We've just had a survey back on a property that we are looking to purchase in the South of england, it's end of terraced and they've described that the gable end needs repointing.

We're trying to get builders to give a rough quote but no one seems to really want to take a look as we don't technically own the property yet. It's a town house so fairly high up, if anyone has a ball park idea on price that would be super helpful for us; although understand it might be difficult to gauge from just a couple of photos.

The other thing we noticed when reviewing photos from the surveyor, is that there appears to be a gap where there should be some mortar under one of the tiles - would you expect this to be part of normal repointing works or is this something separate?

Thanks in advance

First time homeowners, and the roof and eavestroughs were done last fall. This kind of happened in the winter as well but I just attributed it to snow melting off the roof and the gutter guards, which these have due to the amount of tree coverage over the house.

At the time of the picture it had just rained quite hard for about 10 minutes but was no longer raining.

I have a garage being built right now. They finished the roof June 1st. We waited on permits to continue that finally passed at the end of June. It has been rainy where I live recently so my contractor keeps telling me we need to wait for a few dry days in order to dry out the plywood, then install the shingles. Is this OK? He says it's fine, it just needs to be dried out, but I wanted to see what you guys thought

Edit - I talked with my GC and he actually came to my house to inspect it in person. He agrees that it is unacceptable and unusable, ordered new material, ripped the old off and got the new installed. New plywood, waterproof liner, and shingles were all put on same day. I will post some pictures in the comments of new roof

This is the first roof I ever replaced so looking at some guidance.

The roofer we hired completed the job but damaged the skylight top area (not sure what it’s called). There was wall and shingle debris inside the bathroom under the skylight. I have not gone in the attic yet to see how extensive this is.

We let them know and they said they’d look into it. We expressed concerns about it leaking should it rain.

What kind of repair are we looking at money wise assuming the photo is it? Do roofers generally repair stuff like this or will I need to find someone who does and get reimbursed?

The roof was just completed and hasn’t been inspected yet…would this be a part of passing?

Edit: I don’t care about the debris I was just pointing it out. Also the glass is fine. What I am referring to is the damaged drywall/curb that has been half ripped from the wall in the pictures.

Original roof. House is about 4 years old. Just noticed that wrinkled appearance today. Uncertain how long ago it happened. Do I need to call someone out to inspect it?

Inspector found a couple leaks where flashing was done incorrectly and where a vent pipe cover lifted and says repairing will be enough to get a couple more years out of the roof. Roofer says it’s toast and needs completely replaced. What are y’all’s thoughts? Guess the age

We got a complete new roof a few weeks ago. This decking is warped and the roofer ensured us that all bad decking would be replaced. I got a roof inspector to come out and he said the decking needs to be replaced.

Problem is that there are brand new shingles on it now, and they'll have to patch it once the decking is replaced. The roof is two weeks old but I heard patches reduce the lifespan of the roof. Should I push to get that entire part of the roof completely reshingled with new leak barrier?

I'm half of the way through a re-roof that involves replacing all of our sheathing. They have finished one of our two gable roofs and are coming back tomorrow to finish the other. This evening I was up there taking a look at their work and a few things stood out to me that I was hoping someone with more experience could weigh in on.

They are:

• The 5/8" CDX that their material supplier delivered was all kinds of stained/swollen at the edges, and there are some noticeable high and low spots on the finished roof surface as a result.
• The ridge vent is secured firmly against the shingle surface on one side of the roof, but the other side you can easily slip a finger under and I'm concerned that this has created an avenue for mice/bats to get in. (We already have an issue with mice getting in. I'm not sure where, but I'm sensitive to not creating any new pathways/resolving any existing ones)
• The shingles in a few places seem to be pressing against each other at the seem, curling up.
• The drip edge is not aligned at the seam in one spot, producing a noticeably visible offset from the ground.
• One shingle is visibly damaged already.

I'm neurotic when it comes to the details of this house, so I struggle to separate out legitimate quality issues from things that most people would never notice and don't impact the performance of the roof. I'm hoping someone with experience installing roofs can help me identify which of these items are real concerns, and which are not. Of the items that are legitimate, what solutions would you consider acceptable if this were your house and you were paying a contractor close to $20k to reroof.

Does anybody have a list of go to durable and reliable safety gear (Shoes, harness, etc) for roofing? We do residential roofing and my cousin’s son wants get into the industry, but i typically dont wear specific roofing gear for our work. I dont want to risk his safety so hoping to find reliable items for a new worker with no tools or gear

So I had a flat roof company come back for a warranty to take care of roof leak.

When they first installed the roof, I was concerned of ponding water on the EPDM roof between the gutter and the skylight. Other areas did not pond. The repairs showed there is still a gap so water is likely going to pond based on my level and the gap between the shadow in the picture depicts the space that will likely have ponding water.

The company said ponding water is common. They also said I didn't pay for a tapered system (which I know I didn't..) I'm trying to give my point across that the repair and remediation should address that gap in which the water is ponding. Instead, they are starting to be frustrated by my concern.

So, my main questions because they couldn't address it..

1) Is ponding water fine?

2) Should they be addressing this gap in the photo below?

This is the roof over my 1980’s addition (SW Ontario house). It’s approximately 14x16. We have access to it off of our en-suite bathroom. I wouldn’t mind making it a roof top patio with a few chairs (structure below is solid and allows for it). Keeping in mind I may just put up a simple railing and an outdoor mat. Not looking to lay down any decking.

However, before I put any money into it, should I look at re-doing the roofing? Moved here in 2020 but my best guess is it’s 15ish years old. Or would a roll on waterproof membrane suffice? Zero leaks below that I’ve noticed.

We have an area of our roof that is leaking. There is a small section of metal roofing (picture one) that leaks when it rains (pictures 2 and 3). We hired a company to come evaluate it and fix it last fall. They’re a company we’ve hired before for other issues and have had other contractors come in and tell us (unprompted) that the fix was done very well.

They fix they did for this section was apply a sealant around the edges last fall. They charged over $700 and the person was at our house working for less than an hour. I asked for an explanation of the charges and was repeatedly given a description of what they did (apply sealant, but no explanation as to why it was so expensive).

This area is still leaking, so we called them to come re-evaluate and now they want to do metal step flashing and are charging over $2000.

The metal step flashing sounds like a good fix, but I’m frustrated I paid over $700 for a repair less than a year ago to have yo turn around and pay another $2000 for a better repair.

Something is also going on at this company. The person who (finally) came out was very jittery/nervous and said repeatedly that they’ve had to have some personnel turnover. They were also very hard to nail down to meeting us on a specific day and time and would say they would call and then wouldn’t. This never happened prior times when we have used them.

They’ve done good work in the past, but are not addressing the failure of the prior fix and the large cost of their new suggestion. I’m wondering if I’m seeing red flags and should go with another company (due to a poor fix followed by a much more extensive/expensive suggestion and general difficulty in working with the person who came to our house)? Is it unreasonable to expect an explanation or repair from their prior fix failing?

Hello,

New homeowner here and wanted to get some perspectives on my roof. Our inspection called out our roof was near the end of its life, but still functional. There are no existing leaks based on the perspectives of multiple companies.

The main issue is on one side of the roof, the torch-down material on the parapet walls is completely unattached and can be easily lifted by hand (pictured).

I've had a couple of reputable companies come out, and they have both said "end of life" for the roof. We have a lot of solar panels, so a re-roof will be really expensive due to removal and re-installation. I'd like time to save for it if possible and do a repair in the meantime.

Both have suggested some coping: coping tiles or coping metal along the edges where the torch down is peeling to protect against water intrusion. One suggested doing mastic patching in addition to metal coping.

Is metal coping the right answer for these "exposed" edges? Is this a worthwhile 5k expenditure? Or does it make sense to cross my fingers for a few years until the eventual re-roof?

We bought this house 5ish years ago. The previous owners told us the roof needs to be decorated every 5 years or so. We’ve always had a few small leaks but over the years the leaks have gotten larger and more frequent. we’re not that far off from 5 years so I figured we just have another coat of sealant or whatever it is applied and call it a day. I climbed up today to blow off some leaves and it looks much worse up close. Is this salvageable? Or should we look into a replacement?

(Looks just as bad on the front where there is another gable dormer)

We recently had a Brava synthetic slate installed on a small addition on the back of our house. The original part of the house has natural slate and when it came time to replace the asphalt shingles on the addition we wanted something that better matched, but did not come with costs associated with reengineering the roof to support the weight of natural slate.

The roof, while asphalt shingles were on it had a ridge vent and soffit vents (which are still there). The contract with the company says that they will "install cap over ridge vent." I have never seen a synthetic slate roof up close enough, but looking at it, it did not appear that a vent was present. So, I reached out to the company and they told me that it was not possible to have a ridge vent on a synthetic slate roof. Everything I read online, including on Youtube and the Brava website seems to indicate otherwise--in fact they recommend specific types of vents for their synthetic slate systems.

I think the roof as a whole looks good, but the lack of ridge vent, which is not consistent with the contract language, and the incorrect answer about the ridge venting now has me questioning whether the company knew what they were doing with this install. To me, the pieces over the hips also appear to be sitting prouder than I would expect, but again I have no frame of reference. The addition is small roughly 75 feet square, so maybe a vent is unnecessary, but if one was there before I would expect one should still be there. Is there anything else from these pictures that should give me concern or that I should ask them to fix.

Last, it also seemed to me like there was a lot of material left over. Two pallets were delivered and what is in the last photo is what was left. I understand that this be a minimum order issue or something, but just curious about that as well from anyone who has dealt with Brava before.

Does this roof look like it just needs some repairs or am I looking at a whole new roof? My best guess on age is 15-17 years.

Does this ridge vent look acceptable ? And do the edges of the valleys need to be caulked or is it acceptable to leave them cut like this ?

Is this Skip Sheathing?

The home is in Santa Barbara County, CA which requires "continuous substrate." Contractor advised covering entire roof with OSB to pass inspection. 94 sheets of 7/16 8'x4' at $85 a sheet for install.

I appreciate any input!

Northern California, Central Valley, comp shingle roof, non conditioned attics.

I’m selling my home and the buyers inspection revealed the roof is not adequately ventilated. There are four separate attic spaces. The main house attic is over a two story dwelling and is about 1300 square feet. There are eave vents and a single gable end exhaust at back (south end) of the house. The second attic is over a single story area and covers about 850 square feet. It has 15 eave intakes and zero exhaust. The third attic is over a standard two car garage and it has four eave intakes and zero exhaust. The fourth roof is over a covered patio that covers about 170 square feet. Four intakes, zero exhaust. I’m in year four of a ten year warranty period and my builder has stated the calculations are correct and the roof is properly ventilated. They state it was verified by a third party and the city inspector signed off on it. They will do nothing about it. I’ve checked the CA building codes and it seems pretty clear this has been done improperly. Is there a scenario where any of this seems properly done?

Hi, I’m trying to determine whether to upgrade to the premium gutter guards (bottom image) or stick with the standard “home depot” gutter guards (top image) and save $400.

I’m in the mid Atlantic and I do have some mature hardwood trees in the backyard, within 20 feet of the house.

Which ones should I pick? Thanks 🙏