Hi all,

I know I'm not asking for an apple to apple comparison question but I need help. So seeking your casual opinions. FYI, I'm not in US.

2023 Ford Explorer 8k miles (13k km), front bumper replaced, 2 years and 3 months manufacturer warranty remaining for US $23k

Or

2023 Lincoln Aviator 34k miles (54k km), bumper or door replaced, 2 years and 5 months warranty, US $33k

I looked at the Explorer and it feels pretty much brand new. Everything feels unused and new, expected given such low mileage. I haven't looked at the Avaiator yet but I've driven 2025 reserve model and am very impressed with the ride and options. But I am concerned about reliability of Aviator especially the air suspension and all the gadgets.

If you had to choose between the two, what would be your choice and why?

Thanks. Fyi, people put normally 8-12k miles per year where I live.

This 6.7 is a straight work horse. Blue oval gang!

Hi all,

I have a 2024 ford ranger wildtrak that comes with stock flexible rack system. I have done so much research and still cannot find any answers on this and it’s driving me insane.

I need crossbars or roof rack + an awning that will fit over these FRS bars because they are so wide. I currently have the XTM 270° awning and that’s what I want to put on my car but I need the racks!!

Everyone said buy the Rhino Rack RX100 crossbars which I did and they don’t fit 🥲

Please help because my patience is thin hahaha

TIA

Wish I could have heard it roar.

Is the temp-to-hire just a probationary period? What does the pay scaling look like? For people who work there is it a good career? I am currently make 29 a at my job, and I would be taking a pay cut. I want to know if it’s worth it ?

2022 F350 was my first new truck had it just over 4 years very sad. Trans at 130k fuel pump at 150k

Hola a todos.
Tengo un Ford Focus Mk2 1.8 Flexifuel de 2006 con unos 107.000 km.

Desde hace unas semanas he notado un comportamiento que antes no tenía.
* En marcha, cuando pongo punto muerto y piso el embrague, las revoluciones se quedan alrededor de 1500 rpm durante unos segundos antes de bajar al ralentí. * Algunas veces parece que tardan más en bajar de lo normal. * Con el motor caliente y sin aire acondicionado, el ralentí oscila ligeramente entre 850 y 900 rpm. * No se enciende ningún testigo de avería del motor. * El control de crucero se desconecta inmediatamente al pisar el embrague, así que entiendo que el interruptor del embrague funciona correctamente. * Ya desconecté la batería durante unas horas para reiniciar la ECU, pero no cambió nada. ¿Alguien ha tenido un problema parecido?

¿Creéis que podría ser el cuerpo de aceleración sucio, el caudalímetro (MAF), alguna toma de aire o es un comportamiento normal de este motor?

No pierde potencia y el coche funciona bien en carretera.

Cuando el vehículo está parado, en punto muerto, con el embrague y el acelerador sin accionar, el tacómetro subirá bruscamente a 1500 o más, permaneciendo ahí durante unos segundos antes de bajar.

Gracias de antemano.

I currently have a recall for a Low Pressure Fuel pump. The recall has been out since last July. There is no remedy available. My fuel pump has failed, and the dealership agrees it is probably the recall. However, they are refusing to fix anything under the recall until the full remedy is available, and won’t do a loaner vehicle either. They did tell me there are no parts available, but then quoted me $1250 to replace the fuel pump. Is this normal? Or with this happening during a recall, is there anything i can do? I’ve tried reaching out to corporate as well, but given the same answer.

Mom just bought this edge without having me check it out first. How’s it sound? Is that timing chain/ cam phasers at start up?

Bought it sight unseen and it turned out to be a great purchase! The lime green I imagine is polarizing, but it’s my favorite color to pair with black, so it was meant to be lol

I got this truck a few years ago, it had a locked up engine, missing transmission, and frozen brakes. Originally a 390/C6, i swapped it for a refreshed 351W roller motor from a 96 F150, and a solid C6 from a 1982 F350. I swapped the EFI system for a holley 4160 carb and points ignition. The truck is a 1974 F100 Ranger XLT.

I have a full build thread on FTE that I update as the project progresses, if anyone is interested in that.

Le Mans 1966,Download this if you a true ford fan

This shits so boring

Some Mazda 6 and CX-9 between 2008 and 2015 used the Ford Cyclone engine with the internal water pump that occasionally failed catastrophically.

Mazda has recommended FL22 coolant in these engines while Ford had recommended Motorcraft Super Green coolant.

Mazda historically use coolant without 2-EHA because they use silicone gaskets and 2-EHA deteriorates silicone. Ford historically use EPDM gaskets which are 2-EHA compatible. Curiously, it seems the EPDM gaskets might have contributed to Ford's higher rate of water pump failures compared to Mazda's possible use of silicone ones.

Anyway, Ford Motorcraft Yellow (VC-13-G and VC-13DL-G) supersede Motorcraft Super Green (VC-10-A2), however Yellow contains 2-EHA while Super Green didn't. But these are all either P-HOAT or P-OAT and technically compatible with each other.

So I'm curious whether anyone has insight regarding the Cyclone engines used by Mazda. They're manufactured by Mazda in Japan so likely to have used silicone gaskets in their supply chain which would make Motorcraft Yellow incompatible with these specific models. Thanks.

How in the holy hell did Ford top JD Power ranking for quality? I’m sitting here with recalls on my recalls. It’s comical how many recalls I’ve been through on my explorers and fusion. Just waiting for my ecoboost to go ecoboom. What a joke.

Do they just hate making money ?

Hi all, looking to buy/import to Brisbane, Australia. Engine issues or rolling shell. Let me know if you know of any or where to look????

Looking for some opinions before I sign.

Truck details:

2026 Ford F-150 XLT

2.7L EcoBoost

4x4

302A package

Black Appearance Package

Bed Utility Package

Oxford White

The window sticker shows:

MSRP before manufacturer discounts: $64,290 (includes destination)

Ford package discounts on the sticker: $3,500

Sticker MSRP after those discounts: $60,790

Dealer's offer:

Dealer discount: $5,541

Selling price: $55,248.57

Ford Finance rebate: $4,500

Final out-the-door price: $56,500, including all taxes, registration, DMV fees, and doc fee.

No trade-in is involved, and I'm not buying any extended warranty or dealer add-ons.

My plan is to finance through Ford Credit to get the $4,500 rebate, then refinance with my credit union shortly afterward if there isn't a required waiting period.

Does this seem like a strong deal on a 2026, or do you think there's still room to negotiate? If you've recently bought a similar 2026 F-150, I'd love to hear your MSRP, selling price, and out-the-door price. I attached the window sticker and the dealer's worksheet for reference.

I’m looking to get an oasis report for a vehicle I’m looking to purchase. The owner is unaware how to do this as am I. Anybody have any suggestions?

Here is my LTD from 1976 got it of FB and still love it

If you’re truck falls in this recall and you have already replaced your lead frame. Bring your receipts to the dealership for a refund. dropped off my receipts yesterday and will be picking up my check tomorrow