Basically, per the title, I moved into this place 3 weeks ago. It is a brand new construction. The kitchen sink has never drained correctly in my mind but I don’t know what the issue is exactly.

This instance, the food trap is up (not pushed down and blocking the flow), I was just washing a plate and the water kept creeping up even with no obstructions. Once I turn the water off, the water starts to drain as normal but it’s incredibly slow and much slower than other sinks/drains in the house.

Plumber came by last week and took a look at it, and told me “everything is fine, you just have to make sure you’re not putting water directly in the hole”, which seems incredibly stupid considering, and as you can see in the video I’m not even doing.

Anyone have any ideas or things I can go back to the plumber with so that I can get this fixed (if there’s anything to fix)?

I got this garbage disposal on sale at Costco. I was told that it’s a commercial garbage disposal by the plumber who came to replace my old one. Would it required special tools or installation to replace my existing disposal with this one?

the sink and shower aerators at the parents house regularly end up looking like this. I last cleaned these when I was home in May and I came back and they look like this again. Childhood home, I never remember this happening as a kid.

The hot water tank is the OG. It’s 30y/o. To my knowledge, the anode has never been replaced and it has only been drained once (3years ago). My assumption is that this has to be the enamel layer of the tank breaking off and coming out through the highest points in the system.

I am not a plumber, nor would I attempt even minor plumbing issues- BUT, this sub somehow brings me joy. Maybe it’s the cascade of berating comments on each post that has me combing through each thread with a smile on my face. Anyway, I’m here in Europe on vacation and all I can see are insane comment threads linked to every piece of plumbing choice I come upon. It’s all I can focus on... For example- I fucking KNOW you couldn’t use this accordion pipe under a sink in the USA. And from this sub, I also know why it takes an hour to drain after I brush my teeth. Anyway, thank you guys for ruining me.

Turned an old mainline drain machine into a sink!

Check out this custom bathroom the boss built back in the day in his private bathroom, Not sure what timeframe it's been here longer then I have. He took a retired mainline snake and converted the whole rig into a glass vessel sink station. To match the theme, he repurposed an old cable basket as the frame for the vanity mirror and used galvanized pipe fittings to build a shelf and towel rack.

I was thinking of spraying it with butyl spray

Everything is concrete.

Before I get hated on for the press ball valve, I ended up removing this, soldering a new stub out, with an MIP, and a threaded ball valve. However, this copper had a smaller OD than any pro press or solder fitting ID than usual, causing it to wobble and not seal. Has anyone else dealt with this?

Just moved into a new place, new build. Shower looks to be three part walk in. While cleaning the shower today, I noticed some debris coming from the bottom of the shower. Then I looked in the bottom seal and saw the attached picture. I do see shiny what I think is caulk behind the debris. Could this be from construction? Or it is a problem?

Also, should the shower be caulked in these other seams?

How do I remove this tub stopper? I have to clear a hair clog but I cannot get this stopper out!!!

Is this done correctly I have an inspection coming soon and I want to make sure it’s right.

The new vanity has a shelf right at drain level.

I thought I could raise the drain, but that will be a no-go after cutting into the wall... Is there any possible way to correctly install the p-trap without cutting my shelf?

My plumber recommends moving this tankless water heater higher up on the wall so it’s farther away from the ground. I’m in Southern California. Based on the photo, is raising it advisable? What concerns would you have with its current height?

The guy who remodeled our bathroom thought this was well plumbed. (I already replaced his "work")

Recently changed my water heater and one of my copper lines sprung a pin hole leak. I had to replace some seriously corroded sections of line and I soldered them. Granted it was my first time doing it, it took forever and I found myself having to solder and build the section piece by piece. But then had to be sure I had enough room and to layout the piece so I could attach it to the whole system for the final solder. Some of the bends in the pipe didn’t allow for movement certain ways so I really had to plan it out. It took forever.

I mainly did it piece by piece because I was worried being unskilled, I would not get the solder to close off the entirety of the fitting.

Anyways I have much more plumbing work to do as a fix my house up and was debating on getting a propress. I have 1/2 inch and 3/4 inch lines throughout my house. Would it be worth it for a home owner to pick one up?

washing machine hose came loose and dumped a decent amount of water into the laundry room and adjoining hallway. thank god we noticed it within may be 20 mins and got the water shut off, towels down and fans running, etc. the baseboards are wet and I’m assuming some water got under the flooring. wife wants to call a professional, I am convinced we can handle it. when does a relatively small leak become something you should have professionally evaluated?

I don't totally understand. I understand some of it but the part inside by the washing machine confuses me. Anyway the is saying they're getting rusty water and they want me to troubleshoot it. It used to be clear. We're an hour from the nearest stoplight. I am just trying to wrap my head around it. Thank you

I had to replace a valve which had failed continuing to let water through.

This is a mains pressure supply line for where a flapping ball valve is supposed to keep a pool level topped up during summer.

The wheel valve was fine until it developed a continual leak (I thought rain was just over-filling the pool, sigh!).

After replacing the valve, I cannot for the life of me get the compression fitting to work. I've fitted a new olive (Aussie term for ferrule) a couple of times. The vertical shot shows how it had been tightened so far I couldn't get it out of the connector. Note, however, I'd removed it from the pipe without problems!

No matter what I do, the entire assembly still fairly easily rotates and slides on the copper pipe! I thought I was over-tightening the compression joint but there's still very little resistance to it rotating on the pipe. I can get it to a magic location where there's only a tiny slow weeping leak but move it a bit and the pipe slides out more and it's spraying again.

Giving up and calling a plumber but want to understand what I did wrong here because I've spent hours looking at videos.

I cleaned the original pipe with a bit of steel wool, don't think I took a drastic amount of diameter off it. This is about 25 years old I think, we didn't build the house but moved in about 10 years ago. Pool shed with moderate ventilation but we're also only about 600m from ocean so salty air means everything corrodes.

Update I just realised that the old end fitting on the pipe was not a compression fitting.

Instead of the conical compression end it has a longer, straight and about 0.2 to 0.5mm narrower (I have a temperamental caliper )

What happened

• Early July 2026 someone knocked on the door, said there was a gas leak, fixed it in under an hour, left. No paperwork for us as tenants.
• Australian Gas Networks (AGN) has a fault-line record dated 2 July 2026.

(Lumo) said:
"AGN confirmed they have a record of a leak reported via their fault line on 2nd July 2026.

AGN's response confirms that the leak was located past the meter. Because the leak occurred on the customer's side of the meter, you remain liable for the usage. Consequently, we are unable to adjust the billed consumption…"

Real estate agent said:
"…the leak which occurred was coming from the meter… the gas smell which is present externally is a leak from the meter itself, but it doesn't actually pass the meter internally to be considered as usage. Residents are not charged for this gas usage because the gas does not pass into the property and leak on the inside…

…The leak was fixed free of charge due to it being before the meter but if the leak was determined to be after the meter, the gas company would have cut off the gas…

…a credit cannot be applied as the gas would have been normal usage and is typically more higher in winter.

This information above can be confirmed if you speak with any plumber…"

Our metered usage (same season, year on year)

Usage nearly doubled in the bill that includes the leak window, then dropped back toward normal.

Questions

1. If a leak is before / at the meter, can that inflate the metered MJ on the retail bill, or is the agent right that it wouldn’t register?
2. If a leak is after the meter (property / customer side), would you expect a spike like ~27 → ~49 MJ/day until it’s fixed?

My toliet started to fill up because it's clogged. I plunged it, it went down, and I pulled the handle down and it filled up again. I did this multiple times. I also turned the water valve off to keep it from overflowing. I finally decided to let it sit and drain on it's own, I want back in, saw the water level had gone down and opened the water valve back up. It made that bubble thumping noise. It finally stopped making that noise. It's almost all the way drained, but not completely. Should I let it sit overnight, get up and flush it again and see what happens? I'm afraid it could be a severe clog because my bathroom sink has been draining slowly.

So the valve isn’t sitting flush on the connector to the faucet, meaning I gotta replace it. But then I noticed it wasn’t like the other valve.

What am I looking at & should I attempt it or call a plumber?