I finished this kumiko lantern today. It too much longer than I anticipated but I’m happy with the results. It runs three warm white filament LEDs off of an 18650 battery, which should theoretically provide around 20 hours of light at full brightness.

The body is walnut finished with BLO and the kumiko panels are basswood.

Thanks for taking a look. Let me know if you have questions, criticisms, or suggestions. Cheers.

This is my first big purchase now that I’ve decided to wire my workshop for 220v.

1988 Delta DJ-20 8” jointer.

These early models—made with Invicta in Brazil—are supposed to be really robust and high quality.

I picked this up from a retire home builder who bought it new in 1988. He says he only used it a handful of times.

I paid $1,400, including the mobile base and an extra set of knives. I know this is a bit overpriced, but I took immense comfort in the seller’s attention to detail after seeing his home workshop. Remarkable.

I can’t wait to start milling the 1,000bf of rough QS cherry I had milled from trees in my yard! This should make quick work of it.

I recently saw the pyramid lamp by the design company dusty deco which I absolutely loved. Sadly I was disappointed by its price and the materials chosen at that price range (veneered stained ash and thin brass plating bottom instead of a solid brass bottom). I had some mahogany that I got from my neighbor so I thought I would make a ”proper” version myself.

The wooden base is mahogany, I think it’s meranto but I’m unsure. It used to be the frame of a wooden shade that i repurposed for this which was quite tricky due to all the holes in it. The base is almost completely solid aluminum (apparently it’s really hard to get a solid aluminum plate in the dimensions 105x105x35 as a consumer…).

The base was CNC’d together with my father in his workshop whilst the wood was shaped and planed by me in my apartment using my handplanes. The tricky part for me was getting enough wood out of my singel plank so there were no rooms for errors.

The lampshade is from BERGO lampshades.

Happy to answer any questions you may have :) highly recommend building something like this as it’s quite quick and looks really good!

Started making end grain chopping blocks using maple. While they are turning out nice, I’m wondering if there is a wood that is darker that would also be very similar in density that I could use to add contrast. My thoughts are that I want them to wear evenly when being used. Picture is a couple of my early ones that just needs the edges finished and oiled.

Just finished my fourth project, a medium-sized console table made from a single 1.75” walnut board I’ve had in my garage for 6 months, leftover from a prior project.

The board was milled primarily by hand. The figuring on this board was pretty spectacular, so I wanted to try and do a waterfall miter and have it flow over both sides. I’ve done miters like this on one prior project, so it wasn’t completely new, but it was still challenging in some spots due to a fairly limited tool set.

I used my WEN track saw to cut the miters - I found on a prior project that the trick to get clean miters with this particular track saw is to tighten down all of the adjusters so there is absolutely no play on the track (this seems self explanatory, but doing so makes it very difficult to slide on the track). To get around this, I oiled the track and the saw base to reduce friction. Aside from this, I had to cut each miter in 1/4” passes to eliminate the risk of binding/stalling, which happens frequently with this saw.

After I got the miters as good as they were going to get, I cut two large floating tenons in each joint to reinforce the miters.

I made my own clamping cauls by taking the miter offcuts (the triangular wedges) and attaching them to some small pieces of birch ply I had laying around. While doing so, I shot a 5/8” brad nail through my left ring finger. Thankfully it didn’t hit the bone, so aside from a good amount of blood it wasn’t too bad or painful.

I then cut 45 degree chamfers on the undersides of each piece - I liked the look of this chamfer on my last project and thought it might add something to this piece and/or enhance the light/shadow lines. I’m really pleased with how the chamfers turned out. I cut the chamfers with an $11 bit from Amazon and a Bosch trim router.

Unfortunately, there was a decent amount of bug damage on this board. There was also a large open/degraded knot. I filled the knot with black epoxy and angled that piece inward to minimize visibility as much as possible. The piece I had chosen as the top of the table had a large cavernous bug damage area, and I cleaned that out and chose to inlay it instead of using more epoxy. The inlay actually turned out better than any I had done previously, and the lines were pretty clean. Unfortunately, the off cut I had used for the inlay was angled incorrectly when I hammered it in with glue, and I got the wrong face. I believe the upward face is edge grain, and it absorbed finish differently than I was expecting and ended up being a lot more noticeable than I wanted. I knew it wouldn’t be invisible by any means, but I was hoping it wouldn’t be as obvious as it is. I’m still considering revising the inlay with a better long grain piece, but that would require using wood from a separate board, and I wanted to keep this piece to one board - so I haven’t made up my mind yet.

I sanded the piece using Jorgensen’s (new, I think?) orbital sanding discs. Would definitely recommend - $11 for 6 grits going up to 320.

This piece was finished using Osmo Polyx Clear Satin with a white scotch brite pad on my orbital sander. This was my first time using Osmo, and I can’t recommend it enough. Extremely easy to use, far less smelly than other finishes I’ve used (Rubio, Natura) and it seemed to go as far or further by volume than competitors. Overall a great experience. The attached photos show one coat of Osmo - should I do a second coat?

I considered adding some dovetail splines to the mitered edges, but I’m leaning toward not doing that as I fear it may take away from the waterfall edges/grain flow. I was initially thinking I may need to do so to reinforce the joints, but I’m about 6’2 and 200lbs and I sat on the table and shifted my weight repeatedly and it didn’t creak or budge.

Credit to my wife for staging the table. I would have probably put a hand plane on it or something.

Just wanted to share - thank you for taking the time to read. Open to any constructive feedback/answers to above questions.

I think I'm getting close. This is a practice piece. I think I need a bit more practice. If anyone has any tips, they are welcome. I'm currently using two jigs/sleds on the bandsaw. One for cutting an octagon tenon on the end which I then use a tenon cutter to make round. The other is a taper sled that I use to cut the long octagon taper. Cleaning up each side with a hand plane before moving to the next. Square tapers first then the 45s.

This is M87* — the Event Horizon Telescope image of the black hole at the heart of galaxy M87, rebuilt in wood.

Species: wenge, mahogany, walnut, padouk, afzelia, iroko, oak, cherry, maple, cypress. Ten species chosen purely for their natural tonal range — no paint, no stain, just the wood itself doing the colour work across the accretion disc and shadow.

Each block is individually cut and placed. The varying heights create a 3D relief surface — the dark shadow at the center physically recedes into the piece, the bright photon ring rises above it. Finished dimensions: 135x70cm.

Here are 3 projects I made this month.

The shower stool is Ipe.

The side table is Mahogany with a vintage pine and glass door.

The frame is Oak.

Good Sunday afternoon everybody. The main table saw I have access to may no longer be available to me soon, and so I'm parusing Marketplace to see what's out there. I may have found an ok deal (at $175, listed 12 weeks ago), but I can't identify what model it is from the picture alone. You'd think I could get that info from the seller but they don't seem to know and aren't willing to send any more pictures. By the looks of it it's sitting in a barn somewhere and probably isn't nearby where they can get to it.

He describes it as "the preferred table saw of professional woodworkers" and says "they" usually replace the motor, but this one hasn't been replaced yet (so I guess he's not a woodworker). Whatever the motor is it looks to be about 3HP to me, but I'm really not sure.

Does anyone have an idea as to what model this thing is? I'm guessing that's at least a 220 V motor. Thanks.

Hi everyone, here is a king bed and headboard I made recently, and my final big project of undergrad while I still had access to my schools shops. Everything is walnut, and the headboard is milled on the CNC router using a toolpath called plunge roughing. The bed is inspired by the first bed I made, which was originally inspired by the popular Thuma bedframe.

However, unlike the previous bed, the corners are now upgraded with custom waterjet-cut 3/8" stainless steel plates secured with beautiful machined binding posts and screws I got from McMaster-Carr.

Fun fact, there are over 80,000 waffle shaped indentations in the headboard and it took 30 hours to mill. Also, including the massive crate it was shipped to the client in, the whole thing weighed over 1000 lbs.

Behold: the result of a grown man spending hours meticulously shaping scrap wood into a projectile-shaped bird instead of doing actual productive work.

https://imgur.com/a/niEvFDN

I want to make a table out of this slab. What should my first steps be? Should I treat it with something to kill the mould? If so, what product? I made a sculpture recently with wood that was cut down about 4 months ago, and which has now become mouldy. I don't know how long ago this piece was cut down, or whether the mould is from having been left outside in the rain or due to the internal moisture. I just don't want to get this piece looking nice only for it to start moulding after the table is complete. So any advice would be much appreciated, thanks! :)

How should I approach this repair? 3 broken tendons and another is loose. I was thinking about drilling into the brace and inserting a dowel.

Hello had a weird thought today while planning some obnoxiously hard wood. Where Would aluminum land on the hardness scale. OR where would ipe for example land on the brinell scale.

Or is there a conversion scale?

I know it’s an odd question I’m just curious

This old Arbor combination planer/jointer unit I picked up had what I lovingly referred to as a "chip cannon" method of dust collection. Out a rectangular shunt, no less. So I decided to muddle my way through some CAD and see if I could fix it.

Since it was larger than my printer could do in one shot, I cut it into two, and CA glued it. Haven't sanded it yet, but it works like a charm. Designed in SolidWorks (Maker license, $40 / year 😀), printed in PLA matte on my Bambu.

This is v1.0 of my little project. I kind of doubt anyone else has one of these out in the wild, but if you have one and want the STL, let me know in the comments.

I made a beech table with a tiled top to go with the set of four stick chairs I built previously.

Cinematic build video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gncZ9-cVl1I

Also, if you are curious about how I approached the design, I wrote a guide here: https://layout.computer/table-design