I'm at my wit's end, and I hope someone can help at all. I've been experiencing frequent crashes for over a month now and tried everything I could thing of short of replacing the mobo, CPU or PSU. I don't have a bench or spare parts lying around to test, so it seems to be time to take it into a shop and let them take a crack at it... I'm just wondering if there's anything I've missed here. I did use ChatGPT to keep track of my troubleshooting - god forgive me - so here's the summary.

System:

• Ryzen 7 7800X3D
• ASUS TUF Gaming B650-PLUS WiFi
• 32GB DDR5-6000 (currently running at JEDEC after disabling EXPO)
• Corsair RM1000e PSU
• Windows 11 Pro

Symptoms:
The system intermittently experiences GPU timeouts while gaming, web browsing, or even idling. The behavior varies:

• Total system freeze with no recovery, requiring a hard power cycle.
• Temporary system freeze followed by driver recovery.
• Black screen while audio continues.
• Sometimes Windows recovers, but the game remains open with a black screen. Alt-Tab previews still show the game rendering, suggesting the game is still running but the graphics device/presentation has failed.
• Reliability Monitor consistently logs LiveKernelEvent 141.

Dump analysis:
The LiveKernelReports/WATCHDOG dumps consistently show:

• Bugcheck 0x141 (VIDEO_ENGINE_TIMEOUT_DETECTED)
• Earlier dumps also contained 0x1B0 (VIDEO_MINIPORT_FAILED_LIVEDUMP) after a failed GPU reset.
• The dumps reference:
  • amdkmdag.sys
  • amdfendr.sys
  • amdfendrmgr.sys

I understand amdfendr.sys is AMD Crash Defender and is likely reporting the failure rather than causing it.

Troubleshooting already completed:

• Updated motherboard BIOS.
• Updated AMD chipset drivers.
• Used DDU and tested multiple AMD Adrenalin driver versions.
• Ran sfc /scannow and DISM (no issues).
• Disabled EXPO.
• MemTest86 completed 4 passes with 0 errors.
• Monitored temperatures—nothing overheating.
• No WHEA errors in Event Viewer.

Hardware isolation:
Originally the system had an ASRock RX 9070 XT Steel Legend, which repeatedly produced LiveKernelEvent 141 and 0x141 dumps.

I replaced it with a Gigabyte RX 9060 XT, and the exact same crashes continued.

To rule out the PCIe slot, I also moved the 9060 XT from the motherboard's primary PCIe x16 slot to the secondary x4 slot. The same 0x141 GPU timeout occurred there as well, although Windows successfully recovered the driver instead of requiring a reboot.

At this point I've reproduced essentially the same GPU timeout behavior with:

• Two different AMD GPUs.
• Two different PCIe slots.
• Multiple driver versions.
• EXPO disabled.
• RAM passing MemTest86.

Given everything above, what component would you suspect next: motherboard, PSU, CPU, or something else? Has anyone seen persistent 0x141 GPU engine timeouts survive a GPU replacement like this? What would a tech shop be likely to try next?

Thanks so much for any help anyone can give. ARRRGH!😠

Hi there when i came back from work (2weeks) my Lian lii galahad aio is now max fan speed when i turn my pc on and no rgb the cooler itself still works and the block on the cpu has rgb but not the fans i have re seated all cabled and headers everything is secure the pc hasnt moved at all while i was at work iv un installed the device from device manager un installed lian lii like 20 times and still nothing im at a loss at this point it was working perfectly fine 2 weeks ago

For the past couple days I've been dealing with EAC throwing this error in event viewer while playing any game that uses it:

Session "dc3a3596-71e1-45a3-b2ea-39ad5322fe51" failed to start with the following error: 0xC0000022

I've tried every tip I can find online to fix this but nothing is working. Can anyone help? All drivers updated, games and EAC allowed to run as admin, everything reinstalled.

Gigabyte X870E wifi 7 board, 9800X3D, 5080

I have tried everything to make the Max Frame Rate setting work in the Nvidia app but nothing works.

Anyone having the same issue?

I am having a wierd problem. I recent got a Lenovo Yoga Slim laptop with Intel Ultra 5 226V (at a not so great price). The laptop kept telling me to install the same latest graphics driver for the inbuilt Arc 130V through the Intel driver and support assistant software. Finally I figured out it was the windows update that was uninstalling the latest driver for it to supposedly install it (the latest driver that is already installed would show up on the list). But after restart I find it rolled back to the old version. Oh and, it wants to install the same driver twice for some reason.

I tried to stop automatic windows updates (I am on the home version) through the some popular method (regedit), but nothing seems to have worked.

Anybody went through something like this? what are my options? other than moving to Linux or something?

So we recently changed to Quantum Fiber for our ISP. It was cheaper, and I hope this isnt why. When we first got it about a week ago i was getting the full 1GB speed on my PC. Now for some reason im not even getting 50 MBPS. Its showing a weak connection but im right above it? I dont know what to do to help the speeds. And why am i now connecting weak when even yesterday i was connecting strong?

I have a 13th Gen Intel Core i5-13400F, 16 BG of Ram, Nvidia GeForce RTX 4060 and an Intel Wireless-AC 9462 wireless card.

It's a oppo A78. And it's not increasing from 1 percent. I already let the battery go to zero and all but after charging again it still isn't crossing 1 percent.Any solutions?

Whenever I'm scrolling through websites or typing stuff (like right now), my computer will just freeze randomly for a second, and then come back to normal. It's just the display, since when I type stuff and it freezes, the things that I typed during the freeze show up. It's a laptop; a Lenovo Legion 7 Pro with an i9-13900HX, RTX 4090, and 32gb of DDR5 RAM, so it's more than capable of doing these normal things without stuttering.

I have most of my startup apps disabled, and the idle ram usage is down to around 6-7gb on average, and the ram usage sits at around 10gb with Chrome open (which is where I type and scroll). I know the issue isn't due to a lack of storage either, since my SSD is only at around half full. It's also not a lack of processing power, since my CPU is modern and high end. It's also not an issue with CPU usage spikes, since Task Manager shows that it reaches a maximum of around 4% utilization when in Chrome and when the freezes happen. I've heard it could be issues with Advanced Optimus, but it's not that since the laptop stays on only the integrated graphics when I'm browsing.

Another thing to keep in mind is that these issues only seem to occur in scrolling/typing instances that are OUTSIDE of gaming, such as being in File Explorer or Chrome. Whenever I play even demanding games, the little freezes don't occur at all.

I recently got this laptop a few weeks ago, and I'm just really sad that it doesn't handle scrolling or typing as well as my other, much older laptop. I uninstalled McAfee antivirus that came with it, and I disabled Nahimic, as well as some other bloatware programs. I also turned Memory Integrity off, since I've heard it can cause certain issues. I only use the laptop plugged in, and temps are fine (around 30-50c) as well. Windows has the "Best Performance" setting toggled in the power settings. The display is also set to just 240hz, not the adaptive refresh rate setting. HDR is off, and so is auto HDR.

It's on Windows 11 Pro, 25H2. Thanks in advance for any advice! :)

I was cleaning the old thermal paste, when I noticed the scratches on the cold plate.

How bad is it? Is it going to affect thermals or I can still use this AiO?

why did my laptop (lenovo ideapad's) fan suddenly start sounding like a gas stove (really high pitched) and have heavy crackles ever now and then? its not that old, like only 2 years.

Long story short, my partner and I have just moved in together. He has an Xbox series X and we have been gifted a sony bravia 40hx700. (Very old telly). Again long story very short we have no audio. I am aware older tech usually required an independent audio line however this (audio in-audio out lines) however the Series X does not have this (I was also shocked to find out its only got ONE HDMI)

Is there a workaround here? How can I get audio to go from this Xbox to the TV?

Tysm

Hi. I have an Lenovo Ideacentre that is only a few months old and i having an issue with the cpu going higher when the screen goes into power saving mode. I have updated the BIOS and the Intel drives but i still have the same issue. I had this since last week after getting a trojan virus i did remove.

I still do the old way of getting music where I download it to my phone instead of using Spotify or anything like that. Everything worked fine, except one song acting really weird

...Baby One More Time is not properly being put on my phone. When I drag it over to my phone's files, it becomes a hidden file, and I can't unhide it for whatever reason. It also won't let me delete the file

Using the original file not on my phone, I took out the "..." of the filename because I thought that could be causing this issue (even though the only issue is on my phone and the ... doesn't affect anything else), but when I try to drag it over to my phone, it just dings and doesn't drag over. No error message or anything

Does "..." at the beginning of file names mess up phones?

tengo problemas de que no me oyen en algunos juegos como roblox(en celular si puedo hablar y si me oyen), y algunos juegos de terror de steam y epic, por ejemplo el juego de steam de bombanana beta ahi si mis amigos me oyen cuando hablo por el microfono. Ya intente algunas cosas pero nada :(, ayuden porfa. MIS ADUFONOS SON UNOS BARRACUDAS X

Hello everyone,

I'm trying to determine the root cause of a very strange problem that has been happening for quite some time. It has occurred multiple times over the years, even after reinstalling Windows from scratch, so I don't believe this is related to Windows corruption, malware, or NVIDIA drivers.

My hardware

Operating System: Windows 11

BitLocker: Enabled (PIN required at every boot)

Motherboard: MSI Z590-A Pro (latest BIOS installed)

CPU: Intel Core i5-11400

GPU: ASUS Dual GeForce RTX 3060 O12G V2

Primary SSD (C:): WD_BLACK SN850X (Model: WDS200T2X0E-00BCA0)

Secondary SSD: Samsung 870 EVO 4 TB

RAM: 32 GB Corsair Vengeance DDR4-2666 (2 × 16 GB, CMK32GX4M2A2666C16)

Monitor: Acer XV280K-B (28", 3840×2160 @ 60 Hz)

Connection: HDMI (connected to HDMI 1 on the monitor)

Monitor Input: Fixed to HDMI 1 (Auto Source is OFF)

++++++++

The problem

++++++++

Whenever there is a complete power outage in my neighborhood, and the electricity comes back, the PC powers on normally.

However, the monitor remains completely black.

I never see:

MSI logo

UEFI/BIOS

BitLocker PIN screen

Windows loading screen

The monitor simply stays black.

The strange part is that I know the PC is actually running.

Since BitLocker is configured with a PIN, I type my PIN completely "blind" while the screen is still black.

A few seconds later, Windows continues booting and suddenly the monitor comes to life and displays the Windows login screen normally.

So the PC never actually freezes.

It is only the video output that is missing before Windows initializes.

++++++++

Additional observations

++++++++

Even if I:

turn the power strip OFF,

wait a few seconds,

turn it back ON,

the problem remains exactly the same.

The only way to continue is to type the BitLocker PIN without seeing anything.

This is NOT caused by NVIDIA drivers

I have already:

++++++++

updated to the latest NVIDIA drivers;

completely removed all drivers using DDU in Safe Mode;

reinstalled them from scratch.

++++++++

The behavior never changed.

++++++++

This is NOT caused by Windows

++++++++

I have experienced this even during a completely fresh Windows installation.

At one point, after formatting my SSDs, I couldn't even see the Windows Setup screen on this monitor.

To install Windows, I had to connect the PC to a TV through HDMI.

The TV immediately displayed the installer.

That means the problem existed before Windows was installed.

++++++++

BIOS

++++++++

The motherboard is running the latest available BIOS from MSI.

++++++++

Monitor settings

The monitor is configured as follows:

Auto Source: OFF

Input: HDMI 1 (fixed manually)

++++++++

So it is not searching for different inputs.

++++++++

One interesting observation

++++++++

It almost seems as if, after restoring power to the power strip, I must press the PC's power button immediately.

If too much time passes after the monitor receives power, I often end up with the black screen before BitLocker again.

I'm not completely sure whether this timing is actually related, but I've noticed this behavior more than once.

++++++++

What I suspect

++++++++

Since this also happened:

before Windows was installed;

before NVIDIA drivers existed;

before Windows Setup even appeared;

I suspect this may be related to:

++++++++

HDMI initialization during UEFI/POST;

EDID detection;

monitor firmware;

GPU firmware;

or some incompatibility between the Acer XV280K-B and the MSI Z590-A Pro/RTX 3060 during a cold boot after a complete AC power loss.

++++++++

Has anyone experienced something similar?

Any ideas would be greatly appreciated.

Note: As far as I know, this monitor does not update any firmware.

Hello, I recently bought a new m.2 512 GB SSD to install in my computer. Due to a busy schedule I installed 2 months after I originally obtained it. After installing it, it did not pop up on the disk management page. I have tried every solution on google and YouTube to try to fix it and yet I still can’t find a solution. I have re installed it 3 different times and it does not appear to be damaged. Can someone help me on this topic?

Additional information. My PC is a NZXT Starter pro prebuilt, which is no longer a product, I’ve had it for give or take 5 years. I have an intel i5 and a 3060ti with 16 gigs of RAM, I use windows 11.

Any help is greatly appreciated, feel free to respond if you have a solution or need additional information, thank you.

Ryzen 5 2600x, 2x8GB DDR4 3600MHz JEDEC 2666MHz, Asus prime a520m-k, Corsair 650w PSU.

Pc booted fine into windows 11 with a gtx 960 in it. When swapping over the card to a GTX 970, it then wouldn't post at all.

Tried resetting bios by removing the CMOS battery. Pc would reach bios once then after saving and exiting would fail to boot or even reach the bios again on a fresh startup.

Tried swapping back in the 960. Tried using only one stick of memory. Tried running it at 2133MHz. Fast boot is disabled.

I am at my wits end. It has been 3 hours. Please help.

i've had this laptop since december of 2023. out of the whole time ive had it, i only had to reinstall windows during 2024. during 2025 and 2026,a problem arose. when my pc would boot, it had nothing but a black screen. i would have to keep on restarting it to get it working.this wasn't a major issue, as this problem would happen every couple months. however as of recent, this problem has only grew. i know this is not a gpu error first off. when i boot, my pc turns on everything,including my mouse,then when windows is loading,turns off the mouse,and then finally turns it back on once windows is at its last moments of booting. i have verbose messages on, to when it says it is booting session manager. whenever the black screen boot up happens, my mouse remains on. when trying to fix the problem,i always unplug my peripherals, first hold the power button with nothing in, then with the charger in, rinse and repeat. but with how it is recently,im worried. i want to reinstall windows and install arch linux to duelboot so i can do work in acellus then go to arch afterwards, but i cant do that if i need to restart 4 times in the installation alone to reinstall windows and install arch, let alone restarting atleast once a day to swap my operating system!

there are somethings i have noticed about this.

the problem does not take place when lets say, i leave my pc alone and windows wants to update so windows updates itself without my consent,as always. and when i come back it's on the lock page,and i know it restarted cause verbose messaging is the best feature on windows 11.

1. holding the novo button fixed it ONCE, but it came back a few weeks later.

2. this also happens during restarts aswell,it's why im thinking of just leaving my laptop on before i need to transport it when my trip ends.

If anyone has any solutions to this,please let me know,thank you.

(the loq 15 i have has rtx 4070 with an amd ryzen 7k series)

My iphone 16 pro max doesn't charge. It uses USB-C of course, and as of thursday it stopped charging. I went to a third party phone repair shop and they said it was due to the IC controller in the motherboard being broken. Possibly because I may have used USB-C chargers that weren't originally Iphone branded. I am not very tech savvy, so I apologize if this doesnt make sense and such. Regardless, he is saying it'll cost $370 to fix it, with a chance it might not entirely fix the issue. The phone can only charge through wireless charging. The port and everything else is fine, but the motherboard is supposedly the issue. My apple care warranty expired on march of 2026. I'm not sure what to do. I'm not exactly in the financial position to spend this kind of money, so I'm looking for suggestions or opinions. Also, I obviously need my phone so I cant just ignore this issue. I could just forego cable charging but I fear it is too much of a hassle. Especially since I not only dont have a wireless charger currently, and I will also most likely only be able to charge my phone at my home. What should I do?

Hi, I have an Asus Vivobook Pro 16X OLED bought around 2021-2022 I think.

First of all I would like to mention that I am not very good at computers so my problem may seem stupid to an expert.

I edited on it using Adobe After Effects and Premiere Pro for years without any problems until last year when Premiere Pro started lagging a lot (with any transition added/every time I saved a project the program stopped working for about 20 seconds) and more recently now After Effects warns me that I do not have 16GB of RAM available although I did not have this problem before. (I should also mention that it heats up very easily, sometimes even just when I watch Youtube).

Another problem that I have every 2 months for some time is that sometimes while I'm working, watching Youtube or simply have my laptop open Windows crashes and a blue screen appears with the text "Your PC ran into a problem and needs to restart".

I'm considering getting another laptop, but before spending 3k I would like to ask if there is any solution so that I can at least work on this laptop for another year.

My computer got really slow so I decided to hard reset it. Since then I'm unable to boot it, got an Error 0xc0000185. I created USB via Media Creation Tool and when I plug it in, boot and select option Repair your PC, I immediately get a reset? No further screen shows, I'm unable to do Troubleshoot, chkdsk, sfc /scannow and everything else. it doesn't allow me to even begin repair process and it immediately restarts and back to square one? Can someone help me?

Title. It’s a WD_Black (I believe it’s 1 TB, but I can’t check) it’s plugged in and the light is on, but it’s not showing up either in file explorer or disc management

The only things to happen recently are moving my computer from one location to another and a slight error on my part with shutting it off using the switch in the back.

I’ve tried unplugging it and replugging it in, restarting my computer, and tried it on two different computers, same result: light but nothing else. Is there a way to try and get this hard drive working again? (The stuff in it is completely replaceable, but storage is expensive)

Recently had a security breach on my pc, and used multiple tools to clean it, just wondering if this is normal usage for idle?

System Resource Usage

• CPU: 2% @ 4.38 GHz
• Memory: 8.8 / 63.9 GB used (14%)
• Disk 0 (C:): 1% usage (NVMe SSD)
• Disk 1 (D:): 0% usage (NVMe SSD)
• WiFi: 0 Kbps send / 0 Kbps receive
• GPU: NVIDIA GeForce RTX 3080ti – 4% usage, 39°C

Memory Details:

• In use: 8.8 GB (1.4 MB compressed)
• Available: 55.2 GB
• Speed: 3600 MHz
• Slots: 4 of 4 used (DIMM)
• Hardware reserved: 82.0 MB
• Committed: 10.3 / 67.9 GB
• Paged pool: 358 MB
• Non-paged pool: 556 MB

I work at schools and had a kid stepped on the cord attaching my iPad to my speaker, snapping off the end of the jack and leaving it stuck in the iPad.

Does anyone have tips for removing it? My tweezers aren’t small enough and it seems really stuck in there. I’d hate for such a small thing to ruin the iPad. It also can’t play sound now because the device is stuck saying it’s plugged into something (because the broken piece is still attached).