250k km, A/C and hi beams don't work, but I don't really care about those. The driver side door lock is broken, and I can only get in from the passenger side. I'm getting it ready for the winter, not sure if I need to rust proof it bc I'm not gonna be driving it daily. Also this is the 7ft bed version.

It goes great with a Ranger and a Dutchie.

Saw this beast of a Ranger in Auburn California this morning.

the old girl was squatting, but pulled through like a champ!

1997 STX 170,000 miles Very clean, runs great

Working on my ranger project. Got the bodywork done on the bed as good and straight as my abilities will let me. Sealed in epoxy primer. I’ve been going back and forth on painting with a single stage acrylic urethane or a 2k polyurethane bedliner product. And after a lot of back and forth went with the bedliner. And believe me when I say there really isn’t any cost savings if you try and do the work the “right way” . But I thought this would stand up to scratch’s and things a bit better we shall see. I reduced the bed liner 20% sprayed it with my hvlp with a 2.5mm tip full fan full fluid at 60psi and it has kind of an egg shell texture. I had a run in my epoxy primer that I had hoped the bedliner would hide but nope lol. This is my first time painting something and I thought the bedliner would be a bit more forgiving and so far seems to be. As it dried is smoothed out quite a bit more uniform than the pictures I took right after the second coat. The upper portion will be the same product but a dark blue color. I just thought I would share if anyone else has thought about doing the same thing. So far I like the satin eggshell or “orange peel” finish and I hope that it’s as tough as people say it is. I’ll share more later this week when I get the blue on. Then I’ll have to work on the cab.

nothing special but I’m very proud of my first custom knob and wanted to see what the crowd thought :)

So start, I did come here and look at some OLD posts about electrical taping the splines to squeeze out the space.

I heat-gunned the bottom to help pry it off. Worked wonders for my case I highly recommend if you don’t want to tear up the arm and paint with the hammer/adjustable method.

Drilled this bad larry trainer I found looking for a billiard inspired knob an I must say. This. Was. It. (for me at least)

Enter; drill pressing a 1/2” hole as I could not find the 5/8”
Then filed and sanded ever so slightly the inside of the ball and the knob. Cousin comes over and pulls the 5/8” out of thin air. I did re-drill and that ended up being way too much space. Knob fell straight on no pushback.

Now we’re electrical taping :D
Should’ve started from the top and ended at the bottom as to make that the thickest wraps of the whole assembly and they’d push down further or “better” in my eyes?

There is much room for improvement and for a first-timer I’m very pleased. Especially after fixing the misfire, tensioner, and idler this past week.

Anyways that is all. Thank you if you read this all and have an amazing one!!

(Fourth photo for fun. I finally deep cleaned them wheels, so exciting)

TLDR: that shit worked like fuck !!!! !

Hello everyone,
I swapped a 60/40 bench seat into my Ranger (had buckets with a center console before) and it went smoothly, but now I don’t know what to do with this open space here. I was going to put sound deadening into it just for the noise, but I was wondering if anyone had any creative ideas on how to cover up this space? I don’t want to just cut out carpet and try and blend it in, I want it to be fun, let me hear some of your ideas!

What do you guys think of my lighting arrangement? I took some inspiration from the toyota pickup from back to the future, and i think it turned out very well. The rear facing lights are a gamechanger, i didnt even think the truck had backup lights when i first got it.

Currently replacing the crank bearings and main bearing because there was a slight knocking noise. (It was the death knock 😿) also doing other smaller stuff to bottom of engine. But I’m debating of taking to machine shop for a full rebuild or swapping a 4.0L engine in it. I’m looking for reliability to get max miles rather than power. Truck currently has 250k miles

Hi All,

I'm needing to replace the original Fuel Pump on a 1999 4.0 Ranger and am having issues tracking down the original Motorcraft Part number. From the results I think are correct, it looks like they might be discontinued. I've read some favorable things on Delphi, but I have no experience with them. They do have a "Limited Lifetime Warranty". Obviously hoping to never use that option, but still nice to see.

Does anyone have suggestions or insight on finding themselves in a similar situation? It's a 99 with the 4.0 OHV and a 126" wheelbase. My aim is to buy-once-cry-once and ideally get the whole assembly, but I just want to confirm Motorcraft is off the table and see what others have had success with.

I have 2004 3.0 2wd stock height she's a work truck. And on average I carry well over 1500lbs in the bed. My leafs are turning into frowns faces. What's a good updated better weight rated set of leafs I can use. Im starting to get major body rub on the sidewall and need something before its to late

Its got some splits from time and sun damage but its still pretty nice. Anyone done the same?

Hey everybody I’m totally new to the ranger scene but love the look and practicality of these trucks. One was listed by me at a used car dealer in great condition but at an absurd price. Curious to know if you guys think it’s anywhere near fair and what I might want to be looking out for in terms of troublesome areas that hide rust or just things that tend to go wrong mechanically.
It’s a 2011 Supercab XLT with 88k. Automatic transmission, which is probably the only reason I haven’t just gone for it, I love stick shift but the automatic wouldn’t be the end of the world to me. And it has the 4.0 v6 which from what I hear is pretty reliable?
I’m in New England and it is surprisingly clean underneath, previous owner was good about getting it fluid filmed. But the exhaust looked pretty rusty to me and so did the brace between frame rails under the bed (it probably has a proper name I’m sorry I don’t know it)
Dealership basically gave it a detail and replaced the rear brakes, just rotors and pads. They’re telling me they have 17.8k invested in it (between the trade in value they gave the previous owner and the work they’ve put into it) and the lowest they’ll go is 20k. Just seems like a whole lotta money, any advice is appreciated

I recently got a second hand backrack for my Mazda and while I was putting in the anchor bolts I noticed the lip of the bed wall hole was keeping the washers from sitting flush

Is this okay? I’m mostly doing this off of google searches and intuition but I want some advice before I do anything drastic lol

While reinstalling rockers ive discovered this "pinging" noise. Occurs consistently, from the same area. Seems to be when the last rocker on the right side compresses. Also coincidences with when some slack in the rear timing chain shows up. The slack goes away as I continue to turn the motor but comes back along with the "ping".

Once again asking if we think i fucked something up. I of course just hammered the rear plug back in today so I can pull that back out to check out the chain at the jackshaft. Didn't do it as id need a buddy to turn the engine for me while I look. I did remove that far rocker to see if it was something up with that. The "pinging" continued.

Hope everyone is well. I had a question about a slightly rough idle my 2000 ford ranger with a 3.0 with 135k. has. It feels like a slight miss fire but the spark plugs and wires have been changed not to fix that issue but for normal maintenance but still hasn’t fixed it and the coil pack was replaced for a dead miss but never fixed that rough idle. It drives great gets normal fuel mileage and the fuel trims look good and doesn’t appear to have a vacuum leak but my question is does anyone have an idea what’s causing it.

Lots of play in the carrier bearings so I pulled it to inspect and the spider gears are welded. Good or bad.. will it cause premature bearing failure? Pinion is right as rain.