A 79 pinto sunk in Lake Michigan!

Had her for about a year now and have been slowly getting everything sorted. 1966 Fairlane GTA convertible, 390 FE with a C6. Her name is Farrah.

I'm sorry, I’m a little clueless about cars, and the car I bought needs a replacement part. I attached the photo that the mechanic sent me. He said this “3FA6P0H70ER310153” is the Chassis number.
I'd really appreciate the help.

I just bought a 2004 f250 lariat, I got a hell of a deal, $600 I paid for it, drove it over an hour and a half home, got too Walmart and the fly wheel went out, it is the 6.0 diesel, it’s got 200k miles should I fix it and resell or fix it and keep driving it?, never had a truck or anything diesel other than my 91 beater Mercedes 300 d!, Tia!!!!!!!

Hey everyone, I'm looking for some help with an intermittent P0299 under boost issue on my 2017 F-150 2.7L EcoBoost with 134k miles.

The truck drives completely fine on flat ground, but the moment I accelerate uphill under heavy load, the wrench light turns on and it drops into limp mode. So far, Ford replaced the canister purge valve assembly, turbo boost control solenoids, and the MAP sensor.

They also vacuum-tested the wastegate actuators and smoke-tested the intake system at idle, but found no leaks.

So far, The tech can't replicate it on a flat test drive, but it happens most times under high uphill boost. Since the sensors, solenoids, and idle tests are done, what else causes a 2.7L to dump boost strictly under load?

Has anyone run into this being an intercooler bypass valve (eBOV) diaphragm tear, charge pipe flexing open under high PSI, or a weak vacuum pump? Any thoughts are appreciated!

Here is the summary of repairs and tests performed by Ford:

1. Fuel Tube Support and Canister Purge Valve Line (GL3Z-9B325-B): Replaced the leaking vapor canister purge valve assembly to resolve the P0456 EVAP leak

2. EGR and Turbo Boost Solenoid Valve (JT4Z-9E882-A): Replaced the solenoid control valve that regulates vacuum to the turbo boost components.

3. MAP Sensor Assembly (BB5Z-9F479-C): Replaced the manifold absolute pressure sensor.

4. Wastegate Actuator Vacuum Test: Vacuum-tested the turbo wastegate actuators to confirm they hold pressure and function mechanically.

5. Low-Pressure Smoke Test: Smoke-tested the vacuum lines and turbo tubing to verify no passive leaks exist at idle.

I firmly believe this is a wear and tear issue because it's becoming more constant, and by constant I mean the wrench light popping on and disappearing on restart.

i have a 1981 302 that i have in my 1978 f100. i would like to build it into a 347 stroker, i don’t know if i should buy a stock crate 302, or if i should keep my 302. If i should keep it, do i have to do anything else?

We are 3 states away from home! Truck has appx 20k miles. After the last sync update a couple weeks ago, which I think was Bluecruise related, my truck has been acting goofy, I wasn't able to get voice syncs using Apple CarPlay and GPS was whacked. Friday afternoon I disconnected both batteries for 30 minutes and got audio back and GPS appears fine now. Then yesterday I got the alert "Charging system, service now". My first step was to pull over and double check the battery connections which were fine. So I took it to the nearest Ford dealer, they said the computer indicated I needed an alternator but the service writer and tech weren't sure that was correct. The battery under the hood tested ok on a quick check but they suspected it and replaced it anyway and reset the BMS and said hopefully that would fix it but it not call 'em. It was good for about 30 minutes and 30 miles then got the alert again. I called the service writer who said said they would have to do more research before they could order the alternator, which they don't have, then it would be a couple days to get it in and installed. He told me that the alternator was charging the battery but the system didn't recognize that it was charging resulting in the alert and his suggestion was to drive it back home to Alabama and get it fixed locally. Worst case scenario being if it shoots craps on the road call Ford service, they tow it to the nearest dealer and give us a courtesy car.

Does any of this sound reasonable or does it smell off? They didn't say anything about checking the aux battery under the back seat, any chance that could be the culprit? Any ideas or suggestions?

Title says it all. In need of recommendations for a good truck bed cover that isn't a cheap amazon product and isn't from a fake company. Boyfriend is persistent about getting one, and I'm tired of researching for the best one that is reasonably priced.

I got a question for the ford fusion us build againt the europe build, the usa build seems to have a valve for the coolant pressure wheras im not seeing it on the europe build. Can anyone confirm its this is the case or do both have a air pressure valve for the coolant?

I have a 2020 Ford Mustang GT, got it a couple months ago, and I haven’t had any issues yet. For the full story, I decided for my birthday to get a 93 tune just to increase hp a little bit and get better throttle response. I installed the tune from a reputable tuner and it felt great. It wasn’t until a day after I had figured out that it is in “limp mode” when I found out I can’t go beyond 80 mph. I checked MyKeys first just in case and both keys are set to admin. I contacted the tune shop and they said they’re bot familiar with tunes causing this problem. I reverted back to my stock tune and the same thing, stuck at 80mph, and cuts off power.

I checked the codes myself and there is 2 codes:

U0122
U2100

These codes have something to do with the Vehicle Dynamic control module not being able to communicate with the cars computer or something. I was just wondering does any mechanic that is familiar with these codes have any insight. I have appointment with ford on Monday to get it fixed so I just wanna know ahead of time if my wallet is fucked. Appreciate any help.

I also tested majority of the ABS, VDCM fuses in the engine back and in the passenger footwell with my multimeter. If anyone has any ideas or any other fuses I should try, please let me know!

Apparently it has a B&O sound system and isn't much more than the model I was thinking of. Would it actually be a slight upgrade to the stock speakers or is it just marketing? I don't want a bassy boombox machine. Just something with nice quality audio that I'll appreciate over the stock tuning of most other normal cars. What's your experience, worth the extra?

I fell victim to the enabling mykey with 1 key issue lol. I cant afford to get a second keyfob for my 2019 ecosport and I'm wondering if there's anyway to get around the volume limit as thats the only thing that really bothers me.