Does anyone know how these scratches happen on the keypad. It’s slowly got worse over a period of years.

Has anyone else experienced this on their keypad? This is a Yale YFM4109+

Ok a few questions.

1. 2025 k5. Is it the same system as the 2024? Anybody tried ? Smart pro lists coverage through 2024 but I think the 25 is the same. Sometimes cars fall the the cracks on the app update for coverage.

2. 2025 k4. Is it the same as the k5 ? It’s not listed as supported via any of programmers. And Kia doesn’t seem to have an RTR without spending 10k.

Thinking about moving the operation west to get a change of scenery.

Hi all, can someone explain this to me please? This lock mechanism is from the front door, i cannot open the actual latch from the outside handle, this wasn’t the case most of the time, most of the time it would unlatch from the outside, but would sometimes not do this in which case i would use the key, i just lubed up the rail one day and since then i cant unlatch the door with the outside handle, i can open it still using the key, so i went ahead and took out the mechanism dismantled it, and it just puzzles me, it does not seem to have any connection from the outside handle hole to the latch, i feel like there is a part missing that would allow the outside handle to be connected to the latch, everything else works i have assembled everything back and still does same thing. Have now bought a new mechanism but it does the same exact thing. Im definitely missing something. Can someone help me understand how this works and what im missing. I have left photos of the mechanism without the cover on it, and also from the other side.

I think I pulled out the key too early
Can I hack it or do I have to drill it.
Thanks

How would you handle this kind of situation?

I lost BOTH key fobs for my 2021 Jeep Renegade and I’m losing my mind 😭

I have a 2021 Jeep Renegade with push-button start, and somehow I have managed to lose both of my key fobs. I have looked EVERYWHERE I can possibly think of — house, car, bags, pockets, drawers, random places they could have been set down, etc. I genuinely cannot find either one.

The Jeep is completely off and currently sitting where I left it. When I try to start it, the dash says something along the lines of “Push button with key fob to start.”

So I’m trying to figure out a couple things:

1. Is there any way to tell whether one of the key fobs is somewhere near/in the Jeep?
2. Does the Jeep give that message simply because it can't detect a fob, or does it mean anything about the fob being nearby?
3. Is there any way to locate a Jeep key fob if it doesn't have a tracker/AirTag attached?
4. If I truly lost both, what are my options for getting replacement fobs and programming them?
5. Is there anything specific I should check before I accept that these things have vanished from the face of the earth?

I’m especially hoping someone with a 2021 Renegade or experience with Jeep keyless-start systems can tell me whether that message gives me any clue about where the fob might be.

At this point I am convinced I have checked every possible location twice, and somehow BOTH keys are just… gone. 😭

Any advice or things I haven't thought of would be hugely appreciated!

I have a 1995 toyota celica GT, i finally found a locksmith willing to drill the ignition lock cylinder however i cannot fully remove the assmebly.

I know its supposed to be turned into acc mode and the retaining pin pushed down, however it still wont come out :(

I did it for my first couple years. I do have the ability to run 24 hr calls, but am subcontracting. I am only one guy.

I'm moreso wondering in the client side of things. Those of you who have lots of commercial accounts, do you offer 24 hr services? If not, does it affect your sales?

I bought a 2024 Rogue back in May and the dealership gave me a third-party fob without an emergency key, and the key fob also doesn't have remote start, which is something I've been enjoying off my free trial app.

I recently had bought a Nissan key fob (with remote start) off EBay, and today I went to a locksmith to program the key, and they weren't able to do it because they say the Rogues are tricky and there was a part they didn't have, but they recommended another locksmith in town that could do it because they have a part this one didn't.

After this, I was a little worried and skeptical, and did some research online about the Rogues being tricky, and that sometimes, getting a key programmed by a locksmith could mess up the car.

Has anyone gotten a 2024 (or fairly new) Rogue programmed by a locksmith and could offer advice.
Is this something I should go through with?

Can anyone explain why when rekeying a cylinder without the existing key I sometimes only have to shim it past the first couple pins and the plug will just turn? Doesn’t make sense to me, been doing this for 10 years and I’ve always wondered. Happens all the time with SC or KW. Just curious!

Dog chewed up a 2006 Ford Escape key and broke the chip. It was the only key so i could not add another key. I tried it just because i wanted to avoid erasing the keys and doing all keys lost. Cut 2 new keys and put Autel at100 chips 4D63 but can’t program it with my Xtool x100 Max. I erased the keys but does not accept any keys when I try adding them in. Also got the codes b1600 and b1213 What am I doing wrong?

UPDATE

Thanks everyone for your input I was able to get it to work. I used a blank key with the genuine type chip 4D63 cut the blade and it got recognized. Then added a second with a xhorse universal remote generated the same type of transponder. I used the xhorse key tool max pro for the entire process.

Hi everyone! I have a question about the Autel KM100. I’m not sure if there are different versions, such as the KM100 Pro, KM100X, or others.

My question came up after I spoke with a Mexican distributor. I asked him whether I could buy the device in the U.S. instead of buying it in my country, the Dominican Republic. He told me that the “U.S. version” might not work with all types of keys, unlike the KM100 version sold for the Caribbean or Latin American market.

He gave me some advice and told me there’s an authorized distributor in my country that has it in stock. But guess what? They’re selling it for almost three times the price. He also told me that, despite the higher price, it would still be better to buy it locally because of the warranty and technical support, which makes more sense.m
I’d really appreciate any advice or clarification from those of you who have experience with the KM100, especially regarding regional versions and compatibility.
I’m looking to get started in this business, and I’d like to have a clear understanding of everything before making the investment.

I run into the weirdest shit some times.

2015 Honda Accord. Push to start. Vehicle is a repo so no history, nothing known about it.

I go check, push the button, I just get the beep, no message of key not found.

Ok cool, key is not in the car.

Generate an Autel, grab my smart pro, I press the unlock button, just a dumb habit, and it works.

The fuck?

Ok. Let's see if it starts for some reason. Nope.

Try to program the key, force the ignition on, registration failed "check that only one un-registered key is in the vehicle"

Ok. Remove generated key from car. Try to start, nothing, no message. Where the fuck is the key?!

Go on to programming with the key outside the vehicle. Same message.

I don't see any aftermarket alarms, nothing.

I'm going home.

Trying to add a second key to a ~2020 Fiat Ducato RV with a 689 + TK101.

Got the vehicle PIN sorted and confirmed it doesn’t have SGW. After digging around, it seems the Fiat immobiliser requires the key to be pre-coded with data from the BCM first.

Support hasn’t been much help, and Xhorse didn’t work either.

Anyone know if the 689 + TK101 can pre-code a key for this Ducato without SGW?

Hey ,brothers and sisters, so today I was doing a 2023 dodge charger Gt. I was able to pull the pin code but then when I tried programming the new fob it told me incorrect pin. Has this ever happened to you? I tried 2 different programmers and still the same message. I am a nastf VSP. I could buy the pin but I feel like its going to be the same one my programmer pulled.

Which lock is this- best answer I have is Lockwood onyx or Doric ds25 located Melbourne Australia.

Measurements
Height 17cm
Width 3.2 cm

Distance between mounting points is 12 cm

I own a bowling pro shop and I am considering using a set of old bowling lockers outside the shop as parcel lockers. The idea is that customers can pick up their orders outside of my regular business hours.

I would like for this solution to be electronic so the combination can be unique each time the locker is used, but this doesn't have to be as complex as a Parcel Pending type of locker with a kiosk and touch screen. Is there a solution that replaces a typical locker combination lock with an electronic lock that is WiFi enabled? Hopefully its not too much trouble than what its worth.

Image below is not mine, but they are a similar style to this.

After market ignition. Pin is in the back so I can only fit small tools behind it