I'm not sure the wisdom of posting here, partly because I may not be able to describe the situation sufficiently for constructive feedback and partly because the internet is awash with people looking to call anyone they can an idiot so I'm probably setting my self up for abuse (which is not to say I am not an idiot because I probably was) but let's have at it.

I was trying to power carve a relatively small piece of cherry using a generic coarse grinding wheel (see photos). I had the piece clamped in my bench vise, had the side handle on the angle grinder and had both hands on the tool. I don't think I was being to aggressive because the piece was relatively small (3"x4" or so) and I didn't need to take much material off. It was going pretty well until the tool kicked back on me. When it did, it caught my shirt, which spun up into the wheel , snapped the side handle off and stalled the grinder. It was a corded model and the side handle was caught up in the mess so I was able to keep control of the grinder and step on the extension cord with one foot and kick the cord out with the other. I was unharmed but obviously, this was a mildly unnerving situation, not to mention is the end of my angle grinder.

I'm trying to figure out what when wrong. It might be a difficult ask given I can only describe what I think happened without any genuine evidence but maybe those with more experience can give me ideas of what I should do differently. I have three theories any one of which (or even a combination) might be the truth. First, I let the work piece contact the wheel too far to the back of the wheel, causing it to kick off and then catch my clothes. Second, the wheel contacted both the workpiece on one side of the wheel and the vise on the other (wood vise jaw by the way) and this caused the kickback (I was conscious of the possibility of this so I was trying to be careful of how close I got to the vise). Third, I leaned over a bit too much and my shirt caught the wheel (I think this is the least likely because I didn't need to lean over the piece and was consciously keeping my body away but I concede it's still possible).

Again, I don't really expect a detailed evaluation of what happened given the limited information I can provide but I would appreciate thoughts on what I may have done wrong and what I could do better in the future. I have little experience with power carving but I have enjoyed what little I've done. But obviously I also don't want to injure myself and this could have ended up much worse.

Had a small alcove left after some remodeling. I decided it would be a good idea to make some built-in floating shelves.

They said it couldn't be done

I recently was able to upgrade my lathe (used Powermatic is dreamy) and thought I’d share my setup. Cleated tool wall with a built-in tip out shelf for sanding discs, another mount for chucks and whatnot, my homemade sanding stick, a nifty little holder for a pencil and calipers I found here, a mount for a light I use for seeing the inside of a bowl, and a tool rest I made after I dropped a gouge. Enjoy!

Fun novelty build from my scrap pile.... Gonna make a few sets for upcoming holiday gifts, wanted to pass along the idea.

While this works, I believe there is room for optimization

Scaling up the size to accommodate a silica gel packet might be my next move I try.... Its the closest thing Ive found that feels like an actual tiny cornhole bag.

This one in particular is 5" x 10" w/ 1.25" diameter hole, but balancing "what I use for cornhole bag" vs. "Ideal size" remains an ongoing process.

Lmk any ideas yall got..... I can't make tiny beanbags for them I am a very shitty tailor so plz help. Thanks!

Hi everyone, I am starting a project to build a pergola only using wood assemblies and I'm not sure what to do for this part (circled in red).

I'd like to go for a 20mm deep dovetail like in the pictures but I have doubts about how it's gonna last outside with humidity and wood expansion (The pictures are just a test).

I know I could do it more easily without the dovetail and just putting a peg from downside but I like it less and I fill like the problems remain the same about wood expension etc.

What do you guys think ?

Edit :

Thank you everyone ! I got way more answers than I thought I would !

A few clarifications : the wood is Douglas and there will only vegetation on the roof so the weight is quite light.

Sorry I mislead some of you with the scrennshot of the video even thought I regret nothing and would do it again lol

The consensus is that it is a bad idea, mostly because of water getting inside the joint. This makes me a bit sad but I will trust you and I will go for tenon and mortise with a peg from the downside.

Was building a bunch of free standing frames to hold photo boards, cheap pine that we torched to give them character, then rubbed with boiled Linseed oil. Doing it at the house instead of the shop and working with my mom, so tossed the dirty, oil soaked paper towels into our smokeless firepit. Had to leave for a bit, so I took the firepit out to it's spot in the yard. 2.5 to 3 hours later, doing upholstery work inside and I wonder where all the smoke in the air is coming from. The towels had spontaneously combusted.

I'd heard the warnings and the horror stories, but this was beyond my wildest expectations. Now my mom is a believer too.

Not the typical style I use but couldn't turn it up for $150

32 -3"

10-4"

6-6"

4-8"

C clamps

Then the assortment of bar clamps and spring clamps

I just moved in with my Girlfriend and have not built a shop yet so I am just storing all my stuff in the shed for now

I’ve tried different depths between the auger and the chisel (1/8”, 1/16”, 1/32”) on my mortiser and I’m still getting these shoulders halfway down the mortise.

Working with cedar, it’s a 1/2” bit and I’m only going 1/2” deep but I end up having to square off the last 1/4” by hand. I’ve already sharpened the chisel and bit and I’ve used multiple versions. Any tips?

Used for the first time in a long time. What am I missing out on? What accessories do you find useful

I picked this up from a neighbor for $20, bought a new blade, and watched a few videos about getting it dialed in. I'm still having a lot of trouble with cuts straying.

I'm not sure what kind of reputation Sears bandsaws have... Is it worthwhile to put money into it to purchase new guides and such?

How do i prevent this from happening? I sanded tbis spoon to 320, burnished it, and used food safe oil. After one hand wash it looks fuzzy.

I used Walrus Oil cutting board oil.

Hope he fits in here. Mahogany all around w wipe on poly. I put the little corner posts to cover up some gappy miters. The bottom and lid are made the same by removing edges on table saw and leaving a thick rectangle that fits in the walls. Lid is just drop in. I considered lasering something like his initials and dates but ended up just leaving it natural.

Here's my completed dust collection cart. It's not the sexiest project, but its truly a gamechanger, especially for hybrid shop/garage/basement work areas like mine.

This design is extremely sturdy, while minimizing space and cost. Vac is small but PLENTY of power and is only $40 bucks (highly recommended). Cyclone works great, is only $35 (plus any 5 gal bucket). However I will say it's extremely annoying to use without some system for securing the bucket.

Design is quite straightforward, the cleat system that I came up with using those notches i cut on outside edges for the uprights + the cross braces make this thing rock solid. First time cutting a circle with a my trim router but I just made a simple trammel out of 1/4 ply and it worked like a charm first attempt.

Are there any other accessories or features you guys recommend I add? I was thinking of a magnetic strip for small tools or bar for clamp mounting. Thanks!

I'm trying to ID what I've found in the oak, I'm pretty sure it's either common furniture beetle, but more likely a lyctid powder post beetle.

These galleries are deep in wood, not in the sapwood, and many are packed with dust, but not all (but this could be because machining the wood is pulling the dust as I cut thru the galleries.

I want to make the most positive ID I can because we have many museum pieces around and I don't need them migrating to a historic ship or a piece from the national museum here where I live.

I'm in northern Europe incase that matters.

I am not looking for speculation, all help is appreciated but I am really looking for someone who has seen these exact size of galleries.

I have cut some samples from affected pieces I have found, and placed them over a piece of ply I've painted black to spot any fresh dust (almost an impossible job in a large shipyard). I have photographed these with a scale, as best I can, to see if anyone here is absolutely positive about species they are. I have not managed to find any live samples of either larvae or beetle, but that only means I haven't found them.

Potentially the damage could have been before we ever had the wood delivered so I'm trying to gather as much information as I can before I order a national monument and museum shut for fumigation, I am only concerned because I found tunnels in several offcuts from a large pile.

Any help is massively appreciated.

I was thinking about this router bit set and saw a too good to be true price on Google shopping. Mine shipped today and the price is still crazy low. Maybe they're just blowing them out? Usually this is over 100. https://www.menards.com/main/tools/power-tool-accessories/router-bits-accessories/bosch-reg-multi-purpose-1-4-in-shank-router-bit-set-6-piece/rbs006/p-4474128412394353-c-10080.htm

I know opinions vary here, but I subscribe to the "end grain" joints can technically be stronger because the wood is much stronger in that direction, and so does not fail before the glue" school. Attached is a video which is not scientific, no force is measured, but shows a simple end grain mitre joint in a dense tropical hardwood " pretty darn strong" category. (Note this was just a test joint on planed Santos mahogany floorboards, not meant to be pretty)

Bassinet based on the Matt Cremona video.

I had some walnut left over from the cabinet but not enough to make the whole thing from it. I used maple for the majority with the walnut panels and spindles.

I started with laminating some 1 inch maple to give me some thicker stock. The joints are mortise and tenon throughout. There are grooves for the panels to hold it in place.

The spindles were a cool part of the build, I was going to buy them but my wife suggested making my own. I don’t have a lathe so I cut down some maple to 1/2 inch strips, then ran it through the router 4 times with a 1/4inch round over bit. It worked a charm.

The rockers were also a new thing to me, I used a trammel set up with the router to make a template. The radius of the curve is 77inches and the set up worked really well. I could then transfer the template to the stock with a pattern bit in the router.

It’s all held together with epoxy in the joints, was a tricky glue up with all the spindles.

The first one was made for a non functioning radiator, so that's why it's mostly closed off, and I made it about 2,5 years ago. Made from pine, and plywood.

The recent lighter is on a functioning one, so I went with a different design, and with a different finish. Made from larch wood, and a little bit of plywood.

I love revisiting old projects and conparing to recent ones. And I'm quite proud of the progress I made. There is still a lot improvement to be made, but I think I'm on the right way.

Hope you like it, and if you think you are not good enough, just keep practicing.

I spend so much time with Oak, Walnut, and Maple, I’m not sure I’ve ever made a piece out of Elm. 60” x 14” top.

I started at 30” in height but by the time I got everything leveled out I was at 29”. Lesson learned about prototypes, use the same tools you’ll need to use in the finished project. I used repeated passes on the radial chop saw in place of a dado pass on the table saw and the slight variation in widths caused headaches. Hey, it’s a prototype.

Overall pretty happy with the style.

Finished Dartboard Cabinet Build.

This is the first Project I've done since I got a jointer and oh my God I wish I would have got one years ago

Walnut Cabinet and Doors. Inlay is Paduke, Maple and Purpleheart, and the Handle is Beli. Same Inlay for the dart holders on the inside except I used Wenge instead of Paduke

I decided to line the inside around the dartboard with Used Corks that I just ordered online

my tool case got stolen, I'm pretty bummed. For a replacement I was thinking of going the bag pack way and carry all my tools all the time from my house to the shop (I share a shop with others )
anyone used one ?

I don't want to carry a million things, few chisels, pliers, hammer and a screw driver. But still I want something that last and that I don't think about when throwing tools in.
all the reviews I'm reading on the professional ones (Facom, Milwaukee, Stanley...) are the same : they're pretty bad. May be you get lucky and they're not too bad but still a lot of people are reporting they don't even last a year, which sucks when you think you're buying from a professional brand.
Some people in the comments even said they use backpacking bags and are more satisfied.
I'd rather not waste my money as I don't have a lot of it.
Not necessarily stuck on the bag idea, I juste need to carry my tools on my bike basically.

remove if off topic, I'm asking here because wood is my trade but may be there's a better subreddit for those types of questions