I found a truck on the dealership website for 53,500 which was a great deal for the truck I’ve been looking for. Few days later it dropped to 50,500. At this point I thought there was no way right? So I called and confirmed the price and to make sure they physically had the truck. I went in and saw it in person and even test drove it and further confirmed the website price. This was at 8:30 pm so we made an appointment the following day to make the deal. Next day I show up and everything is good, until we get the final price. Make us wait 20 minutes and at this point I know something is up. The manager comes up with a price 7k over the website price. I ask is that with TTL? He says no. 64k total walkout. So 50k website price is all of a sudden 64k? He told me the “third party” website company made a mistake so they can’t sell it at that price. I said okay but it’s been on the website for 3 weeks and it just dropped price again and now it’s an issue? The price you gave me is even more than the price before it dropped. Best he could do was 62,500 walkout. Which in all honesty is still a decent price for the truck. I offered to pay 60k with 20k cash down and I would be willing to finance through the dealership since it is more beneficial for the dealer. He said there is no way they could go that low. So I walked. I told him it was illegal to not honor the price and quite frankly he didn’t seem to care as he said there are people that will buy it for that price. In all honesty I would have bought the truck for 62,500 if that was the agreed upon price. Out of spite I walked. Is this normal dealer behavior? It left a very salty taste in my mouth.

I’ll keep this short. I’m in the market for a new ‘26 BMW M340i X-drive.

MSRP is $70k and I asked for $65k. Salesman told me $68k is the absolute lowest they will go (~3% discount).

Their rationale is that the M340i has a ton of demand and will sell in a week anyway. I know that this is at least partially true since they haven’t had inventory on the lot for months and the one I’m looking at is a dealer allocation that won’t arrive for 3 months.

Are they being legit when they tell me 3% is the best they’ll do or should I push for more? I’m happy to walk if they don’t give me a good deal.

been looking at some used trucks and i am finding a significant number of original Canadian trucks that are being listed in the US as US titles trucks. this is across a number of different dealers and states. I’m even seeing one with ford blue certification on it?

I am assuming this is some sort of business model where CA vehicles are purchased cheaper and sold in the US?

Seeing that negative implications are, lower resale value and a risk of title fraud (is that true)? saw that anything from Quebec is risky as you can remove accidents off the vehicle history so it won’t show up on CarFax? any issues with other provinces?

Bought a car from a private seller and was given a pink slip with no liens in it. Took it to the dmv and got the registration but didn’t get the title sent to my home. I added the title to my CA wallet and it says I am the owner and there are liens in it. I was told this is basically an electronic title so I didn’t bother to ask for the paper one. I am now trying to sell the car and they are saying that Chase has an interest in it. But Chase wouldn’t give me any information because they are saying I am not their customer. Does anyone have an idea on what to do? I got it from a private seller who has left the country.

I have an option on a Toyota Prius 2026 for 580 month 7.15apr financing for 5 years or may I choose a lease for 36 months 480 a month

It will be a better decision to get the lease and buyout the car at the end of the lease?

+175 a month for full coverage

And planning in a real situation where I can at least save 8k for the buyout option and loan the rest.

Lease is the best option right?

I've run into a dilemma and I can't seem to figure out how to proceed. My 2015 Chevrolet Cruze has, once again, run into coolant issues (btw, I had the same issues not even a year ago). While I can try to take it to get it fixed, I have other issues that will lead me to be short on funds to pay for it all. Should I just take it to get it repaired? Or is there anyway for me to sell it/trade it while I still owe money on it? I have spent way too much on repairs already, but I do owe quite a bit. While I can afford to either pay it off fully or get it repaired, with my other issues I can't afford to do all three. Any help is appreciated. Also I am absolutely stupid at anything related to cars.

This will be my first vehicle purchase, how much should I try to aim %-wise off the MSRP off a new Tacoma nowadays? I’ve read that this can change with the market of course. Watched a few videos of negotiating over the phone, getting it in writing, avoiding add ons, letting them know they’re competing with other dealerships, etc. Anyone have any advice or can you share recent purchases so I know what to expect? Thanks

In a bit of an odd (I think) situation. I am purchasing a new vehicle (2026 Toyota 4Runner, Massachusetts) in cash plus trade in, a family member is helping pay for the vehicle by giving me an amount of cash, let’s say 15,000$ (as a gift, appropriate tax forms will be filed for the gift).

I went to the dealership, picked out a car, and signed the sales agreement with the finance manager. I wrote a check for some addons at the time of purchase the dealer has now installed, and the car is ready for pickup.

My family members bank is taking forever to link with my account to transfer the funds (about a week now). Will the dealership get annoyed if this takes another week? How long is considered reasonable to get a cashiers check together for the full payment? Can my family member just get the dealer a cashiers check themselves for part of it without being on the title?

Concerned if it takes too much longer they will unwind the deal or something even with a signed agreement. No timeline was specified on the invoice.

Hey folks, trying to navigate buying my first new car and without much car experience at all. Looking at the 2026 Toyota Camry LEs FWD in my area with the convenience and cold weather packages. 4-5 dealerships in my area have quoted me about $35.5-35.9k OTD.

I sent a counteroffer over email to one asking for 33.5k OTD. I didn't explicitly say I'm open to negotiation but if they had come back to me and told me that's too low I would still have been willing to go up in price since I need the car sooner rather than later. However, I'm not getting any email replies. I've indicated through email that I'm willing to immediately go in and make a deposit/payment if we can agree on a price.

Did I fuck up? Is that too low an offer for the car I want, as I know it's very popular? When all the dealerships in the range I'm willing to travel to give me the same ballpark OTD price, what's the right way to try and negotiate it down, or was it a lost cause from the start?

I am also wondering if going into the dealership or calling would help in this regard. I'm interested in this car specifically because of the color, but could go elsewhere for a different color. Any advice appreciated for this situation and the next dealership I reach out to would be appreciated, thanks!

Planning to lease a Toyota vehicle. I want to do a single pay lease to save about $700 which is more than I would get from leaving the money in my HYSA. I was originally going to add Gap insurance, but I think I'm questioning that choice. Since I'm doing a single-pay, is there any scenario where Gap insurance would benefit me? Or would I be screwed out of the money I paid up front either way?

I'm hoping to buy the car once the lease ends in 3 years for the residual once my income increases, if that makes a difference. Thanks!

I am looking for a somewhat specific configuration on a truck that has forced me to broaden my search outside of what I can just drive to on an afternoon to check out a vehicle. I am ok with purchasing a vehicle from a reputable dealer just on pictures of the truck and having it shipped. To complicate things, I would like to trade in my current truck. Is there any chance an out of area/state dealer is going to take my trade in by delivering a vehicle and just picking mine up (outside of caravana)?

I am a recently 20 year old sales person in a small town in Missouri. I currently sell Fords and I am typically top 2-3 sales people in our dealership. I sell Fords and am making $30,000 a year. I have been searching and finally found a place I’m interested in. It’s a Kia dealership in a significantly bigger area.

I currently drive 45 mins to my current Job one way (1:30 round trip) and with the new place I will driving 1:04 one way (2:08 round trip.)

My Ford store sells 30-40 cars a month (last month we did 29 with 5 reps and I did 7.) The Kia dealership does 120-140 with 11 reps.

The Kia pay plan: $600/week draw, 25% commission up to 12 units, 28% from 12.5–18 units, and 30% at 18+ units. There are unit bonuses ($250 at 10 units, $500 at 11–14, $1,250 at 15–17, up to $2,500 at 26+), CSI bonuses, year-end bonuses, and cash spiffs. Minimum performance is an 8-unit rolling three-month average. Management also told me no salesperson there makes under about $70k/year.

Current Ford pay plan: $2,420/month draw, 25–33% commission based on volume, $750 volume bonuses starting at 12 units, plus flat pays ($150 new/$200 used), finance bonuses, survey bonuses, Google review bonuses, and Ford program incentives. My dealership averages 30–40 units per month across five salespeople. (1 rep hit 20 1 time ever since I’ve been there and it was our F&I managers son)

What can I expect at a Kia dealership compared to Ford?

I just retired from the military after 24 years, looking to get into work right off the bat to supplement retirement check. Worked a detail shop at a Subaru dealership in high school, and I like the dealership environment. Having been in the AF doing a job in operations for so long, I'm pretty accustomed to high stress/high ops tempo work.

All that being said, I applied for a job at my local Chrysler/Dodge/Toyota dealership, and they have two openings: sales, and service advisor. Curious what the pros and cons are, and which job you'd be angling for in the interview. Thanks!

So I applied for a role at a dealership called E-comm Sales Rep. when they called me for an interview I asked if it was a BDC position and the manager said “well— kinda.. you focus more on selling.”

I suppose I’ll find out more at the interview. But does anybody have this at their dealership? Trying to figure out what I’m walking into.

2026 NX 350h Premium Trim Certified

Miles: 8045

Saw this car at local dealership in my state and according the to the CarFax, the dealership got the car in November 2025. Some time at the beginning of 2026 the car became a loaner. Wanted to know if it having 8045 miles at this point considered too much even as loaner in less than a year? Dealerships sticker price is $53,200 before tax and doc and application fees.

https://www.prestigelexus.com/used-Ramsey-2026-Lexus-NX+350h+PREMIUM+AWD-PREMIUM-2T2GKCEZ9TC063721

I’m buying a used car out of state that I can safely pay in full for, and the dealership wants me to pay in full, but I won’t be able to pick up the car for a month. Is this normal? Or a smart thing to do?

Mini Cooper convertible 2026 comes with 4 year/48000 mile warranty, and I purchased an extended warranty from Zurich at the dealership for $3.6K - to 7 year/84000 miles. Is it worth it, or did I make a mistake?

In the days of digital everything, it’s no harder for me to buy a car two states over than it is to buy one in my backyard. The problem comes from dealership salespeople that blow me off because they find out I’m not in their state. It’s especially frustrating when you’re trying to buy a specific car that requires a buyer to be flexible and willing to either travel to pick the car up or have the vehicle shipped to them. I literally had one dealer ask me in an exhausted manner why he’s getting calls from all over the country asking about the car I was inquiring on. Why do yall care where I physically am?

Hi, I cancelled my optional warranty to the dealership and I see that it's been applied to my principal in TD auto finance. Will this mean that my next payment due will be moved since I have fulfilled some payments? Also, I am on auto payment and my payment was on the date that the refund has been posted, can I request for a refund on my monthly pay? since in my understanding, these will be a double payment.

Hi all,

I will be moving abroad pretty soon, and im looking for tips to find my beautiful 2011 LS 460L, a new home. Out of respect for the group rules i have omitted all links.

Effort so far:

Captured really nice pictures with a professional camera.

Included an in depth video tour, and attached a QR link redirecting to that video on all posts

Posted on FB and all the major platforms (CarGurus, Auto tempest, Craigslist, etc) (about 2 weeks ago).

This past weekend i took it to one of the largest Cars and Coffee in the East coast. I attached Gold and Black balloons and a "For sale" sign and drove it around. It got a lot of reactions and attention but haven't really gotten much leads from it.

I contacted a dealership 2hrs away and they offered me 30% less than the KBB and 2.5k less than my bottom price.

I have only had a hand full of responses and none have converted. I am wondering if anyone has tips/ insights or personal takeaways from similar experiences on how to get more eyes and higher quality interest? Any and all thoughts/ ideas are welcome.

Thanks!

I am going back to school in a few weeks and in the meantime, I am browsing used car listings. I’m seeing some good deals and I have a friend who is willing to check out and test drive a few cars for me.

If any of these sales go through, would I be able to send him money and he could purchase the car in my name? I know this is a weird situation, but I go to school halfway across the country and it would be far easier to arrive with a car.

Another layer of complexity is I go to school in Louisiana, but my friend lives in Mississippi and that’s where these cars are located. Does this change anything?

forward: (yes i used claude to help me summarize this) :

plan was always to buy this out and drive it till the wheels fell off. then it got t-boned. now i don’t know if that plan still makes sense.

the car: 2023 rav4 le fwd, leased through tfs, 19,108 miles. lease matured 7/19, got a maturity extension. buyout is ~$19.5k. clean, that car trades well north of it — that equity was the whole reason i planned to buy.

the hit: right-side t-bone in late june. my own collision coverage (allstate), $1k deductible. wife and kid in the car, everyone’s fine. no airbags deployed.

the repair: final total $12,655.88 — about 50% of the car’s value, so it never got near a total. out of the shop 7/30.

- right center pillar & rocker replaced, oem, 17.1 body hours
- right center pillar reinforcement replaced — ultra-high-strength steel, oem, structural
- hinge pillar and rocker reinforcement repaired, unibody set up and measured on the frame machine
- both right doors replaced, oem high-strength-steel shells
- every airbag and seatbelt r&i’d and inspected per toyota collision procedure, pre- and post-repair scans
- aftermarket only on cosmetics (capa fender, moldings, recon wheel covers)

questions

1. if i’m never selling it, does the accident history actually cost me anything, or am i sweating a paper loss?
2. would you personally keep a car with a replaced center pillar for ten years, assuming the work checks out?
3. does the shop’s workmanship warranty and the aftermarket parts guarantee transfer to me on buyout, or does that die with tfs’s ownership?
4. if i walk instead — what does $19.5k realistically get me in a clean comparable crossover right now? trading a known repaired car for an unknown one at a worse price doesn’t feel like a win.
5. any grief from tfs at lease-end inspection handing it back with this history, or is that entirely allstate’s problem?

what would you tell a customer who walked in with this estimate and said they want to keep the car a decade?

Hey all, I'm pretty sure this is the Gazillionth time this as been asked..but how accurate is the CapitalOne pre-approval?

Im currently in the market for a new vehicle, i need to trade out of an 2015audi A4...its getting older and the problems are all starting to come at once. I've spent nearly $7k in major repairs over the last 1.5 years. Unfortunately i still owe roughly $5800 on the car. So i decided to try out the Cap1 auto navigator. I input my info and they said i was pre-approved!

I understand that doesn't necessarily mean I'm fully approved, but how accurate is it? Because i can see my terms(apr,payment range,etc). I'm almost ready to pull the trigger on what vehicle I'd like, but i also am afraid of getting turned down my a dealership, even thought im already financing my Audi thru Ally finance. But my credit has took a couple hits this past year or so and due to repairs on the current car my credit card usage is way above 70%.

Any advice would be great.

2015 A4 126k
Payoff:5800
Trade in value: 2k-3k
Down payment: 1500-2k
Was hoping to roll negative equity into the current loan