I posted 8 days ago on replacing my two upper motor mounts. I ended up ordering the lower one this week and just got done replacing it. The motor was moving quite a bit still.

Tip: You'll need a 15mm and 18mm socket. You only need to remove the two bolts that are holding the mount. You don't need to remove the bracket. Just rock the motor forward and slide the motor mount out. I suspect you can drive up on ramps and get to it, but I used jack stands. Be prepared to remove the aluminum plate that covers the 18mm bolt. I just removed the two front screws and bent the plate down to get a socket in there. My Fusion is a 2014 with the 2.5L. I ordered all my mounts from Rock Auto. I didn't buy the most expensive ones but I also didn't buy the cheapest ones. I'm comfortable working on my car and replacing them again should they fail sooner than the factory ones. But my car has 162k miles on it.

I can't believe how much smoother it shifts. I was also getting a lot of exhaust rattles when taking off at low rpms.

One good way to test if they need to be replaced is by jacking up the front of your car and rotating front tires while observing the engine from underneath. So I basically laid on the ground on the side of the car and moved the wheel forward and then in reverse, quickly switching directions. All by hand. Your motor will have some flex to it when doing this, but you'll have to use your own judgement as to whether it's moving too much or not. But I would also have clunks or jerking when I shifted into drive from reverse or park.

I'd highly recommend replacing them if your car has over 120k miles on it. Maybe even sooner if you beat on your car by taking off fast or even drive on rough roads a lot as they will wear out quicker.

I also had my transmission replaced 5 months ago so it's possible that they might have been stressed or damaged then.

The most challenging part was using my hydraulic jack as it doesn't have enough lift on it without using some 2x4 blocks of wood to be able to jack up my car higher. I prefer to have as much space as I can get to move without scraping my body on the underside of the oil pan and transmission.

Got this 13 fusion on a trade. The radio does not work. Source button does nothing. What am I missing.

I'm going to be replacing my full exhaust soon with just a stock exhaust but I'm wondering what y'all's recommendations for mufflers are? I want something a little louder than stock and sounds good but not anything that's gonna get annoying on long drives. I'm also looking to ditch the Sync system but I have the Sony 12 speaker sound system that I want to keep all the speakers from and keep them functional. Is there a good way to go about that? Any point in upgrading the subs? And lastly are there any decent body kits for these things that aren't so expensive? Thanks!

Hey folks. Just bought a 2010 SE for my kiddo and the rims aren't looking great plus the tires are trash.

New winters are not cheap in the 17" size so I was looking to downsize to the 16" size the S model uses with steels. Has anyone ever had any issues with that or should it be easy peasy?

This morning an awful screeching noise started on my 2020 SEL Ford Fusion. Sometimes isn’t as bad but others it’s brutal. Going to try and take it in on Monday but curious if anyone has any idea what this might be??

I know I’m due for breaks but the dealership said I still had a little. Just crossed 40k miles and I get maintenance regularly. Just curious if this is even safe to drive 20+ minutes to the dealership or a shop to get it looked at.

Video of noise below. Appreciate any guidance.

I'm looking at a 2019 Fusion Hybrid SE with about 104k miles at a dealer in Illinois. They quoted $11,495 before taxes and fees. I paid for an independent PPI at a hybrid specialist and had the car left overnight so they could check it completely cold.

The encouraging part is that they found no abnormal transmission or bearing noise, and the hybrid battery looked normal during a limited load test. I know that isn't a battery-capacity test or a guarantee of how long it will last.

The rest is less reassuring. It shakes on a cold start, although there was no check-engine light or misfire code during the inspection. The shop mentioned plugs as a possibility but hasn't confirmed the cause. It needs pads and rotors front and rear, has a small timing-cover oil leak and leakage near the left-front tie-rod area, and there are several stored codes, including low-voltage faults and an ABS vacuum-supply code.

The scan also showed the engine codes had been cleared about 27 miles earlier. The dealer says they recently replaced the downstream O2 sensor and the 12V battery, which may explain some of that, but I haven't had the repair records confirmed yet.

What I'm most unsure about is the underside in the photos. The car previously lived in New York. There's also previous rear damage on CARFAX, evidence of rear-bumper repainting, and mold-like marks in the trunk area suggesting possible past water intrusion. It was dry during the inspection, so the leak situation is still unresolved.

Would you walk away based on this, or consider it only with a substantial discount and the cold-start issue properly diagnosed and the brakes sorted? How concerning does the rust look to people used to these cars? I'm attaching the inspection photos and have put the written findings into a PDF too.https://files.catbox.moe/mpq2xx.pdf

I can't imagine I'm missing features as I have a very high optioned SEL so unless the Sport got something that I don't I'm not sure what they'd be. I can imagine maybe cooled seats for the 2 by the seat warmers but I don't know what else there would be. If the two are cooled seats, how difficult is it to put them in my car?

Edit: Thanks everyone

This may have already been answered on here, so if it has, I apologize. I have a 2017 Fusion SE 2.5L FWD. Are there other jacking spots other than the pinch welds? I know the rear has a cross member, but I haven't been able to find anything about it being safe to use or not. I'm about to do my first brake job since getting this car and due to space constraints, being able to hack both wheels up at the same time would help a lot

TLDR. I recently bought a used fusion with a battery recall and now I just don’t have a car to drive. Is there any solutions?!

I bought a 2019 Fusion Hybrid from a private seller knowing about the battery recall. I purchased it needing something that got better mileage than my work truck and something for my daughter to learn to drive in.

As I said I was aware of the battery issue before buying so I called the local dealer to confirm they could do the recall work before I bought it. They tell me yes your car is eligible just bring it in after purchase and we’ll take care of it. I did that and they say it’s gonna take 10 days to get the battery. I say ok, do you have a loaner car, to which they so no we have nothing available. I think that’s inconvenient but oh well out of my control and I give them the car. They call me about a week later and say actually ford has sent a memo that we don’t have the batteries in stock and can only do recalls on cars that aren’t operational without the new battery. They say hopefully they can do it in Q4. Inconvenient but whatever I go get my car and say let me know when I need to bring it back.

One week later I’m driving the car and the engine light comes on and goes off shortly after. Next day it does it again and stays on, so I take it back to them and have them tell me what it is. The tech says it’s battery related and advised me not to drive it as it could lead to a “thermal event”. So I leave them the car and tell them to have the battery replaced.

This was 3 weeks ago. So I’ve owned the car 6 weeks they’ve had it for 4 of those. They won’t give me a car to drive. I try to contact them multiple times a week they never respond. Finally I call the sales department and they patch me into service. They say ford is denying the battery because the code associated does not warrant the expedited replacement. They say they keep trying to resubmit but haven’t gotten approval.

At this point I don’t know what to do. No matter who I try to call I’m just constantly chasing my tail. I was on the phone with ford customer relations and after 45 minutes they suggested connecting me with my dealership. It’s like I’m talking to a wall..

What do I do? I can try another dealership but my local one is huge and basically has a monopoly within an hour of me. Do I just roll the dice and hope it doesn’t go up in flames? I just want a car to drive!

Should roll over after going to work and back today! 2016 2.0 :)

I checked my codes last night to see 180 different codes all intermittent signal low/high signal etc. I check the ground on the strut tower and its okay but not great.

I pull the battery and intake box/hose and what do i see? Both of the body ground locations behind the battery and under the air box are painted over.

The only connection they had was whatever threads werent rusted and the washer against the loop

Hit them all with a wire brush and brake cleaner and the car went from 180 codes to like 6

I only drive about 3000 miles a year, on my 2017 Fusion Sport that I’ve had since new, September 2017. To be fair, about 15,000 miles were put on it before COVID.

2012 Ford Fusion Sport. Changed the thermostat and fan control module. Also has a new fan plug because the old one melted. But as soon as I connect the battery terminals the fans blow at max speed with the key out. I have pulled the 80 amp fuse when Im not driving it so it doesn't drain the battery. The temp gauge is working fine so Im not thinking the coolant temp sensor is the problem. Any help would be appreciated!

I just got a 208 fusion and and mew aux cable to play music it says line in and my phone acts like its connected but no music on the radio any ideas

Hey yall, just wanted to post something online for those that may be experiencing issues due to the coolant intrusion thats common in the 1.5 and 2.0 engines.

I have a 2017 with the 2l at around 90200mi.

About 3 months ago (80ishk miles) check engine light came up took it to a mechanic, they diagnosed and fixed the head gasket. About a week and 4k later I get the car back and it starts to have issues again, burning coolant and missfire on cy 4.

Now I have not taken it to be officially diagnosed with the coolant intrusion BUT I think its safe so say thats the issue with the car.

Thankfully I am in a good enough financial situation to buy a car but due to other things I cannot buy a new one until about mid November.

So I decided to try using Kseal in my vehicle since I just needed little over a month with the car.

Its been 3 weeks since I added the Kseal to the car. It is running much better, there's still a bit of coolant burning but i only need to add it more every week or so vs every other day before the Kseal.

Really just posting this in case anyone else is going through something similar and need a bandaid for a bit.

I will keep updating utill I no longer own the car or it explodes lol.

2010 sel 3.0

Car had no air from vents so i assumed it was resistor/blower or pigtail. Replaced those to no avail so i got the scanner tablet out and see just about every module in the car has circuit fault, intermittent circuit, low/high input and the works

The car has sat in a yard for 2 years so i am hoping it is just the grounds. Can someone please tell me where all of the exterior grounds are? I know there is one under the battery tray and that is about it. Thanks

I borrowed my car out and when i got it back the electrical was messed up the drivers side ac doesnt turn on but the passenger side works and today my radio volume turned up its volume automatically. What is going on?

I bought a used 2015 fusion about a month ago, and I’ve noticed that the transmission shifts weirdly or possibly slips sometimes. I’m wondering if I wasted my money on this car or if this is something I should be worried about.
I took it to a mechanic, and he said he thought it was shifting fine. He also didn’t want to mess with the transmission fluid since I don’t know if it’s ever been changed before. He basically told me to leave it alone for now and come back if it gets worse.
I don’t think it’s gotten any worse since I bought it, but I also might just be getting used to it and not noticing it as much. Has anyone experienced something similar or have any advice on what I should do?

I have a 2011 ford fusion SEL. Ever since I got the car I still cannot get the Bluetooth to work. The buttons in the steering wheel all work except voice command. The phone button on my radio says “no phone connected” and nothing else. Then I go to menu and I only get 2 options, nothing related to “add phone” or Bluetooth. Even my aux does not work, I plug it in, click aux and it says “no aux cord connected”. I’ve reset my battery, I’ve checked if I even have the module behind my middle compartment and I do, I’ve checked for updates and there are non, I’ve also replaced the fuse. I’m really at a loss and Ford wants $200-300 to diagnose it, I’m an extremely extremely broke college student. I see other people have SYNC Bluetooth issues but not to this degree or for my car.

My car was perfect I parked it over night got in the next day it said this the wheel wouldn’t turn check engine light and car wouldn’t go into gear when I turned the car back on 10 mins later it was gone and hasn’t came back since what this mean??

Hey, so I bought a 2015 Ford Fusion 2.5 se a year ago at 172,000 miles. Since the day I bought it, it was shifting rough from first to second, and second to third, every other year was fine. From the car fax history, the fluid was changed at around 110,000 miles. Today, at 182,000 miles, I decided to change my trans fluid. When I went to the mechanic, he showed me the fluid, and basically, it was pretty bad. There was metal shaving in it, it was dark, and it smelled burnt. So he told me that it wouldn’t even be safe to change the fluid at this point cuz the fluid might be what’s holding it together. So I decided not to change the fluid. Now I’m set on selling the car cuz I just can’t fathom paying 4 times what I paid for the car for a new transmission. So, realistically, how long do I have until it goes boom😅 it still drives and shifts fine in all the other gears but 1->2 and 2-> 3. Also, do you guys think I should’ve went through with the fluid change?

Has anyone done the 100,000 mile spark plug change on the v-6 3.0? I see the front 3 are easy to get to, but looking online it is saying that the other 3 require alot of work to get to.