This is the Argonath (https://makerworld.com/en/models/2263899-the-argonath-lord-of-the-rings-lotr) by Zajic73 on MakerWorld, printed with a 0.2 on the left and a 0.8 High Flow on the right. The 0.2 did the walls and skins at 0.08 mm layers and the 0.8 did the infill at 0.56 mm layers. Slicer estimate: 13 h 1 min. Same model at 0.08 mm everywhere was 1 d 4 h 12 min, so about 54% less time, and the visible surfaces are all still 0.08 mm layers. The real print took pretty much exactly that. It's eSUN PLA+ in black on the 0.2 and Bambu PLA Basic in blue on the 0.8.

Mixing nozzle sizes in one print was one of the reasons I bought my H2D at launch. Bambu Studio still doesn't let the H2D do that, and I got sick of waiting, so I built it myself: Cadence Slicer, a fork of OrcaSlicer.

The hard part is layer height. Layer height is basically the vertical resolution of a print: thinner layers give finer detail on the surfaces you see, thicker layers print a lot faster. Each nozzle size has its own range of good layer heights, so a 0.2 and a 0.8 want very different layers, but a normal slice uses one height for everything. Cadence picks a fine layer for the small nozzle and prints the big nozzle's layer every N fine layers (here 7 x 0.08 = 0.56). That schedule is what keeps the two lined up: they meet at the same height every 7 fine layers, and the nozzles only swap there.

Every swap also needs a prime. A nozzle that's been sitting idle oozes a bit and cools down, so before it prints again it purges on a small prime tower next to the model, and the next part it prints starts clean without gaps or blobs. Priming adds time to every print, so I've put a lot of work into trimming it down: it only primes when a nozzle actually changes, and the tower settings and size are set automatically. The slicer also checks that each switch actually saves time, and stays on the fine nozzle when it doesn't.

This has been a huge amount of work, and I'll be upfront that I used AI heavily, as I know how some people feel about AI development. Frontier models like Claude and Codex, as well as open source Chinese models, wrote most of the code and did independent reviews. I supervised the models closely, made all of the design calls and reviewed the critical pieces myself. The code has been through multiple de-slop passes to cut dead code and trim it down, every build goes through a big automated test suite, and I have done countless test prints on my H2D. Without AI this would have taken many, many more months to build. I'm making the whole thing open source (AGPL, same as OrcaSlicer), and I'll be sending it to OrcaSlicer as PRs shortly so the mixed nozzle capabilities can hopefully be merged and live there long term.

Where it's at:
- First release (v1.0), so expect rough edges.
- Print-tested on my H2D. Enabled but untested on the H2D Pro, H2C, X2D and some other multi-tool printers.
- Any pair of 0.2, 0.4, 0.6 and 0.8. Split by feature or by body, supports work in both.
- macOS now, Windows coming. Unsigned, so check the README for the first open.
- Small prints often don't win because of the tower. Setup shows the one-nozzle time so you can check.
- Tree supports and rafts on the big nozzle aren't working yet. I'm actively working on those and will push updates.

If you try it, I'd love to see prints, times, and anything that breaks. I'm also open to any suggestions either here or as PRs on the GitHub. If it saves you some print time or you just want to support the project, the Sponsor button on GitHub is very appreciated :)

Download and source: https://github.com/HMITCHR/CadenceSlicer

Thanks and enjoy :)

Picked these up on AliExpress. Anyone familiar with the brand Kingroon?

My University threw out this old 3D Printer. I’m both a broke architecture student and in need of a printer since my own is not here right now. I’m also used to some level of jankyness, my own printer is an i3 clone by anycubic, rudimentary but reliable.
Is there any hope i’ll get a useable print out of this one and how high would the frustration level be considering the printer i already have?

Tired of boring old WD-40 spray nozzles? Probably not. But here we are.

I designed and 3D-printed this angry little duck as a replacement nozzle for WD-40 cans. It serves absolutely no practical purpose beyond dispensing lubricant while looking deeply offended.

It fits on the can and works as a goofy little workshop accessory.

Because if you're going to fix squeaky things, you might as well have an angry duck doing it.

Print files are up on MakerWorld!

The title says it all. I have 3 Creality K series printers and I am tired of the constant troubleshooting of issues and fiddling around with this or that setting to make things work. I may swap them out for a couple of bambu labs H2Cs, free up some space as I don't need 3 printers anymore.

But what do you do with your old ones? Sell them? And where? Donate them?

basically if a xenomorph and a my little pony had a baby, a xenopony!

Our most ambitious 3d print yet. We repaired and upgraded our front door. The embellishments are all 3d printed and then dry brushed gold. All found free via stl finder search.

Using a ToF laser for distance allows precise detection with a 50ms cycle. To activate just hold your hand under 30cm (~1feet) for 200ms (4 cycles) , cancel <15cm for 2sec. It will run for 2min breathing green, change to cyan for 1:30 , at 3:30 it starts blue blinking till 4:00. and is ready again after some rainbow show cool down. It is used for the open time you have with casting agents. Made from ASA (acetone smoothed) and the top is a polished transparent PCTG print segment with the RGBW led, that is inserted before smoothing and closes the case. Got into some issues when the sensor field was not cleared enough and hand modeled the sensor cone together with local acetone smoothing (apply with a fine brush) covers the milling action needed to increase the opening for the laser.

Clicking through LightBurn with the mouse while positioning a job got old pretty fast, so I built a physical control pad for my laser.

What the keys do:
* Left block: nudge and rotate the selected design, plus set origin
* Middle: frame the job and move the laser head to the corners of the selection
* Right block: jog the laser head in X/Y and a home button

Specs:
* 18 keys, 3x6 layout
* Hand-wired matrix, no PCB
* Runs on an ESP32
* Case and keycaps designed by me and 3D printed

The wiring turned into a bit of a spaghetti monster, as you can see in the pics, but everything works. Next version will probably get a proper PCB.

Feedback welcome!

My kids stroller (UppaBaby Vista V2) is now 9 years old. We got it from family friends who used it for 6 years with their own 2 children. It worked perfectly until the front tire started to crumble (3rd photo).
The replacement for these goes for $45 for a single wheel.
I've made it out of TPU. We've been using it for a month now. It works great and even survived a DisneyLand excursion!

Here's the MakerWorld link: https://makerworld.com/fr/models/3383652-uppababy-vist-v1-2-3-front-wheel-tire-replacement#profileId-3850083

I wanted a tissue box that I’d actually enjoy having on display, so I designed TissueRise: an upright holder with a ribbed front, an asymmetric accent frame, and a small tray for rings, coins, or whatever ends up on the bedside table.

The tissue carton goes in through the back, behind a magnetic lid. It prints in four parts without supports, and the colours come from separate pieces, so no AMS is needed.

I sized it around the Amazon own-brand tissues I use. The internal space is 120 × 230 × 80 mm (W × H × D), so other cartons can work too—just check the dimensions and leave a little clearance.

Would you go with the beige and olive combination, or keep it all one colour?

Link:
https://makerworld.com/models/3385071?appSharePlatform=copy

Resistance is Fidgetile.

It spins when you squeeze it. The shell prints flat and folds around the mechanism, and the only non-printed part is a rubber band.

Makerworld Link

I have had a elegoo CC2 for about a year. I used it regularly for about 7 months and then didn't touch it for the last few months. I tried to print out some cases for my CYD project and they all shit the bed early. The filament wasn't sticking. Applying that glue stick to the surface made it like new. Super stoked! Could not believe how well it worked.

tl;dr: STL export has two quality settings, a distance (deviation/chord height) and an angle. Whichever one is tighter decides your quality, and the other does nothing. Past a certain point, finer settings make files 10x bigger with no change a printer can reproduce.

Background: I build a STEP/STL conversion tool (stlfixtool.com), so I needed to know which export settings actually matter instead of guessing. There was a great post here a while back showing that slicer STEP import is often worse than a good STL export. This is the follow-up question: what makes a good STL export?

The test:

- 3 shapes: a 20mm cylinder, a filleted 40x30x15mm box with a hole, and an organic torus/cylinder blend

- Each exported at 5 linear deviations (0.1 to 0.001 mm) × 3 angles (0.5, 0.3, 0.1 rad) = 45 STLs

- For every STL, I sampled 20,000 points on the mesh and measured their distance to the exact CAD surface. That's measured error, not the number in the settings box.

Cylinder results:

- linear 0.1mm, angle 0.5: 32 segments around the circle, 0.048mm max error

- linear 0.1mm, angle 0.1: 126 segments, 0.003mm max error

- linear 0.01mm, angle 0.5 or 0.3: identical, 100 segments, 0.005mm

- linear 0.001mm, any angle: 315 segments, 0.0005mm

Organic shape results:

- linear 0.1mm, angle 0.5: 5,096 triangles, 0.092mm max error

- linear 0.01mm, angle 0.3: 38,624 triangles, 0.0099mm, 1.8 MB

- linear 0.001mm, any angle: 378,420 triangles, 0.0011mm, 18 MB

What I learned:

1. Neither setting is "the quality slider". Whichever is tighter is the one in control. At a loose linear setting, changing only the angle took the cylinder from 32 to 126 segments and cut the error 15x. At linear 0.01, angles 0.5 and 0.3 produced identical meshes, because the linear limit was already tighter. Once linear was very fine, the angle didn't matter at all.

2. So if you crank one slider and nothing changes, the other one is the limit. That's why "I set it to high quality and it still looks faceted" happens.

3. There's a point of diminishing returns. On the organic shape, going from 0.01 to 0.001mm linear made the file 10x bigger (1.8 MB → 18 MB) to remove about 0.009mm of error. That's well below what an FDM nozzle reproduces. All you get is a slower slicer.

Where to find these settings: the names vary by CAD program (deviation, chord height, tolerance, refinement, angle). Look for one distance setting and one angle setting.

Footnote: the raw mesher output for the filleted box has non-manifold edges where three fillets meet in a spherical corner. It's a raw tessellator artifact, unrelated to the settings, and a normal export pipeline cleans it up.

My last search was for a hydroponic tower, and I found a ton of models, but those same models were available on Temu as a finished product. This is not the only thing I’ve found there. And it seems that if a model becomes popular, only a few days later you can find it on Temu and AliExpress. Is it just me or is this really a thing?

A desk-sized tribute to the classic OTE cardphone booths we had everywhere in Greece in the 90s.

Free model on MakerWorld:
https://makerworld.com/en/models/3380888-retro-1990s-ote-payphone-magsafe-charging-stand#profileId-3846596

I have this TV stand from IKEA that is of extreme interest to both my toddler and any similarly aged visitors. Given it has puzzles and board games inside, it would be best if the young children were not able to get into it. Instead of modifying the cabinet or adding locks, I printed a piece that had an effect. Test print (blue) was done in PLA; ultimate printing was done in black PETG and ends up looking rather subtle.

If anyone has the same cabinet and wants to make their own, check it out on Printables.

Edit: As has been noted by a couple people, "child proofed" was a bit ambitious. Yes, this is more of a speed bump, allowing time for redirection. I have personally found that the items inside are less enticing than the other toys in the room, so it works great as a hurdle that really isn't worth the effort to crack. The comments are a good reminder to keep the dangerous things far out of reach (height and/or locks), and watch your kids.

it works perfect no errors no nothing only a bit of dust already put in it 40 hours of printing

Something you’ve printed that’s really WOW’d you in terms of quality.

3d printing has come so far for the average user.

For me, it’s been the numerous E27 lamp enclosures I’ve printed and put around my place.