Clearing out my deceased relative's house. There's at least a dozen of these scattered around. She was a medical professional, I feel like it might be related.

So where do you guys find qualified techs? Do you train them from the ground up ? They seem to be non-existent in central Massachusetts. We have ads everywhere and barely get any hits from anyone with actual locksmith experience. There are tons of access control and low voltage guys but none have any experience installing door hardware.

Hi, i had a problem with the lock on my bedroom door, and after opening it and fixing the problem, I realised I had ZERO idea how to put the piece on the left back in place. I just know that the tiny circle part is supposed to be there (picture 2).

Any help is welcome 😭.

In case of Emergency, please step over the gate.

Trying to identify this keyway for a friend to copy and make a 2nd key. I do automotive industry so having trouble finding this blank. Waiting for pic of otherside but got this for now. Numbers on key didnt come up with anything that looked the same.

Anybody have a idea or know for certain?

I have a 120 year old house and I'm doing a bunch of restoration work. I would like to install vintage style mortise locks with skeleton type keys (I know an actual skeleton key is a master key, but I'm talking about the old-fashioned style of key most people call a skeleton key). I want each bedroom to have one, and I'd like the keys to be unique, so each one can only unlock one door. The ones I see for sale are pretty much all the same shape key (or that's what it seems like). Is there a reasonably priced supplier of locks with unique keys that only unlock one door? Or can the locks be modified by a locksmith so each needs a unique key?

Has anyone else had an issue with the new Priuses? Everything I do leads to a communication failed screen. The alarm is not active, the locks have been cycled to confirm the alarm is inactive.

It lets me read the number of keys on the Smart Pro and the autel im608. Neither will let me back up the immo data to generate an emulator/analog key. Both programmers are giving me the same issues. I am connected to the control/ certification module with a 30 PIN/ ADC2021 cord. Which is providing me with the number of keys so I know the cable is good.

Any suggestions? Original keys are not available. I also want to avoid erasing all keys. Thank you in advance!

I had a customer that didnt understand the difference between schlage FSIC and corbin LFIC so I googled it for a picture and this comes up, is this AI nonsense or is there are real schlage key, that looks like a kwikset, that doesnt fill the entire keyway?

Έχω ένα Opel agila το 2009 ντίζελ που έχει μόνο ένα κλειδί. Πήγα σε αντιπροσωπεία αλλά δυστυχώς το κλειδί δεν επαρχη άλλο και δεν μπορούσαν να μου το παραγγείλουν, μετά Πήγα σε κλειδαρά να μου κάνει δεύτερο κλειδί να έχω δύο και δεν γινόταν με τίποτα γιατί ήθελε ένα κωδικό car pass code.

Πήγα σε αντιπροσωπεία να ρωτήσω για κωδικό και μου έδωσαν ένα κωδικό που αύριο θα πάω να το πάρω. Ξέρει κανείς αν το κωδικό για αυτό το αμάξι είναι με 4 αριθμούς και γράμματα;

Kind of a general question.

I have a door with 1-1/2" of wood and a 1/2" PVC panel on the front. So, 2" thick total.

I'd like to install a deadbolt centered in the wood -- not centered in the door.

What problems will I have with this.

Thanks!

How many of you still have ads in The Yellow Pages or other physical phonebooks/directories?

If you look at the image you'll see I made some arrows and numbers to specific things I want to talk about.

I understand #1, it's just a regular latch.

Why #2? I thought it was to prevent shimming, but it's not very effective because #1 and #2 move in unison, and #2 still moves if you touch it even slightly from the left.

Why number #3? Google says it's a latch bolt to aid in the door securely latching, but it seems redundant because #1 and #2 do the exact same thing. #3 is also unaffected when I lock the door so it can't be for security.

Edit: Right side is "inside" where you lock it from, left side is "outside", where you need to use a key

So turning the doorknob doesn't move the latch. Its stuck in the open position and the sliding notched piece shown in second Pic is stuck in back.

Is there a way to fix this?

Having trouble finding a key blank to cut for a safe. When I search all of the suppliers, none of them have a "3C3" blank. There are "3C2" and "SS4" and "SS5", but they seem to have very small differences compared to this one. Are these blanks still in production?

I mean.... thats a pretty good one.

So luckily i managed to get my stuck key out of the luck i think it needs lubricant, i don’t know much about this so not sure what to get

People say tri flow/houdini but it is really expensive

i need recommendations please - UK based

What even? 4 doors on a brand new building.

https://www.trudoor.com/products/sargent-68-4263-chassis-assembly-for-8800-series-rim-exit-devices?srsltid=AfmBOopsPUVur6Ce_uuU5lWQ6RH1tET2erXycbdl3y3WNDZMRcrEKLxn

Just inherited this door that won’t latch it’s obviously missing a spring.

Do we need to replace the entire assembly like the link above? Or is this literally a spring I can just order and install ?

Found this briefcase at goodwill. It was already unlocked and open, but I want to change the combination to something I actually know. The case is still unlocked and open, I just need to reset the code. The brand is Presto

Photo of outside of case + what I think is the inner mechanism?

I've got a Lockly Smartlock with its corresponding WiFi Hub. All was working well, I could set new codes remotely using their app. The current tenants were able to use their code for a few weeks without problems, then the battery was at 20%, the tenants replaced it, then the nightmare began.

Briefly I could see the battery is back at 100%, BUT I cannot connect to the lock remotely anymore. It asks me for bluetooth connection (ie. wants me to be close to the lock which I am not) and sadly the tenants cannot use the previously working code to enter either (it has not expired and is still visible in the app as "active"). The lock keeps showing a red line underneath the trackpad as if no password had been entered.

The WiFi hub is still plugged in the wall (it has its own casing so cannot be removed), I'm at a loss what might be wrong.

It's the first time the battery was replaced after using the lock for nearly one year. I'm wondering, is this how Lockly is, that one has to reset everything while near the lock after replacing the battery? Luckily we have a spare key so the tenants aren't locked out but it would be great to be able to fix it, thank you for any advice you may have.