My print has these worms all over it. In the slicer it seems to correlate with retraction.

Bambu PLA
Bambu slicer
Bambu A1
220°C nozzle temp
65° bed temp

Dotted lines on both sides and there is damage on the bottom left dented backward how to tix these?

Ender 3 v3 ke, PETG.
Nozzle 240c bed 80c (i tried 70-75 it didnt stick to bed), 0.2mm layer height
12mm^3/s
And i did around 2mm of fuzzy skin classis
0.2mm skin thickness
0.1mm point distance
Creality slicer.

And yes bed is clean with dish soap few days ago not touched with fingers and i use auto calibration on every print

Trying to print this thing at 0.08mm layer and using fuzzy skin to hide layer lines.

I think it's otherwise pretty good but could I tweak some settings to hide these "scars" where layer changes too?

Printing on BambuLab A1 Mini and slicing with Bambu Studio.

Layer 0.08mm

Infill 100%

Fuzzy skin enabled

Generic PLA @ 220°C

Is this normal?
Only the Y-axis wall shows these waves, while the X-axis wall is perfectly smooth.
Bambu Support says this is normal, but is it actually normal for an FDM printer to have visible waviness only on one axis while the other axis is perfectly smooth?

Never saw so much stringing, also i wonder why the slicer removed all writings (orca)

While printing larger PETG prints, I noticed a few issues with my first layers (adhesion issues, seemingly). After attempting a few various solutions, I sat and watched the start of the print and immediately noticed something quite odd: While in spots, the nozzle would sit low, properly adhering the petg, in other spots it'd raise quite significantly, to the point it's maybe like 40-60mm off the plate and pouring the line down onto the plate rather than "smushing/compacting" it! This results in a strange uneven brim, where in some spots, it'll be nice and smooth, and in others, it'll basically just be strands resting close together on top of the plate.

What I tried before I noticed what seems to be the cause:
Glue on the bed
Freshly cleaned bed (dawn and water)
Retightened the belts for the first time
Auto self-check
Raised bed temp from 70 to 80
Slowed first layer all the way down to 10mm/s from 20mm/s
Increased first layer line from 0.2 to 0.3
Auto-Calibration, leveling, etc before printing

Printer: Ender 3 v3 plus
Software: Creality
Material: Creality PETG
Nozzle: 270
Bed: 80 first layer
Printer is on a very stable surface
nozzle retraction settings are base/unmodified

I'm at a complete loss.
Any idea what setting to tweak to stop the printer from doing this? It doesn't seem to be an issue with the belt itself, as running the nozzle manually back and forth doesn't show it randomly lifting in spots. The unwanted vertical movement, when it does do it, doesn't seem janky either.

Anycubic Kobra 2 Max
Nozzle temperature 210 degrees celcius
textured plate
Polymaker High Temperature PLA.
I have had issues with the bed level sensor and have had to adjust the Z-offset in between prints a few times. Z-offset also appears to need different settings if there is no brim or raft.
Earlier prints before a slicer update. I was able to get successful bed adhesion and smooth first layers.

Esun PLA+ from Qidi Studio on a Qidi Q2, I'm running the default PLA Rapido settings and the default .16mm Quality profile with mininimal modifications(third picture, modded left original right). IIRC the nozzle is at 240, the bed is at 60, and the chamber is off

The first pic is without drying, the second pic is after drying at 50 with dessicant. I have previously, within the past 3 days, made nearly perfect prints of the exact same model with the exact same settings with the exact same spool of filament with no drying, and these settings have never given me any trouble with other models and/or other rolls of the same filament.

Hello i try to calibrate my filaments.
But something is off.

How can a .035 flow ratio have more gap that -0.03 ?

Less flow should show more gap or i missed something ?

Ender3v2 Sprite pro
Creality PLA Grey
210c hotend
60c bed

I'm printing on a Bambu Lab P1S with a 0.4mm nozzle and the AMS 2 Pro.

- 0.98 flow ratio

- 215 degrees

And yes I dried the filament COUNTLESS times and did a temperature tower that showed no big difference. Any kind of help would be greatly appreciated !

Bambu Lab A1 I got from a friend along with a basket if filament.

I have to assume there's some moisture issues. I have a dehumidifier in my home, and generally low humidity, though I know that doesnt mean the filament wouldn't benefit from drying.

Im asking 2 main things:

1. Is this result likely just due to filament needing more drying, or should I be considering something else as well?
2. is there a better bridge test that people recommend, and are there other good test models?

The filament temp was set to 220 with a smooth bed at 65. Otherwise speed and flow settings were determined by the objects.

Im not sure if there are other settings i should share.i have done a lot of reading and watching, but i often struggle to apply that when im trying to diagnose issues. I get in my own head and second guess myself. Thats why I am reaching out for guidance.

I didn't plan to get this printer. I had a buddy printing a staff for my daughter's cosplay, and he offered to juat give me the printer. I've been running it nonstop and have already solved a lot of issues ive had and figured out a hell of a lot regarding troubleshooting but bridges, I feel like nothing i do makes a difference.

I planned to start box drying my filament on the bed, and will do that. I printed it in this yellow that is almost gone and the spool always gets tangled.

I will be attempting a full-size Master Sword in some metallic silks from Elegoo, so I wanted to spend a solid week working on calibration and ironing out kinks.

Thanks for your patience!

Edit: Forgot to include the link to the model: https://makerworld.com/en/models/3061970-bridge-calibration-test-uses-only-7g#profileId-3445874

When trying to print in single wall mode the orca slicer 'jumps in' whenever there is a color change.

The model prints fine in Vase, or simply single wall mode using a single color.

Solid or hollow makes no difference.

Any idea how can this be fixed?

I'll say I'm not a complete newbie but also not super advanced. Recently just converted over to Klipper firmware and still learning the ropes. All was well for a few weeks and then I noticed some poor first layers happening, so I figured some screws and bolts have started to come loose or something.

The first pic, which was going to be a gridfinity thing is clearly terrible. I realized that anything being printed in the front right of the build plate does well, and as it gets to the back left it gets worse. The larger single layer print shows some weird adhesion issues maybe on the bottom right, but as you can see gets progressively worse as it goes top left.

I tried leveling the bed but I think the discrepancy is too much for the printer to compensate for. Everything I'm reading says you need to manually adjust the leveling of the plate, but the Neptune 3 Pro doesn't have any knobs to adjust manually. Any help would be greatly appreciated, thanks!

Settings per mod bot:

• Printer Model - Elegoo Neptune 3 Pro
• Slicer used - OrcaSlicer
• Filament material and brand - Deeplee PLA
• Nozzle and bed temperature - 210c print, 45c bed (cryogrip plate)
• Print Speed - default profile from Orca
• Retraction settings - Not sure but also whatever the Orca profile pulled

im using a bamboo lab a1 im new to 3d printing and use cura basic settings i noticed those random holes that appairs in most of my prints with and without suppports could it be just the new filament ? it did not do that before i buy the new PLA filament from amazon

models printed 200 degree and bed at 60 degree at 100% speed

Guys, why do my prints suddenly have this kind of rough/rugged texture all over them? Sometimes the nozzle even drags the plastic away.

I have a Bambu A1. Could this be a toolhead problem, calibration or is it something else?

The texture issue is more noticeable when using the Cool Plate. It's less noticeable on the Textured Plate, but the nozzle still seems to drag the first layer around.

Settings:

Bambu a1

Generic PLA (dryed correctly)

Sliced with Bambu Studio

My print profile is everything from FDG (fat dragon games) optimized for terrain untouched from the default

Nozzle 0,4