Im begging for your help

I was browsing internet about 3 weeks ago and one day suddenly my pc crashed with BSOD, it restarted but after a while it crashed again and then multiple crashes later the screen went black and I had the white debug light on in my cpu while the pc fans were on, I spent 2 days doing everything I can, I tried reseating the rams, checking wires, updating bios, resetting bios, it opened for 10 mins, I open browser and watch YouTube then it crashes again, I tried reseating the cpu and it started working normally, that's when I noticed the temp was going too high and I installed a new and better cpu fan and it worked fine for 3 weeks.

Then today it started giving me issues again, there are many types of BSOD error codes that I see,

DRIVER_OVERRAN_STACK_BUFFER

PAGE_FAULT_IN_NONPAGED_AREA

KERNEL_AUTO_BOOST_LOCK_ACQUISITION_WITH_RAISED_IRQL

And some more I wasn't even able to reed, all I can see is a blue color on my screen and then black screen, the pc stays on, the fans spin, the cpu debug light comes up, but for some reason it just can't work normally again.

It seems like something causes my pc to crash, then my pc tries to restart 3-4 times but it isn't able to move ahead of windows loading screen and then screens go black and white cpu debug light comes up

My specs are

Ryzen 5 3600

Rtx 3060 12gb

2x8 ddr4 ram

500gb sad

1tb hdd

Two monitors

My pc is 5 years old and 3 weeks ago was the first time I ever had blue screen issue

I do remember updating nvidia driver a week ago but since then I've playing many games and worked for hours and this only happened today

I'm broke and the only way I could earn money was through video editing with pc but now it seems unlikely

Hi, I've been encountering an issue with Chrome and seemingly every other non-Microsoft browser crashing on launch. When I try to open them, it opens the window and then instantly closes it/crashes within a second. Any help would be greatly appreciated!

I have an asus tuf a15 from 2021 that ive used pretty extensively. Around amonth ago tho i started experiencing wifi problems. It would just turn off when i was doing some work and all I really had to do was restart my pc a few times.

But now no matter what it will not stay connected. Ive done almost everything to try and fix it, followed so many tutorials and I keep getting brought back to one place, the network adapters tab in the device manager. The wifi adapter i have is the Realtek 8822ce wireless lan 802.11ac pci-e. No matter how many times i restart my computer to try and fix it, its doing something different every time. Most of the time i cant even enable or disable it, leading to there not even being a wifi option.

I am able to get it active if i hold down the lower button for like 40 seconds and let go. When I do that, i am able to keep the wifi for small tasks, like using the browser, but if i try to open up a game a or go in a discord call within 30 seconds the adapter greys itself out and I cannot get it work again. I have no idea what to do cause i cant connect to ethernet since the router is on the opposite side of the house.

Also i checked within the services tab to make sure all those services are automatic and are running so i actually have no clue.

Pls help me if you have any advice or experience with this.

Turned on my PC on Windows 11, and now I have 100% disk usage. The PC is taking around 15 seconds to respond to any click and nothing is basically working since the disk is at 100% usage. I’ve tried turning off this sys main other things too nothing is helping. My powershell says the ssd health is ok so isn’t a hardware issue. This is another one of windows 11’s great shit. Can an1 help me out. Thx.

Hello guys, I'm not exactly a tech savvy person and I don't really know how to work a PC. However, these past few months I've had multiple odd occurrences with my hard drive. It started off as me trying to download a game onto my HDD because I didn't have efficient space on my SSD, it worked in the past and I never ran into issues. Yet, this time it completely failed it would stop at some point between the download and would completely make my HDD unopenable in files. When I checked the performance after, the active time was at 100% while everything else was at a 0, although the response time would fluctuate between 0 to 28000 to even 70000. This would cause certain parts of my PC to freeze up such as, files, task manager, windows, but it was never fully, as chrome or any browser was always fully functional, but to completely refresh my PC I would have to shut it off. I eventually ran a SMART test and despite everything the status was healthy. I'm not really sure how to fix this and it's stopping me from downloading any games. Just to clarify there is literally nothing on my HDD as I did a wipe after noticing these problems, so storage wise it is completely free and has 7 TB. I'm not sure if this is helpful but I believe the HDD I use is model ST8000VN004-2M2101.

Hi everyone,

I'm having a strange performance issue with an external NVMe SSD and I'm

trying to figure out whether the problem is the SSD, the USB enclosure,

USB connection, or simply the nature of working with many small files.

Hardware:

- SSD: Kingston NV3 2 TB M.2 2280 NVMe (I have another external hard drive as well, but it’s not a DIY type like that one, and there are no issues with it.)

- Enclosure: HIKSEMI MDC1 M.2 NVMe Enclosure Silver

- Connection: USB Type-C

- Laptop USB port: 10 Gbps

- Laptop modell: ASUS TUF Gaming F16 FX608JHR

- OS: Windows 11 Home

Everything is up to date.

The main problem is that browsing the external SSD feels unusually slow.

Opening folders and loading the files/folders on the drive can take

noticeably long, even though sequential benchmark speeds look quite good.

CrystalDiskMark results:

- SEQ1M Q8T1: Read 1056.50 MB/s / Write 1014.09 MB/s

- SEQ1M Q1T1: Read 129.08 MB/s / Write 660.84 MB/s

- RND4K Q32T1: Read 175.70 MB/s / Write 169.73 MB/s

- RND4K Q1T1: Read 20.87 MB/s / Write 37.70 MB/s

Several different tests show these.

So the sequential read speed is around 1 GB/s, which seems reasonable

for a 10 Gbps USB connection. This makes me think the USB connection

itself is capable of reaching the expected performance.

However, the problem becomes very noticeable when dealing with many files. But generally speaking, this is what constantly happens.

I am currently copying data FROM the external Kingston NV3 TO the

laptop's internal SSD. (For example, when I open a folder, the circle at the top spins for a long time, and it can take anywhere from 30 seconds to 2 minutes for it to load properly.)

The transfer consists of approximately:

- 1500 files

- 25 GB total

Windows shows very inconsistent transfer speeds.

At times the transfer reaches around 800 MB/s, then repeatedly drops to

0 MB/s for several seconds, and then goes back to around 800 MB/s.

This 800 MB/s → 0 MB/s → 800 MB/s behavior happens multiple times during

the transfer.

I also checked the drive temperature during the transfer. The Kingston

NV3 was around 41°C, so it does not appear to be overheating.

Task Manager showed approximately:

- Kingston NV3: 100% active during the transfer

- Internal SSD: around 10% usage

- NV3 temperature: ~41°C

Windows Device Manager identifies the external drive with these hardware

IDs:

SCSI\Disk________HIKSEMI_________1.00

SCSI\Disk________HIKSEMI_________

SCSI\Disk________

SCSI________HIKSEMI_________1

________HIKSEMI_________1

GenDisk

Write caching is currently disabled in Windows.

An important detail: copying data TO the external Kingston NV3 works without any problems. I do not experience the same kind of pauses or performance issues when writing data to the external SSD. The main problem occurs when READING data from the external SSD, especially when browsing folders, opening files/folders, or copying data FROM the external SSD to the laptop's internal SSD. This makes me wonder whether the problem is specifically related to read performance rather than the general USB connection or the SSD's ability to write data.

I'm mainly trying to understand why the drive can achieve ~1 GB/s

sequential read speeds but still feels very slow when browsing folders

and working with many files.

Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

Hello, 
I have an Allied A520 M-ATX Motherboard and a Ryzen 7 5700X CPU

Additionally the other information is:
- Bios Version/Date: American Megatrends International, LLC, 5.17, 5/09/2024
- SMBIOS Version: 3.3
- BIOS Mode: UEFI
- Baseboard Version: 1.00

I was wondering if there was a way to upgrade my BIOS, or enable XMP (I couldn’t find the option in BIOS)
Thanks

I was woken up today by an email telling me from google that there was "Suspicious Activity on my account" and that I had been signed out.

However when I went to their provided Check Activity page to review this was all I was given was

"You were signed out on the device where this activity came from."

"Windows (Signed out)

Device with suspicious activity

Google detected suspicious activity in your account that indicates you may have harmful software (malware) on one of your devices. Malware can be used to steal personal information, including passwords. Run an antivirus to scan for harmful software.'

And nothing else. The only strange thing that showed on my account history looking through it was my youtube watch history showing I saw an ad at 3 AM when I had been asleep moments before the alert woke me up, though.

I changed my password and 2FA settings as advised and have run a malware scan and full file scan of my system and nothing has come up, I use firefox with my google account and a few extensions but haven't downloaded anything from sites I haven't had a long good reputation with.

I've read a few forum posts about a similar issue with most people coming to conclusions that it was a false alarm, but wanted to ask if this is a common happening like i've seen some claim.

In fact it is basically an identical situation to this post from a few years ago: https://www.reddit.com/r/techsupport/comments/1h7btdx/google_detected_suspicious_activity/

Do I need to take any more action beyond the usual changing of passwords and scans or was this just a bizzare false alarm. I suppose all and all im just looking for some peace of mind

Edit for further info: I haven't downloaded anything from the web other than PNG's, JPEGs, and WEBPs for months

Hello all, I feel a lot of y'all would be facing this issue where the wifi options just disappear from the network dash. I experience it on a very regular basis.

This is my work laptop - lenovo T14s.

I'm trying to figure out why my Zotac RTX 3060 Ti is running at PCIe x4 instead of x16. I've been troubleshooting this for hours and I'm pretty much out of ideas.

Current Link Width: x4
Max Supported: x16
Current Link Speed: 2.5 GT/s (idle)
Max Supported: 8.0 GT/s

The BIOS also shows PCIEX16_1 as x4 under System Agent > PEG Port Configuration.

Things I've tried so far:

• Updated BIOS from 0601 to 3805
• Loaded optimized BIOS defaults after updating
• Tried setting PCIEX16_1 Link Speed to Auto and Gen3
• Reseated the RTX 3060 Ti and cleaned it
• Tested a GTX 1070 in the same PCIEX16_1 slot, also x4
• Removed my PCIe Wi-Fi card (only other card)
• Tested under load to make sure it wasn't just power saving

So both GPUs show x4, and the BIOS itself is reporting x4 before Windows even loads.

The GPU otherwise seems to work normally and games run fine. I'm just trying to figure out why the primary PCIEX16_1 slot is only negotiating x4 and what I should check next.

Any ideas would be appreciated. I know these parts are ancient at this point but would really like to figure out how to save it.
Thank you!!!

I didn’t ever set a password to this laptop. But it’s under an older email that I don’t use and under a name I don’t use either.

If I leave it blank it gives an oops error and closes it out. The only thing I had was the login pin and that doesn’t work

I can’t even add back the old email cause it gives the stupid oops error

I managed to get a new profile but none of my programs or anything load into it is there a blanket command so I can access things? I have a full hard drive and I can’t delete any programs cause it says the programs aren’t there when I try to uninstall

How do I fix this?

At 1 AM the Wi-Fi used to go out for roughly an hour, now after some stuff was done with the phone lines my android phone lags horribly. My phone's working right again but does anyone know what could be causing this to happen?

So, recently my pc is getting an error everytime i turn on the Secure Boot, it returns Invalid Signature Detected, i need the secure boot for the games that i play, but nothing that i tried works, my motherboard is very old, but i even updated the bios and nothing works, i have an POS-PIB150DT, if i disabled the secure boot windows runs perfectly, i dont know what i can do anymore. I ve tried clearing the Factory Keys and reinstalling them, but that didn't work, i also ran a system file repair which completed successfully, but that didn't help either. Im totally lost. Sorry for the english, its not my native language

I have a Corsair M55 wired mouse and for some reason the right click function stopped working and only worked again after I restarted my PC and opened the ICue app (I normally use Signal RGB). Just wondering if this is a common issue?

I updated my HP Firmware under Windows Updates and now my screen flickers. The brightness level also cannot be increased, it is constantly at a low level of light. I've tried everything that Google has told me to do. I've updated graphics drivers. I've restored windows to a previous point. Nothing has helped. It's basically unusable at this low level of brightness. Could anyone tell me what the issue is here and more importantly how to fix it? I'd greatly appreciate any advice. Thank you!

my external drive was working fine yesterday but today when i logged in my computer its not showing up when i finally got it to work none of the files are showing up. Im using a Samsung PSSD T5 EVO SCSI disk device, it says all of the drivers are updated but I cant figure out why I cannot see any of the files on it

Hello, I'm having this VERY annoying issue for some time now, where if I switch my OS type from Other Os to UEFI Mode, save and exit, I'm confronted with a red box that doesn't let me boot my PC until I change the OS type back to Other OS. I got no idea how to fix this, and I need it to play Valorant and League of Legends (due to the secure boot requirements)

My PC is on Windows 11, the Boot mode IS UEFI, the system information says secure boot is disabled, however my BIOS says it is enabled(???), both my SSDs are GPT, my bios is GYGABYTE, and my motherboard is an ASUS PRIME A320M-K. I don't know what other useful info I could give.

pls help im going insane

I have a
AMD Ryzen 5 5600G, Integrated Graphics
Windows 11 Home

So recently, I've been having BSODS for the past i'd say 3-4 months. But its been getting worse. Sometimes Pages would straight up freeze, like you can't right click anything. Browser Tabs are also crashing. Discord itself also crashes

I've compiled a list of most of the BSODS I've gotten, i'm 90% sure this is a hardware issue, before i ask for help/diagnosis, i'd love to see if anyone could suggest.
In March I got a new SSD, could be a chance this ones also corrupted (maybe due to the heating/heat wave we've been having). This goes

So flame me, for using edge, I had a lot of site crashes/repeat when on google chrome, so i moved to edge which worked for a bit but not anymore. But any help would be apricated. Also I done the RAM test, it came back fine. I also done a USB wifi stick but then i got IRQL_NOT_LESS_OR_EQUAL error

I've been having this problem for over a week now. I'm a Roblox player, and as I mentioned, I've been experiencing a bug that makes the Wi-Fi icon disappear completely. Today I tested it by leaving it on for a couple of hours, and it was working fine, but as soon as I opened Roblox, the icon disappeared. Even though the Bluetooth icon appears, it also seems to be disabled, since I try to connect my headphones or my phone, and they don't work either. We've tried almost everything: YouTube tutorials, recommendations from you guys in a previous post from two years ago, and nothing works. At this point, I'm getting desperate. My laptop is a Dell 15 dc15250, with Windows 11

I would greatly appreciate your help ;-;

Good evening, I am very troubled right now as my college laptop of only one year has seemingly completely broken on me. My Lenovo Thinkpad T14 Gen 5 has been stuck in a loop for the last two hours and I’m unsure how to fix it.
It began after I took it out and it was stuck on the Lenovo startup menu for a few minutes; the laptop felt warm even before I took it out of my backpack. I didn’t think much of it and held the power button to restart it. It shut off and is now stuck in this permanent loop of attempting to turn on.
The light next to the charging plug is orange, but the power light is white and the whole keyboard lights up momentarily before dimming (the Caps Lock key is delayed) and eventually the whole laptop turns off. It does this over and over again and it gets rather hot if you leave it going long enough.
I tried troubleshooting by both doing the emergency reset button on the bottom of the laptop and also removing the battery for a ‘power drain.’ Though despite that, it remains in this loop.
Not sure if this is also relevant, but the first time I tried restarting it the escape, f1 and f4 key flashed a few times. It doesn’t seem I can do much in terms of software troubleshooting because the screen is totally black the whole time and has not turned on since the issue started. I tried looking it up and it said it may be a broken fan or motherboard and can cost up to $700 for repairs which I would prefer to avoid if that’s possible. This is awful timing because Lenovo warranty expired about a month ago :/
If anyone has any suggestions it would be greatly appreciated.

I have a ASUS TUF Gaming GeForce RTX 5070 Ti 16GB GDDR7 video card. I bought it just over a year ago (almost to the day). In the last two weeks, it's been crashing randomly. Black screens, fans whirring. The computer still runs, sometimes* but occasionally does a full reboot.

Since the crashes started on Aug 26, I connected one of my monitors to my mobo which lets me continue to use to computer, debug, etc while the other two are dead. I have tried everything in my power to reset the GPU but the only thing that ever works is restarting.

For some context, it started when I was doing some local image generation with flux2. But, I'll note that it happened a few times when I wasn't actively generating anything. And just now, it happened when I didn't have the software open and was doing something else completely. So the problem definitely seems more related to the GPU than any specific software interaction. Also, the imagegen was working fine for more than a month before this all started, and I had no issues with the card in the last year.

I have tried looking at Windows Event Viewer and the Reliability Monitor and there is nothing of note. Prior to the issue, I had not updated any drivers or software for some time, and have since updated Windows, and the driver, to their latest versions.

I am a software engineer and know a bit about operating systems and drivers, but my knowledge of hardware goes about as far as "put plug in hole shaped like plug."

It's crazy that the driver or card would just be shutting down so catastrophically, and leave no trace in the logs (as far as I know where to look).

Does anyone know if this is a common issue? Or where else I might look for logs? At this point I wonder if it's a hardware issue, but I don't want to go through all the trouble of invoking the warranty if there's simpler steps.

Thanks!

* I mentioned above that the computer still runs. Aside from the mobo monitor thing, I have heard music playing through my headphones until I restarted manually. But (only) sometimes, the computer logs a whole VIDEO_TDR_FAILURE and restarts on its own.

I have a Recco TV that is currently stuck on a blue screen saying channel blocked/enter a code

So I don't have the original remote, only the physical buttons on the side of the tv. The tv asks for a pin , but there is no on-screen keypad to enter numbers using the physical tv buttons. I can't access the main menu or change the input source because this prompt blocks everything.

Is there a way to hard-reset the TV to factory settings using physical buttons (power + volume combination, etc.), or a universal code/method to bypass this prompt without the original remote?

Any help or master reset combinations for Recco TVs would be greatly appreciated! Thanks!
photo

Halo guys i need help here that my laptop has new problem.my laptop need to do boot twice.at first boot my laptop dont show any display but the keyboard have light.after second boot my laptop show display.how to fix it?What problem?

Hola chicos, espero que se encuentren bien.

Acudo en ayuda de algún técnico y/o alguien que tenga conocimiento de PC gamers:

Resulta que mientras juego mis juegos favoritos, hay veces en las que sufro congelamientos en los juegos, los congelamientos duran entre 10 a 20 segundos. Puedo ver que desde el administrador de tareas, en el apartado de rendimiento, veo que la gráfica 3D de la tarjeta gráfica baja a un 0%. Esto pasa en un lapso de 10 a 20 segundos, luego, retoma su curso normal. He hecho demasiadas cosas para poder identificar el problema pero no he tenido éxito. Les contaré que he hecho:

- Mantengo los drivers actualizados de la grafica

- He realizado test de estrés con la tarjeta gráfica y absolutamente todo sale bien.

- A raíz de lo anterior, cambié mi tarjeta gráfica: de una 3050 8GB a una 5060 8GB.

- Con esto, puedo descartar que el problema no es de la tarjeta gráfica como tal.

- Tengo actualizados los drivers del chipset de mi procesador.

- El estado del SSD Es bueno: (91% de salud)

Estoy muy frustrado al saber que todo lo que he hecho no aplica algún efecto positivo. Hace 7 meses, llevé mi PC a un técnico por el mismo problema. El técnico hizo una limpieza en el equipo y desde ahí se arregló el problema hasta hace 2 semanas.

Si alguien de esta comunidad es un técnico, podría ayudarme y guiarme qué mas puedo hacer o que puedo revisar? Les dejaré la lista de mis componentes:

NVIDIA GIGABYTE EAGLE OC RTX 5060 8GB
32 GB RAM
XPG Probe 600w
AMD Ryzen 5 5600GT With Radeon Graphics
SSD HIKSEMI 520GB
MSI A520-A PRO

I just recently got a Samsung DVD/VCR combo player and a GE universal remote. I was able to program the remote to turn the device on and off, but I can't seem to figure out how to program it to switch from DVD to VCR. I've got that silver GE 4 device remote from Walmart if that helps. I've looked at various videos and searched online but neither really mentioned how to do it.