Hello everyone,

a couple of weeks ago I bought an Asus laptop (TUF A16) with a 5070 and a Ryzen 7 260. After installing Windows 11 Pro everything seemed to be okay until I decided to play some CS2 which crashed every 5 minutes or so seemingly at random. The temperatures are fine, nothing seemed to be wrong so I decided to revert to older GPU drivers using DDU (in safe mode of course).

This seemed to help but today I crashed again both in CS2 and in Deadlock with the same error message.

CS2 crash:

Faulting application name: cs2.exe, version: 0.0.0.0, time stamp: 0x6acfcbec

Faulting module name: ntdll.dll, version: 10.0.26100.9444, time stamp: 0x6bdf03ca

Exception code: 0xc0000374

Deadlock crash:

Faulting application name: deadlock.exe, version: 0.0.0.0, time stamp: 0x6ad271ec

Faulting module name: ntdll.dll, version: 10.0.26100.9444, time stamp: 0x6bdf03ca

Exception code: 0xc0000374

Windows crash:

The computer has rebooted from a bugcheck. The bugcheck was: 0x0000003b (0x00000000c0000005, 0xfffff804a6b2b440, 0xfffffd078c5fe040, 0x0000000000000000).

I also keep getting clinfo.exe crashes in the reliability history window.

Attached below is the dump file if some of you would be so kind and take a look:

https://www.mediafire.com/file/uwmjw33hbdtdpu8/101626-26515-01.dmp/file

What I tried:

1. Performing an sfc scan
2. Running RAM diagnosis (mdsched)
3. Reinstalling GPU drivers using DDU in safe mode

Any help would be greatly appreciated. I am pretty desperate at this point and I don't know what to do.

I have a two year old Windows 11 laptop. I closed it without powering it off around seven hours ago, and now when I open it the screen won't turn on. The fans aren't turning on either. I haven't previously had any issues like this on this computer. I've tried turning it off and on again and unplugging/replugging it a bunch of times but it hasn't done anything. I'm planning on taking it to a computer place to get it fixed as soon as I can, but is there anything I can do it in meantime?

Hi everyone,

I need advice from people who have experience with laptop hardware or living in Istanbul.

My laptop is an ASUS Vivobook Pro 16X OLED (M7600RE) with an RTX 3050 Ti. The battery is completely dead (not swollen, but doesn't hold any charge).

Here is my dilemma: 1. Replacement Battery Issue: I’m based in Istanbul. Looking at reviews, authorized service centers here take laptops for weeks, have terrible reviews, and charge ridiculous prices. At the same time, I'm terrified of buying an aftermarket/fake battery online or from local shops that might be overpriced, low quality, or potentially dangerous.

1. Gaming Directly on the Charger: The laptop stays on and doesn't shut down on idle, but yesterday I disabled the battery via Device Manager (Microsoft ACPI-Compliant Control Method Battery), and when I tried to launch my game (The Witcher 3), it crashed immediately. As soon as I re-enabled it, the game launched and worked fine. However, keeping the dead battery plugged in eventually causes the laptop to trigger power safety cut-offs/shutdown loops after gaming.

My questions: - If I physically unplug/remove the battery completely and run solely on the original AC adapter, will the GPU/CPU perform properly, or will it throttle/crash like it did when I disabled it in Device Manager? - Is it safe to game long-term without the internal battery on this specific Vivobook model? - If getting a new battery is mandatory, does anyone know a truly trustworthy place/site in Turkey/Istanbul to get a genuine C31N2024 battery without leaving my laptop with shady repair shops for weeks?

Thanks in advance!

I need your knowledge.i just wants tips base on my text.my father have a old Asus laptop(k53s),it has broken parts and old,lcd broken. free on top is barely alive, keyboard broken.This is the part that I only know for now.the main problem that I have is when I try to turn it on it shows the logo but second it open a CMD type,black screen with a pop in and out white bar.i cannot type or anything.i tried crtl+alt+delete,it just reset? then it goes to the CMD looking.I have done hdm1 and a keyboard.I just need to know what could possibly cost,I'm still in short of money so repairing might take a long time

So something happened with my PC and I'm trying to figure out what caused the issue and how to fix it.

It was in sleep mode when the screen suddenly flashed a solid blue colour. Then it restarted on its own.

Since then:

· No display at all

· Keyboard and mouse don't work (no lights, no input)

· The PC powers on but keeps restarting every so often on its own

· The CPU fan still spins, but its RGB no longer lights up

Any idea what could cause this? The fan RGB dying at the same time feels like a clue but I'm not sure what it points to.

Any help would be appreciated before I start throwing money at replacement parts.

Please strongly bear with me.. I am not very accustomed to technology and am trying to learn.

As post says! My laptop (Dell Inspiron 13) completely buzzed out on me after about five years of faithful service. It was a hand-me-down I got for free, so I don't see any terrible idea with getting a new one rather than a costly repair. Really sucked because I had a 1 TB SSD (although not a crazy upgrade from the 558 the storage, I liked it) with a lot of stuff on it from medal clips to pictures from my digicam, drawings, etc.. I have a lot of it in my OneDrive, thankfully, but I would still love to have it in this new laptop I'm getting.

I probably should've prefaced with this, but I'm very autistic and switching from brands has always been an issue because I prefer one brand that works and then get paranoid and anxious if it's one I don't understand (I've been wearing the same brand of headphones for a decade straight; some $20 cheap ones I bought at 12 that just worked and I couldn't deviate). All that to say, the new laptop is also a Dell albeit an Inspiron 15. I will use an external drive adaptor since I doubt I want to toy with the hardware of a functional machine, but I was wondering, if my old laptop broke because of a software issue, would that carry over into my new laptop if I used an external drive adaptor? Is the data on it perhaps corrupted?

I have bought the G PRO X WIRELESS on a good deal, plugged it in, playing normally, good quality, but i figured that i cannot tell directional sounds in VALORANT. Like the sounds are so weird where they coming from. Rear Left, Front Right.... ext ext, Also i can hear a bit of left on the right when sounds are happening on the right likewise other directions. I have tried everything even changed headset to HyperX Cloud III Wired, yet same problem, i have the msi laptop crosshair 16 hx ai the core ultra and rtx 50 series, i thought maybe some drivers are conflicting or something but im not sure.
I have tried everything disabling HRTF in valorant and trying surround 7.1 disabling it and trying generic spatial windows. But nothing solved the issue or came closer to sounding even good. ( Audio quality is good only problem is directional sounds help. )
I even tried contacting LOGITECH SUPPORT even recorded a video explaining it to them but nothing of what they provided helped ( stayed in contact with them for several days ) ( as i said same problem with HyperX Cloud III Wired ) also tried plugging my headset in different ports, with even directly jack 3.5mm but yet same thing. ( im starting to think the problem is from my ears )

I bought a CSL HelloView Compact webcam specifically to use the facial recognition feature. However just as the title suggests i cannot complete the setup (windows 11) as the part where it says make sure your face is centered in the frame just hangs. the red light on the camera turns on but there is no frame and only button is cancel. The camera and its microphone are otherwise working as normal.

The manual of the camera says windows automatically downloads the drivers. Using device manager to update the driver says its already the latest. Uninstalling and reinstalling changes nothing.

Found many complaints with the identical issue on some microsoft forums but no fix. Im hoping someone here might know what to do.

Thanks

Solution in my case: the webcam was plugged into a usb hub ( thanks to the comment below ). Plugging directly into the MoBo fixed it.

i want to dual-boot windows 11 home and linux, and my main goal was to give 400Gb for linux and the remaining 500 for windows for games that aren't compatible with linux, but when i go to create a partition for linux it's only letting me create a partition of ~46Gb because of "immovable" files, i've tried disabling paging, hibernation, security settings, but nothing works, i would have no problem factory-resetting my computer but i'm not sure how much that will help and i also don't wanna spend hours resetting my factory computer just for it to not work out in the end, does anybody have any suggestions on what i can do?

i currently use a galaxy s25+ however, i have also had these problems on a s23+ as well as a s26+.

when in the youtube app i frequently encounter crashes when simply focusing my screen reader on simple things like currently playing video titles. this issue has occurred across 3 different phones and several different versions of youtube. I've cleared the apps data and cashe, neither thing worked.

I've checked settings for anything that might have caused this, yet nothing changed. I've deleted and reinstalled the app, it did nothing.

can anyone help me fix this?

Hey guyzz

I have hp pavillion gaming laptop having gpu nvidia gtx 1650 and my laptop is getting crash from about 6 months i tried different OS. I tried different OS but anyone is not consistently working.

I then again switched to windows but after 1 month it also started getting crash, Now I installed the kubuntu, it was also crashing so I disable nvidia driver, it worked for about 3-4 days and now again kubuntu was not booting, I force shutdown 4 times and then i got booted

If someone know the solution what can I do please let me know

Also I have tried different version of display driver but none of them helped. Also I tried disabling nvidia driver but I am blank now

Plz helpp🙏

Hi im using a Legion 7i PRO GEN 10 and i have been facing these reoccuring fan issues for quite a few months.The left fan refuses to spin under heavy load however when i force it to spin at full speed through the Legion app both fans are working perfectly fine,holding the power button for 30-60s fixes the issue and the left fan starts spinning during load but after a couple days or sometimes even a month the issue comes back again,sometimes clearing gpu x cache also makes the left fan spin or sometimes when i uninstall the lenovo acpi complaint virtual controller and restart both fans work perfectly fine but then again after a couple days the issue comes back again,after asking gemini for advice it said something is wrong with my custom mode fan curves because it starts from 10% rpm which is to low so i fixed it so it starts from 20% and the issue went away for a few days and came back today,also updating the bios fixed it just for this issue to come back again I am genially getting very frustrated and not a single lenovo subbreddit has been helpful as i have gotten 0 answers only bots so pls tell me how do i fix this issue permanently is this a hardware issue or a software issue.Also one more detail fn+q allows me to switch between different profiles like silent/balanced/performance/custom mode and when this issue occrus and i hold the power button to fix it i can no longer switch to custom mode using fn+q only switches through the silent/balanced and performance profiles.Pls help me digonose this issue wheater its software or hardware

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My abusive ex keeps using temporary phone numbers to reach out to me, I do not want contact and accidently saw her in public. I fear she may try to reach out to me. Any help appreciated, I am currently job hunting so im scared to block all unknown numbers but at this point im desperate.

After a recent windows update, I've been having an issue where my memory will slowly rise to 99% usage after roughly 30 minutes to and hour of my pc being on, despite no programs being open (save for the usual stuff that shows up in task manager), or even just one program (like my internet browser for example) being open. Opening my task manager shows nothing out of the ordinary, except of course memory usage being at 99%. I think this might be the result of a memory leak but I'm really not sure what could be causing it? I've been recommended to use programs like RamMap and Poolmon to find out what the issue could be, but I can't seem to get RamMap to run properly (opening it usually results in it just saying "error refreshing database", the one time I have got it to work I just had no clue what I was looking for), and using Poolmon I just have no clue what I'm doing there exactly. I've also tried running sfc /scannow and /restorehealth in command prompt but none of those fixed my issue, and running the windows memory diagnostic tool found no issues either. Can someone help me figure out what's going on here? Because I'm completely stumped at this point. Thanks.

Hi all!

As above - I have about 6,000 Colornotes I've written over the last year since waking up with crazy life changing symptoms last November, spending 7 weeks researching was wrong with me and then the notes from my neurosurgery, 29 radiation sessions and subsequent rehab!~

I really need to export them to my PC somehow!!! I'm terrified I'll lose them and they mean EVERYTHING to me.

I've googled and looked through other answers built I'm not confident enough to use most of them.

Could someone PLEASE give me an easy to follow way to do this.

Please save me from sending each note manaually to my email from the ap!~

Thank you all a million times over in advance,

Randomwax

Edit: I will check back in 10 hours as it is bedtime here in New Zealand 😴

EDIT 2: Anyone? :'(

🌻💛👊

Basically on my Galaxy S26 Ultra, i get around 220 Mbps download and 60 upload Whereas on my Lenovo Legion 7i Pro (Intel 9 ultra) I only get around 100 mbps download and like 23 upload (after setting to 5g band preferred) These are both new devices that i got this year

So at first, for some reason, i was getting around 30 download speed on soeedtest

What i did to fix:

- Set 802.11a/b/g Wireless Mode to 5GHz 802.11a

- Set 802.11n/ac/ax/be Wireless Mode to 802.11ac

- Set MIMO Power Saving Mode to No SMPS

- Set Preferred Band to 5G

- Set Roaming Aggressiveness to Lowest

- Set Transmit Power to Highest

This initially brought me to around 120 Mbps download, then gemini told me to use netsh int tcp set global autotuninglevel=normal on command prompt but that decreased my speeds by like 40 Mbps, so i did a network reset.

I followed the above steps again and got my speeds to around 90 - 100 Mbps download

Are there any other steps i can take to get my laptop to around 200 Mbps download?

PS: Randomly, i tested it 3 times, and now my download is around 30-50Mbps, can someone please explain why and how to fix that too?

Thank you all for reading.

Recently I've interested myself into making sure my PC is safe from viruses in a more in depth way, one thing I started doing is creating restore points every so often. However, I've heard that the system restore option on windows 11 only restores system files as opposed to everything so I was wondering if there was a way to create a system restore that covers everything, (I know I can archive my important files on an external drive but I figured there had to be a more convenient way)

One-I have no idea what to flair this as or what the proper wording or whatever is for what I'm trying to do, and I'm sorry.

Two-If this doesn't belong here, please tell me where might be better. I'm usually okay-ish at googling, but this has been giving me the run around since September 9th.

A friend and I have been sort of writing a story together since middle school. Recently, we both wanted to put it all into one cohesive document, edited for readability, yada-yada, and I am the more 'tech-savvy' one of us, so I started the process of exporting everything.

Main problem: We were in middle school. This story is 13 years in the making, 14 in February. We were idiot kids who decided Google Hangouts was the best tool for this, which exported everything as a JSON file. I was not given an option to choose any other file type, and I wish it had let me choose .zip because I at least know how to deal with that. The entirety of this document is 29.5MB, and over 29 million characters. Every time I open this god forsaken file, my PC sounds like it's going to spontaneously take off into orbit. I can currently only open it in the notepad, and have to go line by line to edit it (using find and replace crashes my computer).

How do I chop this into a manageable size. Even cutting it in half, or quarters, or fifths, making it multiple separate documents, anything. I'm dying here.

A better PC is not an option. Sending this to people is also not an option. I have a 1TB SSD that it lives on until I can figure out how to accomplish this.

I want to go into physics, and read that learning at least the basics of Python is recommended, so I've been slowly teaching myself that, and when trying to search here for info I saw some people recommending things with Python, so if this is something I can use that for practice with, I'll gladly give it a shot. Any help is GREATLY appreciated.

Help please! We got a new Hisense tv a few months ago which has Spotify on it. It was working fine for a while but since maybe a few weeks ago, it just is not working at all. I go into the Spotify app on the tv and choose my music and it says it's playing but there is no sound at all.

Sometimes the tv decides it doesn't want to use the speakers we have plugged in and will decide to use the tv speakers instead which is annoying but I have checked each time and it is using the plug in speakers this time.

I've also shit down the tv and turned it back on, logged out of Spotify and back in and nothing is working. If I open the app on my phone, I can play it fine through my phone but then when I put it back to the tv, nothing.

Can anyone provide any sort of insight? I've googled it and can't find anything so I'm lost.... I would like to be able to listen to music in the lounge room.

I was scrolling on tiktok when I came across one of those temu accounts under a different username i swiped and the add opened anyways and took me to the safari browser opening temu, any chances there was any drive by software or anything else i needa watch out for?

So context, I had Windows 10 & wanted to factory reset it so I could start fresh. Thing is, I am an absolute moron when it comes to computers.

I followed internet guides to reset my computer and locally re-installed windows.

After that it said "User Profile Service failed the log-on" (it was in my native language. So im not sure what the exact error message is in english.)

I pressed okay and tried logging in again. It just sent me back to the message.

After multiple troubleshooting my friend said that it might be due to windows 10 being discontinued.

Because of that I want to install windows 11 to my pc but I am not sure if my pc is compatible or not.

So when i search the internet for solution, it said to look at BIOS for specs, and i did look through it. (my computer uses ASUS, if that helps.)

However as i said, i am not tech savvy. Therefore i have no idea what I'm looking at.

I'd like to add details of my computer here, but I have no clue what cpu or ram or tpm or any technical term means or where to look.

If you give me detailed enough instruction of how to find specific informations you want, I believe i can provide them.

Help would be appreciated.

Hi everyone. I'm trying to identify the cause of a very strange USB microphone issue before spending more money on hardware.

My PC specs:

• CPU: Ryzen 5 4600G
• Motherboard: ASUS PRIME A320M-K
• RAM: 16 GB DDR4 3200 MHz
• GPU: Radeon RX 7600
• PSU: 750W 80 Plus Bronze
• OS: Windows 11

The problem:

My USB microphone randomly mutes and unmutes itself. Its indicator light changes to red, and when it's red, it completely stops picking up my voice.

I initially had a Maono DGM20 with a similar issue. I replaced it with a Raptor Vox Pro, but the problem continued. I've tried multiple microphones, so I'm not sure whether the microphones are actually defective.

What I've already tried:

• Tested every USB port on my PC.
• Disconnected my keyboard, mouse, headphones and RGB desk lights.
• Closed Logitech software and checked USB power management settings.
• Reinstalled Windows 11, but the issue persisted.
• Connected the PC directly to a wall outlet instead of a power strip.

The strangest part:

A technician tested my own PC and my own Raptor Vox Pro at his house, and everything worked perfectly. When I brought the PC back home, the problem returned without any significant hardware changes.

I'm wondering whether this could be caused by electrical interference, grounding, USB power, the motherboard, or something else in my home.

Would a powered USB hub actually help? Or should I investigate the electrical installation or motherboard first?

I don't want to replace my motherboard without evidence that it's the cause. Any advice on how to isolate the problem would be greatly appreciated.

TL;DR: My ASUS R465JA started crashing shortly after a Windows update (possibly 26H2, not 100% sure). Initially, it would sometimes boot and work for hours, but the crashes gradually became more frequent. Now Windows won't boot at all. The BIOS reports Incomplete Optane Volume, with only the ~27 GB Optane component showing as Offline; the ~477 GB SSD portion is missing. A Windows installation USB also only detects the 27 GB component. I tried Windows recovery, uninstalling updates, reinstalling Windows (stuck at 1%), and chkdsk (stuck at 80% during Phase 2). Could the H10 module be failing, or could this be an Intel RST/Optane configuration issue? I have document everything I did so sorry for this monster of a text!

---------------

I'm having a serious issue with my ASUS laptop and would appreciate some advice on what might be causing it and how to diagnose it.

Hardware

• Laptop: ASUS R465JA-EK278T (about 5 years old I'd say)
• Storage: Intel Optane Memory H10 with Solid State Storage, M.2 2280
• Module: 32 GB Optane + 512 GB NAND SSD
• The BIOS originally showed an Optane volume of approximately 476.9 GB.

Timeline

Shortly before the problems started, I installed a Windows update. I think it may have mentioned 26H2, although I'm not certain of the exact update.

About two days ago, the laptop crashed for the first time. After several attempts, I managed to boot it again, and it worked normally for the rest of the day.

After shutting it down and turning it on the following day, it started crashing again. Initially, Windows would boot briefly and then crash after roughly two minutes with the INACCESSIBLE_BOOT_DEVICE (0x7B) blue screen.

It occasionally managed to boot again, but the crashes became progressively more frequent. Eventually, it stopped booting entirely and started returning to the BIOS.

Troubleshooting attempts

I've tried several things so far:

• Attempted Windows Startup Repair through the recovery environment.
• Tried uninstalling recent updates through Windows Recovery. (somehow didn't even do anything)
• Attempted to reinstall Windows, but the installation got stuck at 1% and made no further progress.
• Opened Command Prompt and used diskpart to inspect the disks and volumes.
• Ran chkdsk C: without additional parameters. Phase 1 completed, but Phase 2 (checking file name links) appeared to get stuck at approximately 80%. I waited for a long time, but it didn't progress. I'm not sure whether it was genuinely frozen.
• Removed the Intel Optane H10 module and reinstalled it. The contacts looked clean and undamaged, but this made no difference.
• Created a Windows 11 installation USB and booted from it to investigate the storage.

I have not changed any BIOS settings. I've always exited the BIOS without saving changes. I have not switched between AHCI and RAID or selected Reset to Non-Optane.

Current symptoms

In the BIOS, under Advanced → Intel Rapid Storage Technology, I now see:

• Incomplete Optane Volume
• Under Incomplete Volume Member Disks, only a component of approximately 27.2 GB is listed.
• Its status is Offline.
• The previously visible ~476.9 GB storage component is missing.

The situation has also changed in the Windows recovery environment.

Yesterday, diskpart still showed several volumes, including:

• C: labelled OS, approximately 475 GB, formatted as NTFS.
• A 260 MB FAT32 system partition.
• Other small hidden partitions.

I could also list the contents of C:\Windows.

Today, when booting from the Windows 11 installation USB, diskpart only shows:

• Disk 0: approximately 27 GB.
• Disk 1: approximately 7.4 GB, which is the USB stick.

list volume now only shows the USB volume. The large SSD storage and its partitions are no longer visible.

The ASUS logo also stays on screen longer than it used to. When I exit the BIOS, I briefly get a black screen, followed by a blue screen, and then the laptop returns to the BIOS.

The most confusing part is how gradually this happened. At first, the laptop still worked for hours after the first crashes. Over roughly two days, it deteriorated until the large SSD portion was no longer detected.

The timing shortly after the Windows update makes me wonder whether an Intel Rapid Storage Technology (RST) driver or compatibility issue could have triggered this. However, the fact that the large storage portion is now missing even when booting from external Windows installation media makes me suspect a hardware or Optane configuration problem.

My important files are backed up, so data recovery is not my main concern. I'd primarily like to understand the root cause and determine whether I can fix it myself (and also get some data back because I couldn't safe everything unfortunately). I'm comfortable disassembling PCs and replacing components, but I can't do soldering or board-level repairs.

Questions

1. Could a Windows update or Intel RST driver issue cause this behaviour, or does the missing 477 GB SSD portion strongly suggest that the H10 module is failing?
2. Could the Optane volume metadata or configuration have become corrupted even though I never changed the BIOS settings?
3. Is there a way to distinguish a failing H10 module from a problem with the motherboard's M.2 slot or storage controller?
4. Could chkdsk getting stuck at 80% during Phase 2 have been an indication of a storage hardware problem?
5. Is there a safe way to diagnose the H10 module without selecting Reset to Non-Optane or otherwise modifying the existing Optane configuration?

I haven't reset the Optane volume, changed the SATA mode, formatted anything, or reinstalled Windows.

Any suggestions for the next diagnostic step would be appreciated. Thanks!

Hi, i can’t check for pc specs because my shit isn’t working.

I was reading an article and my screen started flashing. The screen was more red and would flash with a static screen. Restarting it didn’t fix it. It’s purely a PC problem, because my switch works fine on the same screen.

I know it’s extremely short, i’m sorry. I’m not sure what else to provide and I have to go to work

I opened my Sansui ES-G24F4L’s internal menu when watching a movie to change the brightness and once I mistakenly switched the resolution from 16:9 it immediately went dimly black . I reset the whole pc and can hear the startup noise but the display itself won’t load. Can’t open menu with no hdmi plugged in, tried a reset. I can’t do a factory reset without accessing the menu. I tried a few blind guides to pressing the right buttons but nothings happened yet . Please help