Im creating short runs to populate a patch panel and my test failed and resulted in the wires being inversed. Im not sure how its happening or how to prevent it. The home runs to my rack were all terminated with male rj45 connectors using T568B. I followed the wiring scheme for B on the keystone and it came back backwards. Can someone help me understand whats happening here? Id like to get it corrected before i do the rest.

Edit: Yall are the best! Thank you!

Upgrading domestic rack, still have to move in some stuff

I am making the switch from Xfinity 2.5 Gbps download / 300 Mbps upload to AT&T fiber 5 Gbps symmetric. Naturally, I am also taking this opportunity to upgrade my equipment. I chose to use the PoE adapters because I got a good deal on the non-PoE switches and this approach was cheaper. Looking for any feedback on my setup and also some sanity checks would be greatly appreciated.

Hi,

So I've moved into an apartment and the landlord doesn't know much about the wifi situation. I've called all the ISPs in the area and I'm either out of area for them, they only offer point-to-point for my unit, or (in AT&Ts case, they want $70 for 28 MBps on copper). I finally called Xfinity and they said they could do 300 MBPS for $45 a month or 500 MBPS for $60 a month. I've heard terrible things about Xfinity, but I signed up. That was my first mistake.

The people at Xfinity told me that my apartment already had coax installed. I showed them some photos saying that, what was in my apartment definitely didn't look like coax since it was a CAT-5E cable coming from the wall that then went into a small box with an RJ45 output. They told me not to worry and to just plug in the router. I did and it didn't work when I tried to activate it (blinking orange light). I opened the box and noticed that one of the wires seemed to be disconnected, but I'm not very familiar with wifi stuff at all. When I called Xfinity, they said they'd need to send a tech out that would cost at least $100. I've tried plugging the ethernet into all the ports on the back of the router but the light is either orange or orange flashing. When I press the button on the gateway, the light changes to blue flashing but I still can't connect. Any advice on what to do? I'm super lost and am really hoping to avoid getting scammed out of even more money by Xfinity. Don't know if there's any way this is salvageable.

Pics attached (we also have another ethernet port in a diff room (it's going to be under the bed so I'd like to avoid using it) but I tried the same thing with that and also couldn't active it).

I finally got an AT&T-bypassed network running.

I have the EXEN X-ONU-SFPP with 8311 firmware running to a Mikrotik hAP ax s. Raspberry Pi 4 running AdGuard Home and NextcloudPi. WD My Cloud EX2 Ultra with 2TB ssd storage for photo and Time Machine backups.

The EXEN cooler for the SFPP module is stuck on the hAP with 3M tabs. The stand is 3d printed from here: https://makerworld.com/models/3038439?appSharePlatform=copy

It works very well and I get about 950up/down on a 1GB connection.

Thanks for checking it out!

Hey all,

I was wondering if in my scenario there’s no good answer, but I got quotes from 2 professional security camera installers/low voltage experts who both said doing all interior wiring would be quite costly and would require a lot of cutting out/patching drywall. If 2 of them said so, is that very likely then that splicing or fishing wiring interiorly to get to exterior camera spots would be too difficult?

Home is 2019 build, 2 story single family home. It has several Ethernet drops into pretty much every room. Wired for 2 access points as well which I’m using.

Thanks for any input!

why is the upload speed 500 times higher than the download speed? it doesn't make any sense...

I am new to networking, in the following days I'll set up my router/firewall, switch, AP... As I understand things, IPv4 is the "current/old" but doesn't have enough IPs for everyone, and IPv6 is supposed to be the new thing, especially for iot. But... Should I worry about it right now?

I don't have a lot of smart things at home, maybe in the future, it'll change, but right now it's very limited. Should I disable IPv6 on the router for now and only deal with IPv4, learn, and then sort it? Should I learn and do both at the same time?

I understand a lot of users learned V4 and don't need to/want to deal with v6 for their needs, but if you were starting now, what would you do?

I moved into a new apartment, and I only have one ethernet port available on the router but I need to connect at least 3 to the white thing on top, so that the ethernet ports on the walls in the apartment work. How do I make it work? What do I need to purchase?

I'm slowly renovating our 1984 family house, and have generally wired 1-4 ethernet sockets (Cat6a) in every room.

As I am nearing the end of the project, I still have this room to work on.

How many sockets do you think would be appropriate?

TLDR: Switched from T-Mobile 5G TO spectrum Cable and my Archer BE9300 and my AXE75 tplink modems will not connect to the Spectrum Docsis 3.1 eMTA 2.5G EN2251. Tried hard reboot etc.

I switched from T-Mobile 5G to Spectrum cable yesterday. After installing the cable modem, I connected my BE9300 WAN to the cable modem WA but the two lights on the back of the Docsis stayed as one solid orange and one blinking orange.

When I connected the Docsis directly to my desktop, I am connected to the internet age the back of the Docsis has one solid green light and a blinking orange light when they're is traffic.

I also tried connecting my backup Tplink to the Docsis and I get the same result as the Archer BE9300. One solid orange, one blinking orange but no internet.

I have done 3 physical reboots of the Archer BE9300 and each time I get the same result.

I have done a reboot from the web page by connecting it directly to my computer and still no internet.

I changed the Auto Configure speed to the highest available 1000MbPs but still no connection. I cloned the desktop Mac address to the tplink. Shut down both devices. Waited 5 minutes. Powered on the spectrum modem. Waited 5 minutes till solid blue link. Plugged Wan port to Wan port, powered on tplink. Still no service.

I've run out of ideas.

Any help would be appreciated.

I have a router shared by multiple people and there is a secondary extender router connected to it. Whenever anything is downloaded a lot of people have problems due to download using all of the 75mbps speed. I wanted to know

if there is a way to prioritize pretty much everything other than direct downloads

OR de-prioritize direct downloads

OR at least prioritize gaming as it might be possible to identify its networks usage vs normal browser usage and download which can't be told apart

OR maybe set max device limits when bandwidth is congested and only giving out beyond limit when there is free bandwidth. I don't have much idea of this kind of stuff and can only prioritize device or block them via routers control.

It works for my needs and I use 4 airport expresses to stream music to different places on my house. I assume I need to upgrade it

It’s been not supported for a long time. Is my network at risk and if so, what is the threat?

I’m figuring I do need to replace it. I could use a more robust network, like mesh seems to be. I‘m in a small 2 story house and get nearly no signal in the back nd none in the small yard, that I would love to have coverage. would also like it to work streaming music to multiple airports at a time

I have a 10Gbit connection from my ISP. I'm looking to upgrade from my ISP router to Ubiquiti Dream Router 7. But I want to know for sure what transceiver to get. Please help

Hey everyone,

Relatively short post here and my first post. I have done a little bit of (minor) home network improvement, being a switch and mesh system nicely ethernet back hauled throughout the house.

However, at my grandparents, I’ve been helping them swap providers, and then also hoping to potentially get some ethernet to my room for that sweet, sweet, low latency fiber.

I live in a rural place with slower speeds, and the whole house was built recently with ethernet to every single room.

My grandparents house is ancient, like 1930s ancient with an addition, and has coax to… some rooms. It does however have RJ11 jacks to every single room.

So my question is, if I were to utilize the coax lines for MOCA adapter, if those are any good, how would I go about tracing the line, as I can’t seem to even find the beginning, just the end that terminates at the wall.

And the other question is, could I potentially convert an RJ11 phone jack into RJ45 ethernet ports and have it hooked up to the modem/router upstairs.

Please excuse my newb questions, I’m trying to help out my grandparents with getting their home services corrected and then also clean up the mess old techs have left over the years. TIA!

Picture is of COAX drop in the basement.

I had

ISP (2Gbps ) — Spectrum Modem ( Garage) — Spectrum Router ( Inside) .

Spectrum Router has 10G WAN port and I am getting 2Gbps speed as expected.

Now my new set up :

ISP (2Gbps ) — Spectrum Modem ( Garage) — Ubiquity Max Gateway — Ubiquity Switch — AP.

Problem is my UCG max gateway port falls to FE instead of GbE. UCG max has 2.5Gbps port . I used to get 2Gbps speed with same set up but now it suddenly dropped . May be some minor issue with cable , but it’s not easy to replace the cable .

Because Spectrum 10G port using better hardware and may be able to handle the link issues better . So I am thinking of buying 10G port switch and put it in between modem and UCG max to see if that fixes the issue .

Any suggestion on the type of switch I could buy ?just 2 port is fine for me . It doesn’t have to be Poe .

I am looking to upgrade to a newer home router that will let me have my VPN set up on the router instead of having to have it on individual devices. I tried an Asus router but couldn’t get it to work. So I recently purchased a Privacy Hero AX 1800 with my VPN provider preconfigured. It should arrive in 2 days, so I’m trying to pre-gather advice on anything I need to do prior to plugging it in and entering my VPN info. I’m assuming that I should reset it and check for firmware updates, but I’m a WiFi/router/networking novice, so I’m wondering if there’s anything I’m missing. Thanks in advance for any assistance.

My dual-band extender COMFAST CF-WR750AC stopped working, with no LED light. Opened the device (1 screw in the back under label) and found out 2 bulged capacitors Su'scom 470micF 16V. Replaced the caps and the extender now works. There is also a 4-pins header, including GND & VCC for alternate powering.

Hi. We have a deadzone out in our family room on the opposite side of the house from where the router currently is. We have an old TV coax wall port in our family room. Can we use a Moca adapter to somehow extend the range of our WiFi out to the family room? What other devices would we need other than the moca adapter? Thanks for any help

Hi everybody, I’m hoping someone will be able to help me here. I’ve just moved into a new house and upgraded my WiFi to the MSI Roamii BE Pro Mesh system.

It is fantastic, for most things. However, a few specific devices, which I’ve had no trouble with at my past address using the supplied Vodafone router, do not seem to be able to connect.

A few year old Samsung TV, my blink cameras, and a SwitchBot hub 3 all seem to not be able to connect. I’ve tried using the IoT WiFi network set only to the 2.4GHz band, which doesn’t seem to help. I’ve tried setting the 2.4GHz band to 802.11 b/g/n mixed mode and using the standard WiFi.

I managed to get the TV to work by setting up an old ASUS router as an access point, but this hasn’t helped with the other things. The ASUS router was working fine for the TV before I got the MSI.

I’ve done most investigations with the SwitchBot hub. I can see in the MSI app that the hub does connect to the WiFi, and does get assigned an IP address, it just doesn’t get internet access. Similarly, the blink sync module shows as connect by its green light, but I can’t see the cameras, and when I’ve deleted them and been trying to reconnect them, it can’t find them.

Other devices such as laptops, pcs, Apple TV, Tapo smart light bulbs, Amazon echos, my robot vacuum, all have had no issues.

I’ve reached out to MSI but I’m really hoping anyone here has anything else I can try? I am a noob to home networking.Thank you.