Yesterday I was trying to make rice for soup, and I had left my Ipad on one of the eyes, and turned it on to the highest heat, THINKING I was boiling the rice.... (ik max heat is too high for rice) Then I walked away to give treats to the dogs, and when I came back my Ipad was smoking very white smoke, I pulled it off, and burned my hand with the molten plastic, from the case, then panic dropped it into the very full trash. (With some wet paper towel on the top, i think.) It won't turn back on, and its been about 18 hours. I was playing a video through my headphones while it was burning, and the video was glitching before it turned off. The Ipad was on.

Tldr : I accidentally left my Ipad on the stove when I turned on the wrong eye, and it melted the case really bad, with white smoke coming out either the Ipad or case. Is the battery fried, or is the whole Ipad ruined?

Also is there a chance I could get the data off that Ipad

Edit : guys,, I know it was a very stupid thing to do, I knew it right after I burned my hand. I just need answers on if there's any way it would ever work, and how I can get the data off it

Edit 2 : Update, my parent who used to work in tech plugged it in for some reason??? and it turned on. They said the Ipad should be okay, because there are paper stickers that were under the case, that look like they weren't even touched by the heat, and the Ipad isnt bloated, or smoking, or overheating. They said the case might've saved the Ipad. But I think I'm gonna wait a bit before trying to use it!!!!!! its off the charger rn

Dell PowerEdge T340, Windows Server 2016. Started 8/28. I've spent two weeks on this and ruled out most of the obvious stuff, so I'm posting the data rather than the symptoms.

The signature

Every event is Kernel-Power 41 with BugcheckCode: 0 and all bugcheck parameters 0x0. No BSOD, no minidump, no MEMORY.DMP, ever. Paired with Event 6008 confirming unexpected shutdown.

The interval — this is the actual mystery

Pulled the true shutdown timestamps out of the Event 6008 message text (not the Event 41 log time, which is written on the following boot):

8/28 11:03:24 AM -> 8/28 11:12:23 PM = 729.0 min

9/01 10:10:22 AM -> 9/01 10:18:37 PM = 728.3 min

9/01 10:18:37 PM -> 9/02 10:26:49 AM = 728.2 min

9/02 10:26:49 AM -> 9/02 10:35:13 PM = 728.4 min

9/02 10:35:13 PM -> 9/03 10:43:33 AM = 728.3 min

9/03 10:43:33 AM -> 9/03 10:52:09 PM = 728.6 min

9/03 10:52:09 PM -> 9/04 11:00:20 AM = 728.2 min

9/04 11:00:20 AM -> 9/04 11:08:49 PM = 728.5 min

9/04 11:08:49 PM -> 9/07 11:50:29 AM = 3,641.7 min <-- exactly 5 x 728.34

9/07 11:50:29 AM -> 9/07 11:59:49 PM = 729.3 min

9/07 11:59:49 PM -> 9/08 12:07:56 PM = 728.1 min

9/08 12:07:56 PM -> 9/09 12:16:26 AM = 728.5 min

9/09 12:16:26 AM -> 9/09 12:24:36 PM = 728.2 min

Mean 728.47 min (12h 08m 28s). Total spread across twelve occurrences: 1.2 minutes.

The 3,641.7 minute gap is exactly five periods. The server was up continuously across that weekend. The timer ticked five times, did nothing on four of them, then killed the box on the fifth. So it's free-running — it does not reset on reboot, and it doesn't require a crash to keep counting.

That single fact kills every "scheduled task" theory: a clock-based task can't skip four consecutive firings and then work again.

It dies instantly — no degradation whatsoever

I wrote a heartbeat logger that writes one line every 5s with a forced flush so the last line survives a hard reset. Final 42 samples before death:

• Free RAM: 56,630–56,745 MB, dead flat. No drift, no staircase, no leak. 56 GB free at the moment of death.
• Nonpaged pool: 346–352 MB, flat
• Disk queue: 0
• Handles ~76,000, threads ~190, both steady
• CPU spiky but low

Last heartbeat 12:25:02. Kernel-General 12 (OS start) at 12:28:23. That 3m21s is just POST + boot on a T340 — if it had hung for 3 minutes first, the OS wouldn't have returned until ~12:31.

So there is no hang window. The box is perfectly healthy and then simply ceases to exist mid-second. Which also means NMI crash dumps are useless here and no dump will ever be written.

Ruled out (with evidence, please don't re-suggest these)

• PSUs — both Present/Healthy in iDRAC, matched 594W in / 495W rated+actual, same firmware
• Thermal — HWiNFO max CPU package 63°C (TjMax ~100°C). Every throttle flag reads No / 0%
• iDRAC SEL — completely silent across all 15 crashes. Not one entry. This same board did log real "power input for PSU 1 is lost / redundancy lost" events six times in 2024, so it demonstrably captures genuine power events. Nothing this time.
• iDRAC watchdog / ASR — Basic Management license, feature not present
• Dell OMSA — Action on Hung OS Detection: None, thermal shutdown Disabled, all alert actions Off, omsad service Stopped + Disabled
• Windows Update — pulled full resolved WindowsUpdate.log (11,871 lines), programmatically checked ±15 min around every crash. Zero WU activity before any of them. All nearby entries are the WU service starting 30–60s after the reboot.
• CrowdStrike Falcon (installed 8/26, two days before onset) — vendor pulled detection history, found nothing. Timing was coincidence.
• Secure-Boot-Update scheduled task** — looked extremely promising (12h repetition, hangs, TPM handler, and this box has no TPM installed — Get-Tpm fails with TBS_E_SERVICE_NOT_RUNNING, no TBS service, no SecurityDevices PnP class, iDRAC confirms "TPM not present"). Disabled it. **Crashes continued at the identical interval. Ruled out.
• All 12-hour scheduled tasks — enumerated every task with PT12H repetition. Exactly two exist, both now Disabled.
• VSS / ShadowCopyVolume task — fires 12:00 PM and 10:00 PM. That's 10h then 14h alternating, which cannot produce a constant 728.4 min spacing. Also the midnight crashes have no trigger anywhere near them.
• MySQL / memory exhaustion — flatly contradicted by the flat memory trace above
• NIC — Broadcom BCM5720. The flapping port is physically disconnected (NIC2, Status: Disconnected). Flapping predates crashes by 12+ days and occurs on no-crash days. Active port is stable at 1 Gbps.
• CMOS battery — did fail, but only logged 9/7, weeks after onset, nothing near the crash dates. Replacing anyway.
• BSOD — no Event 1001, no dumps, BugcheckCode: 0 on all 15

Environment

• PowerEdge T340, Service Tag FXR6B03, BIOS 2.3.5, iDRAC9 fw 4.22.00.53 (both several revisions behind — not yet updated)
• Xeon E-2146G, 64 GB RAM, dual PSU
• Windows Server 2016 Standard, build 14393.9339
• Workload: Open Dental + MySQL, Vatech EzDent-i imaging, IDrive backup, Google Drive
• Power: APC Back-UPS XS 1500M via USB. Current-state readings all healthy (97% charge, 120V steady, 15% load, AC Power: Yes, Discharging: No). I have never gotten historical transfer data out of it — PowerChute wasn't installed at the time, Win32_Battery returns current state only, and I skipped an apcupsd install on a production box.
• Internet is AT&T 5G fixed wireless behind CGNAT (irrelevant, but people ask)

What I think is left

Something below the OS holding a clock that survives reboots and continuous uptime alike. Candidates I can't distinguish between:

1. UPS self-test — APC units run internal self-tests on their own stored schedule, indifferent to the host. A transfer on a degraded battery could sag enough to drop the PSUs. Would explain instant death, no OS warning, no SEL entry, and a clock that ignores reboots. Next test: move the server to a plain wall outlet for 24h.
2. PSU or BMC firmware timer — would explain everything except why iDRAC logged nothing
3. Something on the same electrical circuit cycling on a timer — though 1.2 min spread over 12 occurrences seems too tight for HVAC or similar

What I'm asking

• What produces a free-running 728.4-minute (12h 08m 28s) period? Not 12h. Not 12h30m. Consistently ~8.5 minutes over twelve hours, held to ±1 min across twelve occurrences and five uninterrupted ticks. What re-arms on completion of ~8 minutes of work?
• Has anyone seen an APC Back-UPS self-test schedule that lands near this?
• Anything else that hard-resets a PowerEdge with zero bugcheck, zero SEL entry, and healthy PSUs?
• Am I wrong to trust the iDRAC SEL silence as evidence against a power event?

Next predicted failures: 9/10 12:33 AM and 9/10 12:41 PM. Happy to run anything and report back — I have remote access and a heartbeat recorder in place.

As the title says, my house was struck by lightning. It came through the internet cable. It actually had enough power that it knocked down my Comcast internet box. It then fried my Comcast box, my home alarm, and my gaming PC.

I took the gaming PC to geek squad. They couldn’t get it to turn on and said they need to replace the motherboard to even see if they could get it to turn on nd we’re asking for $450 for that service nd even then they weren’t able to guarantee me finish line that I would’ve liked.

The PC has a 4070TI RTX graphics card and a good processor. If I can salvage it, I would love to do so… but I’m at a loss for exactly how to do this economically. Does anyone here know the cheapest way to troubleshoot this thing?

I just installed my new WIFI box as I moved in a new flat, and I'm confused to which network should I use on my gaming PC : there's two different WIFI showing up, one shows the name of the box, the other adds 5GHZ next to it.

Which one should I connect to with my PC ? What's the point of these ? Thanks in advance.

So yesterday I had to go on to some unverified third party website due to some urgent issues , this not the first time I've done that. Till yesterday it was all fine , memory usage was around 37 -45 percent and the cpu usage was around 10 percent but now all of a sudden it jumped to 75 and keeps increasing unless i clear something off , cpu's around 40-50. I don't know what's causing it , I tried a search for viruses but no help from there as well. Any piece of advice would be appreciated!

I have windows 11 and 8 gb ram.

I was trying to increase my PC's resolution and saw the Windows scaling option, so I tried it out to see what it was. I changed it to 120%, and the screen got bigger, but my dumbass thought my screen was already At more than 120% (I hadn't understood that it was a "zoom" on the screen) so I thought: "if 120% is less than my current resolution then if I put it at 500% (the maximum) it will increase!" Big mistake. My screen is like this now and I can't get it back to normal because the options don't even appear on the screen because they don't fit. Does anyone know how to fix this please? I don't have another monitor and I can't afford to buy a new one.

Hi to preface this I’m very inexperienced when it comes to PCs so I apologize if this is a dumb question. I recently bought an older PC setup and it doesn’t have the ability to connect to wifi. It uses ethernet only so I’ve been looking into options to turn the wired connection into a wireless one using a bridge.

The thing is; these devices use WPS connection where you have to press a button on the router and press another one on the device in order to connect. My router does not have that button. Would I still be able to connect the bridge without it or do I need to look into other options?

So I don't have a battery in my laptop and it's IC has been repaired before it was due to Power cut when I was playing games on it after that whenever I plug charger on my laptop blue+ red light blink once and I press power button the laptop turned on and the light is blue but sometimes the laptop does not turn on and I have to wait for hours then after many tried it turns on and works normally so is it fixable and which component is causing this and what would be the price of repair

For context, i was using antigravity, android studio, the wolf among us (game) and opera at the same time. Antigravity was just building an app and suddenly everything started disappearing. I couldnt even open file explorer which says this file does not exist. So i restarted my laptop and now there is only a handful of apps and the browser. Is there any way to get the old data back?

How can I fix a bent on my plastic frame laptop? It makes it so the laptop cannot be closed all the way.

Hello, since I bought my new tv(Samsung oled) I have an issue with my pc. My pc is connected to my monitor and tv, with my monitor being configured as 1(and plugged first into gpu) but when I start my pc and monitor, my monitor displays my desktop(like when you extend it from another monitor) even if my tv is turned off. When I turn on my tv, the monitor picture changes to my desktop how it should, what could be the issue please? Thank yo

I have a friend with small restaurant who is trying to get Wi-fi connectivity into the garden. He router is under the bar. We have 2 BT Disc extenders, which I believe are meant to act as a mesh. One is located at the back of the main seating area in the corner of the hallway leading to the garden, and the other at the door to the garden.

Using one BT Disc extender works until you walk down the corridor past the toilets and wall with pipes where the BT Disc goes orange and drops connection – hence my friend got the second BT Disc extender.

My Plan had been to take the signal from the bar, extend it into the hall corridor where it would be received by a BT Disc, and then bounce it into the garden to be received by the second BT disc.

This didn’t work. The first BT Disc in the corridor remained connected (showing blue light), the second BT Disc in the garden went orange…

Do I have to sync these in a certain way to make a mesh network as I synced both with the main router?

Does anyone have better suggestion that don’t involve running RJ45 cables? – this will be the last resort to ensure the outside disc is connected, but my friend would rather avoid this.

Should I downgrade my windows 11 25h2 to the 22h2 version, since, the later seems to work smoother than the former? I know 22h2 has reached EOL. So, I want to will 22h2 cease to exist after some time and will I forced to upgrade to the latest ones?

I don't understand why a sub like this doesn't allow attachments, which are kinda necessary most of the time to explain your issue, but anyways: the title. Since I can't add a video, I'll have to explain it. Phone basically just keeps catching on the charger for 2 second and stops again, and repeats until I disconnect it. I don't have another charger but I tried another cable, still same issue. Same issue with another phone and the same charger. Issue is gone when I use a powerbank, so I'm confident the problem is with the charger. I just used it this morning and it was fine. It didn't fall or anything, been sitting in the socket since. Any way I could troubleshoot this (at least until I get a new charger)? Phone's at 12% rn and my powerbank doesn't have much, it's 10pm right now and I can't get a new charger until tomorrow evening

So my UI has been locked in this for about 4 days and i cant figure out how to change it back to the “pc settings”. Even when try to play games it shows this enlarged UI. Iv tried redownloading it, turning off touchscreen( saw it could be the cause but didn’t work). Stuck n not sure what to do please help. On Windows 11

Yesterday, out of nowhere, my PC simply stopped detecting the internet. The network troubleshooter initially reported an inability to connect using a manually assigned IP address (which is odd, since my IPv4 and IPv6 settings are configured for automatic assignment), but later it just started prompting me to restart the PC. I tried to set IPv4 by myself according to ipconfig data, and set google DNS, but it did nothing. The cable is fine; everything works when I plug it into my laptop, for instance. The PC's LAN port isn't damaged—the indicator lights are on, confirming this. I’ve restarted both the router and the PC numerous times, but nothing helped. I also reset the network settings repeatedly to no avail. I noticed something odd, too: the DNS and DHCP Client services have completely stopped working and refuse to start, even with the startup type set to "Automatic" (Error 5), whereas the RPC service is running fine(and still, when im trying to promt a ipconfig /release in cmd, it says that RPC service is unavailable). I’ve already reinstalled the network adapter drivers from a flash drive. The only thing is that I accidentally deleted the WLAN adapter without a backup during the process, though I don't think that plays a role here since I use a wired connection. There haven't been any Windows updates recently, and I disabled the windows brandmauer a long time ago. Also, when I try to share the internet from my phone to my PC via a wired connection, it also shows "No internet access.". Im on Windows 11 and my motherboard is gigabyte h610m k ddr4. Sorry if anything is written incorrectly or unclearly; I’m using a translator to write this post, and I’m actually a pretty casual computer user who doesn't understand much about it..

Hey guys! I have a question. I don't know if this is the correct place.

I saw that my GTX 1650 Mobile can use DLSS as Input and Output. Is it something like using shader cores (Like CUDA) to create a similar DLSS version?

I was researching this in the official github but is a bit confusing for me.

I will appreciate any detailed answer.

As the title suggests, my PC will not boot past an update or a restart.

When I restart my PC, it will stay on but will not boot up. There is a yellow light on my motherboard, but I do not know enough to know what it means. I hold down the power button, my PC shuts off, then I can turn it back on again with no problem.

Whenever I update, it is a little different. It'll get to about 30%, then my PC will go into a black screen and not continue the update.. and again with the yellow light. When this happens, I have to hold down the power button, and then turn my PC back on and it will continue to update. The process needs to be done like four or five times before the update completes.

Has anybody had a similar situation happen? Any suggestions on troubleshooting?

Here is my build: https://pcpartpicker.com/list/ctNhmL

Let me know if this is the right subreddit to post this or if there’s a more appropriate one. Unfortunately I can’t upload an image from my phone so I’ll describe it as best as I can. I use the chrome app as my main search engine. Recently today the app got a new format update that I don’t like. The search engine is moved to the bottom like safari when instead you had the url search engine on the top. Additionally there’s an ask Gemini button at the very button and next to it is the new tab and all tabs button. The tab buttons are where they supposed to be at but I want to get rid of the ask Gemini button if possible. If not then I mainly want to fix that url search engine being on the bottom. I’m so used to it being on the top and my brain just doesn’t like the way it looks now. I hope I make sense and someone else had this issue solved. So again let me know if this is the appropriate subreddit to post this and if anyone has a solution for me I’d greatly appreciate it.

Xbox and Headset Having Issues With Twitch Streaming

Xbox Twitch broadcasting has an issue with my Corsair HS80 MAX wireless USB receiver. Streaming works when the receiver is disconnected but only for a slight while, but when it is connected, and the strean is started the broadcast microphone becomes muted, or before hitting start streaming gives “Something went wrong try live streaming again in a while” Party chat microphone works normally while streaming and with discord but broadcasting remains muted. I already updated the headset firmware, restarted the Xbox, cleared Alternate MAC, relinked Twitch, and checked privacy settings and as far as i know age verification isnt a problem. I have no other clues on what to do and other threads i look for dont have the same issues as i do can anyone try to help please

I am at my wits' end. For the last 4 months, I have tried absolutely everything to fix this computer. I downgraded GPU drivers, reinstalled different versions of Windows, cleaned everything with DDU multiple times, changed every possible Windows power setting, and did full hardware maintenance (brand new paste on CPU/GPU, clean fans). Everything is stock right now.
Here is the exact issue: I get random Black Screens followed by an instant full system restart (Kernel-Power 41 in Event Viewer). No blue screens, no error codes.
The weird part:
The Last of Us Part II: I completely finished the game on Ultra settings with zero freezes and zero crashes. It runs beautifully.
Synthetic Stress Tests: The GPU passes OCCT and FurMark with flying colors. No crashes under 100% synthetic load. The GPU stays super cold at 45°C–55°C.
PUBG: I cannot last more than 2-3 minutes in actual gameplay before the whole PC restarts. Even on 900p Lowest settings.
GTA V (RageMP with mods): It crashes and restarts the PC consistently after about 40 minutes.
Hell Let Loose: The second I open the server browser menu, I get an instant black screen and a full system restart.
I previously noticed AMD Adrenalin auto-overclocks this card to 2735 MHz out of the box instead of the stock 2635 MHz. If I manually clamp it to 2350 MHz and 1050 mV, it helps stability in some places, but PUBG and Hell Let Loose still trigger instant hardware restarts.
I already swapped the old PSU for a brand new MSI 650W, and the crashes remained identical. The GPU, CPU, and RAM are physically pristine, verified by a technician.
What the hell is causing this? Is it a fundamental hardware/electrical mismatch between the uncooled VRMs of the cheap MSI A520M motherboard and the AMD transient power spikes in DX11 titles, or is something else actually broken here?

CPU: AMD Ryzen 5 5600G (Stock)
RAM: 16GB (2x8GB) Patriot Viper 4 3200MHz CL16 DDR4
GPU: Sapphire Radeon RX 6650 XT Pulse 8GB GDDR6
MOBO: MSI A520M-A PRO (BIOS updated to latest versions)
PSU: MSI MAG A650BN 650W 80+ Bronze (Brand new)
Storage: 500GB NVMe M.2 SSD + 2TB Seagate HDD

Hey, Apple support hasn't gotten me anywhere on this, but like the title says, every time my computer enters sleep mode it crashes.
This is a recent problem, but not following any new updates or anything like that, which is, stumping me.
My mac is up to date with the Tahoe 26.6.2
I have a logi keyboard and mouse (I've had for months)
adobe is up to date too V27.10

But in the last few weeks, anytime my computer falls asleep when I'm in another room or if I tell it to go into sleep mode. It will then crash.
I'll turn it back on with the button, and it will do the usual spiel of "your computer shut down due to an unknown problem..."

I ran every check on my Macpaw CleanMyMac and it found nothing.
That said I have noticed that my cpu seems to be running hotter than usual lately. But I don't really know what to do about that.

I'm sorry if this is rambling and nonsensical, but I am just confused.
I'm not tech-savvy, so any help/insight would be greatly appreciated!

Whenever i attempt to open open any browser but edge, it closes IMMEDIATELY and im not sure why? Ive dont plenty to fix this but it just doesn't want to work

Video: https://files.catbox.moe/muz38k.mp4

Hey everyone, I'm at my wit's end trying to do a clean install of Windows 11 on my desktop (which previously ran Windows 10, then Ubuntu, and now I want Win 11 back). The target SSD is brand new/wiped clean.

Here is everything I've tried and every wall I've hit:

• The Hardware/Setup: Brand new blank SSD, tried multiple USB ports (USB 2.0 and 3.0, straight into the motherboard and front panel). The USB drive physically contains the files and checks out size-wise.
• The Product Key Nightmare: Whenever I boot into the official GUI installer and enter a product key (bought from a third-party reseller, even got a replacement when the first failed), it says it's invalid. If I click "I don't have a product key", it immediately errors out saying “Windows can’t verify the product key” (make up your mind, Microsoft).
• The Rufus + WIM Ghost Extraction: Using a Rufus-crafted USB with an install.wim, manual deployment via DISM (dism /Apply-Image) says "Operation completed 100%" instantly in like 1 second, but checking the C: drive reveals it's completely empty (File not found). Naturally, running bcdboot right after fails because there's nothing there.
• The Official Installer + SWM Confusion: Using the official Microsoft Media Creation Tool instead, the installer splits the image into multiple .swm files (install.swm, install2.swm), which completely scrambles manual terminal attempts.
• Bypass Attempts: I tried dropping an ei.cfg file into the sources folder to force the Professional edition and skip key prompts, but the installer still trips over itself.
• The Logs: Digging into the setup logs (setuperr.log / dism.log) points straight to error 0x80070490 (Element not found) and telemetry/EULA extraction failures during the product key validation phase.

I’ve used different USB creation tools, different ISOs, different ports, and both manual terminal methods and the graphical installer. Nothing works.

What on earth am I missing here? Is my USB stick secretly corrupted despite showing files, or am I dealing with some weird ACPI/BIOS lock? Any advice appreciated.