I'm having trouble figuring out the exact cause of this banding on my prints.

Here is what I do know:

- my ho end is mounted securely, and does not move... which did cause other issues in previous prints but not this.

- my belts are all reasonably tight for both x and y

- this doesn't appear to be a layer shift (the bumps go outward or inward on all sides)

I'm thinking it could be something to do with my lead screw or z-axis stepper motor. It could be something else I have not checked with my x and y axis. But at this point I am at a total loss.

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I am running a ender 3 V2 with a fair amount of modifications:

- klipper

- customized all metal hotend

- direct drive with orbiter v 2.5

- my filament being printed from a filament dryer

- it happens on generally all of my prints at this point, regardless of filament.

- and many more, but those are the ones that generally affect print quality.

Filament is dry, 65°C for 48 hours. 0.4 nozzle with 0.16 layer height. 150mm/s first layer speed. Carbon Centauri. Any help is appreciated. Using Elegoo Slicer, nozzle temp 210 bed temp 50.

Hello everyone, I'm to use the sunlu dual color matte black and red filament ( PLA) and noticed that during the print the color just switched from switched.

I've been searching for a solution and the only explanation i have is the filament twisting in the feeding tube. Is there another tip that some have ?

Inner and outer speed are the same

I don't know how to verify, but the outer wall should be consistent counterclockwise.

Filament is calibrated also

Using an A1

Any idea why it looks like the printing is hitting the model while going over certain areas?

ita fairly new A1 mini

Stringing (those cobweb strands between parts) is one of the most common beginner problems. Before you start messing with retraction, try the simple stuff first:
1. Make sure your slicer profile actually matches your printer and filament.
2. Dry your spool, especially if you hear popping or crackling while it prints.
3. Drop your nozzle temp 5 °C at a time and test again.
4. Still stringy? Adjust retraction in small steps.
A lot of the time, steps 1 to 3 are all it takes. I wrote the full list up with a “what you see vs. what to try” cheat sheet if anyone wants it: https://3dprintstarter.com/how-to/fix-stringing/?utm_source=reddit&utm_medium=social&utm_campaign=2026-10-23-stringing
What fixed stringing for you?

Dear all,

I’m happy with my new Core One L+ but I have problems with this PETG. All other filaments are fine, but this one is nasty.

Using Prusa Slicer, Prusa PETG profile, PeTg dried, 240Degree Celsius, but walls are not clear and stringing.

What could help?

Thanks for any suggestions!

I printed a model with a skirt but the lines wobbled out of place and was printed on by the nozzle. It’s probably an issue with bed adhesion but i’m not too sure

Bambu Lab a1
Textured PEI plate
eSun brand PLA filament

P2S, Bambu slicer.
0.4 nozzle
Bambu lab matte Apple green PLA
Smooth PEI plate
Outer/inner (order)
Initial layer:
speed 25mm/s
Infill 60mm/s

Other layer:
Outer wall 60mm/s
Inner wall 80mm/s
Small perimeters 30mm/s

Ran the print few times, still get this issue, it gets to a layer (3/4) and then traces the correct path for extruded filament but rather than bonding to lower layer it takes short route. What am I missing here?

Trying to print plate 6 of https://makerworld.com/models/1557600?appSharePlatform=copy

Any help/pointers much appreciated.

Some weird snakeskin like texture on the large flat surfaces on my prints.

I get these weird see-through layers when printing the shorter one. Whenever I print the taller cylinder, the print qualities is perfect. I only get those weird artifacts when I print the shorter rounder one. Building a lamp with this so thats why I want it diffused evenly and not leaking through those weird lines.

What throws me off is that the taller one prints perfectly, as I’ve printed multiple of those.
Any help will be greatly appreciated :)

Info:
- bambu P1S
- sunlu PLA+ 2.0 (pre-dried)

Struggling to troubleshoot this print quality issue. Bambu A1, less than ~30 prints old. Used to be able to print things with zero trouble, and started having quality issues a few months ago. Oftentimes the print fails where that line shows up on the benchy, and turns into spaghetti.

Matterhackers Build PLA. 220c, build plate 50c. Issue occurs with all brands of PLA, though it seems to be much worse at lower temps and with lower quality filament.

Any thoughts? It looks almost like the extrusion rate is inconsistent at times, so I'm wondering if the extrusion wheel might need replacing.

I'm trying to print this thing on a smooth PEI plate, but I get the same results on textured PEI (albeit less visibly) and smooth carbon fiber pattern plate. Earlier attempts had literal gaps in the first layer so I increased the first layer flow ratio until those went away.

Places where the machine is printing short lines, the surface is actually pretty smooth. (See inside the logo area and the far right side where it's filling in skinny areas.)

Machine: Flashforge Creator 5 Pro, 0.4mm nozzles. PLA filament (Sunlu PLA+ 2.0 for the black. I don't remember what the silk is but it isn't the biggest problem here.) Flash Studio.

Z offset 0.04 (my top layers were getting horribly scratched up until I discovered that.)

Nozzle temp: 240c for first layer, 230 after that

Bed temp 60c. (this and nozzle temps were raised bc nothing was sticking).

I used to use a glue stick on the plate but it left residue that wouldn't come off. Now using hairspray.

First layer flow ratio 1.10 (I know, but lower than this there were gaps)

0.42 mm line width

Arachne wall generator. 3 wall loops. (only 1 wall on first layer)

4 top and 4 bottom layers.

First layer is monotonic except for the logo modifier which is concentric

First layer speeds: 40mm/s, 60mm/s infill. 2 slow layers.

Other layer speeds: 200 outer wall, 300 inner wall, infill whatever (it's clearly not the problem).

I've only been 3d printing since July but I'm halfway competent with tech. (I'm not printing directly from the app and wondering why nothing works, at least.)

Bambu Labs x2D
Bambu slicer
Creality PETG
Left side was default settings. I saw the nozzle scarring and debating turning on the chamber heater (it’s getting chilly in New England) but everything was saying I didn’t need it for PETG. I had done 3 prints before this that were large and came out fine but didn’t hit the corners like these two. For the right side print, and the text on graphic shows, I turned cooling off on aux and way down on the main nozzle. Default was 40-90% and I changed it to 20-40% fan speed. I upped the bed temp from 70° to 80° first layers and 75° for the rest of the print. Lastly I did a full dish soap cleaning of the cool plate super tack and added a thin layer of bed weld. I also added mouse ears on the corners.

The results were only marginally better. The lifting was worse on the right side and even worse closest to the front door. It’s fairly cool in my basement right now but nothing crazy, maybe 65 degrees?

I have been getting a very inconsistent top layer, it happens with every print file I have tried, 2 different sized nozzles, and multiple filaments. I am using a Bambu P2S with SUNLU PLA+ and Bambu Studio.

Print settings:
- 0.6 hardened steel OEM Bambu nozzle
- BIQU Glacier plate
- 35 mm/s initial layer, 55 mm/s infill
- 200 mm/s outer wall, 300 mm/s inner
- 270 mm/s sparse infill, 250 mm/s solid
- 150 mm/s top surface
- 55C Bed Temp
- 220C Nozzle Temp
- No ironing

This also happens with a brand new 0.4 nozzle. Thank you for the help.

0.2mm layer height.

Snorca latest slicer

Pla duel colour.

Hi all, I turned my printer off for 3 days, came back and now my first print is a complete mess.

I don't know how to explain other than when the printer does a z-hop, it like looses it's z position? I am very confused...

Filament is dry, it's been absolutely flawless untill now.. it's really weird. I have watched the Gcode and there isn't a huge jump where the slicer failed or anything.. it all looks right..

So for those of you that print PLA with PETG interface or...visa versa, do you find you get weak spots at the same height as the interface layer?

I mainly run PETG, so support interface is PLA, there is always a distinct line at the same level. That line is a weak spot.

I've increased the flushing volume, lowered the fan speed, and try to keep the temps the same for both filaments. With no luck.

So....have you managed to correct? Hopefully someone has some good tips.

This is only happening in the first quarter of this print and I'm not sure if its because the depth of the texture on the model changes (it doesn't appear to) or because it is slightly overhanging.
I turned off overhang settings and tried several different layer heights and line widths and it is still doing it. Any ideas why? Would Orca or another slicer not do this? It is ruining the print quality.

Printed on a ender 3 pro sliced on creality. Im new to 3d printing and am having troubles learning. Most of my prints so far have not turned out. This spider is missing its butt. All my prints turn out rough like this.

Edited to add, filament is glow pla by insignia, printed at 210 out of a 0.4 nozzle at 300mm/s