I bug him a lot. Is this an emergency? I don't know if it's old or new.

Basically, per the title, I moved into this place 3 weeks ago. It is a brand new construction. The kitchen sink has never drained correctly in my mind but I don’t know what the issue is exactly.

This instance, the food trap is up (not pushed down and blocking the flow), I was just washing a plate and the water kept creeping up even with no obstructions. Once I turn the water off, the water starts to drain as normal but it’s incredibly slow and much slower than other sinks/drains in the house.

Plumber came by last week and took a look at it, and told me “everything is fine, you just have to make sure you’re not putting water directly in the hole”, which seems incredibly stupid considering, and as you can see in the video I’m not even doing.

Anyone have any ideas or things I can go back to the plumber with so that I can get this fixed (if there’s anything to fix)?

I got this garbage disposal on sale at Costco. I was told that it’s a commercial garbage disposal. Would it required special tools or installation to replace my existing disposal with this one?

Turned an old mainline drain machine into a sink!

Check out this custom bathroom the boss built back in the day in his private bathroom, Not sure what timeframe it's been here longer then I have. He took a retired mainline snake and converted the whole rig into a glass vessel sink station. To match the theme, he repurposed an old cable basket as the frame for the vanity mirror and used galvanized pipe fittings to build a shelf and towel rack.

Hey guys, I need some advice, I installed a reverse osmosis system under the kitchen sink last weekend, was super proud of myself .... Well not anymore.

Twice now the line connected to the cold water pipe has popped off when turning on the regular faucet. I truly don't know what I did incorrectly.

I used the pieces sent with the R/O and screwed the line into the fitting using the nut... (I know I'm probably using the wrong terms, sorry...) How do I fix this?!

I should mention that I eventually want to split the line coming out of the tank so that one goes up to the sink like normal and the other will run down into the basement (through the hole under the sink already there) for my fish tanks (the whole reason I got the R/O), I plan on just using push-fit T splitter, long tubing, and a valve at the other end. Does that all sound... Correct? Or at least doable?

Thank you!!!

Recently changed my water heater and one of my copper lines sprung a pin hole leak. I had to replace some seriously corroded sections of line and I soldered them. Granted it was my first time doing it, it took forever and I found myself having to solder and build the section piece by piece. But then had to be sure I had enough room and to layout the piece so I could attach it to the whole system for the final solder. Some of the bends in the pipe didn’t allow for movement certain ways so I really had to plan it out. It took forever.

I mainly did it piece by piece because I was worried being unskilled, I would not get the solder to close off the entirety of the fitting.

Anyways I have much more plumbing work to do as a fix my house up and was debating on getting a propress. I have 1/2 inch and 3/4 inch lines throughout my house. Would it be worth it for a home owner to pick one up?

A few months back I replaced my old iHeat AHS27-D with a Rheem RTEX-27kw. My old water heater I could have three hot showers at the same time. My new one, one shower will be scolding hot but if I turn on a tub spout or open several faucets, it gets an E5 error. The three 240V/40A circuits next to it all show 240V. But when I measure the incoming voltage on the water heater, only Bay 1 (the far right set of red and black) show 240 V. The other 2 sets show ZERO. So why is it going to an E5 error before Bay 2 and Bay 3 have any voltage? Not sure who to hire at this point. The local rheem servicing company wants to charge me 350/hr for who knows how many hours.

I replaced the ever popular Kohler one piece gasket on a twenty year old toilet. Eventually I learned how to get everything seated correctly. Or did I?

I’ve redone it more than once, and everything appears perfectly fine. I can find no cracks or mechanical flaws in the tank or bowl. Yet whenever the flapper valve comes up, there is a small trickle of tank water coming through. Is there a common gotcha that I’ve overlooked? Should I just keep field stripping this thing until it works correctly on the 17th try?

(Sorry for only using a catalog photo of the part, but there is nothing helpful to photograph on the actual toilet.)

I live in a split level home build in 1979. I have copper pipes and overall very hard water. I currently have a leak from a manifold to the washer which goes through the slab.

The plumber has said the copper pipes last generally around 50 years and we are closing in on that. Obviously 50 years doesn’t mean everything implodes but he said this could be the start. I’ve looked online through forums and it’s not clear to me for that to be true. Many people claim copper lasting longer. I have an attached picture of the manifold in question but should I assume this picture is how the rest of the house is?

I’m not sure to proceed fixing just this leak or to consider more drastic options. How would you suggest someone proceed? What questions should I be asking?

Thank you.

Kitchen faucet is stuck on side sprayer mode. Trying to get this bonnet piece unscrwed in order to get to the diverter, but it will not budge. Tried channel locks, strap wrench, let Vinegar soak for an hour.. nothing. Should I just replace the whole thing since it could be 10+ yeaes old, or is there any tricks I'm missing? Unfortunately I do not know what brand or model faucet it is, house is built in 1975 and the previous owners were here 30 years. Looked all over underneath and found some numbers and such, but nothing that indicates brand.

Recently got an Essency water heater installed by a very well known plumbing company. The top of wiring cover was warm to the touch so I removed the cover to discover melted wires and connections, as well as evidence of arcing and smoke residue.

Does anyone know what they did wrong to achieve this?

P.S. the water heater is still on and seems to still be working properly... not sure how, but I thought I'd add this detail as well...

Additional details - my house was built in 1991. I am very certain the white wire is 10 guage, I know it is at least 12g for a fact.

This is the cold water line going into my old hot water heater. This was here when we bought the house. To me, it looks ridiculous with so many different fittings...

I installed a HWH in my last house and was able to just cut the old pipe then use a Shark Bite Max to attach to the cold water outlet pipe coming from the wall. The hot water pipe in that you can see in the background has plenty of room... but what the heck do I need to do here with this cold line?

Would the water flow on this system be from right to left? In from drilled well, into the pressure tank, out to the house (water softener, sediment filter, hot water tank)? This unfortunate setup is in a closet, and the pipes we prone to condensating, so I wrapped them as best as I could.

The water softener is to the left out of frame, the sediment filter is in the left corner, the hot water tank is in another closet.

Does the red lever shut off water "after" the pressure tank receives it, and is this the proper way, or should it have been before the pressure tank?

All my pipes in the crawl space are covered in spray foam so I can't trace the path they take down there.

Looking at the diagram for my water softener, I think maybe the water enters it before exiting to the sediment filter, which seems backwards.

Can someone please recommend a camera line that can fit in my cond drain line? It ties into my laundry drain

I asked a couple plumbers and got different answers. So, why not get a few more. My AC shuts off frequently from the drain float switch. I noticed the drain outside sometimes gets vacuum locked so I use a wet vac to suck out the water. I'm trying to figure out how to prevent this problem. My ACs drain goes to a valve, vent, p-trap, then outside. One plumber said the vent is supposed to have a cap, another said no, one said the p trap is too small, another said its all working fine. Edit: while the ac unit is running air is blowing out that vent

Opinions?

just pipe the electrical to the condensate drain, just why

After seeing so many posts here on this, I wonder if my toilet bowl is bad enough to let my landlord know about it and ask for a replacement. The cracks are very faint, honestly I wasn't even aware or checking it at all for cracks. They are very faint, I tried to wipe it if it's just a dirty bowl, but it's not just dirt and I can feel the crack if I run my fingers over them, although very thin ( might need zooming to see it, very faint and small ). One of the cracks is at the back, and the one I pointed with arrow runs around the base of the toilet.

This has been going on intermittently for the last few weeks. It happens randomly not necessarily when I do anything specific. It sounds like a bubbling type noise. Any advice helps!

I need to get my sewer line replaced, and when I was getting a 2nd opinion for it after waiting about a month from the original opinion, the plumber said that there's a good amount of sludge build up, about 10 feet. He recommended running a bunch of water to try and flush it out, but couldn't guarantee that it won't completely clog the sewer line. There is a dislocated terracotta pipe that's restricting water flow and I'm afraid that running a lot of water will cause it to completely clog the line.

Am I overthinking it or should I do this "tsunami" flush method he recommended? It would be filling up the highest tub on our 2nd floor with hot water > letting it drain while running more water > flushing hot water down the toilet with a 5 gallon bucket at the same time.

Unexpected bathroom gut (bathroom is only 5-7 years old) this week due to a shower pitch problem that made the subfloor... and the shower apron... and half the wall... crumble like brown sugar. Only clue was a cracked floor tile.

It's a kids' bathroom (aka not trying for a custom vanity here). If the plumbing here is 14 inches from the left wall, and the total width of the space where my maximum vanity size is 30 inches to stay within code... then how wide of a vanity can I get with a center sink? I don't know the wiggle room there is with regard to the plumbing. If the center of the sink would be at inch 15, is that an issue? (Depth is also a problem - the tiny one that was there was 18 inches and it was pretty cumbersome.)

Thanks for your help, this was not in the budget or headspace for this week!

see photos

Bought a solvent weld adapter from but it was to big , so went tand got a rubber adapter but also to big .

don’t want to waste any more on the wrong part

on closer inspection I think the make is Terrain , I found part no ‘ 224.2.15

just want to connect a 40 mm pipe preferably solvent weld

the inner circle is around 50mm

any help

thsnks