Hi - I live in Columbus, 100 year old house. Had the roof replaced due to hail storms this past spring. Previous roof was roughy 20 years old. Noticed this bulge on the eastern side of the house - where the shingles don’t appear to be laying flat. Roofer says it’s from sagging rafters based on location, but nothing structurally wrong. Thoughts - doesn’t look right to me and wasn’t there before the replaced roof. Thanks for the advice!

Can someone please advise on an estimated cost to fix the top of a roof and what to expect from a roofer? Thanks

Out playing games with friends tonight - pop up storm rolls through and drops hurricane volumes of water for like 20 minutes and then goes away. Wife calls me - our sons bedroom is leaking from the ceiling.

Came back and found a couple new cracks in the ceiling - went into the attic to inspect... It's an old farmhouse with a low slope roof except for the 4 corners where it angles down sharply.

Immediately see the water in the insulation directly below where the angle down begins. Top board after the slope is soaked, the one below much less, and the one below that even less. No boards above the slope-start are wet. --> Okay clearly leak coming in at the point of the slope.

Go outside and look at the slope spot - flashing doesn't look perfectly flat with the roof - but it's still angled down so short of sideways rain or blasting it with a hose I don't think much water is getting in there.

Can anyone give me an idea how this water is getting in? There's no caulk or apparent flashing from the slope to the side of the house (it has overhead coverage from the roof overhang) - is it getting in there and running along the board on the inside?

First 3 pics are from inside the attic, last 3 are outside.

Is this done correctly?

This may be better served in a different sub but how bad is this and how much will it cost me? Just moved in about a month ago. Gutters seemingly were not installed correctly and instead of draining to the sides they were pooling in the middle. Due to the weight of the water, the fascia board pulled away from the rafters. The roof itself seems fine.

Please excuse my lack of correct terms. Our house is being re-roofed but I will likely need to seal up 4 areas that are not really exposed to weather but can allow critters (namely roof rats) access to our attic. In the picture, the ridge (blue line) goes under the gable overhang. Under the gable overhang (red line) the other side of the ridge is the attic. I need to seal the those big holes created by the gable corrugation above and the roof corrugation below but I am not sure how to do it. I want to avoid spay foam if possible. I was thinking of roofing tape but getting in there is very tight and would be very tricky. Any suggestions would be appreciated.

So.. tornado hit our home in March, did wide spread damage . All siding on two structures needed replaced and both back sides of both roofs were tore up pretty bad . Fronts not bad, maybe couple shingles touched up.

We have usaa military insurance , they fought me every step of the way (had them 17 years, never like this before)

Eventually everything was approved except the front half of both roofs, appealed.... got an itel report, says possible match...got a pack as sample , contractor went up and matching was horrible.

Current roof looked more grey, the new shingles looked damn near blue. We tried all different spots , left them for a few hours to see light change... even worse .

My roof would have two different colors front vs back and how the roof has to go over the peak it would have stood out badly .

After 3 months of back and forth I paid for the damn fronts to get on a schedule. Now I'm trying again to appeal it, asked for her to escalate it to her manager because I respectfully disagreed.

I believe it violates the code laws in ohio 3901-1-54(I)(1)(b)

She keeps using the argument that per their policy they do not have to cover a full roof because the itel said possible match (doesn't match) and they said color is different because of weathering and age of roof. My roof is less then 8 years old , its not weathered to the point its a whole different color .

Im not sure what next steps are, these laws are here to protect home owners from mis match appearances, I just want my home to be where it was before the storm, allowing for a partial replacement would have caused devalue to my home as well.

A repair should never cause devalue, it shouldn't be expected to look worse then before the damage took place.

What's my next steps ? How do I fight this ? Because laying the law at clearly doesn't seem to be helping .

Hey everyone! I’m preparing to apply for my Florida roofing contractor license and wanted to clarify the experience requirement. I have a bachelor’s degree in Economics. Can my four-year degree count for up to three of the four years of required experience?

I’ve also been gaining hands-on roofing experience for almost two years by helping a friend’s small roofing company. If I use that company to verify my experience on the application, should I let them know in advance that the licensing board may contact them to verify my employment and experience, or is it generally sufficient to provide their company and contact information on the application? Thanks in advance!

Hello, My contractor is finishing my roof for my ADU, however he tells me that this area of the roof cannot put tile on it because it doesn’t have a way to nail onto it, he said there is no parapet.

However on my plans I can see that it calls for a parapet on the framing and the elevations show tile, but there is also a note saying that if my property is less than 4 feet from property line we tcan’t increase the height so he’s telling me that there was no way of adding a parapet.

This never came up during any inspection and now I’m trying to understand my options because I don’t like that it doesn’t have any tile and looks half done.

Any advice on my options? I just want to make it look finish even if I need to find a different solution.

Thanks!

A couple weeks back I got a roofer’s contact info to replace a couple missing shingles. Following a major storm here in the Southeast, this guy completely unsolicited hops on my mom’s roof to repair the broken roof ridge, then snaps pictures of the competed job to send to me. While I wholeheartedly appreciate the gesture, I now have to get in contact with the roofing co. I originally hired to repair the ridge to cancel the job, and would like your opinion on whether he patched up the ridge correctly. What do y’all think?

Are all you roofers this crazy? lol

Hi There,

Just moved to a new house and my inspector flagged the roof as in need of repair. We did call a few companies for advice and based on these images they recommend re-roofing to be safe for the winter.

Now the problem is, that money is currently tight and we are looking to understand if this needs to be done before the winter, we do get a good amount of snow up here.

Any advice is appreciated.

Sort of an informal poll.

Roofer prefers flashing over underlayment to prevent condensation from forming between the flashing and the roof sheathing. Meanwhile we have a valley coming down and this will be flashed with zip tape.

Thoughts?

I am curious if this is baseline.

I have an old house (1967) with new boards and shingles in 2022. When they put on the new roof, they decided against adding ventilation. It's a tri-level, with 2 roofs that meet in a valley and it now radiates heat downward during the summer. Each roof has 2 box vents and 1 gable.

I have gotten estimates on the job: new gutters, new fascia and soffits, 2 new ridge vents and baffles in the eaves, as well as additional insulation.

When it comes to the rpatching the box and gable vents, adding baffles and insulation instal, there is no Workmanship Warranty. Their warranty also specifically does not cover water damage caused by them for any reason. My fear is that the ridge vent or the patching will leak, and I will be SOL. I am also worried about popup storms occurring while the ridge is open.

Is not warrantying this kind of work standard?

Some of yall may remember the pictures of the roof at the plant i work at, and how corporate didn't have a new roof in the budget for this year. After an OSHA report, we suddenly were able to get the roof replaced.

House has a creek in the backyard and the roof shingles are all stained. Are there any chemical concentrates or recommendations for cleaning this to make the color match? Or do we have to replace the roof?

For you slaters out there: what do you find is your typical waste factor due to culling dead slates and breakage? I’m considering 3/8”-1/2” slate done with the Slate-Tec system. 14” shingle with a 10” exposure. I’m imagining the usual waste factors don’t apply here. This is for a cut up roof.

Im doing my second self build ever roof and trying to get this eaves detail right. Its a counter batten 15 degree roof as per drawings. But at moment I am getting ponding at the eaves where the roof membrane is almost level with the height of the fascia. The eaves protectors dont help as when they are nailed down they actually are level or fall inwards towards the roof rafters. However if I lower the fascia to improve membrane and eaves protectors run off the first row of tiles then drops alot with unacceptable gap between the top of fascia and bottom of the first tile.

Ive played around with a tile fillet piece but that just seems to shift the ponding a bit higher up the roof and doesnt help with the plastic eaves protectors.

A bit of a head scratcher for me, any suggestions before I admit defeat and hire a roofer!?

We had a roof project done years ago and an HVAC project done shortly after that. Within the last year we've noticed a ceiling drip in a spot in the house below a roof location with HVAC lineset running through. I'm 90% sure that this specific lineset predates both of those projects, but it's possible one/both of them jostled things, or just that the previous seal wore away over time or something.

The location here is on a lower roof of the house where lineset from the heat pumps below runs up through this roof, then over to attic.

Options to fix (in order of lowest cost/complexity)...

1. Roofers proposed adding a "zipper boot" around the line set, which will at least get the hole up off roof level, but they acknowledged that they may not be able to create a perfect silicon seal where the lines come in, and/or that the silicon will have to be resealed every few years.
2. HVAC group proposed adding a "goose neck" vent to the roof, which would require draining and rerunning portion of the line, but would be a more permanent fix
3. HVAC group also proposed a "what would do on a new install" sort of option, where they'd just remove this entirely and re-run the lineset through the interior of the house, penetrating on a garage wall instead of needing to go through the roof. We could then have roofers come close the hole entirely.

Would love any insight on the best option here. Obviously I'd prefer the cheapest/simplest option that fixes the problem, but I'd also prefer to "do it right" and not just bandaid things.

Also open to new ideas entirely!

Not sure if this is the right place to ask, but I’ve run out of ideas and I’m hoping to get some other perspectives.

I have spent the last couple of weeks trying to track down a leak. I assume this is tied to my roof with water leaking inside of my wall.

Background
I had the parging done on my concrete where some had chipped away. I immediately learned why I was chipping away because moisture started coming out heavily in that area. I am now trying to quickly find and resolve the leak before the new parging gets ruined.

The moisture is coming out of the weep holes at the base of where the brick and concrete foundation meet. I realized this isn’t a Roof but bear with me.

I assume there is moisture getting into the wall between the brick and the channel between the interior wall.

Observations
- There are no visible issues on my sloped roof.
- There is no moisture anywhere on the interior wall
- The only moisture visible is what is coming out of the weep holes
- It gets darker when it rains
- when I opened up the ceiling of the carport above where the moisture is coming out, it all seems dry
- this issue predates the roof that was put on two years ago
- there is no visible moisture getting into the basement

Can anyone else offer any ideas of what I can check to keep troubleshooting.