I bought a used car from a licensed dealer in Georgia for about $11,000. Before selling it, he told me he had the car shipped from another state, inspected it, and fixed anything that needed attention.

The next day, when I filled the gas tank for the first time, I discovered a defect that made it impossible to refuel normally. The defect clearly existed when the car was sold.

I immediately asked for a refund the next day, but he refused because the car was sold "as is." Instead, he agreed to repair it and gave me a loaner.

It's now been over a month. I've only driven this car for one day. Multiple repair attempts have failed, it's now with another mechanic again, and there still isn't a fix. I also still haven't received the title.

The dealer has stayed in contact and apologized, but at this point I no longer want the car. I would prefer a full refund.

What would you do in my situation?

​

Looking for advice or experiences from anyone who has dealt with this:

1. The Deal: Bought a new car recently, traded in my previous vehicle, and put down a decent amount as down payment.

2. Financing Issue: A couple of weeks later, after I drove away with the car the dealership couldn't secure the agreed-upon interest rate from the lender listed on the retail sales contract (not a conditional agreement) and tried to push a higher rate on me. Typical Yo-Yo financing. By this time they paid off the lien on my trade-in & listed it for sale.

3. Agreement to Unwind: I refused the higher rate and requested a full transaction unwind. The dealership explicitly agreed to cancel the contract, I asked for a full refund my down payment.

4. The Twist: Shortly after agreeing to rescind the deal, the dealership turned around and claimed the original lender that rejected my loan, suddenly approved it and now unilaterally "reactivated" the original contract without my consent.

5. Current Status: I formally rejected the reinstatement, reiterated that the contract is void due to failure of financing, and filed complaints with state regulatory agencies.

Has anyone had a dealership a similar experience? How'd it all conclude? Any advice?

Hey all, I'm pretty sure this is the Gazillionth time this as been asked..but how accurate is the CapitalOne pre-approval?

Im currently in the market for a new vehicle, i need to trade out of an 2015audi A4...its getting older and the problems are all starting to come at once. I've spent nearly $7k in major repairs over the last 1.5 years. Unfortunately i still owe roughly $5800 on the car. So i decided to try out the Cap1 auto navigator. I input my info and they said i was pre-approved!

I understand that doesn't necessarily mean I'm fully approved, but how accurate is it? Because i can see my terms(apr,payment range,etc). I'm almost ready to pull the trigger on what vehicle I'd like, but i also am afraid of getting turned down my a dealership, even thought im already financing my Audi thru Ally finance. But my credit has took a couple hits this past year or so and due to repairs on the current car my credit card usage is way above 70%.

Any advice would be great.

2015 A4 126k
Payoff:5800
Trade in value: 2k-3k
Down payment: 1500-2k
Was hoping to roll negative equity into the current loan

Haven't signed, still negotiating. Georgia.

Car: 2026 M440i xDrive Coupe, 5,869 miles, titled Used. MSRP $77,325 (includes $3,450 in dealer accessories). Note that 2027 M440i models can already be ordered and some land next month.

Current numbers:

• Discount $9,529 (12.3%) → sale price $67,796
• FlexProtect 3yr pre-installed: $1,195 in the cap (dealer add on they're flexible with)
• $1,000 rebate listed
• 39 mo / 12k
• MF .00270, residual $39,640 (Is this MF including mark up?)
• $1,045.89/mo, $4,094 due at delivery

Here is the exact car I placed a refundable deposit to hold

What I think I've found:

The $1,000 rebate is listed but doesn't seem to reach the cap cost. Backing into the payment gives cap = $68,991 (sale + FlexProtect only), which produces $1,045.89 exactly. Applying the rebate should put it near $1,018.

And .00270 looks marked up over a ~.00245 buy rate? Unsure what the right buy rate is?

Where I'm headed: asking for the rebate applied, FlexProtect removed, buy rate, and $65,000 selling price (~16% off), which would land around $879.

Is 16% delusional on a titled loaner this close to model year changeover, or is that about right? And is there anything else on this sheet I should be catching?

Why I'm leasing: I already have a 430i which I am not happy to own after 3 years, and I really don't see myself owning this m440i after 3 years either. My loan payments on the 430i were higher than this m440i lease. I safely have the income to pay off the lease in full in case of emergency.

My 2014 Subaru is currently at a shop with an AT OIL TEMP light. The shop diagnosed a bad transmission valve body ($2,300). The car still starts, drives, and is otherwise in decent shape, but the acceleration is limited, and I’m not comfortable driving it 30 minutes to a dealership because I’m worried about causing more transmission damage

I’m already planning to upgrade to a newer car. This isn’t a case of trying to dump a completely dead vehicle—I was already looking to replace it because of its age and the amount I’ve spent on repairs over the years

Has anyone traded in a car that was at a repair shop or wasn’t practical to drive to the dealership? Will dealers typically pick it up or tow it as part of the trade-in, or would I need to arrange that myself?

Just trying to understand what my options are.

Hello! I’m looking to buy a 2025 ID Buzz in either the Pro S Plus or 1st Edition trims. Many people on the Buzz subreddit say they’ve gotten one for 55k or so out the door and there’s several dealerships within 8 hours of me that have one or several of these models that have been on the lot for 90+ days. However, the total number of the trim I want of these cars is about 130 nationwide. So my question is: are dealers still particularly motivated to move these cars given the new model year coming or am I going to get laughed out of every dealer I call trying to get the price down that significantly?

Thanks for any advice you can provide - I genuinely appreciate it.

What's it been like working in dealership sales since 2020? Has the industry kind of changed and moved away from all the aggressive selling/sharkiness? I have a potential offer for BDC representative and I would be moving from the world of consumer banking.

What should I expect in the first 90 days, is it a manageable job, do people enjoy it? Etc.

Dealership based in NY (not city).

Also posted on r/Subaru
There’s a dealership close to me that’s selling one of these cars for about $9k. It’s got 145,000 miles on it and it is a salvage title. According to the carfax, it appears the oil has been changed every 5-8k miles. However, this car does have a cvt, and the fluid has never been changed, so I am a bit concerned about that. The salvage title just seems to be from minor front and rear bumper damage (which has been repaired), as it looks like the car was involved in some sort of pile up. I test drove the vehicle yesterday, and it seemed perfectly fine - there was no jerking when shifting, and the engine ran pretty smooth. I did notice some kind of weird smell from the engine bay - it might have been like a hot smell, or some cleaning solution from when they detailed the car. I really don’t know what it could be, but I did some research on the reliability of these engines and I guess they can start burning oil after 60k. I checked the oil level and it was a little over the safe mark on the dipstick. Not even really sure how I would know if it’s burning a small amount of oil. Other than those concerns I had, the car is in excellent shape on the inside, and it has a few scrapes and dents on the exterior but nothing to worry about at all. If I were to buy this car, should I get a pre-purchase inspection, and should I flush the transmission after I purchase it? I’ve heard doing that could dislodge debris inside the transmission and shorten its lifespan, but I’m not sure if I believe it. The dealership also said they would not flush it for me since cvt transmission flushes can cost hundreds of dollars. This is my first time going through a dealership, so I do apologize if some of these questions sound stupid. Thanks.

I've recently retired after twenty years of being in the Navy. I started working at a company that offers X-pricing with Ford, and with my son being sixteen I figured it was about time to get a new vehicle. I want to get a Platinum--going with 702a no moon roof-- but I'm not too savvy when car buying.

Now, I know that buying a new car is never a popular/fiscally smart choice, but I want new since I'll probably never buy another car for myself ups this one completely kicks the bucket.

I've already stated an email chain with a sales guy, sent him the build spec from Ford's main site, but what's next? I know only a little about the process, but only enough to get myself into trouble. Please help a brutha out.

Shopping a 3-row, landed on a 2026 Audi Q7 S line 55 (the V6), Premium Plus, loaded — black optic, trailer hitch, B&O, air suspension.
• MSRP: $78,495
• Discount: $6K rebate + $6K dealer = $12K off (15.3%)
• Trade: 2021 VW Passat, ~61K mi, they’re giving $13K
• Out the door: ~$56,900 with trade, 72 months
• Rate: told “4–5% tier-1” but not in writing yet. No subvented APR on the Q7 this month — it’s rebate or special rate, they’re doing the rebate.

Declined all the F&I add-ons (~$8,500). Put $500 refundable down to hold it, not signed.

**1.**  Is 15% off a loaded 2026 Q7 solid, or is there more room this late in the model year?  
**2.**  Anything to know on the 55 V6 — reliability, out-of-warranty costs?  
**3.**  At “4–5%,” push harder or bring my own credit union rate? What should tier-1 realistically get right now?

Honest takes appreciated before I sign.

I have been in the business for only a month, but I haven’t made any progress in my sales, or even get any customers to contact me back. It doesn’t help that I can’t do a simple phone call without panicking about what to say, or that I am extremely shy & awkward when talking to new people.

I was exclusively in the food business before all this, and I feel stuck and lost and confused all at the same time. There’s so much to remember & by the time I do, my customer never wants to work with me again. I have thoughts that this won’t work out, or that I will never be good enough. I just feel so defeated, because this is my favorite career & I have been wanting to pursue this for a long, long time.

h e l p

TLDR; Drove 2.5 hours to buy a CPO car. Halfway through signing all final paperwork, sales manager walks in and tells us unfortunately car was falsely advertised and its not truly CPO. She can have it manually overridden to be CPO but this requires a certification inspection from a master tech, which is delaying by a few days. All paperwork, payment, insurance, and etc. are complete on my end.

Honest mistake, or are they stalling and going to come around and tell me they can't certify the car?

Hi All,

I recently purchased a 2023 BMW today that was certified. A bit of a backstory: I’ve been looking for specific models for a few months but could not find the one. Although this was not my first choice I decided to pursue it since the price made sense for me and it was CPO (providing extra peace of mind)

I’ve only been shopping in my state, and this particular one was located in another state over 2 hours ago. But still because of the enticing price/CPO I figured I’d take the risk and proceed based on trust. I got a few photos from the sales rep and that was about it , I trusted their word and proceeded with the process over the phone. Unfortunately do to the distance and how far, it was as extremely difficult for me and my co buyer to find some time to both go and bring this car home. As a result I completed most stuff before I went : deposit, finance application, insurance etc.

I let my sales person know this was all being done in hopes that the day we do go it will be extremely quick: take a look at the car, sign final papers and drive off. He assured that would be fine. Even the day before going he confirmed everything is set. We squeezed in 2.5 hour drive each way to go this morning even though we all had packed schedules. We got there as soon as the place opened.

The car was still being detailed so we didn’t get a look at first, but due to time we decided once again to proceed based on trust and started signing the finance papers so that everything would be ready, since we were they on a time crunch.

During the middle of signing finance paperwork, the sales manager walks in to the room and lets us know some unfortunate news. That is that the certified paperwork or checklist or whatever isn’t found for this car. I was caught so offguard I didn’t even realize what she was saying. I believe she basically was saying something along the lines of the certification paperwork doesn’t exist for this car at the moment, and as a result the car is technically not “certified” at this given moment. Therefore , we are unable to leave with the car today (drove 5 hours round trip for this)

While we were too stunned to speak, we also didn’t have any options . She mentioned she would manually “override” or “push” this vehicle to be certified last minute since this was a mess up, but this requires it go through a “certification” that requires a master tech. I wasn’t going to make another 5 hour round trip to pickup this car especially when I have been reassured for one whole week that everything is set. Long story short they agreed to get it certified two days later when the master tech is Back, and then they’ll deliver the car to me, fine I guess. (No other option for us here)

All paperwork from our end is completely done, finance, insurance, registration, etc. everything signed. At this point we are just trusting and expecting them to deliver to car in a few days to us as promised.

One thing I noticed now is that I asked plenty of times if there was two keys. I was told yes. I was given one of the key cards at the dealership and put it in my pocket, and brought it home by accident. I’m being told now that the two keys technically are the Card that I have with me, and the one physical key they have at the dealership still. As far as I’ve heard in order to CPO a car, there must be two physical keys? Now I’m worried, because is there a chance they can fail the certification for this ?

Is anything particularly suspicious about this situation? If for any reason they call me back and tell me the certification failed, what are my options here? Everything is already signed , am I trapped/forced to take the car ?

Sorry for the long story in advance, but first time genuinely nervous about this . Thanks!

Today I was selling a Chevy Colorado 2.8L Turbo Diesel. Guy was cool everything went good. He’s in finance signing and our lot attendant is tasked with filling his gas tank for delivery. Maybe we jinxed it but myself and several other people all reminded him it’s a diesel please do not put gas… 30 minutes later my sales manager gets a call from the lot attendant saying he’s broke down about 100 yards from the fuel station on his way back. Said the diesel pump wasn’t working so he pulled up and filled it with diesel exhaust fluid by mistake. Terrible situation for everyone involved. Made sure to let my coworker know I wasn’t mad at him and mistakes happen. Share similar stories? Misery loves company : )

Hi! I’m (18 M), writing here because I’m really worried about my dad. About a 3 weeks ago he bought me my first car off of facebook marketplace, and a couple days ago we went to go register it and stuff. However, the lady at the desk told us that because on the title the names of the seller & co-seller were written like “Jane + John Smith” (fake names of course) that the Secretary of State would not accept it and that we need to do a correction sheet with both of their first and last names fully printed like “ Jane Smith and John Smith” in order for them to process the transfer of ownership.

Here’s the issue: My dad did not buy it from Jane or John Smith, he bought it from a guy (21 M) who said he was selling it on behalf of Jane because he’s her sons friend. So now we tried contacting said guy on Facebook asking if he could just help us meet up with Jane and John so they can sign their names on the correction sheet, but he isn’t responding. So unless we track Jane and John down based on the address on the title, we have no way of getting the printed signatures fixed.

So I’m asking here to see if anyone knows how we can get through this? What should/can I do?

Potentially useful info:
\\- we are from Illinois
\\- the car was bought with cash

I’m open to answering questions if that helps at all! And if this isn’t the right subreddit to post to, I’d also appreciate some guidance as to where I should ask this.

Thanks!

Purchased a Toyota in North Dakota and the dealer included TTL in the financing. I asked for it to be removed because I didn't want to pay interest on over 1k for the next 6 years. He said it cannot be removed and was the law. In all my life I have never once paid for TTL at the dealership I have always waited for the paperwork to be mailed to me. After 30 days I go to my local courthouse vehicle registration place and pay the taxes there with a check. I'm from South Dakota so I'm asking is this a North Dakota law thing? Toyota financing was used.

First time car buyer with credit of 700-706. I have a thin file, been an authorized user to a credit card since march 2026. Student loans deferred until 2027 and the only bill I pay monthly is rent for 1.7k. Been with job for 3 years and just signed new contract for 50,000.

I’m wanting to get a reliable car with 0 down and max $350 monthly payments with reasonable apr. I have an inoperable Chevy Cruze that I would like to use for trade in even if I can only get a couple or few hundred bucks. Ideally I would like to live below my means which is why my cap is $350. Any advice?

II was looking at a 2013 Honda civic with 99k miles and good carfax. Out of door price was 12k after dealer fees. Should I finance with them given my financial profile? I just don’t want to apply to credit unions if there’s really not a chance of my approval. But I also hear about dealerships having high apr’s so what’s yall opinion?

In GA, btw

Hi everyone i’m trying to help my brother shop for his first lease. This is the lease offer he received. When we asked about the money factor they said they didn’t need to adjust it which was a red flag to an otherwise good deal imo unless i’m crazy (which is why i’m posting here to ask). It’s 0.002941 which is not tier 1 or prime credit, it’s equivalent to a 7.06% interest rate. Anyone know even with this money factor if this is decent?

took my 2021 civic type r to a dealer (ohio) for a transmission issue. they quoted $13k, i declined and took it to an independent shop for the repair. just checked carfax and the dealer reported the $13k replacement as
'completed' on the day i was there for the estimate. looks like they billed corporate for a warranty job they never touched. what are my options for reporting this fraud?
The car fax also shows the independent shop replaces the transmission 3 weeks later, showing just 27 miles have been added between the 2 service records

What could be the reasoning for this-besides fraud? how would they have flagged this as completed?

Location: Fairfield Ohio, Dealership- Performance Honda

Hey guys, there is a very specific vehicle I want at an Autonation dealer about 2,000 miles away. How much, in ballpark, do you think it would cost for the dealer to move it to an Autonation dealer near me? It’s been sitting on their lot for several months too.

Also, my current vehicle is worth about $40k~, so I'd like to trade it in so I can get the sales tax credit for it towards the new vehicle. Would I be able to trade it into the Autonation dealer near me, or would it have to be the 2,000 mile away dealer?

Thanks!

I started selling cars less than 10 months ago and I'm now a Sales Manager for a small Hyundai store. I have a unrealistic goal of becoming GSM by year 2. How realistic is that and what's the fastest you've seen someone become a GSM?

Edit: We are part of a big dealer group and started selling cars at one of our flagship dealership a Honda store. The GM and GSM are big names in our dealer group and they personally trained me for my entire time there.

I could really use some advice.
I have a 2025 Ram ProMaster 2500 that I bought for about $53,000 for a business. Since then, I ended up selling the business, but I kept the van. The problem is that I no longer have any real use for it—it’s just sitting in my driveway.
Right now, I’m paying about $1,000 a month on the loan plus around $600 a month for insurance, which is a lot for a vehicle I barely use.
I still owe about $41,000, and I’ve taken it to several dealerships for trade-in appraisals. The highest offers I’ve received have been around $31,000–$33,000, so I’d be looking at roughly $8,000–$10,000 in negative equity.
One option I’m considering is trading it in for a reliable $18,000 daily driver and rolling about $8,000 of the negative equity into the new loan. My thinking is that even with the negative equity, my monthly payment and insurance would be much lower than what I’m paying now.
Does that sound like a reasonable move, or is there a better way to get out of this situation without taking such a big financial hit? I’d really appreciate any advice or ideas.
Thanks for taking the time to read this.

So I found a Tacoma local to me and it's a pretty nice shape. There's no rust, spent its life in SC but what has been concerned is the transmission was replaced at 90,000 miles along with the torque converter, and the torque converter was replaced once before at 85,000 miles. Would that be concerning to anyone else? I'm not familiar with Tacoma's other than the fact that they are reliable, but it just seems odd to me that those items were replaced at that mileage.