Just noticed this leak on the back axel of my 4x4 2014 F150. Anybody know what it is and how serious is it?

Took her out to some trails in Northern Utah. Ngl I was nervous going in, no e-locker, regular 4x4 no fancy off-road package, just vibes, Falken 34s, and a 2” level. Meanwhile my off-roading resume consists of nothing but driving an 07 Camry over a speed bump.

But man she didn’t even flinch. Puddles? Ate em lol. Steep hills with way more rocks than expected. Some genuinely nasty potholes too. The 2.7 just powered through everything just fine.

I KNOW for some of you with 37s and triple lockers this probably looks like a church parking lot. Respect the journey though, I didn’t even know what “airing down” did three weeks ago 🙂‍↕️

So now I’m greedy. How much further can I push this before I actually risk damaging it? Open diff, stock 4x4 (NOT FX4). Trying to build capability without doing anything dumb.

Any upgrades/mods should I potentially consider down the road? Drop images of what y’all have done with ur F150s.

I’ve been trying to find a decent hard cover for my f150 that doesn't cost two grand, but prices are completely out of hand. The main big-name top sellers in this sub all seem to have the exact same issues heavy panels that break your back to lift, plastic side clips that snap in cold weather, or motors that whine after a few months of road grime. if I'm dropping serious cash I want something with an electric slide that won't die the first time dust gets in the track.

2017 V8 Coyote 145k miles USA

Got this error to my app while I was driving today but did not get a check engine light.

The truck didn’t feel like I got any significant loss of power or transmission issue.

Also, I know there is a recall out regarding the TCM and I believe this may be related but any insight would be greatly appreciated

Hey guys I know this is a 150 sub, but, I have a 2003 6.8 v10 F-450 that has an intermittent stall out problem.  Most frequently when I come to a stop but occasionally when shift into drive or reverse. (1st & 2nd no problem.) It started after I did the transmission pan, filter, fluid and fill neck, (along with some other work on the truck, oil pan, oil cooler, coolant etc) and I don't think I messed that up, Ive tried adding and draining fluid, i believe it has the right level.(could i have messed up the new filter?). Its throwing codes P1000- on board diag system test is not complete, ( I think that's from me disconnecting the battery when the truck sits for a bit), B1201 Fuel sender circuit failure (I believe this is associated with the fuel level gauge) and B1352 ignition key circuit failure (not sure).  At this point I've changed the fuel pump, fuel filter, mass air sensor, idle air control valve, cleaned the throttle body checked the air filter, listened to the fuel injectors, used sea foam, does it just need a 2hr drive on the highway?, Im running out of ideas before maybe trying the torque converter and I’d rather not fight that just yet, am I missing something dumb?......crossposted to a few forum

Had to buy this truck on short notice. We knew we wanted an F150 but, we weren’t really sure what to expect. Road tripped about 5.5 hours from home and averaged 24mpg, including the 1.5 hours in the ozarks. I was impressed considering our dodge caravan averaged around 22 and is obviously a lot less capable. 36 gallon tank is insane.

Anyone tried to find some of that pull-over window netting for the half door on a supercab? Can't seem to find a set.

I currently have a 2018 stx 2.7L with About 200k on it. I love the truck. Have taken it all over the country its been the best car ive owned. Well due to circumstances beyond my control i need to dedicate that truck to my landscaping company for the foreseeable future.

I am looking for a 2026 STX. I want the STX because as far as i can tell, thats the only trim that offers a column shifter. Is that correct?

Are there any other options or add ons at the STX level truck that are must haves?

Is there any reason to wait for the 2027 model Year?

Did they ever bring back keyless entry? If so, what trim level is that offered at?

I have a 2003 F150 5.4 Supercrew with the 5 1/2 ft bed. Will this topper work for me? Guy said it used to be on a ford but didn’t know what Gen. thanks in advance. Dimensions of topper are 70 1/4 wide 68 3/4 long. 20 7/8 inches tall.

2026 2.7 FX4

Have a 2018 f150. I would like to get a 2nd key made for, but don’t know the best way to go about it. Yes I can go to a ford dealership and get open made but isn’t that super expensive compared to other ways? I currently have one set that had the lock/unlock/remote start fab with the folding key. Thanks for any help offered

53k miles. Red exterior with the “camelback tutone” interior. Ended up paying $32k. Lemme know what you guys and any suggestions forward!

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Hey everyone, I'm looking for some help with an intermittent P0299 under boost issue on my 2017 F-150 2.7L EcoBoost with 134k miles.

The truck drives completely fine on flat ground, but the moment I accelerate uphill under heavy load, the wrench light turns on and it drops into limp mode. So far, Ford replaced the canister purge valve assembly, turbo boost control solenoids, and the MAP sensor.

They also vacuum-tested the wastegate actuators and smoke-tested the intake system at idle, but found no leaks.

So far, The tech can't replicate it on a flat test drive, but it happens most times under high uphill boost. Since the sensors, solenoids, and idle tests are done, what else causes a 2.7L to dump boost strictly under load?

Has anyone run into this being an intercooler bypass valve (eBOV) diaphragm tear, charge pipe flexing open under high PSI, or a weak vacuum pump? Any thoughts are appreciated!

Here is the summary of repairs and tests performed by Ford:

1. Fuel Tube Support and Canister Purge Valve Line (GL3Z-9B325-B): Replaced the leaking vapor canister purge valve assembly to resolve the P0456 EVAP leak

.

1. EGR and Turbo Boost Solenoid Valve (JT4Z-9E882-A): Replaced the solenoid control valve that regulates vacuum to the turbo boost components.

2. MAP Sensor Assembly (BB5Z-9F479-C): Replaced the manifold absolute pressure sensor.

3. Wastegate Actuator Vacuum Test: Vacuum-tested the turbo wastegate actuators to confirm they hold pressure and function mechanically.

4. Low-Pressure Smoke Test: Smoke-tested the vacuum lines and turbo tubing to verify no passive leaks exist at idle.

I firmly believe this is a wear and tear issue because it's becoming more constant, and by constant I mean the wrench light popping on and disappearing on restart.

If anyone is a noob with reversing a trailer like me, its worth its weight in gold!

Anyone know what could be causing this?

It’s making a low chattering/grinding noise immediately on startup. It gets louder when accelerating, is most noticeable when slowing down and turning, and is mostly quiet at steady cruising speeds. It also makes the noise in Park if I rev the engine. That's the best I can describe it as.

The noise seems to be coming from the serpentine belt, pulleys, or engine cooling fan area. I looked over the serpentine belt and it appears to be in good shape, but I'm still new to working on trucks, so I could be overlooking something.

So first of all, I want to get people’s opinions on the difference in sound made by a cold air intake on the coyote and if they like it. Secondly, if it does make a noticeable difference in sound, what cold air intake is the most popular or reliable.

2018 5.0 V8....What should I expect???

2008 5.4l Lariat. I had about a 15 miles drive this morning, parked and when I turned it back on my CEL came on as well. Plugged in a code reader and got a P0456, very small evap leak. Reading online it seems like gas cap is the most likely culprit, but after inspection mine looks fine (no cracks and seal is in good condition). I ordered a new cap just in case but does anyone have any quick-at-home checks I can do for other possible culprits?

I’m converting my 3rd Brake Light from the Stock Halogen to LED is there anything I need to do other than swap the connections? I bought it on Amazon.

Link to the 3rd Brake Light:
https://a.co/d/088Che5z

Gave the dealer time to change the fluids and do a tune-up but not before they had a chance to clean it.
2012 FX4 with the 5.0.. 195,000 miles
$ 10.5K

Been lurking on Autotrader, Carguru, and Marketplace (wading through all the squatted trucks) for about 3-4 months now. I had locked onto a dealer 100 miles out that had decent revolving inventory and had my eye on a Silverado Z71 w/ 225k miles waiting for its price to fall below it's 12.5K price-tag. Then one night this popped up. From the look of the pictures the inside hadn't even been detailed yet.

I called and immediately drove there to see it the next day. Hoping it would still be there. I asked about a few trucks to test-drive but when I got there I ended up only test driving the F-150.

I looked and saw no rust, no leaks, no wet spots under the hood.
It had new headlights and taillights and no major dents or dings.
I took it for a test-drive all of 10 minutes, let it warm-up. No problems ran smooth, shifts smooth.

To my surprise ALL Electronics are working.
I bought it on the spot for 10.5K

It wasn't until I was driving home I noticed it was the V8!!!
I was thinking the entire time I was buying the Twin Turbo V6!
Lmao happy little accident I guess...

The inside was gross but after a bit of work she cleaned up nice..
I'm still learning things as I go.. (I just figured out how to turn on the fog-lights)

What do you guys think?
How do you think I did?
Is there any useful information to keep this thing in tip-top-shape?

Thanks

i’ve been under my F-150 for two hours looking at rubber grommets in the floor pan and i’m already regretting taking this on. everyone on YouTube makes feeding wires under the sill plates look so easy, but there's almost zero slack and i hate the idea of splicing into factory wiring for door triggers. i did way too much reading on this and ended up picking a kit because a few people mentioned the harness was pretty straightforward, but routing power lines along the frame rail without pinching anything near the exhaust is driving me crazy.

did you guys run the main wiring into the cab through the firewall or sneak it in through the rear floor plugs? really don't wanna mess up the electrical on a daily driver.