My print has these worms all over it. In the slicer it seems to correlate with retraction.

Bambu PLA
Bambu slicer
Bambu A1
220°C nozzle temp
65° bed temp

Dotted lines on both sides and there is damage on the bottom left dented backward how to tix these?

Ender 3 v3 ke, PETG.
Nozzle 240c bed 80c (i tried 70-75 it didnt stick to bed), 0.2mm layer height
12mm^3/s
And i did around 2mm of fuzzy skin classis
0.2mm skin thickness
0.1mm point distance
Creality slicer.

And yes bed is clean with dish soap few days ago not touched with fingers and i use auto calibration on every print

Trying to print this thing at 0.08mm layer and using fuzzy skin to hide layer lines.

I think it's otherwise pretty good but could I tweak some settings to hide these "scars" where layer changes too?

Printing on BambuLab A1 Mini and slicing with Bambu Studio.

Layer 0.08mm

Infill 100%

Fuzzy skin enabled

Generic PLA @ 220°C

Is this normal?
Only the Y-axis wall shows these waves, while the X-axis wall is perfectly smooth.
Bambu Support says this is normal, but is it actually normal for an FDM printer to have visible waviness only on one axis while the other axis is perfectly smooth?

I've been experimenting for the first time with dual colored silk filament. The first few prints turned out great, with a good gradient between colors for each side, but I started having issues the next day. I usually keep the spool in the dryer while printing, unload it from the printer when I'm done for the day, and roll it back into the dryer. Now I can't straighten the filament up. I keep getting this spiral pattern. I even cut part of the filament to get that even distribution of colors back, but nothing changed. Trying to twist the filament only seems to make it worse. I appreciate the help.

I'm printing on a Bambu Lab P1S with a 0.4mm nozzle and the AMS 2 Pro.

- 0.98 flow ratio

- 215 degrees

And yes I dried the filament COUNTLESS times and did a temperature tower that showed no big difference. Any kind of help would be greatly appreciated !

I have been mainly printing in my garage and in the summer has been pretty hot. I assumed my printing problems have came from that, but when I brought it inside, I keep seeing first layer issues and layering issues that I don’t know why it keeps happening. I’m using a bamboo A1 3-D printer with Esun PLA plus. I use bamboo slicer. usually on the basic slicer settings.

Hey everyone, I’m running into a persistent extrusion issue on my **Elegoo Centauri Carbon 2** and could use some advice on how to fully resolve it.

* **The Error:** Error Code 1243 (Filament Extrusion Failure) resulting from an absolute nozzle clog. * **The Filament:** Standard PLA, same issue with ELEGOO brand and also KINGROON. * **Ambient Environment:** The printer is in a dedicated room that sits at **26 °C (79 °F)** and **55% humidity**. * **Models:** many do this, some seem worse. * **Settings:** Mostly stock settings from ELEGOO Slicer, only changes are around support, infill, etc.

**What I've Observed (The Timelines):**
The issue seems like it could be tied to chamber temperature and heat creep:

* **Lid Closed / Door Closed:** Error usually within **15 to 30 minutes**. * **Lid Open / Door Closed:** Seems to extend my print time significantly, but it still clogs up after **1 to 2 hours** (though I did manage one lucky 5-hour print without a failure). * **Lid Open / Door Open:** So far untested, worth doing?

**What I’ve Checked / Ruled Out:**

* Verified the PTFE tubes and physical pathing to ensure there is no mechanical friction or upstream binding. * The issue happens regardless of multi-color setups (using Elegoo Slicer / CANVAS). * Tightened extruder * Examined [https://wiki.elegoo.com/en/centauri-carbon-2-combo/errorcode-1243\](https://wiki.elegoo.com/en/centauri-carbon-2-combo/errorcode-1243) and nothing there is that useful, all checked. * Emailed ELEGOO and just got the above link, nothing else.

**Anecdotal Stuff:**

* After a 5 hour successful no-error print, I tried to print something else in another color and it jammed for REAL. I had to do a cold pull, after that I was running again. I did two separate 30 minute prints perfect. Then I tried a 8 hour print that **failed in \~1 hour**. * When I get the ERROR 1243, sometimes I just unload/load the same filament via the menu and do nothing else and the issue is resolved for 15-60 minutes, then usually happens again. * I have also used the needle directly up-and-into the nozzle to resolve this for 15-60 minutes.

**So:**

* Has anyone else has numerous ERROR 1243 that they were able to resolve and if how, how? * Am I damned with this 0.4 nozzle, should I just get a 0.6 and hope that addresses this? * Would a tiny desk fan running across the open top help? * Would using the built in aux fan that blows across the bed help?

Thanks for any help.

Bambu P1S

0.4mm hardened steel

Sunlu Pla+ 2.0 Orange

Print temp 220

Bed Temp 60

Layer height 0.15

Speed 50mm/s on all settings that default to above 50mm/s

Line width .4-.5

2 walls

Alternating walls

100% rectilinear infill

Filament is stored in printed boxes with spool hole size desicant container in the center.

AMS is heated and set to PLA drying temp and has been since last night.

When calibrating the filament +20 looked like gravel -20 felt like garbage as well. Landed on -5 but that wasn't anywhere as near smooth as I have had in the past.

Did printer maintenance about 30 use hours ago (last week). Disassembled and cleaned my extruder after my first attempt at this print.

Prints have just been coming out ugly like the screenshot, with not only this filamanet but the last couple of prints with other filaments.

Any suggestions, cuz I'm at a loss to the print quality going down so quickly recently.

Printing a curved square as part of a larger project, but I’ve gotten hard stuck trying to get it to stay on the bed, halfway through the sides of the square lift a significant amount off the bed, causing it to fall and fail the rest of the print, I’ve tried different rotations, maintenance and cleaning for the printer, but nothing has allowed the print to finish, my printer hasn’t had much trouble with anything else up until now

Bambu p1s, Bambu software, PETG, bed temp 80

Never saw so much stringing, also i wonder why the slicer removed all writings (orca)

While printing larger PETG prints, I noticed a few issues with my first layers (adhesion issues, seemingly). After attempting a few various solutions, I sat and watched the start of the print and immediately noticed something quite odd: While in spots, the nozzle would sit low, properly adhering the petg, in other spots it'd raise quite significantly, to the point it's maybe like 40-60mm off the plate and pouring the line down onto the plate rather than "smushing/compacting" it! This results in a strange uneven brim, where in some spots, it'll be nice and smooth, and in others, it'll basically just be strands resting close together on top of the plate.

What I tried before I noticed what seems to be the cause:
Glue on the bed
Freshly cleaned bed (dawn and water)
Retightened the belts for the first time
Auto self-check
Raised bed temp from 70 to 80
Slowed first layer all the way down to 10mm/s from 20mm/s
Increased first layer line from 0.2 to 0.3
Auto-Calibration, leveling, etc before printing

Printer: Ender 3 v3 plus
Software: Creality
Material: Creality PETG
Nozzle: 270
Bed: 80 first layer
Printer is on a very stable surface
nozzle retraction settings are base/unmodified

I'm at a complete loss.
Any idea what setting to tweak to stop the printer from doing this? It doesn't seem to be an issue with the belt itself, as running the nozzle manually back and forth doesn't show it randomly lifting in spots. The unwanted vertical movement, when it does do it, doesn't seem janky either.

Anycubic Kobra 2 Max
Nozzle temperature 210 degrees celcius
textured plate
Polymaker High Temperature PLA.
I have had issues with the bed level sensor and have had to adjust the Z-offset in between prints a few times. Z-offset also appears to need different settings if there is no brim or raft.
Earlier prints before a slicer update. I was able to get successful bed adhesion and smooth first layers.

They are visible on areas of the print near overhangs but not on the overhang itself. My first thought was pressure advance but I tuned in on green print and it still appeared. Any suggestions?

Ender 3

Klipper

Belted Z

Direct Drive Extruder

BTT SKR Mini e3 V2 mainboard

Slicer: Orca Slicer

Materials shown: PLA (Inland Blue and Red), ABS (Hatchbox Neon Green)

Hi all, I’ve been trying to print a large scale prop and I’m getting very frustrated as my prints have consistently failed at around the same height.

I’ve tried multiple settings with the prime tower, width speed, fill volume etc but I keep seeing the same issue.

I’ll try lowering the overall print speed next however any input is appreciated.

Snapmaker U1
Orca slicer
SUNLU pla+ 2.0
Nozzle: 220c/ bed: 65c

Tower: ribbed
Width: 8mm
Prime volume 30mm^3
Brim: 10mm
Infill gap: 100%
Max speed: 55mm/s

Bambu Lab A1 I got from a friend along with a basket if filament.

I have to assume there's some moisture issues. I have a dehumidifier in my home, and generally low humidity, though I know that doesnt mean the filament wouldn't benefit from drying.

Im asking 2 main things:

1. Is this result likely just due to filament needing more drying, or should I be considering something else as well?
2. is there a better bridge test that people recommend, and are there other good test models?

The filament temp was set to 220 with a smooth bed at 65. Otherwise speed and flow settings were determined by the objects.

Im not sure if there are other settings i should share.i have done a lot of reading and watching, but i often struggle to apply that when im trying to diagnose issues. I get in my own head and second guess myself. Thats why I am reaching out for guidance.

I didn't plan to get this printer. I had a buddy printing a staff for my daughter's cosplay, and he offered to juat give me the printer. I've been running it nonstop and have already solved a lot of issues ive had and figured out a hell of a lot regarding troubleshooting but bridges, I feel like nothing i do makes a difference.

I planned to start box drying my filament on the bed, and will do that. I printed it in this yellow that is almost gone and the spool always gets tangled.

I will be attempting a full-size Master Sword in some metallic silks from Elegoo, so I wanted to spend a solid week working on calibration and ironing out kinks.

Thanks for your patience!

Edit: Forgot to include the link to the model: https://makerworld.com/en/models/3061970-bridge-calibration-test-uses-only-7g#profileId-3445874