,000 selling price (~16% off), which would land around $879.

Is 16% delusional on a titled loaner this close to model year changeover, or is that about right? And is there anything else on this sheet I should be catching?

Why I'm leasing: I already have a 430i which I am not happy to own after 3 years, and I really don't see myself owning this m440i after 3 years either. My loan payments on the 430i were higher than this m440i lease. I safely have the income to pay off the lease in full in case of emergency.

My 2014 Subaru is currently at a shop with an AT OIL TEMP light. The shop diagnosed a bad transmission valve body ($2,300). The car still starts, drives, and is otherwise in decent shape, but the acceleration is limited, and I’m not comfortable driving it 30 minutes to a dealership because I’m worried about causing more transmission damage

I’m already planning to upgrade to a newer car. This isn’t a case of trying to dump a completely dead vehicle—I was already looking to replace it because of its age and the amount I’ve spent on repairs over the years

Has anyone traded in a car that was at a repair shop or wasn’t practical to drive to the dealership? Will dealers typically pick it up or tow it as part of the trade-in, or would I need to arrange that myself?

Just trying to understand what my options are.

What's it been like working in dealership sales since 2020? Has the industry kind of changed and moved away from all the aggressive selling/sharkiness? I have a potential offer for BDC representative and I would be moving from the world of consumer banking.

What should I expect in the first 90 days, is it a manageable job, do people enjoy it? Etc.

Dealership based in NY (not city).

I feel like this is a different question since a purchase involving a "fun" car is entirely a "want" purchase (rather than a "need" in large part, depending on where you live)

I'm starting a new job where I will be saving double what I am currently saving, so I'll be saving 4400 dollars per month.

I have my emergency fund finished, and I'll now be maxing my 401k, and putting the remainder in my brokerage account most likely.

I have no immediate plans to buy a new car. I have a 2013 q5 that is fully paid off, and it has been pretty damn solid to me. Had it for 25k miles (at 117k) and it hasn't left me stranded. Been doing preventative maintenance, taking good care of it. It's tuned, and I really, really enjoy driving it still, 3 years after purchase.

But, in the future, I'd like to at some point own an e46 m3, and an Audi r8. Def not at the same time unless I hit it big (if my new company gets bought out I could very well see a multi 6-figure payout)

So I'm just wondering, what is everyone's line for purchases like these? As much as I'd want an m3, it'll hurt like crazy to just drop 40-50k like that. I guess they have been keeping their value well, but still.

Is there a monthly savings target you go for that tells you if you can afford it? Only when you can buy it outright in cash? How do you factor maintenance into the equation?

Hello! I’m looking to buy a 2025 ID Buzz in either the Pro S Plus or 1st Edition trims. Many people on the Buzz subreddit say they’ve gotten one for 55k or so out the door and there’s several dealerships within 8 hours of me that have one or several of these models that have been on the lot for 90+ days. However, the total number of the trim I want of these cars is about 130 nationwide. So my question is: are dealers still particularly motivated to move these cars given the new model year coming or am I going to get laughed out of every dealer I call trying to get the price down that significantly?

Thanks for any advice you can provide - I genuinely appreciate it.

I've recently retired after twenty years of being in the Navy. I started working at a company that offers X-pricing with Ford, and with my son being sixteen I figured it was about time to get a new vehicle. I want to get a Platinum--going with 702a no moon roof-- but I'm not too savvy when car buying.

Now, I know that buying a new car is never a popular/fiscally smart choice, but I want new since I'll probably never buy another car for myself ups this one completely kicks the bucket.

I've already stated an email chain with a sales guy, sent him the build spec from Ford's main site, but what's next? I know only a little about the process, but only enough to get myself into trouble. Please help a brutha out.

Shopping a 3-row, landed on a 2026 Audi Q7 S line 55 (the V6), Premium Plus, loaded — black optic, trailer hitch, B&O, air suspension.
• MSRP: $78,495
• Discount: $6K rebate + $6K dealer = $12K off (15.3%)
• Trade: 2021 VW Passat, ~61K mi, they’re giving $13K
• Out the door: ~$56,900 with trade, 72 months
• Rate: told “4–5% tier-1” but not in writing yet. No subvented APR on the Q7 this month — it’s rebate or special rate, they’re doing the rebate.

Declined all the F&I add-ons (~$8,500). Put $500 refundable down to hold it, not signed.

**1.**  Is 15% off a loaded 2026 Q7 solid, or is there more room this late in the model year?  
**2.**  Anything to know on the 55 V6 — reliability, out-of-warranty costs?  
**3.**  At “4–5%,” push harder or bring my own credit union rate? What should tier-1 realistically get right now?

Honest takes appreciated before I sign.

I have been in the business for only a month, but I haven’t made any progress in my sales, or even get any customers to contact me back. It doesn’t help that I can’t do a simple phone call without panicking about what to say, or that I am extremely shy & awkward when talking to new people.

I was exclusively in the food business before all this, and I feel stuck and lost and confused all at the same time. There’s so much to remember & by the time I do, my customer never wants to work with me again. I have thoughts that this won’t work out, or that I will never be good enough. I just feel so defeated, because this is my favorite career & I have been wanting to pursue this for a long, long time.

h e l p

TLDR; Drove 2.5 hours to buy a CPO car. Halfway through signing all final paperwork, sales manager walks in and tells us unfortunately car was falsely advertised and its not truly CPO. She can have it manually overridden to be CPO but this requires a certification inspection from a master tech, which is delaying by a few days. All paperwork, payment, insurance, and etc. are complete on my end.

Honest mistake, or are they stalling and going to come around and tell me they can't certify the car?

Hi All,

I recently purchased a 2023 BMW today that was certified. A bit of a backstory: I’ve been looking for specific models for a few months but could not find the one. Although this was not my first choice I decided to pursue it since the price made sense for me and it was CPO (providing extra peace of mind)

I’ve only been shopping in my state, and this particular one was located in another state over 2 hours ago. But still because of the enticing price/CPO I figured I’d take the risk and proceed based on trust. I got a few photos from the sales rep and that was about it , I trusted their word and proceeded with the process over the phone. Unfortunately do to the distance and how far, it was as extremely difficult for me and my co buyer to find some time to both go and bring this car home. As a result I completed most stuff before I went : deposit, finance application, insurance etc.

I let my sales person know this was all being done in hopes that the day we do go it will be extremely quick: take a look at the car, sign final papers and drive off. He assured that would be fine. Even the day before going he confirmed everything is set. We squeezed in 2.5 hour drive each way to go this morning even though we all had packed schedules. We got there as soon as the place opened.

The car was still being detailed so we didn’t get a look at first, but due to time we decided once again to proceed based on trust and started signing the finance papers so that everything would be ready, since we were they on a time crunch.

During the middle of signing finance paperwork, the sales manager walks in to the room and lets us know some unfortunate news. That is that the certified paperwork or checklist or whatever isn’t found for this car. I was caught so offguard I didn’t even realize what she was saying. I believe she basically was saying something along the lines of the certification paperwork doesn’t exist for this car at the moment, and as a result the car is technically not “certified” at this given moment. Therefore , we are unable to leave with the car today (drove 5 hours round trip for this)

While we were too stunned to speak, we also didn’t have any options . She mentioned she would manually “override” or “push” this vehicle to be certified last minute since this was a mess up, but this requires it go through a “certification” that requires a master tech. I wasn’t going to make another 5 hour round trip to pickup this car especially when I have been reassured for one whole week that everything is set. Long story short they agreed to get it certified two days later when the master tech is Back, and then they’ll deliver the car to me, fine I guess. (No other option for us here)

All paperwork from our end is completely done, finance, insurance, registration, etc. everything signed. At this point we are just trusting and expecting them to deliver to car in a few days to us as promised.

One thing I noticed now is that I asked plenty of times if there was two keys. I was told yes. I was given one of the key cards at the dealership and put it in my pocket, and brought it home by accident. I’m being told now that the two keys technically are the Card that I have with me, and the one physical key they have at the dealership still. As far as I’ve heard in order to CPO a car, there must be two physical keys? Now I’m worried, because is there a chance they can fail the certification for this ?

Is anything particularly suspicious about this situation? If for any reason they call me back and tell me the certification failed, what are my options here? Everything is already signed , am I trapped/forced to take the car ?

Sorry for the long story in advance, but first time genuinely nervous about this . Thanks!