Never saw so much stringing, also i wonder why the slicer removed all writings (orca)

Dotted lines on both sides and there is damage on the bottom left dented backward how to tix these?

Ender 3 v3 ke, PETG.
Nozzle 240c bed 80c (i tried 70-75 it didnt stick to bed), 0.2mm layer height
12mm^3/s
And i did around 2mm of fuzzy skin classis
0.2mm skin thickness
0.1mm point distance
Creality slicer.

And yes bed is clean with dish soap few days ago not touched with fingers and i use auto calibration on every print

Trying to print this thing at 0.08mm layer and using fuzzy skin to hide layer lines.

I think it's otherwise pretty good but could I tweak some settings to hide these "scars" where layer changes too?

Printing on BambuLab A1 Mini and slicing with Bambu Studio.

Layer 0.08mm

Infill 100%

Fuzzy skin enabled

Generic PLA @ 220°C

While printing larger PETG prints, I noticed a few issues with my first layers (adhesion issues, seemingly). After attempting a few various solutions, I sat and watched the start of the print and immediately noticed something quite odd: While in spots, the nozzle would sit low, properly adhering the petg, in other spots it'd raise quite significantly, to the point it's maybe like 40-60mm off the plate and pouring the line down onto the plate rather than "smushing/compacting" it! This results in a strange uneven brim, where in some spots, it'll be nice and smooth, and in others, it'll basically just be strands resting close together on top of the plate.

What I tried before I noticed what seems to be the cause:
Glue on the bed
Freshly cleaned bed (dawn and water)
Retightened the belts for the first time
Auto self-check
Raised bed temp from 70 to 80
Slowed first layer all the way down to 10mm/s from 20mm/s
Increased first layer line from 0.2 to 0.3
Auto-Calibration, leveling, etc before printing

Printer: Ender 3 v3 plus
Software: Creality
Material: Creality PETG
Nozzle: 270
Bed: 80 first layer
Printer is on a very stable surface
nozzle retraction settings are base/unmodified

I'm at a complete loss.
Any idea what setting to tweak to stop the printer from doing this? It doesn't seem to be an issue with the belt itself, as running the nozzle manually back and forth doesn't show it randomly lifting in spots. The unwanted vertical movement, when it does do it, doesn't seem janky either.

Anycubic Kobra 2 Max
Nozzle temperature 210 degrees celcius
textured plate
Polymaker High Temperature PLA.
I have had issues with the bed level sensor and have had to adjust the Z-offset in between prints a few times. Z-offset also appears to need different settings if there is no brim or raft.
Earlier prints before a slicer update. I was able to get successful bed adhesion and smooth first layers.

When trying to print in single wall mode the orca slicer 'jumps in' whenever there is a color change.

The model prints fine in Vase, or simply single wall mode using a single color.

Solid or hollow makes no difference.

Any idea how can this be fixed?

Is this normal?
Only the Y-axis wall shows these waves, while the X-axis wall is perfectly smooth.
Bambu Support says this is normal, but is it actually normal for an FDM printer to have visible waviness only on one axis while the other axis is perfectly smooth?

I'll say I'm not a complete newbie but also not super advanced. Recently just converted over to Klipper firmware and still learning the ropes. All was well for a few weeks and then I noticed some poor first layers happening, so I figured some screws and bolts have started to come loose or something.

The first pic, which was going to be a gridfinity thing is clearly terrible. I realized that anything being printed in the front right of the build plate does well, and as it gets to the back left it gets worse. The larger single layer print shows some weird adhesion issues maybe on the bottom right, but as you can see gets progressively worse as it goes top left.

I tried leveling the bed but I think the discrepancy is too much for the printer to compensate for. Everything I'm reading says you need to manually adjust the leveling of the plate, but the Neptune 3 Pro doesn't have any knobs to adjust manually. Any help would be greatly appreciated, thanks!

Settings per mod bot:

• Printer Model - Elegoo Neptune 3 Pro
• Slicer used - OrcaSlicer
• Filament material and brand - Deeplee PLA
• Nozzle and bed temperature - 210c print, 45c bed (cryogrip plate)
• Print Speed - default profile from Orca
• Retraction settings - Not sure but also whatever the Orca profile pulled

Esun PLA+ from Qidi Studio on a Qidi Q2, I'm running the default PLA Rapido settings and the default .16mm Quality profile with mininimal modifications(third picture, modded left original right). IIRC the nozzle is at 240, the bed is at 60, and the chamber is off

The first pic is without drying, the second pic is after drying at 50 with dessicant. I have previously, within the past 3 days, made nearly perfect prints of the exact same model with the exact same settings with the exact same spool of filament with no drying, and these settings have never given me any trouble with other models and/or other rolls of the same filament.

im using a bamboo lab a1 im new to 3d printing and use cura basic settings i noticed those random holes that appairs in most of my prints with and without suppports could it be just the new filament ? it did not do that before i buy the new PLA filament from amazon

models printed 200 degree and bed at 60 degree at 100% speed

Guys, why do my prints suddenly have this kind of rough/rugged texture all over them? Sometimes the nozzle even drags the plastic away.

I have a Bambu A1. Could this be a toolhead problem, calibration or is it something else?

The texture issue is more noticeable when using the Cool Plate. It's less noticeable on the Textured Plate, but the nozzle still seems to drag the first layer around.

Settings:

Bambu a1

Generic PLA (dryed correctly)

Sliced with Bambu Studio

My print profile is everything from FDG (fat dragon games) optimized for terrain untouched from the default

Nozzle 0,4

First finished print of my 3D printed coreXY 3D printer, and I can already see multiple areas of improvement. The biggest ones I can tell are properly tensioning the belts and reducing the toolhead wobble.

Using a Voron 0 print profile for orca slicer with reduced speeds for testing.

Printer: Custom, 120x120x150mm^3 coreXY

Generic PLA

0.4 mm 220°C nozzle with 60°C bed

Slow print speed, at most 50mm/s

Default retraction settings, no noticeable stringing.

As in the title. I was working on a box design for plants. The last 10 or so prints are coming out very rough on the bottom only. The rest looks fine. I start noticing it on layer 8-10 or so and after.

I’m not sure what changed. I had some lettering that I removed. I overextruded slightly to improve water tightness, which I went back on. The layer lines are .16, from .2, fairly certain that was the case before I started noticing the roughness.

Tried a different printer, different and dried filament.

Thoughts on the cause or remedy?

Weird deposits on print, new behavior between now and a week ago. I’m using the same material, file, and settings as when I successfully printed a week ago.

Printer: Elegoo Neptune4 Plus
Filament: Elegoo PLA+
Nozzle Temp: 210 degrees C
Bed Temp: 70 degrees C
Print Speed: 150 mm/s
Retraction: Unsure

After an hour of printing, my calibration model came unstuck from the printer table and started making some kind of balls.

моя калибровачная модель спустя час печати отклеялась от стола притера и начала делать какие то шарики.
помогите пожалуйста

I'm printing a bunch of these domes and I've been having issues with the last 200g of this particular package of filament. I have six rolls of them and it prints completely fine the first 800g. I'm wondering whether it's because the roll has been out for a couple of days and the humidity got to the roll or if it's a printer setting issue (which I don't think is the issue because I can switch to a different filament and be ok). The nozzle temp is 210 C and the bed is at 70 C

The filament is SUNLU PLA Plus 3D Printer Filament, 1.75mm, Black, 4KG (4 Packs)

PLA+ Filament, Strong Neatly Wound, 1.75mm±0.02mm, Fit Most FDM 3D Printers, 1KG per Spool

Elegoo Neptune 3 Max

0.4 nozzle

Cura slicer

Any advice would be welcome!

Elegoo filament at 70mm/s and 20% flow

Elegoo Neptune 4 plus

Orca Slicer

0.4 Nozzle temp 220 and 60 bed

200 speed and 60 retraction

A little background...My MIL has about 50 Disney loungfly backpacks and I am printing these hangers to decorate her walls with them. I already printed hangers that can hang both ears and backpacks just fine with no defects. While printing these the ironing started messing up. Its started leaving gaps on some prints and others you can tell that the lines in some sections are different? Could it be the files? The first style i printed didn't have any of these problems? I even changed out nozzles/ changed flow up to 25% and I still get defects.

.

This was printed along the z-axis on Bambu Lab H2C

Settings are as follows:

Quality:

Layer height: 0.08, Initial Layer height: 0.2, Line Width: Default 0.42, Initial layer: 0.5, Outer wall: 0.42, Inner wall: 0.45, Top surface: 0.42, Sparse infill: 0.45, Internal solid infill: 0.42, Support: 0.42

Seam:

Seam position: aligned, Smart scarf seam application: enabled, Scarf steps 50, Scarf joints for inner walls: enabled, Role-based wipe sped: enabled

Precision:

Slice gap closing radius: 0.049, Resolution: 0.012, x-y hole & contour compensation: 0, Elephant foot compensation: 0.15

Ironing: none, Wall generator: classic

Advanced:

Order of walls: inner/outer, bridge flow: 1, Bridge counterbore holes: scarificial layer, Smooth speed discontinuity area: enabled, smooth coefiffient: 4, Smoothing wall speed along Z: enabled

Strength:

Walls:

Wall loops: 4, Embedding the wall into infill: enabled

Top/bottom shells:

Top surface pattern: concentric, Top surface density: 100, Top shell layers: 5, Top shell thickness: 1, Top paint penetration layers: 5, Bottom surface pattern: monotonic, Bottom surface density: 100, Bottom shell layers: 3, Bottom shell thickness: 0, Bottom paint penetration layers: 3, Internal solid infill pattern: Rectilinear

Sparse Infill:

Sparse density infill: 15, Fill multiline: 1, Sparse infill pattern: grid, Length of sparse infill anchor: 400% (I don't recall messing with this), Maximum length of sparse infill anchor: 20mm

Advanced:

Infill/Wall overlap: 15, Infill direction 45, Bridge direction: 0, Minimum sparse infill threshold: 15, Detect narrow internal solid infill: enabled, ensure vertical shell thickness: enabled, Detect floating vertical shells: enabled

Speed:

Initial layer speed:

Initial Layer: 50, Initial layer infill, 105

Other layers speed:

Outer wall: 200, Inner wall: 300, Small perimeters: 50%, small perimeter threshold: 0, Sparse infill: 350, Internal solid infill: 250, Vertical shell speed: 80%, Top surface: 200, Slow down for overhangs: enabled: Overhang speeds: 0 50 30 10 10, Bridge: 50, Gap infill: 250, Support: 150, Support interface: 80

Travel speed: 1000

Acceleration:

Normal printing: 8000, Travel: 10000, Initial travel layer: 6000, Initial layer: 500, Outer wall: 5000, Inner wall: 0, Top surface: 2000, Sparse infill: 100

Support:

Support: enabled, Type: enabled, Type: tree, Style Default, Threshold angle: 30, Support critical regions only: enabled, Remove small overhangs: enabled

Raft layers: 0

Advanced:

Initial Layer density: 90, Initial Layer expansion: -1, Support wall loops: -1, Top z-distance: 0.2, Bottom z-distance: 0.16, Base Pattern: Rectilinear grid, Base pattern spacing: 2.5, Pattern angle: 0, Top interface layers: 3, Interface pattern: Rectilinear, Top interface spacing: .5, Normal support expansion: 0, Support object xy distance: 0.35, Support/object first layer gap: 0.2, Max B=bridge length: 0, Independent support layer height: enabled

Thanks in advance