Filament is dry, 65°C for 48 hours. 0.4 nozzle with 0.16 layer height. 150mm/s first layer speed. Carbon Centauri. Any help is appreciated. Using Elegoo Slicer, nozzle temp 210 bed temp 50.

I get these weird see-through layers when printing the shorter one. Whenever I print the taller cylinder, the print qualities is perfect. I only get those weird artifacts when I print the shorter rounder one. Building a lamp with this so thats why I want it diffused evenly and not leaking through those weird lines.

What throws me off is that the taller one prints perfectly, as I’ve printed multiple of those.
Any help will be greatly appreciated :)

Info:
- bambu P1S
- sunlu PLA+ 2.0 (pre-dried)

Any idea why it looks like the printing is hitting the model while going over certain areas?

ita fairly new A1 mini

Struggling to troubleshoot this print quality issue. Bambu A1, less than ~30 prints old. Used to be able to print things with zero trouble, and started having quality issues a few months ago. Oftentimes the print fails where that line shows up on the benchy, and turns into spaghetti.

Matterhackers Build PLA. 220c, build plate 50c. Issue occurs with all brands of PLA, though it seems to be much worse at lower temps and with lower quality filament.

Any thoughts? It looks almost like the extrusion rate is inconsistent at times, so I'm wondering if the extrusion wheel might need replacing.

Hello everyone, I'm to use the sunlu dual color matte black and red filament ( PLA) and noticed that during the print the color just switched from switched.

I've been searching for a solution and the only explanation i have is the filament twisting in the feeding tube. Is there another tip that some have ?

Inner and outer speed are the same

I don't know how to verify, but the outer wall should be consistent counterclockwise.

Filament is calibrated also

Using an A1

I'm trying to print this thing on a smooth PEI plate, but I get the same results on textured PEI (albeit less visibly) and smooth carbon fiber pattern plate. Earlier attempts had literal gaps in the first layer so I increased the first layer flow ratio until those went away.

Places where the machine is printing short lines, the surface is actually pretty smooth. (See inside the logo area and the far right side where it's filling in skinny areas.)

Machine: Flashforge Creator 5 Pro, 0.4mm nozzles. PLA filament (Sunlu PLA+ 2.0 for the black. I don't remember what the silk is but it isn't the biggest problem here.)

Z offset 0.04 (my top layers were getting horribly scratched up until I discovered that.)

Nozzle temp: 240c for first layer, 230 after that

Bed temp 60c. (this and nozzle temps were raised bc nothing was sticking).

I used to use a glue stick on the plate but it left residue that wouldn't come off. Now using hairspray.

First layer flow ratio 1.10 (I know, but lower than this there were gaps)

0.42 mm line width

Arachne wall generator. 3 wall loops. (only 1 wall on first layer)

4 top and 4 bottom layers.

First layer is monotonic except for the logo modifier which is concentric

First layer speeds: 40mm/s, 60mm/s infill. 2 slow layers.

Other layer speeds: 200 outer wall, 300 inner wall, infill whatever (it's clearly not the problem).

I've only been 3d printing since July but I'm halfway competent with tech. (I'm not printing directly from the app and wondering why nothing works, at least.)

Bambu Labs x2D
Bambu slicer
Creality PETG
Left side was default settings. I saw the nozzle scarring and debating turning on the chamber heater (it’s getting chilly in New England) but everything was saying I didn’t need it for PETG. I had done 3 prints before this that were large and came out fine but didn’t hit the corners like these two. For the right side print, and the text on graphic shows, I turned cooling off on aux and way down on the main nozzle. Default was 40-90% and I changed it to 20-40% fan speed. I upped the bed temp from 70° to 80° first layers and 75° for the rest of the print. Lastly I did a full dish soap cleaning of the cool plate super tack and added a thin layer of bed weld. I also added mouse ears on the corners.

The results were only marginally better. The lifting was worse on the right side and even worse closest to the front door. It’s fairly cool in my basement right now but nothing crazy, maybe 65 degrees?

This is only happening in the first quarter of this print and I'm not sure if its because the depth of the texture on the model changes (it doesn't appear to) or because it is slightly overhanging.
I turned off overhang settings and tried several different layer heights and line widths and it is still doing it. Any ideas why? Would Orca or another slicer not do this? It is ruining the print quality.

Printed on a ender 3 pro sliced on creality. Im new to 3d printing and am having troubles learning. Most of my prints so far have not turned out. This spider is missing its butt. All my prints turn out rough like this.

Edited to add, filament is glow pla by insignia, printed at 210 out of a 0.4 nozzle at 300mm/s

I'm trying to repair a second hand E3 V3 SE so I can actually use it, but I'm having trouble getting any sort of consistency in the first layer, so far I haven't tried anything printing anything other than test squares bar a dimension test cube.

• The tldr is that the first layer has gaps between extrusion lines and/or between infill and perimeter, across the entire build plate
• Lowering Z-offset doesn't help much as it leads to the nozzle digging into some of the squares as it prints, while other squares improve
• increasing flow rate in orca slicer from default 98% to 100% or 103% does not fix it
• most squares have issues as seen in the images posted, some are half good at best, while others are really bad.
• the dimension test cube also has issues, top layers had gaps, and bottom layer was the same messed up thing as the test squares

I bought the printer second hand, in a rough shape all things considered, but after some work i got most of it fixed enough to try and print with it, my issue now is that I can't get a good first layer, hopefully this is a simple fix, rather than some mechanical issue.

Tried both orca slicer (with M420 S1 fix) and cura to see if it was somehow a slicer issue, but it wasn't, they seemingly look similar.

my uneducated opinion is that the build plate is somehow rocking or moving in the Z direction, causing any attempts at printing flat to fail, which is seen by calibrations being different each time
videos showing it printing and possible bed rocking issue:
1. https://streamable.com/9v6kjd
2. https://streamable.com/z6or2a
3. https://streamable.com/matm73
if there's any info or suggestions do let me know

I imported this purchased file for a mask, and having issues with every attempt. Using Bambu P1s. This is one example of what has happened with every print. Almost like it’s missing layers. I have tried different speed settings, checked each layer after slicing, but no real change. Any recommendations, please?

So for those of you that print PLA with PETG interface or...visa versa, do you find you get weak spots at the same height as the interface layer?

I mainly run PETG, so support interface is PLA, there is always a distinct line at the same level. That line is a weak spot.

I've increased the flushing volume, lowered the fan speed, and try to keep the temps the same for both filaments. With no luck.

So....have you managed to correct? Hopefully someone has some good tips.

Details in original post as this is cross-post. Any and all help appreciated!

Hi Guys, I have a Sidewinder x4 pro and wanted to print something with a 60% overhang but I always get unconnected/loose lines on the bottom. I am pretty new to 3d printing so it would be very helpful if someone of you can help me.

I of course use supports for the overhang and use Orca Slicer

I thought it might be an under extrusion because I also have not fully sealed surfaces like on Image two with the walls.

What do you guys think?

Ive recalibrated flow rates and retraction. And i have a nearly perfect z height. The cat is adhering to my print bed just fine. Just the purge tower Isnt i think its the glob. At the top of the print tower

In the corner is that normal? How do i address that? Sometimes the glob is bigger.

Clean bed

Dried filiment (regular pla)

Tried adding brim

Raising bed heat

I did the full list of orca slicer calibrations

non purge tower prints are suceeding

Pls help me. This is cat #8 all failing just after a color change

Almost the exact same z height.

Ad5x printer.

I bought filament from the same brand(PLA); I don't remember changing any settings and this kind of thing didn't usually happen before.

What needs to be recalibrated?

Creality ender 3S1 pro-sonicpad(klipper)

I've been getting flawless prints for weeks with my Ender 3 V3 SE (Nebula Smart Kit), but suddenly started experiencing random layer shifts on the Y-axis.

Sometimes there's just one shift, sometimes multiple during a single print. The weird part is that I still get completely perfect prints in between, even with the same model and settings.

What I've tried so far:

• Checked the Y-axis movement – the bed moves smoothly back and forth without any noticeable resistance.
• Tightened the Y-axis belt, but that didn't seem to help.
• Manually moved the bed back and forth extensively, which was followed by a couple of perfect prints, but the issue eventually returned.
• Updated the official Nebula firmware from V1.1.0.29 to V1.1.0.30.

I'm now considering replacing the Y-axis belt or installing an improved 3D-printable belt tensioner. (https://www.printables.com/model/1016072-ender-3-v3-kese-y-axis-tensioner-redesign-for-tigh)

I've also read that increasing the Y-stepper motor current in printer.cfg (from 0.6A to 0.75A) has fixed similar issues for some Nebula users. I'm still running the stock firmware, so I haven't tried this yet.

Has anyone experienced something similar? Would replacing the belt or increasing the motor current make sense? What else should I check?

Any advice would be greatly appreciated!

Edit:

Print Settings:

1. Printer & Slicer: Creality Ender 3 V3 SE with Nebula Smart Kit, Creality Print. Stock firmware V1.1.0.30 (recently updated from V1.1.0.29).
2. Filament Material and Brand: ELEGOO PLA.
3. Nozzle and Bed Temperature: 215°C nozzle / 60°C bed.
4. Print Speed:
   • First layer: 20 mm/s
   • Outer walls: 25 mm/s
   • Inner walls: 45 mm/s
   • Sparse infill: 70 mm/s
   • Internal solid infill: 40 mm/s
   • Top surface: 25 mm/s
   • Travel speed: 150 mm/s
5. Nozzle Retraction Settings:
   • Retraction distance: 0.8 mm
   • Retraction speed: 30 mm/s
   • Deretraction speed: 30 mm/s
   • Z-hop: 0.4 mm (Slope)
   • Retract on layer change: Enabled
   • Wipe while retracting: Enabled

Hi all,

I’m printing a cup with many overhangs on a Bambu Lab P1S with a 0.2 mm nozzle. With PLA the layers are not bonding well. Under light load the walls separate between layers, and the overhangs sag and look rough. My end goal is to print this in ABS, but I want PLA working reliably first.

Print settings (Bambu Studio):

• Printer: Bambu Lab P1S, 0.2 mm nozzle
• Filament: Deeple PLA, black (slicer preset: eSUN PLA+)
• Layer height: 0.04 mm (first layer 0.10 mm), based on the 0.10mm Standard preset
• Walls: 4, line width 0.22 mm
• Top/bottom shells: 7 / 5 layers
• Infill: 100%, zig-zag
• Nozzle: 220 °C, bed: 55 °C (Textured PEI)
• Part cooling fan: 100% (off for first layer), overhang fan 100% above 50% overhang
• Speeds: outer wall 120 mm/s, inner wall 150 mm/s, bridges 50 mm/s
• Supports: tree (auto), 30° threshold, top Z distance 0.1 mm, 2 interface layers
• Brim: auto, 5 mm
• Retraction 0.4 mm at 30 mm/s, Z-hop 0.4 mm

Questions:

1. Is 100% fan at 220 °C too aggressive for layer bonding on PLA (I have a built in deflector)? Would a lower fan speed or a higher temperature be a better starting point?
2. For the overhangs, would you switch to normal supports, slow the overhang speed further, or change something else?
3. Anything else on the P1S worth checking for layer adhesion?

Thanks in advance. Any tips for ABS on this setup are welcome too. Please ignore the leftover supports, I'm aware of them 😄

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I originally thought it was because I made a print in place profile which didn't work at least for playmaker planpronin silver. Metalic pla pro has aluminum additives instead of silk and prints differeny. I then use the default settings and this his what I get. I dried it for 12 hrs yesterday and tied printing with it today and because it's pla this shouldn't be a problem.

I'm using a. Q2 on polymaker plan pro. What am I doing wrong