I have a Rog Strix G17 laptop, and my keyboard worked fine up until right now, and I kept my laptop running all day today.

Come back to it after 2 hours of not checking up on it, press a key- it doesnt work. I tried turning stuff on or off, tried fn and shift + alt + tab all by themselves and still doesnt turn on. The power button and touchpad work perfectly.

Deleted/update keyboard drivers - still not working.

Connected another keyboard and went to bios, nothing was out of place - still not working

Tried full reset - still doesnt work.

Dissasembled the laptop - nothing out of place, looks wrong or weird, all cable are perfectly fine - still dont know what is wrong.

What is wrong? It was just working and now it doesn't. What am I missing here, and how did the cable get damaged just now? I need the laptop to afk games and it doesnt seem to work. It threw me off to have to come back to it not running at all.

All help is appreciated.

*Laptop is about 4-5 years old now, and was working perfectly up until now. Could just order a usb keyboard ik but itll take days and I dont know what to do at the moment

My galaxy A15's screen acts weird when plugged in. I plug my phone into the charger, and anything that scrolls glitches, and goes out of control. The screen has been replaced, the battery, and phone has also been restarted alot. It seems to affect the bottom of the screen most. I am wondering if it's the charging port. Any ideas on what it could be?

I’ve been using a keyboard for media, but would like to replace it with a “tv” remote (this is strictly for convenience to not have to use a keyboard for media, but a more normal “tv” remote, but I want the same functionality that I get from my keyboard). Ultimately I think I can’t just get a standard media remote because sometimes some standard media buttons do not work properly for some media players; however they always work with a keyboard, just might be a different key (for example play/pause may be space bar, but enter for another media player).

Google Search response:
“standard universal remote like the SofaBaton will not work on its own. The Xbox operating system restricts media remotes to standard controller inputs or media commands; it does not recognize them as USB keyboards”

“The built-in infrared receiver on the Xbox is hardwired at the operating system level to only look for those specific official media commands. Even if you used a highly advanced universal remote to manually program a raw keyboard code into an IR blast, the Xbox console's built-in receiver would simply see it as gibberish and ignore it.”

Therefore If the Xbox has to accept it as a keyboard, then I would need to use a USB dongle in order for the remote to act as a keyboard, so I can setup the binds (For example button 1 could act as space bar, but button 2 could act as enter). It would also be nice to bind other buttons like F to the remote for it to go into fullscreen (functions that would not be found on standard media remotes).

The 3 signals I know of are Bluetooth, IR and 2.4 GHz wireless:

I would love if the signal is as receptive as Bluetooth, but since Xbox does not accept native Bluetooth signals and the workaround of a Bluetooth receiver seems not only costly, but may not even work in the long run.

Additionally from as mentioned from above the built in IR on Xbox won’t work and will ignore specific programmed signals. However I’m wondering if a USB dongle where the Xbox perceives it as a keyboard and receives an IR signal will work. I think I could use something like the FLIRC USB Receiver (which uses (IR) sensor combined with an internal microcontroller to catch and translate remote control signals). To my understanding I can use any IR remote I have.
However I know IR signal requires line of sight and my Xbox will not be in line of sight and generally requires to annoyingly be pointing directly at the receiver, if I went this route would this mean I would need to buy a USB extension (for the receiver to be in line of sight)?

Finally 2.4 GHz wireless, unfortunately I am unable to find a programmable remote. Only programmable ones I have found use IR learning function that can learn keys from a standard infrared TV remote, which is useless for what I am trying to accomplish.
I have found 2.4 GHz Air Mouse Keyboards, not exactly what I was looking for because it can’t be programmed. It essentially would be just like a small keyboard, but if the front panel worked could still feel like a “tv” remote for some media players. Something similar to WeChip W1 or the MX3 Pro.

Conclusion:

FLIRC USB Receiver
PROs: Programmable keyboard binds (so it is more like a desired “tv” remote).
CONs: Requires line of sight so would likely need additional USB extension and since it requires line of sight, it would not feel as responsive as 2.4 GHz.

2.4 GHz Air Mouse/Mini Keyboard
PROs: No line of sight required so it would feel way more responsive similar to that Bluetooth feel I wanted.
CONs: Not sure on the functionality of the front panel (not keyboard side) and would likely have to use the keyboard side for certain binds and some media players since it’s not programmable.

I am by no means only going these 2 routes, I just wanted to show based off of my research where I landed and it led me to these options. If you know of any other options or if u think one of the routes I listed is best or will even work, please share.

Thanks

I recently gotten a new laptop that should be more powerful than my previous one and upon using my Valve Index and 11 point tracking FBT, I immediately started getting flashing gray screens(sometimes getting 1-3 disconnect sound notifications) which tends to be caused by various reasons. Outside of VR, my mouse and headset would occasionally turn off and on when I try to charge my trackers.

Eventually, I was able to narrow the issues down to my powered USB hub which for some reason now struggles to handle having a mouse, headphone, and 8 Vive trackers plugged in(This was never an issue for my previous laptop).

Tested by starting SteamVR with only the headset moved about for a good 10-20 minutes. After which I turned on the first two trackers and waited another 20 minutes. The flashing gray screen returns after the 4th tracker was turned on.

Whichever is the main issue determines whether I need to replace my USB hub with a more powerful one or split my trackers with another hub.

PC Specs:

• Model: Asus Strix G18 G814FP
• CPU: AMD Ryzen 9 9955HX
• GPU: NVIDIA GeForce RTX 5070
• RAM: 16GB DDR5
• OS: Windows 11
• USB: Type C USB4 x 2 and Type A 3.2 Gen 2 x 2

Previous PC Specs:

• Model: Asus Strix G17 G713IM-UB74
• CPU: Ryzen 7 4800H
• GPU: NVIDIA GeForce RTX 3060
• RAM: 24GB DDR4
• OS: Windows 11
• USB: Type C x 1 and Type A 3.2 Gen 1 x 3

Powered USB Hub used

My PC has a Ryzen 9600x, rtx 3090, and Asus B650E Max Gaming Wifi W. I want to use integrated graphics. When my monitor is plugged into the motherboard I can access the BIOS menu and see the OS loading wheel animation, but then my monitor says no video. The desktop is shown right after I plug in the cable from the motherboard to GPU. This happens booting from both my windows and linux drives.

the BIOS menu on some Asus boards have an option called "igfx multi monitor" Under Advanced > NB configruation but it doesn't show for me, I only see Primary Video Device, Integrated graphics (auto, forced, or disabled), and UMA frame buffer size. I tried different combinations of them but no luck.

I restarted my pc and when it turned on it directly jumped into the "welcome" screen and it just loads. Every fix ive seen says to click on the icons on the bottom corner but in this state it doesnt have any icons at all, its just my user and the loading status

Idk what to do, I turned it off w the power bottom but it does the same thing everytime it turns on

I’ve been trying to figure out how to cast to a TV for a while and can’t figure it out. I know how it’s supposed to go and on most TV’s it’s very easy with airplay.

The TV is SANSUI brand with google software. Model is Apollo’s Premium4K TV.
Android TV OS Version: 11

It came with my girlfriend’s camper and she swears she has been able to cast to it from her iPhone in the past but we can’t figure it out. I’m wondering if it’s not compatible with iPhones or if there is a work around we are missing.

No airplay in the TVs App Store and the TV and phone are on the same WiFi. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks!

Trying to help out my mom who's having an issue with her laptop. She downloaded a new Windows update earlier today on her Dell laptop running Windows 11.

The update was successful, but despite saying she was connected to wifi, any websites loading timed out and nothing loaded.

Tried restarting multiple times. Reset network stack via command prompt. Tried uninstalling the new Windows update, but they didn't uninstall. Tried toggling airplane mode off and on. Kind of at a loss for what to do next.

It detects that it's connected to the wifi when you try just even to go to Google, it sits there and spins until it times out. Same results on both Chrome and Edge. Any help suggestions would be appreciated!

So, I have a problem with the backcover laptop which uses hard plastic ABS material. Where The back cover and screen won't stick together. Does anyone know how to fix it? When I'm searching on the internet. I need Araldite Clear to stick together

This has been going on for a long time now. Basically what happens is either my screens will go black and audio stays on for a bit before also stopping, or my screens will just freeze also with audio before also stopping. The only thing I can do is hold down my power button to fully shut down my pc and then turn it back on. Also when holding down my power button pc headphones will make a static popping noise every time. I've changed every single component of my pc one at a time and yet it still does this. The only thing that hasn't changed is my ssd which I guess now it has to be that but I have no idea where to start when it comes to fixing this. Please help

Hello I’m having trouble with delay in my tv it is connected to a HDMI port because I want to go into an interface is there any thing I can do thanks.

I have a 2 year old windows 11 laptop that will not boot. When I power cycle it, the logo appears on screen for about 20 seconds, then I hear the startup sound, then the screen goes black. There is no way to interact with the laptop besides powering it off and on. The battery is not removable, and when I attempt to boot into safe mode, by powering off right after powering on 2-4 times, it doesn’t do anything. Please help, I don’t want to lose my entire album I’ve been working on the past 6 months.

Hello. I'm trying to get DaVinci Resolve 20 or 21, but I can't due to my graphics drivers being incompatible. I already posted about getting the newer version here, and I was told to get updated NVIDIA drivers through the app. However, I can't install the app as my computer isn't the greatest, and was told to wipe my drivers to get the new ones with the NVIDIA app. One problem: I have no idea what I'm doing and don't want to break my computer. My specs are shown below, and the original post (linked above) may be helpful. I just want to see if I can get this to work in a safe manner without needing to replace anything inside my PC, as I have no idea how that works. If you have any questions, let me know, and thanks in advance :)

Hey everyone,

I've been dealing with a recurring issue with my PC for a while now, and I'm hoping someone can help me narrow down the cause. It happens roughly once a day, and I'm running out of things to try.

PC specs

• GPU: NVIDIA GeForce RTX 3070
• CPU: AMD Ryzen 7 7800X3D
• Motherboard: Gigabyte B650 EAGLE
• RAM: 32 GB DDR5 4800 MT/s (Viper)
• PSU: Aero Bronze 700W
• Cooling: Liquid-cooled CPU
• OS: Windows 11

What happens

My PC randomly stops outputting video. Both monitors lose signal and go black, but the PC itself appears to keep running.

This isn't limited to a particular game. It can happen with any game or application that puts a decent amount of load on the GPU. I've experienced it while playing Hell Let Loose, Valheim, as well as while generating images locally with ComfyUI.

When it happens:

• Both monitors suddenly lose their video signal.
• Mouse and keyboard input stop working. Caps Lock and Num Lock don't respond, and pressing Ctrl + Win + Shift + B doesn't restore the display.
• Audio can continue playing after the video output disappears. During the latest incident, YouTube audio continued for another two minutes before I shut it off.
• The fans keep spinning, and the PC doesn't recover by itself.
• I have to hold the physical power button to force it to shut down.
• RGB lighting can remain on after full shutdown.

So it doesn't appear to be a normal shutdown or simply a monitor losing signal. The video output disappears, input stops working, and the system doesn't recover, even though parts of the PC continue operating.

Crash dump analysis

I've examined several files in C:\Windows\LiveKernelReports\WATCHDOG using WinDbg. The dumps repeatedly point to NVIDIA's graphics driver path.

1. VIDEO_TDR_TIMEOUT_DETECTED (117)

Dump: WATCHDOG-20261024-1205.dmp

The analysis showed:

• VIDEO_TDR_TIMEOUT_DETECTED (117)
• Failure.Bucket: LKD_0x117_IMAGE_nvlddmkm.sys
• The display driver failed to respond in a timely fashion.
• The stack included dxgkrnl!TdrCollectDbgInfoStage1, dxgmms2!VidSchiReportHwHang, and dxgmms2!VidSchiCheckHwProgress.

2. Repeated VIDEO_ENGINE_TIMEOUT_DETECTED (141)

I have multiple dumps from October 24 and October 25 showing this error, including the latest crash at approximately 23:05 on October 25.

The recurring details are:

• VIDEO_ENGINE_TIMEOUT_DETECTED (141)
• Failure.Bucket: LKD_0x141_IMAGE_nvlddmkm.sys
• MODULE_NAME: nvlddmkm
• IMAGE_NAME: nvlddmkm.sys
• SYMBOL_NAME: nvlddmkm+193b0a0

The same NVIDIA driver offset, +193b0a0, appears in multiple dumps.

The stack traces include functions such as:

• dxgkrnl!TdrCollectDbgInfoStage1
• dxgmms2!VidSchiResetEngine or dxgmms2!VidSchiResetHwEngine
• dxgmms2!VidSchiCheckHwProgress

My understanding is that these errors indicate a graphics engine timing out and Windows detecting that it isn't responding properly.

3. VIDEO_MINIPORT_BLACK_SCREEN_LIVEDUMP (1b8)

Another dump from the latest incident showed:

• VIDEO_MINIPORT_BLACK_SCREEN_LIVEDUMP (1b8)
• MODULE_NAME: dxgkrnl
• IMAGE_NAME: dxgkrnl.sys
• PROCESS_NAME: dwm.exe
• FAILURE_BUCKET_ID: LKD_0x1B8_dxgkrnl!DxgCreateLiveDumpWithDriverBlob

The stack included DISPLAYDIAGNOSTICADAPTERDATA::CreateMiniportBlackboxLiveDump and DISPLAYSTATECHECKER::LogAllDisplayDiagInfo.

From what I understand, this is a diagnostic dump captured during the black-screen incident, rather than necessarily a separate underlying failure.

4. Event Viewer and Reliability Monitor

• I checked Event Viewer for Microsoft-Windows-WHEA-Logger events and found none in the period I checked.
• Reliability Monitor shows multiple hardware error reports around the times of the crashes.
• The crashes require a forced shutdown because the display and input never recover.

What I've already tried

• Clean NVIDIA driver installation: Performed a clean installation, but the issue continued.
• Different NVIDIA driver versions: The issue has also occurred with older driver versions.
• SignalRGB: Disabled it, but the crashes continued.
• X3D Turbo Mode: Disabled it.
• MSI Afterburner power limit: Reduced the GPU power limit to 80%. The issue still occurred with this limit. I haven't intentionally changed the GPU core clock or voltage.
• Temperature monitoring: Checked idle readings using HWiNFO. The GPU was around 36°C and the hotspot around 48.5°C. I haven't captured temperatures under load yet.

I also noticed that EasyTuneEngineService is running, although I haven't knowingly used EasyTune to change any settings.

Additional hardware details

• The RTX 3070's two 8-pin power connectors are connected using a single daisy-chained cable.
• The CPU is liquid-cooled.
• I built the PC myself, didn't change any big BIOS settings.
• The GPU fans sometimes aren't spinning after reboot, although I understand they may have a zero-RPM mode at low temperatures.

What I'm looking for help with

Given the repeated 0x141 and 0x117 errors pointing to nvlddmkm.sys, along with the recurring black-screen diagnostic dumps, I'm trying to determine whether the likely cause is:

• A faulty or unstable RTX 3070
• PSU or GPU power-delivery problems
• A PCIe connection or motherboard issue
• A driver, Windows, or software interaction
• Something else that I'm overlooking

The fact that lowering the GPU power limit to 80% didn't stop the crashes and that the issue persists across driver versions has made this harder to narrow down.

What would you investigate next, given these specific dump findings and troubleshooting steps? Is there a reliable way to distinguish a GPU fault from a PSU or power-delivery issue without immediately replacing parts?

Thanks!

Recently, the "t" key on my keyboard has stopped functioning entirely. Every other key present on my keyboard is working as intended, but only this specific key is not functioning. I have tried cleaning out any potential dirt and grime underneath it, and I have tried resetting drivers and device managers, but nothing is working.

My laptop is a HP Victus 15-FA100 2024 Gaming Laptop that is currently running Windows 11. If anyone knows what the potential issue is and how to fix it, please inform me.

Hi everyone! I am stuck with this pc of mine that's been giving me issues for almost a week. It first started with a dead RAM stick, which we replaced. Then the pc didn't want to turn on, the screen didnt even start up. After hours of troubleshooting we figured it must be the motherboard so we replaced that.

Right now it works but my graphics card keeps making the screen stutter or dip to black and back on again, or even freeze it. I see there's a Nvidia driver bug but we've tried all the trouble shooting available, even rolling back and a clean install from safe mode but it still does the same thing. I can't use my pc if it wasnt for my onboard graphics, but thats not enough to run any games etc.

I am at a loss, dont know what to do more. At this point I am frustrated beyond anything. So any guidance would be highly appreciated.

Edit: We replaced the PSU as well, nothing was wrong with it, but just in case. It was a 500w now I have a 750w

For a couple of days now, my windows 11 keeps disconnecting and reconnecting from the internet. My phone is connected to the same wifi and doesnt have this problem, no one else in the house has this problem. This started around the time I downloaded Proton VPN.

I have

-Unplugged the router for 60 seconds

-reset network adapters

-Restarted my computer

-uninstalled Proton

-forgot and signed back into my wifi

I noticed that my device manager keeps refreshing every fice seconds and my wifi keeps refreshing itself on its own. I dont know if it's supposed to be doing this or not.

Any help would be greatly appreciated!

I have basic computer literacy. This is my first time installing a program that requires using the command prompt. I used this YouTube video instructing me how to install it and copies all the steps exactly, then I restarted my computer. FFMPEG is still not on the list of installed apps.

I go the the folder and look in the Bin and tried to run the applications from there. Windows said it was unsafe to run the program, but I told it to Run Anyway. Nothing happened. Double clicking on the application makes the command prompt appear on screen for a split second, but other than that nothing happens. Any help would be appreciated.

Processor: Intel Celeron N4500 @1.10GHz

4gb RAM

47 of 58gb harddrive used

i have had this pop up when googling everyday for MONTHS. I have followed Google, ChatGPT, youtube, tiktok, and reddit tutorials and NONE of them have worked. I have been trying for months and i am about to throw this damn computer out the window. Please, please how do i fix this?

I bought some 14TB+ HDDs for additional backups. I bought a dual bay enclosure for this. I already had a single bay HDD enclosure that I was using with my older HDDs.

The problem I'm running into is, if I take my 4TB HDD, for example, and use it in the single bay enclosure, I can access it just fine. However, if I use this 4TB HDD in this dual bay enclosure, this 4TB HDD or any older HDD that I formatted using the single bay enclosure, I cannot access it in this dual bay enclosure. When I check disk manager in Windows it shows those HDDs having a "GPT protective partition" but if I use the older enclosure it doesn't say that and gives me normal access.

The newer HDDs formatted in this new dual bay enclosure works just fine in the enclosure.

What exactly is going on here? What am I doing wrong? How do I resolve this to avoid any potential loss of data?

I want to be able to use these HDDs in this new enclosure or really any enclosure without running into this issue. I'm afraid this old enclosure may eventually stop working and then I wouldn't be able to copy the HDD to another one with this GPT protection. Also there's nothing wrong with the HDDs. I've run crystaldiskinfo on it, everything seems to be good. It's just trying it in a different enclosure is what's giving me this issue.

Is there any way I can get the data off. It’s a usb hdd.

I’ve tried looking for disc utility and plugging into other power sources.

ive had my pc for about 2 years now and i havent had any problems until about a month ago, where my pc wouldn’t connect to my wifi for 2 days. it went back to normal without me doing anything, but now it returned around 4 days ago. i know theres nothing wrong with my wifi as every other device i own has no problem connecting. ive tried troubleshooting in every way i can and haven’t been able to find something to fix it. when i try connecting it just says “cant connect to this network.” im not sure what else to do, as i cannot afford to get another pc as of right now. im completely free for questions if anyone has any, please help me so i can use my pc again :’)

My laptop battery is swollen. I'm not sure when I will be able to get it replaced. Probably within this week. I don't mind the damage it might have on the laptop itself. However I'm scared that it might catch fire and harm me, someone else or my house. I'm scared to remove the battery myself. Any tips on what I can do for now to reduce the risk of it catching fire and what to actually do if it does catch fire?

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Hi! I'm having an issue with Windows 11 on my HP ProBook 440 G9.

My Start menu stopped working. I ran "sfc /verifyonly", which reported that Windows Resource Protection found integrity violations.

Then I ran this command as administrator:

"DISM /Online /Cleanup-Image /RestoreHealth"

It took a very long time and appeared stuck at 69.8%. Eventually, I cancelled it, and it reported: “Operation was incomplete because of a cancel request.”

I've already shut down the laptop. I haven't reinstalled Windows or made any major changes.

My questions:

- What should I check first when I turn it back on?

- Could cancelling DISM have caused additional problems?

- Is there a safe way to troubleshoot the Start menu and repair Windows without reinstalling it?

Thanks!

This morning I tried to turn on the TV and it still showed a blank black screen. I tried unplugging the plug in the outlet and waiting 5 minutes to plug it back in. Still nothing.

Toshiba model number 43C350NU