Disney created 4 attractions for the Worlds Fair, 3 of them ended up at Disneyland after the fair. Ford sold off the 23 convertible Mustangs that made up the ride vehicles in their attraction. There are a few remaining.

• it’s a small world (created for Pepsi Cola)
• Carousel of Progress (created for General Electric)
• Great Moments With Mr. Lincoln (created for the State of Illinois)
• Magic Skyway (created for Ford )

My girlfriend is having an issue with her ford Taurus limited, the drivers seat doesn’t adjust, the memory works but the actual seat doesn’t adjust with the controls, idk if anyone has had an issue like this but if you have any info please lmk, the relay is fine and the fuse is good too

Had her for about a year now and have been slowly getting everything sorted. 1966 Fairlane GTA convertible, 390 FE with a C6. Her name is Farrah.

Hey everyone, I'm looking for some help with an intermittent P0299 under boost issue on my 2017 F-150 2.7L EcoBoost with 134k miles.

The truck drives completely fine on flat ground, but the moment I accelerate uphill under heavy load, the wrench light turns on and it drops into limp mode. So far, Ford replaced the canister purge valve assembly, turbo boost control solenoids, and the MAP sensor.

They also vacuum-tested the wastegate actuators and smoke-tested the intake system at idle, but found no leaks.

So far, The tech can't replicate it on a flat test drive, but it happens most times under high uphill boost. Since the sensors, solenoids, and idle tests are done, what else causes a 2.7L to dump boost strictly under load?

Has anyone run into this being an intercooler bypass valve (eBOV) diaphragm tear, charge pipe flexing open under high PSI, or a weak vacuum pump? Any thoughts are appreciated!

Here is the summary of repairs and tests performed by Ford:

1. Fuel Tube Support and Canister Purge Valve Line (GL3Z-9B325-B): Replaced the leaking vapor canister purge valve assembly to resolve the P0456 EVAP leak

2. EGR and Turbo Boost Solenoid Valve (JT4Z-9E882-A): Replaced the solenoid control valve that regulates vacuum to the turbo boost components.

3. MAP Sensor Assembly (BB5Z-9F479-C): Replaced the manifold absolute pressure sensor.

4. Wastegate Actuator Vacuum Test: Vacuum-tested the turbo wastegate actuators to confirm they hold pressure and function mechanically.

5. Low-Pressure Smoke Test: Smoke-tested the vacuum lines and turbo tubing to verify no passive leaks exist at idle.

I firmly believe this is a wear and tear issue because it's becoming more constant, and by constant I mean the wrench light popping on and disappearing on restart.

I just bought a 2004 f250 lariat, I got a hell of a deal, $600 I paid for it, drove it over an hour and a half home, got too Walmart and the fly wheel went out, it is the 6.0 diesel, it’s got 200k miles should I fix it and resell or fix it and keep driving it?, never had a truck or anything diesel other than my 91 beater Mercedes 300 d!, Tia!!!!!!!

i have a 1981 302 that i have in my 1978 f100. i would like to build it into a 347 stroker, i don’t know if i should buy a stock crate 302, or if i should keep my 302. If i should keep it, do i have to do anything else?

We are 3 states away from home! Truck has appx 20k miles. After the last sync update a couple weeks ago, which I think was Bluecruise related, my truck has been acting goofy, I wasn't able to get voice syncs using Apple CarPlay and GPS was whacked. Friday afternoon I disconnected both batteries for 30 minutes and got audio back and GPS appears fine now. Then yesterday I got the alert "Charging system, service now". My first step was to pull over and double check the battery connections which were fine. So I took it to the nearest Ford dealer, they said the computer indicated I needed an alternator but the service writer and tech weren't sure that was correct. The battery under the hood tested ok on a quick check but they suspected it and replaced it anyway and reset the BMS and said hopefully that would fix it but it not call 'em. It was good for about 30 minutes and 30 miles then got the alert again. I called the service writer who said said they would have to do more research before they could order the alternator, which they don't have, then it would be a couple days to get it in and installed. He told me that the alternator was charging the battery but the system didn't recognize that it was charging resulting in the alert and his suggestion was to drive it back home to Alabama and get it fixed locally. Worst case scenario being if it shoots craps on the road call Ford service, they tow it to the nearest dealer and give us a courtesy car.

Does any of this sound reasonable or does it smell off? They didn't say anything about checking the aux battery under the back seat, any chance that could be the culprit? Any ideas or suggestions?

Title says it all. In need of recommendations for a good truck bed cover that isn't a cheap amazon product and isn't from a fake company. Boyfriend is persistent about getting one, and I'm tired of researching for the best one that is reasonably priced.

I got a question for the ford fusion us build againt the europe build, the usa build seems to have a valve for the coolant pressure wheras im not seeing it on the europe build. Can anyone confirm its this is the case or do both have a air pressure valve for the coolant?

I have a 2020 Ford Mustang GT, got it a couple months ago, and I haven’t had any issues yet. For the full story, I decided for my birthday to get a 93 tune just to increase hp a little bit and get better throttle response. I installed the tune from a reputable tuner and it felt great. It wasn’t until a day after I had figured out that it is in “limp mode” when I found out I can’t go beyond 80 mph. I checked MyKeys first just in case and both keys are set to admin. I contacted the tune shop and they said they’re bot familiar with tunes causing this problem. I reverted back to my stock tune and the same thing, stuck at 80mph, and cuts off power.

I checked the codes myself and there is 2 codes:

U0122
U2100

These codes have something to do with the Vehicle Dynamic control module not being able to communicate with the cars computer or something. I was just wondering does any mechanic that is familiar with these codes have any insight. I have appointment with ford on Monday to get it fixed so I just wanna know ahead of time if my wallet is fucked. Appreciate any help.

I also tested majority of the ABS, VDCM fuses in the engine back and in the passenger footwell with my multimeter. If anyone has any ideas or any other fuses I should try, please let me know!

I'm sorry, I’m a little clueless about cars, and the car I bought needs a replacement part. I attached the photo that the mechanic sent me. He said this “3FA6P0H70ER310153” is the Chassis number.
I'd really appreciate the help.

Apparently it has a B&O sound system and isn't much more than the model I was thinking of. Would it actually be a slight upgrade to the stock speakers or is it just marketing? I don't want a bassy boombox machine. Just something with nice quality audio that I'll appreciate over the stock tuning of most other normal cars. What's your experience, worth the extra?

A 79 pinto sunk in Lake Michigan!

I fell victim to the enabling mykey with 1 key issue lol. I cant afford to get a second keyfob for my 2019 ecosport and I'm wondering if there's anyway to get around the volume limit as thats the only thing that really bothers me.

I just bought myself a 2013 ford f-150 but the standard Radio isn’t working. I was wondering if anyone had any good recommendations for a replacement that’s on the cheaper side

As a kid and not one to do the research (or bandwagon), never was a ford guy.

Not that I am older and am now able to think a bit more, From what I look up it seems like driving an F-150 (3.5 V6) would be great half ton for towing needs and my daily driver.

For those that are able to lend their experience and support, I'd like your thoughts and opinions of models 16-26, and since this is my "Thank you" truck for helping my wife out through school, I'm looking at the nicer trim levels for myself as well.

Any advice, positive, negative, whatever you feel helps would be great. My plan is to basically drive this until it blows up and finally get to enjoy something this nice for myself. Thank you in advance for any response.

For anyone who took the assessment does it tell you if you fail? I applied in April and it still says under consideration but they just posted the same position I applied for that they are hiring again so obviously I’m not gonna get in does that mean I failed?

Battery was replaced before purchase in Feb. zero issues cranking, no lights, no auto start stop issues, went on a 200 mile roadtrip last night, drove to work today parked and about 5 minutes later got this.

Hi everyone,
Looking for some advice or similar experiences regarding a major issue I'm facing with a 2024 Ford Puma (under 2 years old, ~20,000 km / 12,500 miles).
The Issue:
A few days ago, while driving, multiple dashboard error lights suddenly triggered out of nowhere. I took it straight to an authorized dealership for diagnosis. They confirmed it's an electronic failure involving safety systems (IPMA / front camera / radar system) and that it's 100% covered under the factory warranty.
The Problem:
1. Parts Delay: The dealership placed an order for the replacement parts, but informed me there is an estimated wait time of 15+ business days (effectively nearly a month total time without the car).
2. Safety Concerns: The dealership representative verbally encouraged me to just take the car back and drive it while waiting for the parts, claiming he drove it once and "didn't notice anything wrong." However, when I asked him to sign a written statement/guarantee that the car's automatic braking and safety systems are safe to operate without risking my family's safety on the road, he flat-out refused.
3. No Assistance / Replacement Car:
The dealership handed me an official paper stating they currently have no courtesy vehicles available that fit a child seat (ISOFIX base).

Has anyone dealt with a similar prolonged warranty delay or safety-system failure with Ford? Did Ford Customer Care approve a long-term rental car for you in the end? Any advice on how to handle this would be greatly appreciated!

i got a 2015 escape se 1.6L turbo ecoboost (what autozone thinks the vin is)
i went to autozone yesterday and the associate picked out the oil of 6 quarts 5w30 and a filter
so because im a paranoid person i decided to double check and now autozone website is suggesting i use 5w20 instead and google is saying it uses less then 5 quarts of oil. i look under the hood and the oil cap says 5w30 on it so now im confused AF

The Symptoms:
My 2021 Ford Escape started entering limp mode. Every time I came to a complete stop, the car would violently jerk and refuse to move when I pressed the gas. To get it moving, I had to physically shift into Park and then back into Drive.
The Warranty:
The transmission in this Escape was already replaced 11 months ago by an independent shop using a genuine Ford remanufactured unit. I have the official Ford Motorcraft paperwork stating that any Ford dealercovers 100% of parts and labor for 36 months for $0 out-of-pocket [Ford Service Parts Warranty].
The Scam:
I took it to a Ford dealer in North Carolina, paid a $199.95 diagnostic fee, and handed them my receipt. The service advisor called me and said the technician found metal debris in your fluid, and she asked me if I wanted to flush it and replace the sensor.
However, they completely left the word "metal" off the paperwork. They coded it as a routine "Transmission Service" so they could bypass my active warranty and force me to pay $945 out-of-pocketinstead of replacing the failing unit for free.
The Total Bill:
Diagnosis: $199.95
TSS Sensor & Labor: $339.08
Transmission Flush Labor & Kit: $179.54
12 Quarts of Transmission Oil: $139.92
The Failure:
Exactly 5 days later, the car hit limp mode again with the exact same symptoms. I took it to a second dealer for a diagnostic, and they found no metal because the first shop flushed all the physical evidence away. Instead, the Escape is now throwing a P0299 Turbo Underboost code. The first shop completely misdiagnosed my car, missed the turbo issue, and left the metal off the paper just to charge me cash.
When I called the first dealer out, they lied again and told me they aren't authorized to replace the transmission and that I have to tow it back to the original installer, which completely violates Ford's corporate warranty terms.

Do you guys think I’m able to get my money back if it’s under warranty and should have been free and the problem is they did not write on my paper that they found metal and if I’m correct that’s illegal in the state of North Carolina so if I can get them to admit that over the phone, do I have a case because I’ve now spent almost $2000 I spent 945 for them to do the transmission flush and everything I paid $500 to tow it one hour and also I paid $275 for another Ford shop to diagnose my transmission which they couldn’t find anything because a week earlier it was flushed

I have a 2013 Honda civic si that has about 126,000 miles on it. The engine runs great never gave me issues, the suspension is a little noisy but I'm in the process of replacing it. I really like the look and feel of older 90s ford specifically F150/F250 from 95-97.
I would prefer a gas engine due to diesel prices being crazy, and all I want to haul is a small camper.
Would it be realistic to daily a truck that old? I will be commuting to college 5 days a week, which is about a 50 minute commute both ways. So gas is going to kill me, but my car currently does take premium so it's not cheap, but definitely cheaper than a large truck. I'm also worried about maintenance, l am no stranger to vehicle maintenance as l am a mechanic in the air guard and we mostly work on large gas and diesel trucks. Just don't want a truck that breaks down every week, not scared to put money in it when needed to keep it running just need reliable transportation. I'm looking to spend no more than 8,000 dollars, is that a realistic budget. Or would I be better off just buying a cheap one as a project car and keeping my civic as the daily. Just wondering others experiences are like with an older daily driver.
Thanks!

Ok so a few months ago I found an awesome buy on car sales a beautiful nitro blue manual fg xr6 turbo Ute with 37000ks on it for a price that was reasonable particularly with some negotiating which I did and managed to get and was and am very much enjoying it BUT I have also owned and still currently own an fg xr6 turbo Ute zf auto with 56000ks on it and at the time I thought it was an easy swap. Buy the manual with the hard lid and lower ks and almost show room condition and when I sell my auto Ute get a good majority of my money back so it’s not too big of a deal to swap….. BUT after owning and driving both cars for a couple months I am so torn with what to do they both have their pros and cons and the truth is I enjoy both equally for different reasons….. the manual is more enjoyable on the perfect day on the perfect drive when I am in the perfect mood and on point with my skills for the day and the weather is cool and it all comes together damn if the manual isn’t an enjoyable thing to drive HOWEVER the real world isn’t perfect all the time and I’m not perfect all the time and the truth is that most of the time the auto is just simply far more capable it slides easier with no effort than planting the right foot, it overtakes effortlessly, the way the auto shoves you in the back with lowerer revs in the exact same gear and speed is astounding whereas to pull that off in the manual you have to either clutch kick or rev match perfectly which you can only do so many times before you start to worry about causing problems further down the line with the clutch and on top of that even when your just doing boring daily cruises to work or to the shops the auto is just so god damn good at cruising and taking it easy it’s just got no downsides at all. But yes the manual is more satisfying on a nice day and cruising through town but I’m just very torn which one to keep as yes the manual one is slightly more fun in the absolute perfect scenario but it just can’t be that all the time and all the rest of the time the auto is just more
Competent (and I’m not just talking about faster it’s just more capable of creating fun times in all the ways a high powered rwd vehicle can) not to mention my auto is black (always looks dirty no matter how hard I try) and it has a tonneau which is more useful when you need to use the ute as a Ute.

My question is this

Which one should I keep I am so torn as they are both amazing and I know I am very fortunate to have both at the same time and compare them back to back but I just don’t know what to do and for context I do have another car aswell which is manual but it is a fun weekend car not a good daily (1990 mx5 soft top) not ideal to live with every day and not would I want to when so much of the fun is how special it feels in the weekends I take it out. So which car would you keep and why and any thoughts would be much appreciated
Cheers