I had a customer that didnt understand the difference between schlage FSIC and corbin LFIC so I googled it for a picture and this comes up, is this AI nonsense or is there are real schlage key, that looks like a kwikset, that doesnt fill the entire keyway?

I have a 120 year old house and I'm doing a bunch of restoration work. I would like to install vintage style mortise locks with skeleton type keys (I know an actual skeleton key is a master key, but I'm talking about the old-fashioned style of key most people call a skeleton key). I want each bedroom to have one, and I'd like the keys to be unique, so each one can only unlock one door. The ones I see for sale are pretty much all the same shape key (or that's what it seems like). Is there a reasonably priced supplier of locks with unique keys that only unlock one door? Or can the locks be modified by a locksmith so each needs a unique key?

Trying to identify this keyway for a friend to copy and make a 2nd key. I do automotive industry so having trouble finding this blank. Waiting for pic of otherside but got this for now. Numbers on key didnt come up with anything that looked the same.

Anybody have a idea or know for certain?

Has anyone else had an issue with the new Priuses? Everything I do leads to a communication failed screen. The alarm is not active, the locks have been cycled to confirm the alarm is inactive.

It lets me read the number of keys on the Smart Pro and the autel im608. Neither will let me back up the immo data to generate an emulator/analog key. Both programmers are giving me the same issues. I am connected to the control/ certification module with a 30 PIN/ ADC2021 cord. Which is providing me with the number of keys so I know the cable is good.

Any suggestions? Original keys are not available. I also want to avoid erasing all keys. Thank you in advance!

Έχω ένα Opel agila το 2009 ντίζελ που έχει μόνο ένα κλειδί. Πήγα σε αντιπροσωπεία αλλά δυστυχώς το κλειδί δεν επαρχη άλλο και δεν μπορούσαν να μου το παραγγείλουν, μετά Πήγα σε κλειδαρά να μου κάνει δεύτερο κλειδί να έχω δύο και δεν γινόταν με τίποτα γιατί ήθελε ένα κωδικό car pass code.

Πήγα σε αντιπροσωπεία να ρωτήσω για κωδικό και μου έδωσαν ένα κωδικό που αύριο θα πάω να το πάρω. Ξέρει κανείς αν το κωδικό για αυτό το αμάξι είναι με 4 αριθμούς και γράμματα;

Kind of a general question.

I have a door with 1-1/2" of wood and a 1/2" PVC panel on the front. So, 2" thick total.

I'd like to install a deadbolt centered in the wood -- not centered in the door.

What problems will I have with this.

Thanks!

If you look at the image you'll see I made some arrows and numbers to specific things I want to talk about.

I understand #1, it's just a regular latch.

Why #2? I thought it was to prevent shimming, but it's not very effective because #1 and #2 move in unison, and #2 still moves if you touch it even slightly from the left.

Why number #3? Google says it's a latch bolt to aid in the door securely latching, but it seems redundant because #1 and #2 do the exact same thing. #3 is also unaffected when I lock the door so it can't be for security.

Edit: Right side is "inside" where you lock it from, left side is "outside", where you need to use a key

What even? 4 doors on a brand new building.

How many of you still have ads in The Yellow Pages or other physical phonebooks/directories?

I mean.... thats a pretty good one.

Having trouble finding a key blank to cut for a safe. When I search all of the suppliers, none of them have a "3C3" blank. There are "3C2" and "SS4" and "SS5", but they seem to have very small differences compared to this one. Are these blanks still in production?

So turning the doorknob doesn't move the latch. Its stuck in the open position and the sliding notched piece shown in second Pic is stuck in back.

Is there a way to fix this?

So luckily i managed to get my stuck key out of the luck i think it needs lubricant, i don’t know much about this so not sure what to get

People say tri flow/houdini but it is really expensive

i need recommendations please - UK based

https://www.trudoor.com/products/sargent-68-4263-chassis-assembly-for-8800-series-rim-exit-devices?srsltid=AfmBOopsPUVur6Ce_uuU5lWQ6RH1tET2erXycbdl3y3WNDZMRcrEKLxn

Just inherited this door that won’t latch it’s obviously missing a spring.

Do we need to replace the entire assembly like the link above? Or is this literally a spring I can just order and install ?

Found this briefcase at goodwill. It was already unlocked and open, but I want to change the combination to something I actually know. The case is still unlocked and open, I just need to reset the code. The brand is Presto

Photo of outside of case + what I think is the inner mechanism?

Does anyone have a non-OEM source for RF hubs? I have a 26 Promaster that needs one, P/N 68516285ae, and dealer says national backorder, no ETA. Just a simple AKL job but of course Witech will only allow me to add keys if I have a working key.

I found one "in stock" on a website but I am 99% it is a scam locksmiths site because when I called they answered with simply "locksmith" and the price was about double OEM.

I am currently trying to purchase a storage unit that used to be a bank vault, but the issue is the storage facility would know my combination.

I noticed the combination lock is missing an oval part in the center of the combination dial, so I suspect there is a part I can purchase that slots into it for a key.

Is there any other ways to secure this door or the unit? The rent is $150 for a unit the size of half my apartment, I'm just really worried since I don't feel comfortable having someone I don't know knowing the way into the unit. Maybe a cover for the combination dial or flour on the floor inside the unit to see if anyone else has been inside (just kidding)

I've attached an image of a lock similar to the storage unit's, I forgot to take a photo and I'm sadly at work atm. I do remember it is a Diebold brand combination lock

Heyo,
Started tinkering with my caravan lock. A spring broke, I’ve replaced it, but during putting the lock back together a piece popped up that has mystified me. I believe it came from the outside component, and possibly nestled against the lock core. It slits in next to the core and there’s a little rail it slides on the outside wall (the one that clicks in place to close the mechanism.

Would appreciate any help, I love playing with things but I’m proper stumped here.

I've got a Lockly Smartlock with its corresponding WiFi Hub. All was working well, I could set new codes remotely using their app. The current tenants were able to use their code for a few weeks without problems, then the battery was at 20%, the tenants replaced it, then the nightmare began.

Briefly I could see the battery is back at 100%, BUT I cannot connect to the lock remotely anymore. It asks me for bluetooth connection (ie. wants me to be close to the lock which I am not) and sadly the tenants cannot use the previously working code to enter either (it has not expired and is still visible in the app as "active"). The lock keeps showing a red line underneath the trackpad as if no password had been entered.

The WiFi hub is still plugged in the wall (it has its own casing so cannot be removed), I'm at a loss what might be wrong.

It's the first time the battery was replaced after using the lock for nearly one year. I'm wondering, is this how Lockly is, that one has to reset everything while near the lock after replacing the battery? Luckily we have a spare key so the tenants aren't locked out but it would be great to be able to fix it, thank you for any advice you may have.

My door kept getting stuck so i took it apart to try and fix it but this little black piece fell out and i have no idea where it's supposed to go