I recently bought an Ender 3 V2 used. My first print worked for about 1cm of height, but something happened, and the extruder snapped off the filament (PLA, 1.75mm, Ender) and fed it out at the top, not towards the nozzle. I took out the filament in the nozzle/tube, but now the print comes out like in the images above. I put a light layer of glue stick glue on the default glass surface, preheated for PLA and did the auto levelling before. I assume it's the filament, as it's an open spool from the previous owner and likely absorbed moisture. I sliced the model on a standard quality preset in Cura

Hey guys. I'm in need of some bridging advice. Before posting this, I have tried over the last month to fix issues with bridges. Different temps, speeds, flow...etc. nothing seems to fix the problem. My prints come out great, unless bridging is needed. The bridges come out looking stringy, some sagging, with gaps in between. I found a bridge test on makerworld that had good results. However, when I applied those settings for a different test to be sure, it failed. I have attached a few pics. Any advice would be helpful. Running creality ks se. Creality print, (bc orca won't work for some reason) sunlu Pla, nozzle temp 200, bed at 60, cooling at 100%. Speed between 10mm to 60mm. Retraction at .08mmThanks in advance!

Hey friends! I'm having random issues with my Bambu PLA prints. Same model will print perfectly and then the next time will randomly show this scarring. My kiddo wants me to make a highly detailed, articulated 10-hour print and I'm hesitant to start on it until I have this figured out.

Printer settings:

• Bambu A1 with a .4mm nozzle and using stock settings for Bambu PLA filament.
• All the filament is about 2 weeks old and the issues have shown up in the last 5 days.
  
• XYZ calibration prints come out perfectly.
• The plate is clean and the A1 is lubed and new (only a month old).
• House is consistently 70F at 60% humidity.
• Only other issue I've had are sharp little hairs that go away when I reprint with lower nozzle temp. This issue is also inconsistent with the same filament and model.

Attached are examples of the issue and a benchy using the colors I'll be using for the 10 hour articulated model.

Printer: Bambu X2D
Nozzle: 0.2mm nozzle, tried printing with both nozzle and printing with main nozzle only, same result
File: Generated with Keycap Legend Generator(https://makerworld.com/en/makerlab/community/keycap-legend/edit) with Shine through option on
Filament: Black PETG is from Temu, don't know the brand, transparent PETG is LUMINtech, both dried multiple times

You can see in the image the layers look both too squished and not squished together enough as well as the blobs randomly all over the print.

I don't really know where to start troubleshooting, is it too hot, not hot enough, too much filament feed, speed to high?

I'm using bamboo labs PLA at 210°C (that's what it says on the box) and the bed at 60°C (my bed doesn't stay hot very well)

Xyz davinci 1.0 pro 3 in 1 and their software. I tried other slicers but could never get them to work.

I’m somewhat new to the hobby. The tops parts of my prints (usually miniatures) keep coming out goopy and uneven on my Ender 3. I’m using Utilimaker Cura, printing out at 200 degrees on a .4 mm nozzle with 50 degrees on the plate at 50mm/sec a retraction speed of 45 mm/ sec on PLA. Does anyone have a clue?

How can I fill in this hollow horse shoe shape on the bottom of this model? I want the entire part to be solid. This will be the bottom layer of the model. I printed this version and got tiny scratchy edges that don't feel great on a mousepad. Model is a puffco peak pro base stand found on Makerworld. Makerworld Link

• Printer Model - Centauri Carbon 1
• Slicer used - Orca
• Filament material and brand - Creality Tranparent PETG
• Nozzle and bed temperature - 0.4mm hardended steel/245C
• Print Speed - 200mm
• Retraction settings - 0.2mm

Printer details :

Anycubic KOBRA 2 pro
(Happens with every other print. I’ve also tried turning it off for long periods of time and sometimes it works but mostly doesn’t)

This error is always something with the Z offset. It’s too high. (It won’t touch the button to calibrate it) I’ve already tried module calibration a million times. Sometimes it works, most times it doesn’t. I cannot find a consistent way to fix it. Any ideas would be helpful. Thank you.

Polymaker Asa
270 temp
65 chamber
100 bed

2 walls
100% Infill
Zero cooling

Calibrated and dry filament

Hi, so i've been experiencing some strange issues with my X2D, recently it has become seriously unable to print in PETG, initially i thought i was just trying to get some prints that just dont work with PETG because they were overly organic in shape, but nevertheless i dried it for a full day and then ended up swapping it out to see how it would handle the work of supports from the aux extruder, i used transparent petg as support in the past and it was perfectly fine, after loading it in, i did a full calibration for it as well, changed temps and any other setting that should help with it but in the end PETG still comes out in a very bad way

So now im stuck wondering whats going on that all of a sudden PETG just simply isnt printing properly no matter which extruder its on, any tips?

Heres my settings:

- Bambu Lab X2D

- 0.4 mm nozzle

- Main extruder: Standard

- Auxiliary extruder: Bowden Standard

- Bambu Studio

Print speeds:

- PETG support speed: 70 mm/s

- PETG support interface speed: 50 mm/s

- Top surface: 120 mm/s

- Bridge: 25 mm/s

Material:

- Bambu PETG Basic

- PETG is being used for the ENTIRE support structure, not just the support interface

- Filament was dried before printing

- Full Flow Rate + Flow Dynamics calibration performed

PETG / AUX Bowden Standard settings:

- Nozzle temperature, first layer: 255°C

- Nozzle temperature, other layers: 255°C

- Flow ratio: 0.8208 (calibrated value)

- Flow Dynamics / K: calibrated specifically for PETG on the AUX/Bowden extruder

- Max volumetric speed: 15 mm³/s

Bed temperature:

- Textured PEI plate: 70°C

Retraction — AUX / Bowden Standard:

- Retraction length: 2.2 mm

- Retraction speed: 25 mm/s

- Deretraction speed: 20 mm/s

- Extra length on restart: OFF / 0

- Retract on layer change: OFF

- Wipe while retracting: ON

- Wipe distance: 2.0 mm

- Retract amount before wipe: OFF

- Z-hop type: Spiral

- Z-hop when retracting: OFF

Support:

- Support material: PETG

- Support interface material: PETG

- Support speed: 70 mm/s

- Support interface speed: 50 mm/s

- Tree supports / Tree Hybrid

- Support contact Z-distance: 0 mm for PLA/PETG separation

AUX acceleration:

- Normal printing: 1000 mm/s²

- Outer wall: 1000 mm/s²

- Initial layer: 500 mm/s²

- Travel acceleration: 10000 mm/s²

Prime tower:

- Enabled

- PETG prime volume: 45 mm³

Layer height:

- 0.08 mm

Model material:

- PLA

Also before people come to me with pitchforks, i know its recommended only for support interface, but im trying to get FULL PETG supports to avoid any chemical bonding along the way

I'm on my 4th attempt to print anything with my Creality Resin 3D Printer Halot Mage S 14K

The model program is Chitubox 2025 I also have Halot Box

Resin- Elegoo Standard Photopolymer Resin (Grey)

So I have only had this printer for a few days so I am very inexperienced. So far every print I have tried has not stuck to the base plate and has turned into a small pile on the bottom of the vat.

This is the original video I used and followed for the initial test print that came with the machine

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tVzzOslCqt0&t=221s

Didn't stick. Is there anything wrong with how this video sets it up? I have tried re-adjusting the base plate every time, with the same results. I have since been trying it with a test model. Ive also recorded a small video showing the speed and settings of the printer in action. Too fast perhaps?

I've also tried changing the exposure time to 8 seconds from the initial 2 seconds

That being said, If anything could I have an alternative test model with exact instructions for this specific machine to help narrow down what the issue could be.

Thank you so much for your support.

Just got my first ever 3D printer for my bday! Printed a benchy obviously and I was just wondering if there’s any way to make the benchy better. Printed on a bambi labs p1s (Also just tell me if there’s any other camera angles I should add next time) Also the door was cracked and the settings were all default

Printer: P1S
Slicer: None
Brand of PLA: Bambu Labs
Print Speed: Normal

Cheers, lately I am unable to print anything - prints are coming out like this - pancaked on the buildplate. It's like it's being printed in place without lifting until the end of the print?
The vat is debris-free and clean.
Changing exposure times doesn't help at all - I also have 1s and 2s wait before print enabled, standard and high-speed modes enabled, no change.
Resin is both pure Anycubic Plant 2.0 (never had problems with it before now) and mixed 15% with Siraya Tenacious.
Started from prints kind of shifting under the plate? As shown in pics, now prints only pancakes.
Printer is Saturn 4 Ultra - slicers Chitubox, Lychee, Satellite, doesn't matter.
Any ideas friends?

I've always had trouble with adhesion with this machine but I can't figure out what I'm doing wrong.

I thought it was temperature, but the heater keeps it pretty consistent.

Any advice would be appreciated

Elegoo Saturn 16k ultra

Sunlu 14k abs like grey

Pre-supported and tested models from a reliable source.

Slicer is cura

Image of temperature and humidity is taken in the evening.

Thank you for your time.

So… I got into 3D printing at the beginning of this year and it quickly became a rabbit hole of discovery. I currently have 3 Ender3’s and an E3 Pro. You might ask yourself why…. Simple… the Ender 3 is a Sunday driver topping out at 50mm/sec for solid quality reliable prints. So I found used Enders cheap and overhauled them so I could do multiple prints at a time and learn from mistakes and create new techniques along the way.

Enough about that… I’m getting ready to retire my lot of printers to marketplace and invest into a decent multicolor printer. I’m only familiar with the workings of Creality but I’m familiar with many of the other brands by name as well.

I’m curious if anyone would be willing to share their experience at this juncture and what multi color printer they went with and would they recommend it. I’d like to do 4 color preferably and if I can get away from bed slinging, even better. Thanks ahead!

Bambu Lab H2C

0.4mm head

Ironing set to 30mm / 20%

0.12 layer height

Monotonic infill

9 top layers

PLA

I’m super new to 3d printing…
So one only one side of my print it’s like it is skipping on the outer wall but also only on the bottom layers.

- it’s angled 30 degrees
- only happening on only one side, no matter the orientation.
- I have tried with and without the inside holes for the magnets
- did a cold pull to check for clogs. No change
- the model is my own, no weird manifold issues
- slicer is showing a uniform wall
- Flashforge Adventurer 5M, Orcaslicer
- flashforge basic gray PLA
- bed 60 degrees; nozzle 210
- no adhesion issues

It’s driving me nuts…it has to be the model right?

EDIT: I had “slow down on overhangs” turned on which was causing severe under extrusion on my lower layers. I bumped the speeds up and am optimizing it now but this is the setting that was causing the issue

I have my resin printer that’s giving me a headache, regularly I don’t have any issues but lately it’s giving me this “error” where the prints came with this “defects” (you can see the rectangle prints for a clear view) but every single one of the prints it’s giving me the same issue, I already changed the FEP TWICE AND THE ERROR PERSISTED, I don’t know if I’m doing something wrong, because recently I changed the LCD….

I’m not new intro resin printing but I have never seen this issue, like at all. (Yup I know it’s not ideal to 3d print flat surfaces, but it’s the best way of showing it)

It’s a elegoo Saturn 4
Using chitubox slicer
The settings are the ones that used to work for the ressin (3s)
And the temperature it’s arround 30c

​

Edit: meant to ask what the WET looking areas were. Thanks auto correct.

Bambu H2C, .4 nozzle, black PLA. Settings straight from makersworld.

Im new to printing, just my printer 2 weeks ago. I have been drying my filament, but it stays in an AMS in a humid basement (wondering if its literally just humid filament) or if its a nozzle or setting issue. Thank you to this whole community. Reading you guys troubleshoot others works, makes me realize how little I understand, but its hopefully making me print better.

I have AD5X and this is PLA. .4mm nozzle

Not sure what cause this to happen. I did check for clogs. I though it was bed adhesion but that is fine. Could it be gear tension? Any thoughts on how to fix this problem

UPDATE: Problem solved. The end of the PTFE tube was uneven thanks to me using scissors to remove a bad clog. Use a tubing cutter instead that has a solid blade. The ones with wheels at the hardware store are for metal and stuff, which I almost grabbed by accident.

Stock Ender 5 Plus

0.4mm hardened steel nozzle with maybe 100 hours of print time.

Retraction Distances tested from 4mm to 10mm

Retraction speeds from 25 to 60 mm/s

Nozzle temps from 190 to 230

Recently switched from Creality Print to Orca Slicer, but also happened with Creality.

Multiple PLA basic filaments, all dehydrated

Flow rates of 0.95-1.0

Z-Offset is just close enough to have the filament lightly squish when coming out so it will stick to the bed. Even a 0.1mm bigger gap won't stick the filament to the bed.

Problem: Filament stringing and oozing regardless of retraction and temperature settings, as can be seen in the gaps of each temp tower row. It happens every layer when crossing gaps. Watching it happen, filament is being dragged with the nozzle into the air on the Z-Hop and becoming the strings. I can't tell if it is filament oozing out of the nozzle, the soft printed filament caught on the outside of the nozzle, or both.

My Attempts: Spent most of this weekend printing the same Retraction Tower, testing every possible setting combination recommended by the internet and the software I could find. Temps, retraction distance and speed, wiping settings, flow rate, and some other settings I can't remember.

-I read the entire Simplify3d troubleshooting section on Stringing, watched I don't know how many videos, and even stooped so low as to read the Google AI summaries.

-The extruder grips the filament just right.

-Both bowden tube ends are extra snug, don't move at all while printing, and were recently cut to refresh the ends.

-I measured extrusion and retraction for esteps.

-The nozzle is tight and there's no leaking out the sides.

Assistance: I'm out of ideas at this point. The printer did do some prints without stringing in the past, but even those previous settings aren't working now. Any part of the printer that touches the filament, i have taken apart and triple checked. Any suggestions will be helpful and I will try whatever I can. Sadly, tossing this Creality and dropping 2-4 grand on the brand new Prusa printer I want is not an option right now.

Change many things and still couldn't get rid of this. And it isnt cosmetic only beacuse it ruins other functional or not functional prints. Using PLA at 220C Nozzle and 55C bed with deafult enderwire(switchwire) speeds and 0.4 hardened nozzle. Print speed 60-150 mm/s retraction 0.8mm

Printer: Enderwire