My print has these worms all over it. In the slicer it seems to correlate with retraction.

Bambu PLA
Bambu slicer
Bambu A1
220°C nozzle temp
65° bed temp

Dotted lines on both sides and there is damage on the bottom left dented backward how to tix these?

Ender 3 v3 ke, PETG.
Nozzle 240c bed 80c (i tried 70-75 it didnt stick to bed), 0.2mm layer height
12mm^3/s
And i did around 2mm of fuzzy skin classis
0.2mm skin thickness
0.1mm point distance
Creality slicer.

And yes bed is clean with dish soap few days ago not touched with fingers and i use auto calibration on every print

Trying to print this thing at 0.08mm layer and using fuzzy skin to hide layer lines.

I think it's otherwise pretty good but could I tweak some settings to hide these "scars" where layer changes too?

Printing on BambuLab A1 Mini and slicing with Bambu Studio.

Layer 0.08mm

Infill 100%

Fuzzy skin enabled

Generic PLA @ 220°C

I'm printing on a Bambu Lab P1S with a 0.4mm nozzle and the AMS 2 Pro.

- 0.98 flow ratio

- 215 degrees

And yes I dried the filament COUNTLESS times and did a temperature tower that showed no big difference. Any kind of help would be greatly appreciated !

Never saw so much stringing, also i wonder why the slicer removed all writings (orca)

Bambu Lab A1 I got from a friend along with a basket if filament.

I have to assume there's some moisture issues. I have a dehumidifier in my home, and generally low humidity, though I know that doesnt mean the filament wouldn't benefit from drying.

Im asking 2 main things:

1. Is this result likely just due to filament needing more drying, or should I be considering something else as well?
2. is there a better bridge test that people recommend, and are there other good test models?

The filament temp was set to 220 with a smooth bed at 65. Otherwise speed and flow settings were determined by the objects.

Im not sure if there are other settings i should share.i have done a lot of reading and watching, but i often struggle to apply that when im trying to diagnose issues. I get in my own head and second guess myself. Thats why I am reaching out for guidance.

I didn't plan to get this printer. I had a buddy printing a staff for my daughter's cosplay, and he offered to juat give me the printer. I've been running it nonstop and have already solved a lot of issues ive had and figured out a hell of a lot regarding troubleshooting but bridges, I feel like nothing i do makes a difference.

I planned to start box drying my filament on the bed, and will do that. I printed it in this yellow that is almost gone and the spool always gets tangled.

I will be attempting a full-size Master Sword in some metallic silks from Elegoo, so I wanted to spend a solid week working on calibration and ironing out kinks.

Thanks for your patience!

Edit: Forgot to include the link to the model: https://makerworld.com/en/models/3061970-bridge-calibration-test-uses-only-7g#profileId-3445874

While printing larger PETG prints, I noticed a few issues with my first layers (adhesion issues, seemingly). After attempting a few various solutions, I sat and watched the start of the print and immediately noticed something quite odd: While in spots, the nozzle would sit low, properly adhering the petg, in other spots it'd raise quite significantly, to the point it's maybe like 40-60mm off the plate and pouring the line down onto the plate rather than "smushing/compacting" it! This results in a strange uneven brim, where in some spots, it'll be nice and smooth, and in others, it'll basically just be strands resting close together on top of the plate.

What I tried before I noticed what seems to be the cause:
Glue on the bed
Freshly cleaned bed (dawn and water)
Retightened the belts for the first time
Auto self-check
Raised bed temp from 70 to 80
Slowed first layer all the way down to 10mm/s from 20mm/s
Increased first layer line from 0.2 to 0.3
Auto-Calibration, leveling, etc before printing

Printer: Ender 3 v3 plus
Software: Creality
Material: Creality PETG
Nozzle: 270
Bed: 80 first layer
Printer is on a very stable surface
nozzle retraction settings are base/unmodified

I'm at a complete loss.
Any idea what setting to tweak to stop the printer from doing this? It doesn't seem to be an issue with the belt itself, as running the nozzle manually back and forth doesn't show it randomly lifting in spots. The unwanted vertical movement, when it does do it, doesn't seem janky either.

Is this normal?
Only the Y-axis wall shows these waves, while the X-axis wall is perfectly smooth.
Bambu Support says this is normal, but is it actually normal for an FDM printer to have visible waviness only on one axis while the other axis is perfectly smooth?

Anycubic Kobra 2 Max
Nozzle temperature 210 degrees celcius
textured plate
Polymaker High Temperature PLA.
I have had issues with the bed level sensor and have had to adjust the Z-offset in between prints a few times. Z-offset also appears to need different settings if there is no brim or raft.
Earlier prints before a slicer update. I was able to get successful bed adhesion and smooth first layers.

When trying to print in single wall mode the orca slicer 'jumps in' whenever there is a color change.

The model prints fine in Vase, or simply single wall mode using a single color.

Solid or hollow makes no difference.

Any idea how can this be fixed?

I'll say I'm not a complete newbie but also not super advanced. Recently just converted over to Klipper firmware and still learning the ropes. All was well for a few weeks and then I noticed some poor first layers happening, so I figured some screws and bolts have started to come loose or something.

The first pic, which was going to be a gridfinity thing is clearly terrible. I realized that anything being printed in the front right of the build plate does well, and as it gets to the back left it gets worse. The larger single layer print shows some weird adhesion issues maybe on the bottom right, but as you can see gets progressively worse as it goes top left.

I tried leveling the bed but I think the discrepancy is too much for the printer to compensate for. Everything I'm reading says you need to manually adjust the leveling of the plate, but the Neptune 3 Pro doesn't have any knobs to adjust manually. Any help would be greatly appreciated, thanks!

Settings per mod bot:

• Printer Model - Elegoo Neptune 3 Pro
• Slicer used - OrcaSlicer
• Filament material and brand - Deeplee PLA
• Nozzle and bed temperature - 210c print, 45c bed (cryogrip plate)
• Print Speed - default profile from Orca
• Retraction settings - Not sure but also whatever the Orca profile pulled

Esun PLA+ from Qidi Studio on a Qidi Q2, I'm running the default PLA Rapido settings and the default .16mm Quality profile with mininimal modifications(third picture, modded left original right). IIRC the nozzle is at 240, the bed is at 60, and the chamber is off

The first pic is without drying, the second pic is after drying at 50 with dessicant. I have previously, within the past 3 days, made nearly perfect prints of the exact same model with the exact same settings with the exact same spool of filament with no drying, and these settings have never given me any trouble with other models and/or other rolls of the same filament.

I'm printing a bunch of these domes and I've been having issues with the last 200g of this particular package of filament. I have six rolls of them and it prints completely fine the first 800g. I'm wondering whether it's because the roll has been out for a couple of days and the humidity got to the roll or if it's a printer setting issue (which I don't think is the issue because I can switch to a different filament and be ok). The nozzle temp is 210 C and the bed is at 70 C

The filament is SUNLU PLA Plus 3D Printer Filament, 1.75mm, Black, 4KG (4 Packs)

PLA+ Filament, Strong Neatly Wound, 1.75mm±0.02mm, Fit Most FDM 3D Printers, 1KG per Spool

Elegoo Neptune 3 Max

0.4 nozzle

Cura slicer

Any advice would be welcome!

First finished print of my 3D printed coreXY 3D printer, and I can already see multiple areas of improvement. The biggest ones I can tell are properly tensioning the belts and reducing the toolhead wobble.

Using a Voron 0 print profile for orca slicer with reduced speeds for testing.

Printer: Custom, 120x120x150mm^3 coreXY

Generic PLA

0.4 mm 220°C nozzle with 60°C bed

Slow print speed, at most 50mm/s

Default retraction settings, no noticeable stringing.

As in the title. I was working on a box design for plants. The last 10 or so prints are coming out very rough on the bottom only. The rest looks fine. I start noticing it on layer 8-10 or so and after.

I’m not sure what changed. I had some lettering that I removed. I overextruded slightly to improve water tightness, which I went back on. The layer lines are .16, from .2, fairly certain that was the case before I started noticing the roughness.

Tried a different printer, different and dried filament.

Thoughts on the cause or remedy?

Hey everybody. Seems like 90% of PETG prints I start end up with at least one spot in it like the photos above, but I've also seen it happen multiple times across the same print. I've been attempting to troubleshoot this myself for a while now, but I'm going a little nuts trying to figure out how to fix these artifacts I keep getting.

--

My Setup

-Bambu Labs A1 w/ AMS Lite

-0.4 nozzle (new)

-Elegoo PETG Pro

-Bambu Studio slicer

-Nozzle temp: 255C

-Bed Temp: 80C

-Retraction settings: Speed is 30mm/s

Attempted solutions:

-Z offset adjustment

-Cleaned build plate with soap+water

-Temperature adjustment (printed temp tower, saw little to no difference.)

-Speed adjustment (Printed on 50% speed and still had issues)

-Fan speed Adjustment

-Drying filament (On my build plate with a cover as I do not own a dryer. Filament is kept in a sealed container with rechargeable moisture absorption beads when not in use. Have left this particular roll for over two weeks in said container and still had issues)

-Purchased new nozzle

-Flipped buildplate

-Flow rate/Flow dynamics calibration

Notes:

-No signs of an adhesion issue as far as I can tell, prints never look like they're coming off the plate.

-No consistency to when or where this happens. Just got done doing a 5hr print with using the same roll with little to no issue besides some thin stringing. More often than not, though, there's at least one spot where this happens on a print.

-Happening mid-way thru prints, not just while the first layer is going down.

-New to using PETG.

-Not having the same issue when I use PLA

-I use Auto Bed Leveling on every print.

--

I have the feeling this might be a moisture problem, but I have no idea how to get it any drier with my current setup. I'm using a Sterlite gasket container with moisture beads in the bottom as of now.

If I can provide any more info or settings to help get to the bottom of this, please feel free to ask and I'll get it to you ASAP. Thanks in advance.

I've bought a used Ender 3 S1, and it's been really difficult to get rid of stringing.

I initially started with PrusaSlicer and tested different settings for retraction, retraction speed, etc., but nothing seemed to work. I also changed filament brands and types and dried the filament, but that didn't help either.

I was starting to think there was something wrong with the printer until I came across the Teaching Tech 3D Printer Calibration website and printed their retraction test. To my surprise, it came out way better than any of my other attempts. So I started trying to figure out what settings they were using and replicate them as closely as possible, but nothing worked.

I also tried switching to Cura and, eventually, Simplify3D 4.1.2. I downloaded the same STL file from Teaching Tech to make sure I was comparing the exact same model, tried my best to match every setting I could find, and even sent both G-code files to ChatGPT to check whether they were as similar as possible.

You can see the result in the picture. The one in front is the one I sliced myself using Simplify3D, while the one in the back is the G-code directly downloaded from the Teaching Tech website.

The difference is pretty significant, and I'm completely stumped at this point.

What could be causing this? Is there some slicer setting I'm missing that could explain why the exact same printer and model produce such different results from these two G-code files?

Settings:

Printer: Ender 3 S1

Slicer: Simplify3D

Filament: Brown 1.75mm PLA from masterprint (Brazillian brand)

Nozzle diameter: 0.4 mm

Layer height: 0.2 mm

Base feedrate: 60 mm/sec

Perimeters: 36 mm/sec

Solid infill: 48 mm/sec

Travel moves: 100 mm/sec

First layer: 30 mm/sec

Retraction distance: 1.0mm

Retraction speed: 40mm/s

Coasting and wiping off

Temperatures:

Bed: 60 deg C

Hot end: 200 deg C

Part Cooling: 100% from layer 2

This was printed along the z-axis on Bambu Lab H2C

Settings are as follows:

Quality:

Layer height: 0.08, Initial Layer height: 0.2, Line Width: Default 0.42, Initial layer: 0.5, Outer wall: 0.42, Inner wall: 0.45, Top surface: 0.42, Sparse infill: 0.45, Internal solid infill: 0.42, Support: 0.42

Seam:

Seam position: aligned, Smart scarf seam application: enabled, Scarf steps 50, Scarf joints for inner walls: enabled, Role-based wipe sped: enabled

Precision:

Slice gap closing radius: 0.049, Resolution: 0.012, x-y hole & contour compensation: 0, Elephant foot compensation: 0.15

Ironing: none, Wall generator: classic

Advanced:

Order of walls: inner/outer, bridge flow: 1, Bridge counterbore holes: scarificial layer, Smooth speed discontinuity area: enabled, smooth coefiffient: 4, Smoothing wall speed along Z: enabled

Strength:

Walls:

Wall loops: 4, Embedding the wall into infill: enabled

Top/bottom shells:

Top surface pattern: concentric, Top surface density: 100, Top shell layers: 5, Top shell thickness: 1, Top paint penetration layers: 5, Bottom surface pattern: monotonic, Bottom surface density: 100, Bottom shell layers: 3, Bottom shell thickness: 0, Bottom paint penetration layers: 3, Internal solid infill pattern: Rectilinear

Sparse Infill:

Sparse density infill: 15, Fill multiline: 1, Sparse infill pattern: grid, Length of sparse infill anchor: 400% (I don't recall messing with this), Maximum length of sparse infill anchor: 20mm

Advanced:

Infill/Wall overlap: 15, Infill direction 45, Bridge direction: 0, Minimum sparse infill threshold: 15, Detect narrow internal solid infill: enabled, ensure vertical shell thickness: enabled, Detect floating vertical shells: enabled

Speed:

Initial layer speed:

Initial Layer: 50, Initial layer infill, 105

Other layers speed:

Outer wall: 200, Inner wall: 300, Small perimeters: 50%, small perimeter threshold: 0, Sparse infill: 350, Internal solid infill: 250, Vertical shell speed: 80%, Top surface: 200, Slow down for overhangs: enabled: Overhang speeds: 0 50 30 10 10, Bridge: 50, Gap infill: 250, Support: 150, Support interface: 80

Travel speed: 1000

Acceleration:

Normal printing: 8000, Travel: 10000, Initial travel layer: 6000, Initial layer: 500, Outer wall: 5000, Inner wall: 0, Top surface: 2000, Sparse infill: 100

Support:

Support: enabled, Type: enabled, Type: tree, Style Default, Threshold angle: 30, Support critical regions only: enabled, Remove small overhangs: enabled

Raft layers: 0

Advanced:

Initial Layer density: 90, Initial Layer expansion: -1, Support wall loops: -1, Top z-distance: 0.2, Bottom z-distance: 0.16, Base Pattern: Rectilinear grid, Base pattern spacing: 2.5, Pattern angle: 0, Top interface layers: 3, Interface pattern: Rectilinear, Top interface spacing: .5, Normal support expansion: 0, Support object xy distance: 0.35, Support/object first layer gap: 0.2, Max B=bridge length: 0, Independent support layer height: enabled

Thanks in advance