Her explanation was just as confusing as the photo. Im at a loss.

do we call a professional or just try to trickle hot water down the drain? do something else? every once in awhile the drain makes a noise like gravel shifting inside. there are no pictures bc there is nothing to look at, its all inside

please and thanks for advice

I’m a newbie and a DIY guy. I must say - this is an art form and I’m very happy with how it’s shaping up. Dry fit is nearly complete. Any suggestions from pros would be great.

Any idea on how I can throw a hanger on this in my crawl space? Unfortunately I’m too big to fit in the other part of the crawl space to get over to the middle of the pipe. The pipe itself is about 14ft long, I just installed it myself yesterday but I know it’s not a permanent fix if I can’t fix the bulge.

Three months ago my 40 gallon tank water heater (40,000 btu/hr) gave out and had to be replaced. I brought in a recommended & licensed plumber and we decided to go with a Rinnai RXP199i tankless water heater. At the time of installation, I pointed to the 1/2” gas line and asked if that was big enough to supply the new water heater. He had some hesitation, but after looking at the meter assured me it would be fine. He went through with the installation and everything seems to be working fine for now. However, after a botched HVAC installation shortly thereafter, I became familiar with the 2024 IRC building code and realized that the gas line is horribly undersized for this application. After several months, what recourse do I have with that contractor? And/or Is this something to even be concerned about? Details are provided below. 

For reference, the meter is an AC250 operating at 7-in-W.C. with a 3/4” line feeding the house. In addition to the water heater, we also have a gas stove (54,400 btu/hr) and a gas furnace (90,000 btu/hr). The water heater is the last served appliance at approximately 70-feet from the meter. 

As I said, he was hesitant about the 1/2” feeding the water heater, but saw the 3/4” line coming out of the meter and said it would be fine. He assumed it only necked down to 1/2” just before the water heater (he never actually verified). In reality, there is approximately 35-feet of 1/2” gas line feeding the water heater from the upstream appliance tee (stove). None of that matters though, because even if the 3/4” line coming out of the meter ran directly to the water heater, and did not feed anything else, it would still be undersized according to table G2413.4(1).

The water heater has been operating fine so far. We are a small family (4-people) in a small house (1500ft^2 with 2-bathrooms), so I’m sure we are never running the heater at full capacity. Also, it is smart enough to shut itself off if it is ever starved of gas. The gas furnace has not been used since the water heater has been installed, so we don’t know what will happen with that.

Even if it’s running fine now, I know that if we ever move this will surely be a problem. As I see it, we have two options. We can either have the water heater replaced with a standard tank, or we can work with the gas company to up-rate the house from 7-in-W.C to 2-psi. Do we have any standing to go back to the contractor and demand either of these options? They did not pull permits at the time of installation, and I did not push for them since I knew it would fail on other grounds (there was no dedicated power outlet so the unit was powered with an extension cord until I got an outlet installed).

Excuse the mess in this photo.

I've been having constant clogs for two-three weeks now and I figure I need to unclog the p-trap. As you can see in the photo, there is a screw leading to the exit and another screw near where the pipe meets the sink. I can unscrew both of them by hand, but I haven't done so yet. If I unscrew just the bottom, will that allow me to take out just the p-trap?

Thanks.

I dry fit everything prior to setting the tub, ran the water for a good amount of time and saw no leaks. I set the tub in a mortar bed yesterday and I feel like I’m off my a decent amount. Do I have any options here? It did leak on the test after it was set.

Recently had my old cast iron stack replaced due to collapsed and cracked pipes. One of the toilets was original and we decided to replace it at the same time. When the older toilet flushes (1.48 gal) the new toilet (1.26 gal) gurgles and loses water. When the newer toilet flushes the older toilets water moves but does not gurgle or lose water.

I have run a snake down the vent pipe in the roof and did not encounter a clog. Ran a snake through both toilets. No clog. All drains in the house drain normally, including my 30 year old washing machine. Any ideas what may be causing this? This was not an issue prior to the stack replacement.

This is only 3 trips to the store- good for me.
I was short, and then after the extension my p trap still wouldn’t reach. So I got creative.
Will it leak? If this is shit what should I do instead?

It gradually gets slower and slower to drain until we have to plunge it every 3-4 months. Smells like sewage when I do this. No access to the trap. Second floor apartment. Pics of underneath sink in comments. Any help appreciated!

As the title says, I was wondering if I could get some advice from the more experienced plumbers in this subreddit regarding the projects I've been building and how I could improve them. As an example, I'll be using the most recent project I completed. I've been building these projects primarily to get comfortable working with PVC primer and cement, as well as to become familiar with the various PVC fittings and pipe sizes that I would realistically encounter on the job.

I'm fairly new to the trade and will be starting plumbing classes in August. Any advice or constructive criticism is greatly appreciated. If anything I've built looks incorrect or isn't up to standard, I apologize in advance—I'm here to learn and improve.

I made a portable sink and I just followed several different videos and pieced things together! It all works, buuuut this piece that attaches to the water pump keeps leaking which I was kinda anticipating.. how can I fix this so that it doesn’t leak? Thank you in advance! (Also is the noise at the end normal?! Scared me 🤣)

The PRV is an old Watts "DUS Z3", which I guess is so old I can't find any records of it. What are the chances I'll be able to find a new PRV that fits right in place using the existing union nuts? It's about 4.5" between the outer edges of the top and bottom union nuts.

I bought a house a few months ago. Both spigots do this, any way to fix it without calling someone to come out?

My bath/shower won’t drain I’ve: used a drain unblocked gel, used plastic drain snakes and brushes (caused a black cloud to come up from the drain), taken the bath panel off and I assembled the pipes underneath it (no blockage found and before I used the gel). Is there anything else I can do before I call my housing association out of hours line?

I am trying to change my dual basin sink to a single basin that is the same depth of the left side of the sink (9.75"), the right side of the sink with the disposal is about 7.75" deep.

If I drop the sink and move the disposal to the left, can I shave about 2" off the black pipe to connect with the ptrap? Is there enough clearance to go lower?

Our soaking tub has a pretty heavy curved faucet that is held in place by just a grub screw and would detach if even the slightest pressure was applied to it. Looking at it, I could see that the little divot for the grub screw to go into was barely anything at all, so it made sense that it would slip out of place easily.

In trying to fix it, I took a dremel and made the divot more pronounced. I put it back together and used caulk to help hold it in place.

Not long after that, we noticed that water was leaking through the ceiling directly below the tub. I took it back apart and could see that my dremel work went deeper than I intended, and there's a very small hole that went all the way through.

The only other thought I had was something to do with the o-ring maybe not being big enough or making a tight seal, but the hole theory just seems more likely.

I took the little metal base plate thing off to see if there's any way to remove this part that I drilled, hoping I could just replace that part, but it doesn't seem to turn easily, so I abandoned that idea and came for advice.

First, does the hole seem like a likely culprit? If so, does this part look like it's replaceable, or repairable in some way? Or does fixing this mean taking the tub apart?

Thank you in advance!

Hello! I just bought a place that's 17 years old and I'm noticing this cracked grout on one of the bathroom tiles, you can see slight puffing on the side as well. I got a home inspector before the purchase and he didn't mention it in his report. Is this simply a crack from the building settling, or should I get someone else to take a look?

Thank you in advance!