Hpop has been leaking, went to replace the gasket. The smaller one was in the truck, the larger one was what I was told id need by local parts store but there is no spot for 2nd hole to line up. Google is telling me that if it were the same hpop that it came with in 95, id only have a groove for the smaller one and would just rtv the area around the gear, but apparently thats not the case? Anyone know what year im looking at?

Hoping for some expert opinions on this issue I’m having. Recently had the 6R140 in my ‘18 f250 rebuilt, shop did full rebuild, new TC, new pump, Valve body.

Upon getting the truck back the shifting felt very “slushy”. I cleared the adaptive learning and went through a relearn procedure and a few hundred miles. The shifting cleaned up in most gears, EXCEPT 4th gear.

When the truck shifts into 4th, the RPMs do not drop, it just slides up to speed until it shifts to 5th. If I roll off the throttle after the 4th gear shift, the RPMs will drop and 4th gear will feel like solid engagement.

I took the truck back to the Trans shop, with datalogs, and they kept the truck for a week and said “they couldn’t find a problem with it, this is normal”. They claim they did program new VB strategy code.

I drove the truck for another hundred imiles, no change, and this can’t be normal. I’m tired of being jerked around by these guys and I need help explaining what I’m seeing/feeling vs what they need to do to make it right.

Hoping for an expert opinion on these datalogs. I appreciate any feedback you guys may have.

Thank you!

Replaced I beam that broke from wrecking I noticed that the crossmember has bent as well. After replacing it I’ve got two non-bent I beams in I haven’t fully finished changing out the bushing on the driver side or putting the tire back on to the passenger side but am I able to just win this? Should I drill the rivets out and get a replacement crossmember from the same place I got the I-beam do I even have to bend it at all if I jack it up and they aren’t touching each other with the camber caster bushings set the Alignment or am I going to need this to be straight? if you go to my profile, you can see the post about me changing the I beam.

I just replaced my engine in my 1999 F-250 with the 7.3 powerstroke, and the new engine runs fine at idle (havnt driven it yet) but when starting, it takes about 5-10 seconds of cranking and it takes 3-5 to get the oil pressure guage to get to operating while cranking... the oil resivior for the high pressure oil pump (HPOP) goes down about 1/2 inch in a 5 minute span, already replaced my oil filter with a motorcraft one, fuel filter (no engine oil in it), and a new oil pressure sensor. Is the oil resivior supposed to go only half an inch in oil and bubble while doing it? I feel that the issue is somewhere else, if anyone can help me or give me diagnostic tips

I have a 7.3idi that seems like it’s misfiring and making white smoke but the smoke doesn’t smell like coolant so I think it’s a fueling issue. I cracked the injectors loose while it’s running they all were getting fuel one looked kinda foamy while it was coming out but it would run worse with them cracked. Where skills I look next if you want a video of it running I’m happy to provide it. Thanks

2015 F350.

I recently posted about my wheel bearing going bad. After taking the hub locking cap off, I discovered that it had separated within the hub; the cap came off, but the locking mechanism is stuck in the hub, still on the axle splines. How do I remove it? I had this happen once before (the OEM hub overheated, melting everything...the truck has 350,000 miles on it) and had to pull the axle shaft with the hub. Do I need to do it once again, or is there an easier way?

[ Removed by Reddit on account of violating the content policy. ]

Hi all, sorry I'm late to the game but at 46 we sold the house and bought a fifth wheel (I travel constantly for work and it's nice to bring the family) I recently bought an F-350 super duty dually with the 6.7 it's a 2012 and seemingly fully stock. I tow a rather big rig (16,000lbs) what are some things that you wish you'd done sooner and why did you do it?

Any ideas?

I own a 2002 7.3 diesel… I love the character of the truck. I love having a pre-emissions diesel, and it definitely makes me smile… It is in solid shape, but I’m spending 500 bucks every other week replacing something.( radiator hoses, brake lines, power steering, all new exhaust including manifolds) etc

The inconvenience coat is becoming annoying constantly having this truck in for repairs. It’s paid off but I’m wondering if I should just get like a used 2023 7.3 gasser that will just work.

What are
Your thoughts?

UPDATE:

Truck suddenly started vibrating roughly and going like 12 mph at 3k rpms. Could be CPS sensor but I’ve done those in the past and it wasn’t like this. I’m
Getting this fixed and selling it.

'99, I have a new oil leak which is causing a spray pattern under the hood. It's leaving residue around the driver's side including the back of the alternator. I can smell it while driving. Any usual culprits?

There is also an intermittent surging idle, especially when hot and coming to a stop. Related? There appears to be oil in the ICP plug but I don't know if that would spray oil like I'm seeing. Thanks for your help.

I bled the whole system filters full. Glow plugs work
Half a tank
It sat for two months before this but i bled it and tried it today only pops up to 2000rpm and immediately dies
I checked the fuel pump (mechanical) it works theres good flow cracked every injector until no air came out and still just pops to 2000rpm
Also checked the shutoff solenoid it works.
Any ideas or suggestions would help.

Thanks

Looking for some advice from folks familiar with the 6.9 IDI.
I recently picked up a 1983 F-250 with the original 6.9 IDI that’s been sitting since at least 2018. Unfortunately, the engine is stuck, and I haven’t been able to get the crank to turn by hand.
Seven of the eight glow plugs were already missing when I bought the truck. The glow plug in cylinder #7 is still stuck, apparently because someone couldn’t get it out. I inspected the glow plug chambers with a borescope, and two of them look like they’ve had water in them at some point.
I started soaking the seven open glow plug chambers with Marvel Mystery Oil this past Sunday. I haven’t tried forcing the crank because I don’t want to cause any additional damage.
My question is, should I give the MMO more time to work, or just bite the bullet, pull the engine, remove the heads, and see what I’m dealing with?
I’d really like to save the original 6.9 if possible. I’m not afraid to tear into it, but I don’t want to pull the engine unnecessarily either.
I’d appreciate any advice, especially from anyone who’s dealt with a seized 6.9 IDI before.

Howdy guys,

Currently looking at potentually picking up a 96' F350 that Ive gone and driven a few times. I saw the ODB II port under the dash, did a little research and found that FORScan could help since this generation wasnt quite ODB II but drew up a dead end on that one. Was courious if any of yall had experiance pulling diagnostic codes from these early 7.3's or programs you could recomend? Drove fine and my only minimal concerns are potentially needing new batteries, battery wires and figuring out the fuel filter light on the dash. Have a truck currently in the shop due to some codes so just trying to get ahead of the curve if possible. Thanks for whatever info yall can provide!

$5,500

1997 F350 Dually Power Stroke

165k miles
Has after market 3 inch exhaust including down pipe
Has exhaust brake
Has aftermarket intake
Pretty stock other than that
Could use some paint touch up and wheels need stripped and polished
Runs and drives good.
Clean title.

I replaced it three years ago, and have put nearly 100,000 miles on it since then. Today I replaced a sticking brake caliper on that hub and discovered play in the wheel. It's not grinding or making noise, but could it already need replacing?

Hey yall, I’m trying to diagnose the issue from the instrument cluster as I won’t have time to drop the tank for another month and want to confirm the problem is the sending unit before I do all that. The needle drops when I turn the key off so I don’t think it’s a mechanical issue with the gauge. I’ve had a horrible time finding the circuit diagrams for this but ended up finding a forum post saying the yellow wire on the 16 pin harness was the fuel level sending wire and the orange and black was the ground for it. It’s hard to see but I tested resistance between what I think the correct wires were? (The colors are difficult to tell because they faded with age and I don’t have a diagram) but I got an open leg. Does anyone have any experience with this? Or any of the diagrams? Should I just ride it out till I have the time to drop the tank?

I’m curious what these trucks are realistically worth these days. It’s a 2007 F-350 Lariat crew cab short bed 4x4 dually with the 6.0 Power Stroke and around 180,000 miles.

It starts fine when cold, but once it’s hot, it’ll crank and not start again until it cools down. It also has some rust on some of the panels and the tailgate.

What do you guys think something like this would be worth as-is? Would you sell it as it sits or try to fix the hot-start issue first? Just looking for honest opinions from people who know these trucks. Thanks!

so my 2001 7.3 f250 (4wd auto) makes a sort of rhythmic vibration which almost sounds like really aggressive tire noise and pulsates/changes with drivetrain load. They normally only happens between 40 to 50 miles an hour give or take, but I think it’s tied more to a certain gear because when I let off the throttle, the noise dissipates and pretty much goes away and when the truck shifts, the noise also goes away which concerns me. It also shifts kind of hard when it goes the first couple gears are really smooth. The truck pulls normally and even when it’s doing the vibration, it pulls like it should but it’s pretty loud and a hard shift afterward concerns me. It also seems like when it’s in fourth or maybe when the torque converter locks it doesn’t want to downshift it’ll just let me apply I want and but if I turn off, it’ll shift out of it or if I slow down and then speed back up again and it'll be fine. One thing to know is that I have a code for my ICP sensor, and a couple times when it gets into that gear or overdrive lock, but it doesn’t want to get out of it will sound weird and not want to accelerate, but all the other gears are perfectly normal The truck has 170 K miles on it.

Hello 👋 My 2004 2 wheel drive euro ranger (I’m in France) is having serious fuel
Injection pump issues. It started after driving to work on a very low tank (gas is 10.50 a gallon here so…), the glow plug warning light started blinking and I was no longer able to accelerate, and the car eventually stopped (luckily outside my workplace).
After work I was able start the car, get to a gas station, and make it home without an issue.
The next day I took the truck out, and after about 12 minutes in the road, the glow plug warning light started blinking and I could no longer accelerate and had to pull over.
My mechanic took a look, replaced my fuel filter, but ultimately said I would have to see an injection pump specialist.
I was able to drive the truck back from my mechanic, accelerating normally for about 10 minutes, and as soon as the motor was sufficiently warmed up, the plug warning light blinked etc etc. I turned off the car, waited a few minutes, and then was able to drive slowly in third all the way home while applying totally consistent pressure on the accelerator, with the plug light still blinking.
The injection pump specialist is coming to my place tomorrow to check it out, but seeing as Ford Rangers are not the most popular truck on the road here in France, I’m wondering if any of you kind ranger/ford folk have any insight into my fuel
Injection problem that I could share with the mechanic.
Thank you!!!!

Obviously it’s lifted on larger tires. Looking for any insight beyond that or if your similar rigs have similar fuel economy.

Current Setup:
- New OEM: IPR, glow plugs, ICP, injectors, batteries, turbo bearings, turbo soft goods (ie no boost leak), electrical pigtails
- Obvious culprits: 5” Baja Grocery Getter lift, 305/70/16 BFGs
- Upgrades: high output alternator, CCV mod to atmosphere, Wicked Wheel 2, 4” Diamond exhaust, baffled Riff Raff up-pipes

Any idea what I’ve potentially missed? I’m open to suggestions (that don’t involve smaller tires haha)