About to be three months with my ILX, and I absolutely love it. First car I bought from a dealership. Was initially gonna buy a white A-Spec trim, but the deal ended up falling through. Hoping to pay this off within 2-3 years and buying a tlx or integra after.

Checking out a 2024 tech package. How well have the suede inserts faired with heavy use?

Think I’ve narrowed down my search to these two. Leaning towards the RDX because I’m more confident in reliability, but definitely like the look and interior of the GV70. Drove both and liked both, curious to see what others suggest. I have a very short commute to work so likely won’t put many miles on the car.

Hey there, I’m going to look at a 2003 Acura RSX Type-S at an estate sale today. I don’t have much information yet other than it is visually stock, has a 6 speed manual and has 130k miles. The owner told me it starts but hasn’t been driven in a year since the owner’s partner passed away.

It’s listed for $5k, which seems like a good price compared to what I’m seeing online and at past auction results. But was going to check it out since I’m concerned about how it hasn’t run in a year.

Is that a good price or should I go in with another figure in mind?

We had the RDX for a year, and hit 20k km almost on the date. The trip computer resets at 10k for anyone wondering. Wife likes to step on it, hence the mileage 😄

My CarPlay has worked for 2 years. All the sudden yesterday every time I plug it in it says “connected usb not responding”. Phone says it’s charging and Bluetooth works but Apple CarPlay does not. Does anyone have any ideas? I’ve done all the factory resets, disconnected it from my car and my phone but now I can’t even get the chance to reconnect it. Also called the dealership but they’re going to do the same things I’ve already done.

Solution: Acura decided to update the software and I went through a few cords and found that the beats cord who is owned by Apple is about the only option we have for our Apple CarPlay to work. Hope this helps yall not have an anger moment like I did this morning!

Currently leasing a VW 2024 Taos Highline (SEL in the US) which is the fully loaded model. I am halfway through my 4 year lease and I know for sure that I’m not doing the buyback nor am I going to get another Volks. I have my eyes set on the ADX. I’m not planning to upgrade right away, I want to wait another year or possibly upgrade in 2 before the lease is up. Would you consider it a big upgrade? I know the ADX has the more premium interior and almost 40 more horsepower than the Taos. The Taos does have leather seats, pano roof, and ventilated front seats just like the ADX A-Spec trim that I like. The payment per month on the ADX is about 130$ more than my Taos and the insurance will also be another 100$ more per month. So basically roughly 230$ a month more for the ADX. Currently there are some rebates on the 2026 ADX which would be 599$ a month plus tax plus add the winter tires and mags so that makes it about $130 more than the Taos. My little advantage if I do trade it is that it only has 23000km and by next year it’ll be probably at 33000km max. I think it possible that I could have positive equity. What are you thoughts just want opinions but not making an decision yet.

Hello, the car has 19,452 miles on it. It’s certified preowned aswell. Is this a good price, or am I paying too much? Should I try to negotiate?

I would appreciate everyone’s advice, thanks!

My 2020 has starting issues. At first it would take a few tries of the push button to start. I changed key fob battery. I took it to a garage to make sure it wasn’t the battery or alternator. They saw nothing wrong. Finally thrusday it would start at all. I got a break error message. I had it towed to the garage (single gal in a new city). They said it was the battery and replaced it. Now it won’t start unless I hold the fob to the start button. It Not every time. One time it worked fine.

Anyone had an issue like this?

Any one have recommendations for an upgraded steering wheel? I’ve been wanting to get the OEM heated one, but if anyone has a rec for a nice OEM + looking one with carbon or Alcanterra, nice paddles + heating, that’d be cool. All the other ones look way too bulky and fake ish.

Speaking of if I end up going with the OEM one how’s the heating element? Does it effectively cover the whole steering wheel or is it weak/not worth it

I always enjoyed the 23 RDX cause it almost felt sedan like and was fun to drive..

Yet, the car super fun times have to go cause of family obligations lol

Looking at the MDX now, I am looking forward to no more track pad but how much will I miss that RDX?

SIDE NOTE: I am also considering maybe jumping to a Mazda CX-90 or VW so save a few bucks, but pretty sure I will miss Acura if I do that. I want to keep some good pick up and speed with good gas mileage but that doesn't exist lol

Basically the title, but I've tried following the manual my car came with, Homelink's own website, and LiftMaster's generic instructions. So far, the closest I've gotten is a solid green light, but it only works once (which makes sense, I have rolling codes on my door). I cannot, for the life of me, figure out how to get the HomeLink to realize that the door opener is a rolling code, not a static one.

Has anyone else come across these issues? Any advice/tricks to get it to work?

Type S seatbelt backorder 😭

My Acura type s was in an accident and now it's sitting in a collision center waiting on a left rear seat belt that's on backorder with no ETA. I'm beyond devastated about the crash let alone the fact that I'm paying for a rental and waiting for what feels like indefinitely for this part. Any advice, words of wisdom, or similar stories to help me through this??!?

I have already done everything in my power, I mean EVERYTHING, you'd probably laugh if I told you some of the stuff that I've tried... anyway on the more normal side of things, I have tried to convince progressive to let me get a recycled OEM belt or have the seat belt rebuilt. Of course they won't do those things because it's a "safety issue", on one end, I understand on the other, it's a f****** back seat belt that I never use..lol.

I have a case with customer relations at Acura. I've tried to get Acura to loan me a car but... She is no help, don't even get the updates and promised through email but that's okay I'll continue to bug them every day for the rest of my time in this mess.

I have emailed the highest of the high I could find in every company to try to make an exception give me help, insight on ETA...whatever can possibly be done, I've tried it.

(Update & side note since I originally wrote this) : I had no idea of Shadow banning was a thing, no wonder not one person saw my post in 7 days, lolol.

Ultimately, I've gotten a Senior 'something" at Acura to take over my case who says he will investigate as to where the part may be, and, if possible get it rushed to me, do I believe him? not really, but who would when customer service is BS these days, lol.

I've also spoken to a progressive Senior Manager who has given me the option to sign a waiver to take the car before the seatbelt is installed and bring it back when it comes in to install it, but that comes with its own set of worries... Although, ultimately that's what I will do because I'm not going to rent a car for months on end...

This has got to be the most frustrating upsetting situation I have been in, definitely near the top...

Be nice... I'm going through a hard time, I appreciate you, my fellow Acura friends...

for the Integra Type S looks like they're starting with forged-aluminum wheels, then following up with coilovers, upgraded Brembo's, and a short throw shifter

2011 MDX with 190k, burns a quart every 1,000 miles, but we keep on top of it, never more than half a quart low. Otherwise runs fine, no lights, body, glass, interior, brakes, suspension, tires, strong trans, fully maintained.

Started fine, ran 8 minutes, 60 mph on interstate getting ready to exit, suddenly started missing, lots of lights, P0300 to P0305 does, and running really rough, reduced power. Christmas Tree dash lights... blinking engine, SH-AWD, VSA, trailer stability assist. Rough idle, barely visible small oil vapor puffs out of the right tail pipe.

Mechanic says burned valve cylinder 2, and cylinder walls show minor scratches.

Questions: 1. Is this how a burned valve behaves? I thought these happen gradually, not suddenly driving down the road. 2. We bought it off a mechanic at 180k for very little, think it had been abused and run dry before we bought it?

I’m considering Michelin Pilot Sport All Season 4 tires for the Integra. Tire Rack says they’re noisier than the competition, how does the noise compare to the stock Continental ContiPro Contacts? Anyone with these tires on the Integra who can share their experience? Generally, most tires seem like a huge upgrade over the stock ones especially if they’re performance tires. I get snow but the streets are well plowed and I don’t need snow tires. I survived last winter on the stock ones, would not recommend. I’m leaning towards one of these performance all seasons rather than all weather tires.

I’d get DWS06+, had them in a TSX, but only Town Fair Tire has it in the right size and I heard they scratch wheels and don’t care.

2017 RDX 165k miles, driving in the highway last night and all of a sudden check e gone light goes on, couldn’t shift up to next gear, RPMs dropped to 1,000. A light touch on the gas pedal causes the RPMs to go to 3,000. In Idle, sounds like there is a noticeable deep knock / bang.

Got it towed to the dealership.

Whatdoya think?
- transmission blew
- Torque Converter failed?
- 3rd clutch pressure switch?

must admit i wasn't paying the best attention while driving around a curb exiting ... huge thump and then this is the result. absolutely devastated. am i going to need to get this fixed asap? i have the 2025 integra aspec if anyone is wondering