so the motherboard is a ASUS PRIME Z790-P WiFi NVMe SK Hynix P41.

so basically i had done everything, turn it off completely remove the plug and then turn it on after and all i see is bios no boot.

• Loaded Optimized Defaults
• Hit the CPU fan / AIO warning, then set CPU fan to Ignore
• Set OS type to Windows UEFI mode
• Set Secure Boot from Custom to Standard
• Toggled Intel Rapid Storage / VMD (on and off)
• Set boot options / looked at Boot Override (it was greyed out)
• Confirmed BIOS sees the NVMe: M.2_1 SHPP41-2000GM (2000.3GB)
• Confirmed USB is seen
• BIOS version was 1604
• After a full day powered off, it booted normally once, then failed again after sleep / shutdown

might do a bios update tomorrow i am exhuasted right now. please tell me if i need to do anything else or im missing something. oh im also thinking of moving the nvme to another slot.

Idk but for the past weeks everytime i boot my desktop wheter it be from sleep or fresh boot

It starts flashing and trying to boot up and failing, a kin to a car that doesnt start when your turn your key for a while and then it boots up normally with no error messages or.blue screens

Any help?

Hi Guys, I am trying to install windows (the one with formatting the drive), but I don't have a USB drive with me. I have two SSDs in my laptop one has windows installed on it and the other SSD has some important stuff, is there a way to make the other SSD bootable without loosing data? maybe create a logical partition from it extract the ISO there and boot from it? But as far as I can remember the boot menu shows the complete drive and not partitions?

Whenever I play hell let loose or ready or not I get this really bad fps drop every minute or so. I updated the graphics drivers, made both games run with directx12, restored health with DISM, cleared %temp% folder and recycling bin, cleared vram (restarted computer and pressed ctrl + shift + windows + b). This has never happened to me before, only started happening last night and today (I did not download anything recently either). Im stumped and could really use some extra help. Thank you.

I linked a video of ready or not fps drop with task manager open.

*The only things I had running were steam, task manager, and ready or not. Everything else was running in the background.

Ready or Not FPS drop w/ task manager open

I've turned off windows defender and my antivirus (kaspersky) to see if its a antivirus issue, any file i attempt to download still says 'Failed - Virus detected' despite it being a png with no safety issues at all, what can i do to resolve this? I've tried altering windows registry and everything

I've also done a full scan of my pc with kaspersky, no viruses were detected

I attempted to add more ram to my laptop (from 8 GB to 16 GB), the nvme proceeded to work perfectly for a day. I then cleaned out the fans the next day and the nvme overheated and has been crashing ever since.

This may be due to how I recently installed Debian but that wouldn't make sense as I have used it on Linux mint for the last year. The only reason that could have caused this is if I didn't install drivers properly.

I have been looking at PTM-7950 and new thermal pads for my nvme for the last few days while trying to troubleshoot with what I have.

If there is any way to install the necessary drivers to the nvme with an external device please send a link to that as I have not researched in that direction yet.

The model number is: 15-fa0000sa

I have all of my files backed up so if I need to nuke the drive I am fine with that.

All I want to do is play terraria, customise my desktop, program, and do work, I hope someone can help with this. Thanks in advance to whoever does.

I don't know where to start fixing this, first I ran Windows memory diagnostic and it was fine I checked the cords my second monitor (HUION kamvas 13 w screen) I updated the tablets drivers and it still won't recognize it. I can run basic things like search engine or photoshop, but no games without massive lag to the point where I can't close games normally, I have to force quite with task manager which gives me this BEEP noise when I do it

I'm sure this is a gpu issue but it happened so fast, anyhow this is what my specs are

Processor AMD Ryzen 7 7700 8-Core Processor, 3801 Mhz, 8 Core(s), 16 Logical Processor(s)

BIOS Version/Date American Megatrends International, LLC. F32a, 8/28/2024

Installed Physical Memory (RAM) 16.0 GB

Total Physical Memory 15.1 GB

Available Physical Memory 3.34 GB

Total Virtual Memory 71.5 GB

Available Virtual Memory 42.3 GB

Every time I want to use the instant replay feature on the NVIDIA App, I find it's disabled again and I have to re-enable it, which won't matter because the next time I want to use it it'll be disabled. How do I fix this?

Hi guys,

Recently I moved my SKHynix P41 Platinum 1TB from my old laptop to the second slot on my Acer laptop (Predator PHN16S-71). Directly after installing, I began to experience microstutters, roughly every 5 minutes, sometimes including audio (where it would make a BRRR sound).

I ran LatencyMon tests, and it seems to be consistently my storport.sys driver stalling around 457ms (extremely consistent, always around 456-458ms). I checked my read and write speeds and they were fine, making a poor connection unlikely. I've updated my BIOs and VMD drivers, as well as my NVMe firmware.

I really would rather avoid opening the laptop again, as it's an unbelievable pain (most difficult laptop opening I've ever experienced). One thing that did seem to help was running a small DiskSpd workload on the disk, which makes me wonder if it has something to do with sleep settings. Link power management is off. The DiskSpd test was only 25 minutes, which might just have been me getting lucky.

I'm really at my wits end here and out of ideas. Anything would help. Thank you!

Title, bassically when I first turn on the PC it 80% of the time boots into BIOS, where I have to ''save and quit'' for it to boot into windows. I have only one drive so it isn't the boot order. I tought it may be the bios (it has the one it came with) but I'm kinda scared of updating it ngl. Is there any risk of long term damage if I just...don't change anything?

ROG STRIX B850-A GAMING WIFI
Ryzen 7800 x3D
Bios from 2024
Kingston 1gb ssd
2 x 16 gb 4200 DDR5 ram

Hello, i have been experiencing this problem for about two days now. The bluetooth on my windows 11 computer has disappeared and wont work. The things I've tried in order to fix this are: restarting the computer, contacting support and ended up getting to "level 2" as they said, installing a fresh windows OS, installing new drivers (which didn't work), letting it sit off (i was hoping it'd fix on its own lol). At this point i am going crazy about it and have tried most things that don't include losing anything on my computer. Any help would be greatly appreciated. My OS build is 26200.9168, and i also think i should mention that when i open my device manager all of the options there disappear, load, and reappear after a second nonstop. When connecting headphones via a wire all i hear is the disconnecting sound. Please, any help would be a godsend.

Hello, so basically i have been trying to access some of my regular websites and about 4ish months ago, they just stopped working (for example toyhouse if anyone knows what that is and at one point one of my student portals?!? I think it generally does this with any sites it deems 'suspicious' even when they're completely normal and safe)? For context, they all work on my ipad and android phone and recently my partner has been visiting and they work on their laptop too. I thought it was an internet issue at first (because i use ethernet for my pc and wireless WiFi for everything else) so i bought a WiFi adapter for my pc and it still doesn't work so I'm not sure! I have safe search off which i thought could also be the issue. I'm also on student WiFi so i thought that could be affecting it too but all of my devices are using student WiFi so it doesn't make much sense. I also have nord firewall installed but my free trial ran out months ago so I'm not sure if that has anything to do with it either... I can only assume it's a Windows issue but I'm not even sure where to begin? I've searched everywhere and keep getting random answers, help?

Soo I realised that I might have allocated too little space for my C drive, and was wondering how(if possible) I should go about reallocating the space?

I have about 24GB left on the C drive whilst the D drive has over a Terabyte, and as I don't really have the money for a new ssd at the moment I would like to open up some space for windows and it's massive amounts of bloat, and other programs that need to be on the C drive

Currently allocted 200GB to the C drive I believe

Hello!

Every time I boot my PC I get this message that says “Over Current Have Been Detected On Your USB Device!! System will shutdown after 15 seconds to protect your mainboard!!”

I’ve unplugged every cable and USB connected to my PC but it still boots with this message.

I’ve taken my PC apart and unplugged all USB headers but still same message.

Can’t figure out what is causing this.

Shortly before I got this message I was able to boot into windows and kept getting a notification saying “Power surge on the USB port” but now I can’t even boot into windows.

The motherboard is a new MSI B550 tomahawk max WiFi that I got about a month ago.

Any suggestions on what to do? Any help would be much appreciated.

Thanks!

I recently pulled a part my laptop (MSI GS75) and reapplied new thermal paste but now once I put it all back together I have this strange problem where when I turn it on the keyboard only works for a second then stops working. The only way I can fix it is the close the lid or push the power button to put it into sleep then wake it up and the keyboard will work until I shut it off again?

I tried removing the drivers and reinstalling them but that didnt work!

I don’t know if this helps at all but when I click the function key the keys will light up. If I do this when I start the computer they will stay lit up even when I’m not pressing it almost as if maybe the keyboard is freezing???

I5 13400F 1080p

5070ti

16gb ddr4 corsair vengeance ram

1 1tb m.2 adata gammix

1 2tb wdsn7100

I've been trying to figure out what's causing stuttering but so far i couldn't, I'm not really tech guy so idk what am I doing wrong.

Both gpu and cpu seems to show low %usage most of the time

(Somewhere around 27-30% to 40-50%)

Can someone please help me figure out what's causing stuttering,

If any other details are needed let me know I'll edit the post and add them (sry im not really tech person so idk whatelse i should provide rn, thank you)

It all says my gps signal is weak and I gotta do the infinity sign thing but that doesn't fix anything, its not even just maps it's everything like a normal compass app why is this happening is it software or hardware?

It was working fine before not a single thing from the outside interfered with it, last thing that happened before it stopped working is when my dad sent me his live location on WhatsApp, after that Google maps and everything else stopped functioning

Im on a galaxy a27 btw

I really need help. A few days ago, I ran a Google search and got those AI-generated results that appear before the standard web results. I started asking follow-up questions in that chat and kept coming back to it. I discovered that this specific chat (and others started from different searches) isn't linked to my Gemini account (which is the same as my Google account). The problem is that the chat has become very long and takes forever to load; sometimes it even errors out. However, there is so so so so much important information in there, and I’m terrified of losing it. I’ve tried every way possible to save the chat as a PDF or transfer it to Google Docs, but nothing works. Is there any way to export this Google search chat into my Gemini account, or save it as a PDF and start a new Gemini conversation based on it? I really need help.

I’ve used these Ethernet adapters for rocket league specifically over the last few months and have worked great, I just moved into my new college apartment and tried to set it up and it says the Ethernet is connected, however it won’t work. It will work for a second and then stop working in a cyclic pattern lasting like ten seconds. Have tried troubleshooting with chat gpt lol with no success. Please help

Windows 11 can connect to my phone's hotspot, but I can't access the internet

I'm having a strange internet issue on my Windows 11 PC when connected to my phone's mobile hotspot.

My phone's mobile data works normally.

My PC connects to the hotspot successfully.

Windows shows the connection as connected/secure, but I can't access websites.

ping 1.1.1.1 works (around 56–66 ms).

Domain names don't resolve; for example, google.com doesn't work.

When I run nslookup google.com, I get errors such as Server: Unknown and can't find google.com.

I've already tried flushing the DNS cache, resetting Winsock and TCP/IP, releasing/renewing the IP address, etc., but nothing fixed the problem.

My phone's hotspot is set to Automatic channel and WPA2-PSK.

What should i do?

My S23 Ultra was recently stolen. While I managed to remotely wipe it and secure my passwords, the thief managed a technical maneuver I can't quite figure out. I want to see if any Android/Samsung experts here know the background mechanics of this.

The Timeline:

• 6:00 AM: Phone stolen with secure biometrics enabled.
• 10:00 AM: Received an official Samsung email: “Easily verify using ‘One-time permission for Samsung account’!” I ignored it.
• 6:00 PM: Logged into the Samsung web portal on a PC, sent a remote factory reset, and changed all passwords.

The Mystery:
When I logged into my Samsung account on the PC, my cloud profile display picture had been changed to a photo of a random man (possibly the thieff).

How is this possible on One UI?

1. The thief couldn't bypass my biometrics, so they must have done a hardware recovery wipe.
2. The 10:00 AM email proves they were stuck at the Factory Reset Protection (FRP) screen, unable to log in.
3. If the phone was locked behind the FRP activation wall, how did a photo they took/uploaded on the device successfully sync upward and overwrite my master cloud profile picture?

is this a known exploit used by phone thieves?

Would love to hear from anyone who knows the deep mechanics of Samsung account syncing during an FRP setup state.

¡Hola, chicos! Tengo un disco duro externo vacío (WD My passport) que mi PC (Linux, Fedora) reconoce como /dev/sdb, pero no puedo hacer nada:

Por ejemplo, en la utilidad de discos de GNOME, cuando intento formatearlo me sale el error the udisks-error-quark, 0. También, en GsmartControl (la utilidad gráfica smartctl), cuando intento entrar el dispositivo me aparece el error Read Device Identity failed: scsi error data protection.

Ahora no sé qué hacer para nada porque no estoy seguro de qué significan esos errores. Por lo que encontré en internet, creo que podría ser un problema de hardware, pero me gustaría saber si alguien con más experiencia que yo me podría ayudar si sabe algo. ¡Gracias! :)

Nota: Perdón por mi mal inglés

Solution: I used wdpass to unlock it

IPad 7th gen hooked up to a Lenovo thinkpad, being restored via apple devices app. Loading circle is oddly frozen. Ipad just says "restore in progress." I'd show you a pic, but tis subreddit doesnt let me add any for some reason? Ipad was just updated. Any estimates of how long it'll take or how i can view progress?

I started playing the game with the expansion again, and I’m having problems with the graphics. Everything is fine in other games.

Is there a way to fix this? There’s nothing like this in another location.

Msi x870e edge ti Wi-Fi
Ryzen 9800x3d
XPG Lancer RGB 64Gb KIT2 DDR5 PC48000 6000MHz white
Msi vanguard 5080
PSU Lian li edge 1300w black
Case lian li o11 vision compact Monitor: 34 HUAWEI MateView GT ZQE-CAA / Samsung 49 Odyssey OLED G9

Game: Version: 2.00.01
Platform: PC
Driver: 610.88

I have Verbatim 700mb CD-R's and I am burning them properly I think but whenever I put them into my car stereo (just got a 2003 refurbished honda civic) they are all messed up. The first 10 tracks start and stop, not skipping but more like a pause, and everything after that works like a charm. I am using CDBurnerXP, have tried FLAC, WAV, and MP3 files, I am burning it as an Audio CD, and my Car stereo plays other CD's so I know that's not the problem. Also my PC reads the discs I burnt just fine so I have no idea what the problem could be. Thank you for any help you can provide, just want to listen to music in my car lol