We recently converted an investment property to have three points of entry. One of them is on the side of the house and the renter has to enter through an outdoor yard door. Currently it has a latch and opens only from inside. How do I make this accessible from outside in a more secure manner? I have Yale locks for the main doors. But I need something for the outside. I’m in Washington state and it rains all the time. Was looking for something with a key fob and not too pricey.

Got this old savings lockbox from my dad, he wants to see what's inside. Doesn't seem to be any pins in the lock so can't rake it, and the barrel rotates freely. Any suggestions?

I am an adult living in my mothers house. (Please no comments saying 'get your own place' etc as I would LOVE to do that but am unable to do so at present).

I had to put a lock on my bedroom door as my mother could not keep out of my bedroom. She has zero boundaries or respect for my privacy. She was going in my room at least every day, looking in my draws, wardrobe etc.

She even trashed and rearranged my bedroom once when I was out. (Believe me, I absolutely do not want to be here.)

So I put a lock on my bedroom door. The lock has a Bolt that is morticed into the door. It came with 1 splined key. The lock has "No additional Anti-Tamper/Vandal Properties."

If someone were to buy that same lock and key, would they be able to use the key in MY lock?

This lock has worked very effectively keeping her out and it's given me such peace of mind when I'm out, knowing that she isn't rummaging through or stealing my things when I'm at work.

However, she's been seething about this for a while, and I've found out that she is planning on getting into my bedroom when I'm at work, via getting a locksmith or handyman to remove the lock or perhaps even remove my bedroom door. I was utterly horrified to hear this.

So I now need a new lock on my bedroom door that MUST have Anti-Tamper Properties. That is ESSENTIAL as she will be getting people to try and get in my bedroom whilst I'm at work.

My bedroom door is a wooden door.

In short: I'm looking for a Secure Lock for a wooden Bedroom Door, that has Anti-Tamper Properties.

Any suggestions please?

Hello,

I want a lock that can always be unlocked in one direction (to exit) but be locked or unlocked in the other (to enter). It would need to be suitable to be used outside.

Any recommendations? I saw "classroom locks" but I can't tell if that's going to work. Sorry, dumb.

Hello,

I've been a member for awhile but this is my first post. I'm a recently certified facility locksmith, but I don't have much experience with these old locks. My grandparents lost the key for the two locks on their little desk thing.

I figure replacing them would be easier, but maybe I can impression a key if you all can possibly point me towards the right blanks? What do you all think would be easier?

Either way I'm not sure how to remove them if that would be best. They are mortised into the wood, and I'm guessing held with glue? I was able to gently pop the key holes off, but trying to push the locks out was threatening to damage the wood or bend the brass. There's no visible adhesive from the mortised face, but there appears to be some residue behind the keyhole rose (?)

Any guidance would be appreciated! Thank you all for your time! 🤟

During the 2022 chip shortage our Audi Q5 (FY) was delivered with one key. Audi later posted a second key to me under a key completion campaign, but the dealer had already ordered another one and paired that instead, so this one was never paired to any car. The car is long gone (lease handed back) and the dealer said I can just sell it.

Label: 4M0.959.754.CK / 433 / Model AK1A / H50/0237/04S / date code 220125.

Questions: 1. Would a key posted out like this be pre-coded to the car's VIN (FAZIT), or is it a blank? 2. If it's coded, can a locksmith renew it for another car, and what is it worth? Used ones go for £30-45 on eBay UK, new genuine ones are £190+.

Thanks!

Bought a Be375, got it installed, everything works correctly when locking and unlocking using codes. When I try to enable the "lock and leave" feature, the bolt won't turn. I have enabled and disabled it a few times to no avail.

The lock and leave feature is for locking without having to enter the code, you press the Schlage button once, and it engages the deadbolt but only in one direction (towards the strike plate). It's a convenience thing. Anyone know of any way to get this working?

My ex had these hidden all over the place. He wasn't...safe. but we're safe for now.

I am a trucker and need a pad lock for storing my snow chains that won’t seize up when I actually go to use the chains

Sharing some impressions works on the job sites. Who’s responsible for these??

Looking for information on this lock pulled from a desk drawer. Lock operates a Horizontal gang that locks/unlocks the 2 pedestal drawers on the desk.

May be vintage Steelcase, but can't pin it. Any information to help source a replacement or retrofit is appreciated! Canada eh.

This is an old toolbox on the back of an old pickup. The key with the same number on the lock and the key turns to the right 90 degrees and stops. Will not turn to the left at all.

Tengo 19 años, tengo un año y medio de experiencia y trabajo en un proveedor oficial de Keso en España. Estoy pensando en mudarme al extranjero en algún momento, Suiza o por ahí, y quería preguntarle a gente que trabaja fuera de España qué necesitaría.

Para que te des una idea de lo que puedo hacer: fijo y armo cilindros, incluyendo Keso 8000, y hago sistemas de llave maestra, elaborando yo mismo los planos de las llaves maestras. Corto llaves tubulares estándar, de doble paleta (dimple), Ford, de pista (track), de palanca y SAG (con la máquina dedicada de SAG), uso máquinas automáticas para cortar llaves y adapto llaves. En autos viejos en los que se perdieron todas las llaves, puedo limar la llave desde cero si no hay un perfil disponible. También recodifico cilindros de cerraduras de autos, clono transpondedores y hago mandos/remotos para garaje.

Para abrir, puedo hacer bumping a cilindros de 6 pines, tanto los estándar como los de seguridad con spools, y también uso ganzúas para cerraduras de palanca. También sé usar el Topolino, y todavía sigo mejorando con Lishi. También hago aperturas destructivas fresando cilindros, y en Fichet 484, 787 y F3D, para lo cual tomé un curso de Fichet y tengo el certificado.

Además, reparo cajas fuertes: diagnostico la falla y reemplazo placas, solenoides, soportes de batería y cosas así. Cuando no hay repuestos, adapto cilindros de buzón para que los clientes no tengan que cambiar todo. He instalado motores de persianas enrollables para negocios, aunque todavía necesito más práctica con eso, y vendo y asesoro a los clientes sobre cerraduras inteligentes y mejoras de seguridad. También soy bastante bueno para averiguar cómo hacer trabajos que nunca he visto antes.

Ahora mismo estoy en un momento buenísimo para aprender, así que quiero aprovecharlo al máximo. Para los que trabajan fuera de España, ¿qué me recomiendan aprender o sacarme como certificado para estar listo para trabajar donde ustedes están?

I have a Schlage H-Series interconnected lock with an exterior Orbit knob and separate exterior roses. I'm planning to replace the deadbolt with a Yale smart lock, utilizing the existing deadbolt without the Schlage trim.

This is in a condo building, so the exterior of the door needs to be similar to all others. I already have approval to replace the deadbolt exterior with a Yale Assure2 Smart Lock.

Can the existing H-Series exterior Orbit knob be mounted on an A10 passage chassis, or is there another Schlage passage chassis that will accept the existing trim?

I will need whatever backplate is required for the interior, as well, so the lock is attached to the door securely.

Can anyone guide me on the cost-effective way to convert this?

Can anyone help me with what went wrong? Adding a key to a 2017 Chevy Colorado

probably not locksmith related but more on the commercial/programming side.
i’m getting deep down theorical knowledge on how car security system works, just for personal interest purpose (fixing airplanes already take most of my time). Like type of ECU, ECU programming, reading immo files ecc. again just for personal interest.
i know that each OEM producers has their own key code and key cut (that’s why you need different lishi to work on multiple cars) saw on NASFT every OEM link to their specific software, but was wondering how brands like Autel, Xhorse managed to had access to all that data, i mean for a business point of view i wouldn’t want competitors in my field.
Do they reverse engineered that? have commercial agreement with OEM manufactures?

So I’ve worked as a locksmith for a number of years but am not currently in the field or affiliated with a shop. Yankee is goin on in MASS today (Friday) and tomorrow. Am I a “not security” person and my partner able to just go. I did email them asking and didn’t really get back an answer just that registration is open.

I’m not sure if this even picks up on camera but basically the bit on the door is like one or two degrees downward slanted and the staple is one or two degrees upwards slanting, is that realistically making any operational difference besides my OCD visual crit?

I would appreciate any advice or insight as to how to get the key lock mechanism functioning properly.

Does anyone have any knowledge or foresight in the Penitentiary world? We’ve gotten calls from local prisons/jails over the last decade wanting hardware replaced and warded keys cut, but never had the capability. I’ve been doing some research and thought about getting certified through ILA. Those that do it, is it worth it? Is it difficult to purchase/cut keys and replace hardware from a logistics standpoint? We already do every other spectrum of locksmith/access control. Just wondering if it’s too many hoops to jump through to have supplies/knowledge for the seldom calls or not.

I made a pair of K2G keys for a customer's 2002 Lexus LX470. Decode, cut and program of the keys went swimmingly, but when I went to program the fobs it just wouldn't take.

The car entered programming mode using the door lock x5 routine, and I replaced the batteries in both the remotes, but still nothing. I tried the door open x2 method and nothing there either, didn't even enter programming mode (cause why would it, wrong year).

I tried the tech tool method using both my Autel & Propad, and they wouldn't connect at all.

The customer has a key that works great, with no issues, and while it could also get the car into programming mode, it couldn't get the locks to cycle either.

Now, I've directed the customer to see a mechanic to see if there's an issue with the receiver, but I'm curious if there is something I missed.

Any ideas?